cant even lie .. this has been the most informative video that i have seen and just the little that you explained was enough to give me way more understanding of some other important things that i should be paying attention to when it comes to the micro drifting hobby. thanks and keep making content like this
Are there grippier drift tire options in 1/24 like the old school hard rubbers for 1/10, or is all 1/24 drifting relegated to rear motor, 60 to 70% rear weight bias, ultra-low-grip setups?
this was a really helpful video .. one thing that i can say is that when i started this hobby i was already into rc.. but i have never done this much research for the cars and bashers that i had.. i did look things up but not anywhere near as much as i have with the drift hobby and particularly with the 24 scale ones .. sheesh .. though it can be expensive it seems like there are more physics involved and that is my thing ya know . . so countless of hours of fun but this video has helped me understand more what i should be looking for istead of the blind purchasing and searching. Thanks for the quality content and keep em coming my guy ..
Aweosme video I don’t have this chassis but I’m struggling to get the front hubs to clear the lower arm is this just a case of shorting the front arms so the car should sit lower ? Which then should allow hubs to clear arms … sorry I’m fairly new to rc drift
I know this is a old video but I have XRX dpa and my back lower arms have abit of movement is that good,if not what size shims do I need or I will have to drill the bottom plate to move the toe block forward. Thank you love your car
A little play should be ok. I'm not running any shims on the rear arms. But you can pick up a miniz shim kit that has all the sizes you would need, if you do need to shim it.
Yes I agree they use allot of shims. I believe some of the reason is for those small adjustments needed while tuning. Being able to shim a arm forward or backwards can make a huge difference in driving.
what exact motor were you using that allows it to roll? I’m using the hobby wing mini 28 in the 5000 KV motor. The brakes lock up when you let go of the throttle. Bummer.
Using a 2s 300mah, I'm getting 30-45mins of nonstop laps. But that will vary depending on the size/amperage of the esc, and the kv of the motor being used. I'm using a 3500kv motor and a low amperage esc. I belive it's around 8-10amp.
You should be able to purchase a replacement or an upgrade differential for all the popular chassis on the market. I'm not familiar with the mini-d chassis. If you ment to type mini-z chassis, then yes there are many options to upgrade the differential.
I’m building a da3 chassis right now; it’s my first 1/24 drift build; what kind of wheels do you use on these things. The fronts on the s13 look like Aoshima longchamps I have lying around for model kits
Awesome. That's a great chassis to get started with 🤘 the wheels they run are the mini-z awd type wheels. The rwd type have a different hub and do not bolt up. I'm running the kyosho te37 from route66 on the front and back. The offset and if they are wide or thin will depend on the setup your running ect. Some of the Chinese wheels are 20mm and 22mm. I prefer the 20mm as they are more scale looking. For tires i would use dsracing. Check out rcsupremacy.com they have a great selection of wheels and tires.
Your welcome. I'm glad to see more of us 10th scale guys getting into the 24th scale chassis. The potential is definitely there in the little chassis and electronics now to get some good tandems and consistency
Thanks, nobody mentions this step in setting up the xrx. Had mine for about 8 months been messing with endpoint trims and dual rates never solving my issue. 5mins later I'm drifting like I know what I'm doing! Thanks!!
That's awesome, glad your enjoying the car 🤘 i think the gyro calibration is one of the most important things to setup for rc drifting. I do it every time I adjust the steering, camber, toe, etc.
Thank you 🤘. The body is a 1/24 fugimi 180sx with the eternity hobby shop bnsports widebody kit. I belive this one is 110mm as well. You should be good.
i cant get the front steering linkage right i cant get the threaded piece into the plastic i bolt thing its like the threaded metal thing is to big ? did you have to like hand drill it out or did yours just fit?
Sorry to hear you having some difficulties. You shouldn't have to drill out anything for the steering besides the white servo arm that bolts to the servo. You may need to make those holes slightly larger to accommodate the ball screw. There are different size ball end links for different applications on the model. You may be using the wrong ball end or ball size in that location.
I run a company called bias because they offer 3 power plugs which gives me options to power lights ect. I run a 200-400mah 2s depending on the body that I'm using.
That's a front body mount from a kyosho mini-z. They are available most places online and come with most mini-z bodies. Luckily they bolt right onto the DPA chassis.
400 bucks is so much but i want so baddddddddddddddddd. does this have a lot of customization options? Amazon or any aftermarket stuff? I'm coming from Axial scx24 crawler stuff so I'm not sure about this. what's yalls recommendations? I'm looking at 4wd drift minis on amazon?
Yes. The xrx dpa chassis has a bunch of upgrade parts available at rcsupremacy.com pretty much every part is upgradeable and tunable. They are allot of fun.
If you have to use a lot of subtrim you could alternatively turn the car on with no subtrim, let the servo center itself and then unscrew it from the steering rack. Then manually center the wheels rack without moving the servo and connect it again. Worth it if you can acess all the screws without to much disassembly.
That's typically how you would do it with a larger servo and car. The servo arm splines are not fine enough on the smaller servo to get it centered that way. Unless you were to use a clamp style servo arm.
@@driftinginscale1837 yeah you are right, did it on my DA2.5 which uses a different steering system. There is also a programming card/ adapter for the acls servo. Thats how i centered it on my GLD.
It sould be possible to aet up your steering mechanicly on the car by adjusting the length of the parts in the steering. Sure, thats more work but a well set up car is the best base to get a clean running rig!
Love the video brother, I have a question for you! Can you go in deep on the types of bodies you can fit on that platform? I’m new on the hobby and that’s why I’m asking and reaching out for help, thank you
