Just tightening the control arms was another place that would shift, after u had an alignment the torque suggested wasnt enough. U could try it before paying a shop, need a 1/2" impact though

After 8k miles mine started doing it very minor again. But was El Cheapo brake pads. At least I know where its coming from now and nothing critical cuz the looser it gets, louder it gets

Read my other comment

Yep. U only miss the little extra power on the road. Off pavement and trails the power is perfect, cant use anymore under 50mph or its just wheel spin. My DRZ with 40hp is a blast on the road, until 55mph then u wish u had a little more power too. I actually just tried the STP removal. Made zero impact on the road. On the trail, its definitely noticable in a good way.

Dunlop D605 4.10-18 and 3,00-21. They are great dual sport tires. Drop psi offroad and they work good

@@tieoneon1614 my stock tires are 17 ? Klx300 sm

@@angelomilano3167 then why are u asking me???

Sorry mine klx 300 sm has 17” wheels 2021

Almost everything is same on 300r. Just a 520 size chain, MX doesnt have the heavier/friction o-rings. U just need to oil and clean the MX chain more often. I have a KLR now and seriously thinking of just getting a cheap used 300r for a trail bike and using the KLR as my ADV/Dual sport

@@tieoneon1614 I don’t think the 300r has that secondary valve or whatever they call it. Also, if it has the charcoal canister still, #PLE-125 and PVE-026 from smart moto electronics will delete it and the pair valve. My bike runs much smoother after.

I fricken love it. Mad i didnt buy one in '22. Didnt want to do extended pavement riding on the KLX300, with this I dont want to stop riding on two lane roads. Just got back from 170 miles of forest roads/power lines, with psi lowered its honestly the most planted bike ever on fast dirt roads. Avoid mud if u can and zero problems offroad. After 800 miles the engine broke in fully, smoother and a little more high rpm pull. As far as vibration, The dampened footpegs work, and i dont feel any flex like people are whining about. Im starting to really do long pavement rides, and I do feel a little vibes in my hands if i sit at cruising speed for more than 1 hour but I just got a Throttle Lock and that has helped give the right hand a break. Vibes are a lot less than my KLX and DRZ. But I never liked riding long highway stretches even on my Road Glide. Im so damn impressed by this thing, its what I was looking for years ago when I was buying expensive ADV bikes. The suspension is super plush, trans and oem gearing is perfect with the torque it makes, controls and ride is super smooth, it might not be a sport bike but it aint slow and it wont stall. With the price and reliablility....if u are an experienced rider I think u would absolutely love this bike.

@@tieoneon1614 I appreciate your detailed reply! You may have just caused me to speed some money I didn't really need to spend? Ha Ha

@@Kawboy13 windscreen risers, and clutch bypass id get immediately. Better fueling, better wind protection and extreme bang for buck with those two.

Thank u. Just a got a KLR ADV and been doing the same. Got $80 spent on mod's and happy as hell just by adjusting preload and psi.

3 Phuck Up's in a row from RM, I will never use them again especially after telling me to pay more to change shipping, then shipped it wrong anyway. Eat Chit RMATVMC!

Incorrect. It had the beasty 13p 4 blade Spitfire. It was too heavy for this boat being in tiller configuration. The only way to correct over powered and over weight is to extend it out the back 12"

These come with yellow dots to put by the valve stem, no balancing and they are completely vibration free. No rimlocks needed, iv ran as low at 8 psi rear and never have gotten flat or spun on rim.

@@tieoneon1614 can you explain as I don’t understand. Yellow dots? Why no rim locks? I’ve ripped a few tubes when my tire pressure was in the low teens.

@@vlodpg 25hp to the rear wheel isnt enough to spin the tire on tube to rip the valve stem. On my DRZ, anything under 15psi would rip it cuz that was close to 40hp and that needed rimlocks to drop under 15psi. The 605 have yellow dots on new tires that help u balance the tire, meaning put valve stem here and tire will be balanced. And they are, its great.

Was Ebay custom boat windshield, search on there. Fella from Florida, makes just about every dimension

I forgot the H, will edit that cuz people probably search it that way. Its over $1600 more here for the 30 and for 2 mph faster that a 12p cheap prop would get me, the 25 suites me just fine as its getting faster as broken in.

@@tieoneon1614 I ordered a 25 hp first but delivery time was five months and 30 hp one month and cost $400 more so had to have it. Will get it in a few weeks and will have it on a Linder 445 Basic. New motor, new boat and I think it will be good after I saw your video. Thanks for the good review 👍

@@GripperCc Damn those are nice rigs, see a few you on RU-vid here but they are not in USA. They look like such well made but simplistic boats. The 30 I would like was $6300 before taxes/fee's, its on sale now at $6k but I got the 25 OTD for $4750 with Mercury's rebate in May {that didnt apply to the 30}. You are going to LOVE these motors man! Absolute joy to operate

Been some really good deals with Kawi! I just got a $1k rebate on a KLR too

Just snorkel. If u are doing a fuel tuner, the lid off provides most air and is suggested then.

Hey Bob. Its an awesome bike. Mayb consider the 300r if u are going to mainly woods ride unless u need the plate. I only did the jack up link to put more weight {less sag} on my front wheel, to use the OEM 605's on faster dirt roads. I see the price went up on the link, over $100 so maybe the rear spring would be more cost effective but this is also easier and less hassle to install. I didnt effect the suspension performance positive/negative but this wasnt a good mod to ride in softer terrain. Actually the oem clicker settings were best for slower rough woods riding, it was plush. I ran 1 click harder all around for 3rd/4th gear speed offroad. The engine is really grunty and smooth at very low rpm, its easy to sit in the woods all day in Second gear and it will still pull me up hill from idle no problem in second gear... which is extremeley impressive. My favorite part of bike is the smooth throttle and low end power. Its more responsive offroad with the secondary throttle plate out which starts the mid range rpm punch sooner. This was at 13/40 dual sport gearing also, 13/45 and 13/42 is popular for offroad focused riding. With the STP and air snorkel out, and MX chain the power off these 300's feel perfect offroad > any more power would be wheel spin at full throttle in the woods. On the road the power doesnt feel like much but its still fun to rip thru the gears. Iv had CRF450X and YZ250FX and they were fun to ride wide open at race pace, but got tiring if u were just exploring or riding moderately cuz of the stiffer suspension and on/off throttle.

Tilly2wheel has a decent video of tractering around in the woods in second gear. Its the 300R but same motor {with no STP} and 13/47 oem gearing.

@tieoneon1614 Thanks for all the advice. I am back and forth between this bike and the DRZ 400S. Just want to ride without the hassle of valve checks and oil changes so often. I would probably swap out springs, not that big of a deal. Without the snorkel, does the bike run lean and overheat? Also does the O2 sensor come on for check engine? Those are my last question, promise. 😉

@@Bobsadventures58 It doesnt run lean, i checked the spark plug after 1k miles of that. No o2 light. I had 2 DRZ's and 2 KLX last year. I was torn which one to keep also. Ultimately the DRZ felt like a ADV bike offroad, so top heavy and clumsy. But excelled everywhere else besides the f'd up trans ratio's. The KLX felt like my KDX offroad. But in more open faster terrain its not very fast. They ARE the 2 best dual sports available right now, hands down. DRZ for pavement and open terrain. KLX for woods.

Appreciate the detailed explanation. You leaning me towards the KLX. I loved riding my daughters klx140. Made tight trails feel bigger and longer. Would you recommend a spring swap for our size 220 lbs. if I want to be aggressive in woods? I saw Derek Dual Sport change his front and rear springs. Thats an easy job and not expensive.

It really is. I miss doing longer trips

Yes its the same seat. I put a Lust Racing Jack up Link in +1.4" that works great, also evens up the sag if u are heavier than 200lbs. Raises rear of bike a little over an inch. Im 6'2 and it feels good if u like enduro bike feel.

@@tieoneon1614 perfect thanks. Yeah I was looking to get some more peg to seat distance for my knees. Tried an aftermarket seat pad which got me the height but feels like you're flossing when sitting😆. I'm still thinking about the jack up link too although that Cogent rear spring Derek used looks pretty beefy!

Yeah, that would equal 14/40 on the oem Dual Sport model and I felt that is decent gearing for street use. U still aint gonna rev out 6th gear, at 13/40 its just under redline at 85mph. Sprockets are cheap and easy to switch/play with. If u havent pulled the snorkel and swapped to MX chain I recommend it.

@@tieoneon1614 thanks for the quick response! gonna buy the mx chain and sprocket next. Should i also replace the rear sprocket too? since i’m replacing the front sprocket and chain.

@@jojolobo773 Theres no need to. The best scenario I think is finding a gear ratio u like, and just swapping the 13 and 14t to suite what u are doing cuz u can use the same chain and its easier. If u swap the rear sprocket, u probably will need another chain length. Heads up the OEM chain doesnt have a master link so u have to cut it. However there is juuuust enough room to swap the front sprockets by leaving it on. And most MX chains stretch a lot first couple hundred miles, so u gotta re adjust and lube it often. Helps to keep the chain guard on too cuz otherwise it flings lube everywhere when riding lol.

The psi off-road is relative to speed u are riding. 15 psi is lowest that actually makes a difference, good for fast riding especially dirt roads. On road i run 20-22. Off-road is tricky cuz u could get a flat lower than 13 psi but i never have. U can experiment yourself lol.

@@tieoneon1614 thank you for the response. It’s not 20-22 front to back is it? It’s between 20-22 either front or back? Maybe both matching?

@@kayhanyegenoglu doesnt really matter that much. Get a gauge and pump and try it out for yourself. U can definitely feel the difference. The swingarm sticker on your bike tells u the standard psi front to back

@@tieoneon1614thank you 🙏🏼

If u want a SM bike there isnt much benefit of the KLX. The DRZ is better by a lot. The KLX is smaller if u are, more refined with 6th gear/ EFI. The dual sport KLX is better than the DRZ cuz it handles offroad WAY better, if u trail ride.

@@tieoneon1614 ok thanks so if it’s a Japanese SM DRZ is still the way to go, and I hear the bike is getting upgraded this year but I won’t hold my breath lol

@@StevieDee73 after the usual power mods to any DRZ its frickin powerful. On the road it'd be way more fun. I fixed up an old one last year and ALMOST made it my only bike. But for me trucking my bike to remote offroad areas the KLX is better all around

Doing it is the only way u learn what was worth it, and what was frivolous spending. I had fun when I was younger for sure! But I also buy/sell what ever bike fits my current riding desire at the time and it got expensive. Pulling the parts off and selling them seperately got me about half my $ back on aftermarket parts.

I mistakenly bought the Bridestone TW52 which looks just like the 605, just harder compound...but found out it was a super stiff carcass meant for 650cc bikes that haul weight. Something to look at if u are interested... and yes 18psi is low psi for ADV bikes.

It was odd that going down to the 10p prop I tried felt really gutless, compared to the 11p even with a passenger + gear. Even mine the 10p was rev'd out at limiter at 22mph also. Is your Polar Kraft the MV jon boat? 300lb dry weight?? If so you definitely should be able to pull a 12 or 13p. If your boat dry weight is 750lbs u probably need the 11p.

I think it would be the perfect tire!! Same tread just spaced out a bit further. I'v looked years ago, seems they are discontinued or not available in USA.

I didnt think about that. The 0.8" was definitely shorter, making sense in regards towards geometry . However this 1.4" was almost identical length to the oem link which confused me? Either way the oem clicker settings are plenty plush enough for me at slower trail speeds and I really like the predictable handling now and feel of the taller bike.

I sure the hell dont!

@@tieoneon1614 they had a really good power to weight ratio being a two-stroke they were really easy to work on after the mid-90s. You couldn't kill them things. No timing belt and valves and all that crap

@@libertyforamericanow Not sure why u are missing them? They are for sale everywhere for $1k cuz nobody wants them. Go buy 1.

Don’t forget to feed them new plugs after every 5th trip because they were so fouled it wouldn’t get on plane until it would detonate. That’s why no one wants them anymore. I will never go back to a merc 2 stroke. It was fast, but it would foul plugs like no motor I have ever seen.

@@Muskyfishn84 exactly. My previous 40, would flood if u blinked wrong and would be phucked for an hour if u didnt change plugs.

Yeah man, either springs or this link with the rebound in rear cranked up to hold u up, would do u good. Around 800-1000 miles these get another healthy power boost after fully broken in. Mine happened mid ride Thursday after taking a break, and I was confused as why the bike suddenly felt a lot more powerful especially 5k-9k rpm. With just a 13t sprocket, snorkel removed, and fully broken in they definitely feel 30 hp.

@@tieoneon1614 Yeah I've heard they pick up a few ponies when broken in. I'll probably do the 13 tooth sprocket also because I don't like the highway and really just want to ride the rocky jeep trails and back roads of the southeast Wyoming area

@@RichieB-s9l the 13 i think is perfect, also the fastest accelerating after i tried 4 sprocket combo's.

​@@tieoneon1614 ok so I just ordered the 0.8 jack up kit on Lust. I'll start with that and see how it feels. In case anyone wants to know they are $104 plus shipping now whether you get the 0.8 or the 1.4 kit. I'll report back!

@@RichieB-s9l damn...that went up in price!

I have a 1987 Mariner 30 horse. Ran it on a 16 ft Crestliner. Haven't run it in eight years. Built by Yamaha. Can anyone in the US cross reference Mariner and Yamaha? Need fuel pump, h2O pump and carb rebuild kits. Can't find Mariner parts!

Thanks, feels perfectly matched for this boat and what I do

I clean the chain a lot if Im riding offroad. Its not a great mod If u dont like to clean the chain. However I really like the gold shiny look matching the fork tubes so its routine for me after an offrode ride. Riding on street doesnt get the chain dirty. The stand and brush I got makes it easy. The "lean" topic is WAY over dramatized. The fan rarely kicks on meaning the engine isnt hot. Even at stop lights. I heard it kick on my last ride, cuz I was idling a lot putzing around in 1st gear in the woods. Dont let the bike idle for more than 3 minutes if u dont ever want the engine hot. If the fraction of "lean" on this bike "could" do any damage it would result in the piston only lasting 62,000 miles instead of 65,000.

@@tieoneon1614 thank you, this is my first motorcycle, I don't have a frame of reference. your videos are very helpful.

Oh yeah 13 would be way too high. I have an 11p on here and sounds/feels perfectly revved out. With 2 guys it wont rev all the way and hits 24mph so Im getting a 10p as a spare and to use if I got passengers. Id suggest a 10p for u. U can find the Solas ones cheap for under $70. 10 spine, Mercury 25-30hp 2006+ on Amazon if u search.

Im not against removing the STP, but its only helping from 4000-5500 rpm. The chain and snorkel out add it entire rpm range. With the snorkel out, the motor starts pulling harder at 5500 rpm instead of 7k like Best Dual Sports cuz he has his airbox closed up for sound. And with the 13t sprocket any kind of spirited riding the rpm's are always above 5500. IF u did ALL 3...then u would really be onto something. IF i got time to tinker I might try it. But seeing how many people screw it up by stripping it out I dont want to suggest it. Its up to you.

More like 4000 to 6500 , right in the range I'm at most of the time . 6500 is 65 mph I'm rarely above that. The STP doesn't fully open til around 7000 according to the dyno tests I've seen run .

@@danielgreen7159 The STP out would probably be good for 14/40 sprockets. However 13/40 with the STP in is still going to be faster no matter what and for my riding that sprocket set up is perfect.

If you keep the rpm way high most of the time it may not slow you down much ,but it'll never be faster with it in no matter what the situation. Dyno tests show that there is no time or situation where they actually make more power with it in ,only less. I'd really like to ask a kawasaki engineer that knows why it's there ,because from everything I've seen it accomplishes absolutely nothing positive as far as performance is concerned in any situation.

@@danielgreen7159 100% incorrect. You are just digging yourself deeper here trying to double down on your opinion. And dont need a damn engineer to tell u why that throttle plate is in there. Pay attention this time, Im not going argue facts. Lower gearing getting more torque off the line not only gets up and going faster, it gets u past the rpm where this would matter AT ALL. Period. If u were doing a 0-60mph pull you only be between 4-7k rpm for a split second in first gear, every gear after that is past 7k with the 13t sprocket in. Acceleration in every gear is faster cuz of the 7-8% more torque multiplied by 3 teeth bigger equivalent sprocket making shorter gear ratios > harder pull. Longer gearing like the 14/40 would see more benefit like I said cuz there a longer time/longer gear that is in that middle rpm range, again in every gear. Secondary throttle plates are used in a lot of carburetors also, to control vacuum pressure, making smooth throttle, and control a lean condition of too much air rushing in on the primary throttle opening. In wide open throttle such as dyno runs, it doesnt matter at all cuz max amount of fuel is applied also. Why Kawi programmed it open fully at 7k cuz at that rpm most people are wide open throttle. Ride your bike in very hot climate, or higher than 5k ft elevation and your bike wont have a lot of power at low rpm and small throttle openings with that STP out cuz now there is even less O2 availabe in the atmosphere. The 300R doesnt have a STP cuz its running a different ECU with no O2 sensor, running richer cuz it doesnt have to meet all strict EPA restrictions being a trail bike. So in conclusion here! I really like how smooth and grunty my bike is at low rpm tractor type woods riding, and with just a 13t it IT IS faster than a the OEM bike geared 14/40 with the STP out. U can keep yours out, I will keep mine in

Im really impressed. Glad I didnt spend another $1300 for the 30hp!

LOL glad u like it too. Sounds like someone with a big duck boat is coming for the 40hp I got for sale now. It would match that boat much better also.

I have a new set of Trakmasters and 45t i wanted to put on just for a trip to a really sandy area of UP MI, but know Im going to be too lazy to take them off after LOL. Exploring is more fun so will probably just keep the 605 on, slide my big arse to rear of seat and tough it out in the sand stretch.

Yea I get it, deep sand sucks without nobbies. The bent handlebars on my t dub can attest to that