My channel focuses on the things that interest me. Primarily Modifying engines in general with a focus on Miatas. Also firearms of all types and modifying them as well. If I feel the need to share information that will help others with similar interests improve something or something that they are having difficulty with, I will help.
@@Rumnhammer Hey thanks for responding, they recommend 8 however I can not find a buffer that fits my pdw set up. I can only find extended 8oz which will not allow me to charge my new frontier upper due to the size of the buffer
I'm curious to know how confident you feel working on this car yourself, i saw your last Mazda 3 had you swap an engine in the drive way, do you think you could do that level of work on this new generation.
Sure I could, the mechanics of cars are basically all the same, and I have 40 years of automotive experience. Since I made this video over the course of the last year I have already modified the car as far as lowering springs, 80mm exhaust and rear Carbon fiber spoiler. I have an intake for it as well that I got last Febuary but all my time was taken up this spring putting ITBs on my sons Miata.
I do definitely want to do some power mods on my car like maybe porting the heads and probably larger cams but how would you hook in the AICV? where would that go or sit? (NA8)
Your cylinder is glazed and discolored BAD. The "glazed" is that very shiny, almost mirror polished clear coat look to the entire cylinder, and the golden brown discoloration -- both of these things are signs of SEVERE overheating and or bad oiling. I think you were correct on the timing being way too advanced + way too much oil as the cause, but just wanted to point out for future diagnostics that those two things (glazed and discolored cylinder) tell a story of their own.
Thanks for the Video. What i still dont understand, havent had anything to do with Itbs is: How did u do the Vacuum balancing? Because normally you would have 2 vacuum balance blocks: One for the MAP Signal, and one for the Idle Control bypass. How did you do the Bypass?
You only need one vacuume block, without ITBs both the MAP and the IAC valve get their signal from the intake plenum. The IAC valve just bleeds air into the block which has 4 lines going to the intake manifold behind the throttle bodies.
There is some really, really good info in this vid for sure not going to lie, but this line soured it a bit for me ..."If you want you car to start and drive as normal, don't get ITBs" ... cmon man its not that bad surely? Slightly hyperbole or maybe scaring people off to gatekeep the itb cool factor maybe? Its not that hard, and its not that painful. I have the old hummelink 4age kit and it was an absolute breeze to fit and drives mostly like a normal car, starts on the key everytime. A lot of thought went into that kit and Nils did an excellent job of it. Okay no coolant re-route here (not needed) so that helped fitting a bit, but never once thought about yeeting the kit out of the window. I've been working on cars on and off for a few years but nothing serious, and had no experience with ITBs, tuning or major engine work and its really not that bad. Re-loomed most of the original wiring, made my own mini loom for major sensors inc TPS and learnt VE tuning from a number of books and so far, so good🤞🏻. I don't consider myself a genius or a wizard tuner, a moderately intelligent person maybe but even then thats a stretch 😂.
Trust me, this would have been far easier without a coolant reroute, which is why I was so insistant on making it clear. I didn't have any real running issues with the 4age kit and I agree that Nils makes a great product which is why I got his current kit. Having installed both kits I can tell you that the new kit is far easier, primarly from the extra room you have underneth it. I may have sounded a bit hyperbolic but that is for a reason, I do my videos to help people with problems that I have run into when I do things like this kit, sorting out guns etc I have a ton of experience (40+ years at this point) and when I find something that I have to sort out and find an easier solution to get it done, I'm assuming that others will run into this same thing an most likey they don't have the experience to find a solution for it. I always have to assume that you are teaching to the person that has the least amount of experience if that makes sense. Right now the car is starting and running just fine, without an IAC valve since it is summer and warm idle doesn't take long, I intend to incorporate an IAC valve and retune to allow for that in the fall. What I want people to know going in is that the car will not start and run as easy as their car will stock, especially if they put this on in the winter and don't have an IAC valve and the tuning squared away. Believe me I don't like when people gatekeep, I'm just assuming that people don't have any experience and don't want them to get in over their heads and then be frustrated. Better to give plenty of forwarning then to have people put in a situation where they need to end of paying someone to finish a job. I had other issues with the initial install that I didn't list, like having to make the new throttle cable bracket, and having the rod hitting the oil pressure sender, not removing the alternator on the first install etc. My goal in a nutshell was not to scare people away, but to let them know what to expect.
@@Rumnhammer That makes sense, I understand the idea of speaking also to lowest common denominator when it comes to this stuff but I certainly wouldn't want to put people off, I remember the thread on club roadster (great 4age itb resource) and having a large group solving each others issues is fantastic to see. I'm definitely more of a dive right in type person but I also have a lot of patience for these things, and don't have or give myself time constraints which I think is very important. I think theres certainly more faff when it comes to the NA8/NB engine compared to the NA6 though as it really wasn't that bad. Personally I tend to advise against the coolant reroute, I'm not convinced it really makes that much difference compared to uprating the rad and refreshing everything with new parts and hoses. The sensor that feeds the dash gauge/ecu is in the back of the head and you can take a feed of the front rad hose and a seperate gauge if needed, dial in the engine protection/trims you need in the ecu (link is amazing for this) and keep your eye on the temps should be fine unless you live in a desert type climate (I understand we are kinda lucky not to get the crazy temps you guys often get).
Hi there! first I'd like to say your comment is inspiring for me since I've been researching how to install my ITBs and how to tune for a long while now which is the older Hummelink kit probably like yours and it has always seemed a bit complicated to me so your words give me a bit more confidence. I'm mainly waiting until I can finish my BP4W head that I intend on swapping onto my 95 NA bottom end and I have to save up for the valves, springs, guides, etc. Luckily I'm an engine machinist so the machine work is free. 😂 Anyway to get to the point. What books specifically do you recommend to help me along? Thanks!
@@LukaLukaaa Not too sure what books I could recommend, I have 40 years experience working on cars that helped with my install. Given that, as long as you don't have a coolant reroute and since you are going to have a BP4W head you probably won't have some of the fitment issues that I had. I can say that the reason I make RU-vid videos is to help people over the rough parts that I had so you don't have to deal with them. I can't recommend any books per se, but if you have any questions at all do not hesitate to ask me. Having installed both Hummelink kits, I feel qualified to guide you. In fact if you friend me on Facebook you can direct message me. Good luck on your install, and check out my other Hummelink review video where I go over both kits and outline some of the difficultys I had with the early kit.
The reason you’re plug doesn’t click in is cause you’re missing the outer plastic housing. It’s held in with the same screws as the board is held in. Thank you very much for the fix it worked on mine.
Thanks! Several features revealed that I did not kjow about. Interesting fill in: some dealers are right now flipping "loaners" with low miles and CPO warranties. Just got a 2023 CPO Mazda 3 Turbo Premium Plus OTD for $30,500, TTL and all. 1865 odometer miles at delivery.
Ebay sells a cast aluminum cosworth replica NA Intake Manifold without the butterflies I've been saving up for this I want to get it then port and polish it before installing I have a 2.3 mazda 5 minivan manual
You sure got them politicians with that serial Ha hik. Not, you just look juvenile and immature. You shouldn't have a sharp stick let alone a gun. I hope you get red flagged.
it sucks not having Radio Shack. Very helpful info here. The Corksport rear engine mount made the manual shifting silky smooth and gave it a little growl. I have 155K miles and now the power is really bad. Going uphills or trying to accelerate is slower. I thought maybe its the fuel pump or fuel filter, but O2 sensors haven't been touched. So i;'ll do that first. As well as clean throttle body today, and MAF sensor clean. I have a knock when i accelerate. I think its an engine mount. Mechanic needs to check out the suspension. Out of my pay grade. I had the clutch replaced a couple years ago and a hydraulic line popped loose a couple months later. So maybe the guy didn't torque the mount tight enough either. At this point i just want to sell it in a few months. Its been decent. I wish it was faster but is what it is. The manual helps and cold air intake. Although you make the stock intake make sense.
Just read the stick in Horizontal position as soon as you pull the stick. Like reading a bathtub with thick oil coming from the back of the tub. This oil is very viscous..Lite..that's why the skickbis engineered with a horizontal bathtub. Pull the stick and read it in a horizontal state and the light weight oil will settle based on the thickness... Read the stick horizontal and you will know where you are.
Correction: the stick is engineered with a small lip at the bottom of the stick. This lip is meant to hold the light weight oil long enough to pull the stick, lay it Horizontal and gain àn accurate reading. The surface tention of the oil will settle and then Cease movement of the oil on the stick.
What do you do if your dipstick breaks off? lol I’ve seen videos about drilling into the visible end, however, this is Mazda and the entry point for the dipstick in in the middle of the engine and I’m afraid of losing bits of dipstick inside the engine. So if there’s any other advice, then I’m removing the the top of the engine to get the stick out
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I wonder if you would be so kind as to send me a parts list I have been trying to find that type of fire arm for awhile now got prices from on a complete gun they range form 800.00 to 200 way tp munch for my budget THANKS
Thanks man. Just bought an 07 3s. Didn’t act on test drive. Started on the way home half hour after transaction. But your video saved me $250. And it took less time that an oil change
My mate did this for his 2.0 2006 mazda 3 the other day and got a nice surprise by the performance boost that he got. And my other mate who is a mechanic did the same thing to a mazda 3 that he had and he said that he never had a problem for aslong as you stick to a higher octane fuel. My mate who did this the other day said the his car experiences less delay and lag on both throttle response and gear shifts on the auto transmission mission. Not sure what it would have to do with the gearbox shifting better but its certainly a more lively car than before and has more exhaust pops 😂 im thinking of doing the same with my mazda 3 as here in Australia the best fuel we have is 98 octane
