I think this system can be used to drive independent oil pump for rear mount turbocharger, or to drive independent water pump for air to water intercooler. Just an idea though.
For aluminum and other soft metals or plastic, I quit using straight flute taps a long time ago. The straight flute doesn't let the stringy chips leave, so they bunch up, jam the tap, and well, you're going to break something. I strongly suggest spiral flute taps, where the spiral flute guides the intact chip out of the hole, which prevents jamming/breaking of the tap. I just start the tap and go all the way in; no going back and forth. Once you try these, you will never, ever go back.
11 years ago, but it's just enough info to help find my direction. I've built an attachment for my excavator and want to create a separate hydraulic circuit for it. Taking flow from the existing pump slows everything down. I'll test out the power steer pump with a mag clutch so I can disengage it. Have you gone further with this? Cheers
I love my hand tapping machine, it's the same one you have. I've had problems with the little ball falling out. Since I tap mostly small holes I made a much shorter crank with only one handle.
Do you think it's possible to add a hydraulic hand throttle to control speed and direction? I'm thinking this to act as a clutch and a 1 speed gearbox+reverse for lawnmowers. If I'm right you can create a loop to redirect the fluid to the first pump. And when you redirect a percentage of that fluid out of the loop to the second pump you get traction... What do you think?
I hear you, but I don't really see it that way. When I bought the lathe 11 years ago, it was less than half the price of any comparable machine. Yes, it promptly blew a capacitor, but I paid just a couple dollars for a replacement. The machine is still running strong and accurate with frequent use across all these years. It was a genuine bargain for a quality machine (and a crappy capacitor).
*Perfect band saw for the hobby enthusiast **MyBest.Tools** Easy to set up and square. Had it running in 10 to 15 minutes. Quality of cuts will depend on the quality of the blades.*
Great idea. I love my hoist, but my 50 year old back don't like the workout folding and unfolding the legs. Great mod, I'm going to make a similar style but removable. Thanks for the idea.
I find it hard to believe that little machine shop would have anything half the price of anybody else! They’re usually so much more expensive than everybody else is for the same stuff!
Nice work 👍 I wish I could find a shop or someone can do something similar in my 69 corona coupe. Please Post more videos, are you planning to do an upgrade on the breaks?
Orange are you still around? If so Hit me up please. Doing a PT Cruiser and Im willing to pay to pick your brain. Great job you do w/this stuff, amazing
Relieved to find your channel. I have been toying with the idea of a Miata vs S2000 engine swap. Miata has proven to be more affordable. Unfortunately, I do not have your mechanical talent but you have explained things well. Please post an update to this video. Maybe showing the car in motion (acceleration, etc). Great job!!
Hello. I liked your review. I got my 8x12 in 2007. Still loving it to this day. It is heavy, rigid, and runs like a dream. I also have the HF 6x4 metal bandsaw and the HF round column mill/drill. These three tools have spoiled me for my diy projects and repairs.
How does braking feel on it especially with the extra ponies since its 4 wheel drum i had a guy make me some brackets so that i was able to convert a corona i had in 2016 to front disc brakes from first gen acura legend they have 11" rotors just had to upgrade to 15" wheels for clearance
I modified the stock Miata mount brackets so that they would bolt a few inches farther forward on the block, then I welded simple pads to the Corona front crossmember. The stock Miata rubber isolators sit between them. For the transmission, I notched the stock Corona cross bar and added a pad to it for bolting the transmission with old shock isolators as my rubber. I've added a link to the video description that shows photos of the modifications!
This startup is with a USDM NB1.8L ECU controlling a JDM NB1.6L engine. The question I never explored is whether the NB1.8L ECU will be able to run the NB1.6L well at higher RPM where it expects to be able to control intake runner length.
The wiring is very similar, except for the the 1.8L ECU has an additional 12V BAT input at position 1H and, of course, the VCIS trigger at 3Q. I did not see any difference between the coil packs on my engines. As the video shows, the NB1.8L ECU starts and idles the NB1.6L engine perfect. But, I do no know whether the NB1.8L ECU will be able to run the NB1.6L well at higher RPM where it expects to be able to control intake runner length.
At the start, there is movement from the tap self-centering in the work piece. The subsequent movement is from the fact that the piece is only loosely held so that self-centering can take place. So, even though the issue is not run out, you still cannot expect the threads to be precisely concentric with the original hole. That said, for most applications, it's plenty accurate.
It is a no-name radio from eBay. I really like it. One nice feature is that it does not have to be on / playing to answer calls. Just now, I used the following search on eBay to bring it up as the first listing: "car stereo receiver with bluetooth 4x60w car audio fm radio"
It requires light modification to the Miata harness (splicing the wires for the two coil packs into the input plug for the Igniter) and the bike coil harness (to space the coils properly and splice to the Igniter output plug). If you're comfortable with soldering wire, it's very easy. There is an outfit called Fab9 that sells a PnP version, but I saved $200 making it myself.
Too bad they've all rusted back to earth here in the Northeast... I had a '69 4 door with a two speed automatic. Good candidate for a swap, but it was 1975 ;)
