this one is an exhaust made for a 196 Honda clone it doesn't fit the mini diesels by default it has to be modified. the exhaust stud spacing on the diesel engine is closer together and uses a differently shaped port. so I enlarged the holes with a Dremmel and also reshaped the ports for proper flow. helpful hit if you need to bend the exhaust pipe and you don't have a dedicated pipe bender, go to your local hardware store and buy some play sand, fill the pipe all the way with play sand so you know how much you need, and then put that play sand in the oven at as high as your oven will go. once you have baked the sand so to say and it is nice and hot pour it in the exhaust pipe and that along with a heat gun/ torch will allow you to bend the exhaust without it kinking and restricting the flow. make sure to wear the proper protective equipment and be careful around hot equipment
while this is just masking tape currently. I do plan to have a proper wrap of this done when I get the car back together. I like this style a lot and it is an interesting piece of history if you read into dazzle camouflage
alright, im writing a pinned comment so I don't have to clarify to people individually saying cutting a hole in the hood will make things worse, no it will not. I can not speak for every car platform but currently, as the car(a 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT) sits the placement of the radiator front compartment and hood at speed positive pressure is generated both behind the radiator and on the underside of the hood causing a diminished cooling effect and aerodynamic lift because of the pressure differential. this is a well-known problem with the Fiero platform,. this pressure differential can be so great at relatively modest highway speeds approx 65mph the headlight doors will be forced open on occasion to allow excess pressure to escape from this space. the only other route for air that passes through the cooling stack( radiator oil cooler AC condenser) is to go under the car also creating lift via a pressure differential as the air that is going under the car is not being accelerated so there is a higher pressure zone being created underneath. and also turbulence is being induced which most certainly does not help supercritical flow and all that. not to mention the hard rigid carbon composite compartment that is angled forward in which air is deflected off downwards creating lift. adding a properly designed hood louver by a reputable company such as the one I show off in this video ru-vid.comF8kVXJX50TE?feature=share combined with an undertray and front lip splitter with a chamfered leading edge(2 items i am currently working on at the time of writing this) to both accelerate the oncoming air and to prevent excess air from going under the car is the go-to tried and true method for solving the issue of underhood pressure. As examples of cars that use this exact same printable I will direct you to the Porshe gt 2 3 and 4 rs models. Lamborghini Aventador, the Mustang S650 and GTD, the Dodge Viper Ford GT40 and GT both first and second generation. and even the third-generation Pontiac Firebird trans am of the same generation and model year as my Fiero shown here. the third generation Firebird trans am also just so happens to be the most aerodynamic car General Motors has ever built. this facet of aerodynamics has been well-understood for decades
how is a car that takes shots at the Corvette and more high class European cars like the 911 for a fraction of the cost lame? just shows you don't know your automotive history very well
I’m about to cut into my hood as well and came across this other video that’s interesting- looks like flow over the hood was negatively effected ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PfddrYNYoK8.htmlsi=SX0en7UX0JT3SrfX
You mean the Rubik's cube you have to disassemble before you Cirque du Solei into the motor just to find out your hands are too big to reach the final inch?
modern diesels are significantly easier 💀the 6.5TA is not that annoying but when its squeezed into the tiny engine bay of the h1 its kind of a pain. most modern diesel trucks are designed to have the cab be easily removed for bigger repairs like injectors rockers EGR systems etc. worked in construction for a long time and i have a bit of experience working on just about everything, 2 stroke detroits, international motors, cats, cummins, off highway stuff mostly
you are right, Mine is a Cavilan-built hummer, not an ex-humvee. but I forget who makes them but there is a company, probably several companies, that make kits to add AC to ex hmmwv's I've seen them at car shows
wimpy motor sure big daddy GM didn't want anything to outshine the corvette, That's why this one is getting an ls4 swap so stay tuned👀 but the Fiero does have a frame. it has a space steal frame that the urethane and carbon composite body panels snap or bolt into. it was one of the first mass-produced cars to use this construction method. this method of construction is used by nearly all cars built today for weight savings and ease of replacement of damaged body panels. that space steal frame is also part of the reason why the Fiero is the only American car to my knowledge to have a 5-star crash safety rating without airbags
@@BlakeH-mx5mm if you want to call nearly half a million units sold over 6 years a flop be my guest. that's more units sold than the first gen nsx and all gens of the MR2 combined while only being sold in the USA but ok bud.
so my h1 is not an ex-military truck 💀mine a civilian-built one. but there is a lot of weird stuff that needs to be fixed with these trucks military or civilian. for the biggest hummer-specific thing. blow the radiators out really good, the 45-degree angled cooling stack catches and holds a lot of debris like falling leaves and whatnot. also, helpful hint, when you go to an auto parts store do a vehicle search for a mid-90s GMC 3500 truck, idk what it is but if you search up an am general hummer in the auto parts store database a lot of parts that should fit don't come up.
not at all the intended use of the louvers placed that far forward to allow air that passes through the cooling stack to vent out the top of the hood instead of going back underneath the car and creating aerodynamic lift the next video i uploaded in my little series is a video explanation of this here ru-vid.comOMTLbhAuUmA?si=FdQiolNa4V-2h9Uq
Comprei uma aqui no Brasil e no primeiro jogo quebrou e não engatilhava mais mandei na loja que consertou e me enviou consertada então fui testar em casa e quebrou novamente agora não para aberta quando acaba as BBS.Não recomendo quebra fácil muito fraca.
I noticed you have a Google plus account. Why are you never on? You could get a lot more views and subs by uploading videos to my airsoft RU-vidrs community.
PolarBearPaintball&Airsoft that is the run cams fault because the mic is small working on using the audio from my gopro but I wasent wearing it this game
If u do decide to paint it which I would recommend against a little extra time practicing and preping goes a long way . Also watching some video on how to paint effectively might not be a bad idea . U can get good results with a rattle can but u have to know what your doing and take your time . This channel helped me out a lot ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qB_MtpaMYaY.html
The 189th it's fine though. I just repainted my sniper and pistol and I have plans to make a custom leaf suit. You can't shoot me if you can't see me lol
Ok in your video description you say that you and a sniper end up demolishing us. I shot the sniper near the beginning of the game. Probably around the middle of your video. So basically you demolished us by yourself lol
