Tape on the barrel isn’t needed, it will friction fit just fine. If not then regular tape can be used to replace the specialist part. The 3d printed dart guider is very annoying and breaks in storage. I have had some success with drilling holes in the shell and threading a paper clip in which the magazine deforms into the correct shape.
The air brake gasket on top of the hex standoff at the end of the blaster broke on mine. I replaced it just with some fabric as a brake instead, but do you know why it broke?
Great job Parry! (Hope I got your name right) This was a very helpful overview. What is the stock FPS? Is it low enough for HvZ or can it be modded to hit that 120 mark?
Around 160fps to 180fps dependant on region also if you want to change spring it accepts gel ball blaster springs very well due to its nature of having a gel ball blaster based origins
We have not tested every spring we can, However, our Nexus Pro X springs fit when cut down to length. A 1.4 or 1.6 spring and a SCAR might get you to 120 FPS cap
@lukegoodman5877, you've mentioned that the nexus pro x springs fit, but are there any other compatible springs on your shop? Maybe the Max Stryker or Seagull springs?
I got a unicorn very recently, but it seems as though the screw port for the top rail that’s built into the blaster (not the piece that you snap into place) is too small for the screws that came with it. Am I missing something, using the wrong screws, or is it a blaster error?
Got my Harrier up to 295fps with the standard 368mm barrel and the 1.6x300 spring, including the sabre internals. But recommend the 450mm barrel as it is much more consistent, way less fps deviation.
I have a question: Previously I had a worker swift which I stored and barely used. I kept the weaker spring in. The plastic deteriorated over time causing cracks which completely destroyed the blaster. Since then I've been wary of increasing any springloads in my blasters including the worker harrier. In your experience, has the Harrier met any structural integrity issues?
Is there a stronger spring i could use in my harrier? I already have the 1.6x300 and metal upgrades with an average of 300fps but wouldnt mind pushing it to the max but seems like no one has really gone farther than that.
Luke in your opinion what is the optimum time for an air seal? I find myself chasing at least 3-5 seconds by 3d printing new plungers until I reach it but I am curious if it's overkill
My tips/experience: * I taped several wraps of teflon to the stock rod to prevent it from collapsing, which is a common issue especially after a few weeks of use and abuse. - This also removes the ability to collapse it in to minimize it, but I find that I never use the in between position and if I wanna minimize it for storage I just take the stock off completely. * Do not attach a sling to the stock or hold the blaster by the stock. This wears out the notches (both ways). I was holding my blaster by the stock facing downwards and the stock slipped + blaster fell down barrel first and dented my floor. * Make sure to mark the front of the little priming block that the pump grip picatinny rails attach to (I personally used a silver sharpie). This makes it easier reassemble since you don’t have to test which way is correct (the screws will not attach the lower pic rail if the priming block isn’t in the right direction). * The black nylon/plastic internals tend to leave a black stain on anything they touch (o rings, mags, darts, etc) Regarding upgrade parts: * For whatever reason, the upgrade metal plunger doesn’t allow for slam fire IME. * If you are using the threaded barrel adapter and the upgrade metal pusher make sure to push back the pusher when switching barrels, elsewise when removing the threaded barrel it might take out the metal pusher with it. You’d have to go thru the hassle of opening your blaster to thread back on the metal pusher if this happens. This will also wear down your metal pusher o rings and threads - Unlike the default black nylon internal pusher and rambase being 1 piece, The metal pusher is separate and threaded well into the rambase but can still slip out with enough force (IE if pulled out along with the threaded barrel) * IME the thick black o rings that come with the metal upgrade kit are the best, followed by the upgrade green o rings and then the default o rings. * The upgrade 1.7 and 1.8 springs are slightly longer than the default spring, so don’t store the blaster with them in to avoid compression and wearing down the upgrade springs. The 2.0 spring is the same length as the default spring though.
These types of springer maintenance videos are really great! I've been needing to open up my Trion and clean it and this is nice to have as a reference for what to check and clean
I had sicking problems with all 4 of my seagulls but no big deal i'm a modder and just upgraded the trigger spring had an added bonus of really crisping up the trigger pull with the stiffer spring
Hey Luke, what's the size of the opening at the front of the barrel shroud (where the barrel exits the blaster). I've read that the 30mm Worker BCAR can fit comfortably in that housing and be slightly recessed in that opening, can you please confirm.
Which battery is this? I got one from the family reunion discoubt way back, would love to replace that oversized battery for one I can actually fit an alarm on
A very nice product. Purchased one for my swift. Put a bit of electrical tape on it to help it fit. It was a bit of a pain, but man it's absolutely beautiful. 8° seems to be a sweet spot for a variety of FPS ranges as well.
