Really excellent advice in this video. I've learned this the hard way by dumping thousands into bikes trying to make them something they're not. Part of the problem is I really enjoy all the tinkering, but you never get your money back out of that stuff. Great video!
I 100% agree with your comments on the bike. Old fart here and been through a lot like yourself. I really like the quietness of the bike..no one knows where I’m riding mostly. Other than ergonomics and protection, mine will remain in stock form. Thanks for sharing.
Thank u. When u dont rip anything up and nobody can hear u, they cant get upset cuz they never knew u were there. I think a lot of people are "quietly" figuring that out, and it opens up a lot of riding. My DRZ right now I bought with the Yoshi RS3 {the loud one} and it sounds amazing, but also sounds like a small block 350 on open headers. I usually hold it back in resi areas. The KLX i can ring its neck everywhere, and thats more fun.
Good advice for sure. I have done everything I can to my klx so far. Kdx snorkel, fmf exhaust, second throttle place removal, power commander fuel controller, ims gas tank, tst rear tail tidy, rack, skid plate, dual sport windshield, just ordered a seat concepts seat. I feel kinda stupid for putting so much money into this bike but for me it is perfect. I don't see myself selling the bike anytime. I feel like maybe I should have just bought myself a 450rl but even then people have to dump money into them to get them to run right in the first place.
Doing it is the only way u learn what was worth it, and what was frivolous spending. I had fun when I was younger for sure! But I also buy/sell what ever bike fits my current riding desire at the time and it got expensive. Pulling the parts off and selling them seperately got me about half my $ back on aftermarket parts.
Thanks for your expert advice on the KLX. Everyone always looks for more power after actually owning it for a while. For seventy bucks , your right on the money about adding stuff to the bike. Thanks again for your excellent suggestions.
Far from an expert, but definitely a guy who spent WAY too much $$$ on aftermarket power mods in the past. My trip to AZ this winter was great. Memories and experiences vs bolt on 1.5 hp LOL.
Thanks for the advice! I have a 2022 KLX 300 out in Arizona. I've already done several mods, but I like the "less is more" approach, too. Didn't know about the chain mod. Gonna try that.
That, AL Sprocket, and tires. People dont believe ya! An AL rear sprocket {over 45t is when the weight saving starts} and MX chain shaves off 2 to 2.5lbs off the crank, thats why 125cc race bikes use them. And people throwing a D606 or Dsport on the rear dont realize it adds almost 3lbs and makes your gears taller.
Almost bought one a few weeks ago.. dealer advertised one price then when i got there he wanted ALOT more. I will get one after the new year sometime. Good Vid.
Sorry to hear, its a crap shoot with dealers. The small dealerships are the way to go, no destination, prep, BS fee's. I got a deal buying late fall in Midwest I think.
I tried changing the counter shaft but still found my KLX 250 to be geared to high. I changed the rear from a 42 to a 52. It really improved the off road characteristics. 55mph is now around 6,000 rpm so you will need to avoid pavement.
You know, I appreciate this. Kind of gave me a reality check. I was already pretty satisfied enough with my bikes power. but, I was still thinking about dropping a grand or so just to get a few more horses out.
It really is up to you. I learned a lot. But, made a ton of mistakes. Spent a ton of $. Now....spend $ on tires and sprockets for your riding preference. And gear thats comfortable making your ride more enjoyable. More "anything" means a different bike.
@@FoilPowell In my opinion that is the perfect set up for this bike. Id only go 13/42-45 if was going do some serious single track riding with enduro friends.
Getting ready to turn 69 and first bike I bought was at 12 that I also used to throw newspapers from. Like you said I went through the 465, 490, 500 2 stroke rockets, then as the years piled on moved to 250's, I sold my WR450 for this 2022 KLX because I was tired of riding a saw horse getting my arms ripped out of their sockets. I'm after reducing weight so I replaced the muffler with a carbon fiber unit, removed lower half of that rear fender flap (just below the license plate) and went a couple sizes up on the rear sprocket, lost 5 lbs. Wait till you mount some real tires on it, no more power but for low end single track it became a different machine.
I have a pile of tires. I prefer these D605's. Iv got a lot of enduro bikes and experience, having a bike actually smooth and enjoyable on pavement is a welcome joy and I ride 2x as much cuz of it. I did a video on them offroad, 90% of people blame these tires but they dont have their sag set or adjust psi.
@@tieoneon1614 I have a BMW F800GS for roads both paved and Forrest service access. Just needed something tamer for single-track that I can throw on the back of the RV and ride from camp. Totally agree, compared to all those open class motocrossers it's less work, more fun. Ride safe.
Nice straight up solid information based on real world experience. I made the mistake of modifying my Yamaha XT250 and literally dumped over 1k into it to gain basically nothing . So I sold the XT250 and I’m looking at buying the KLX 300 ( was considering the CRF300L ) but the Kawasaki just appeals to me more because of the better suspension and maybe it has a little more grunt ? ( 292cc vs Honda’s 286cc ) I don’t know because I haven’t ride either one , your feedback on this is appreciated. I’ve never owned any Kawasaki products before. I had a 2005 Honda CRF250X that I basically learned to ride on and a 2015 KTM350 EXC-F that I would never buy again because of the insane maintenance intervals and cost of ownership and at my age the tall seat height was becoming a challenge for my old body ( Great Bike though ! It’s like the Ferrari of dual sports ) I’m 60 now so I don’t do anything crazy anymore and I think this KLX300 is a bike that I can have fun on without feeling underpowered or intimidated by too much power , it lies between the mild XT250 and wild KTM350 EXC-F .
Thanks. I think far too many get duped into the KTM Koolaid from people touting them as "dual sports"....they are not they are plated enduro's. Id highly recommend the KLX. Its chassis and suspension is from the older trail bike, it handles way better offroad than the CRFL. Suspension clickers do the job for heavier guys. Super smooth grunty motor after u get the 13t on and pull snorkel. Great woods dual sport, a tad bit under powered for desert, high altitude, or open terrain I felt...but I mainly ride in WI. Theres an ECU flash available now that adds 2hp everywhere and 6hp mid range rpm, with stock exhaust if u want a little more or want to keep the higher 14t gearing. Its my 3rd KLX, I always come back. They just feel refined and capable anywhere, are bullet proof and affordable. And now look a little better LOL.
@@tieoneon1614 Thanks for the feedback , I appreciate any input as I’m actively seeking out the pros and cons before I buy . And yeah you hit the nail on the head with the KTM K👀L Aid , I drank a full glass of that delusional juice lol 😝 Never again ! You just can’t beat the simplicity , build quality and all around practical capabilities of the Japanese bikes for the money spent .
@@NorthwoodsNomad 100%. I just sold a 20 year old DRZ400 {KLX400 actually, Kawi fan here} with 15k miles on it i picked up as a project. After replacing wear items it was so damn good I almost made it my only bike. If u are tall/heavy and ride more open terrain or mainly dirt roads, that bike is hard to beat cuz of the power and suspension is better than the KLX. Its just heavy, REALLY top heavy + that trans pisses everyone off after a few months. The KLX is just better offroad, 6 speed, efi, yada yada yada...many videos bout these two. I love all the dual sports from the Big 4.
@@tieoneon1614 Do you have a link or recommendation for the ECU flash for the KLX300 ? And what about an aftermarket exhaust ? Slip on or full blown exhaust from the head back ? Can you just do the slip on and air box without any issues or should do the ECU flash too ? I am 190 lbs 5’9” probably 210 with my gear on so just looking for some extra umph to climb hills and get around
You got some common sense T.O.O.... Modding can easily get ridiculous, especially if someone is trying to make their bike into something its not. Luckily I like riding more than wrenching so I'm always careful to make sure what I do to my bikes benefits the ride and it not wasting my time and money. But it has been fun getting the new bike setup 😎
The DRZ was the only bike that after all the stage 1 power mods, made me say "Holy Shit". Luckily I bought this one that way, and rode a new one without the airbox, jetting and pipe to feel the difference. And for the back roads and dirt roads i was riding, it was worth it. But mines so gawd damn loud too, sounds good but kinda hate it for that. Yoshi RS3 {RS2 is the quiet one, this one sounds like a small block 350 w/ open headers}
@@tieoneon1614 I rode a stock DRz a few years ago, I remember how much I liked how the engine felt. This modded one is no different, only more better😉. The engine power and feel is the best part of a DRz. But I'm on the fence about this MRD Z-Pro exhaust...Even with the "quiet baffle" is not what I would consider quiet. I'm 56, grumpy and don't want to attract attention when I'm riding on or off road. I'm not doing anything with the exhaust until I find how how it is to live with during the riding season.
I have a 2014 KLX250. It was the last year for the carburetor. I have been thinking about getting a newer one with EFI but I put a 331 kit in the one I have now and would definitely miss the power I'm sure. If I ever plan to take an out west high mountain trip I may seriously consider a newer model.
I ALMOST instead bought a mint '06 KLX250 with 400 miles on it, and was going to put the 331 in as a winter project. But...after seeing this color come out and looking like i'll be working overtime all winter I decided to just buy new instead of trying to build, and Im not good with jetting. Finding one local, with no extra fee's, and me wanting to take a trip this month it was just too much to pass. I have a DRZ and KDX right now too, will be selling them to just go down to 1 bike.
KDX snorkel, EJK Tuner, PAIR valve, Delkovic 14" w/ O2 bypass, and STP. removal For me the STP was well worth it for my KLX300 and KLX250, engine does not run rough at idle.
If u got everything done, u are missing out by keeping that air lid on. The kdx snorkel is still restrictive, does nothing for power any snorkel is strictly a noise damper. The airbox is the most restrictive part of this engine. The guy with SM dyno vid's got 2.2hp more just by taking the lid, after pipe and tune. And after fully modding my last two, im perfectly happy leaving this one stock including the plate.
It doesnt affect the top speed cuz the OEM sprockets are too high for 6th gear to rev all the way out. The bike can only do 80-84mph depending on rider regardless of gearing. 13/40 still doesnt redline at 80mph but its close, at 70mph tach is at 8k rpm which isnt rung out if u wanted to hold it on highway for awhile. But I cant see anybody wanting to with this lightweight bike. 60-65mph is comfortable.
The OEM chain fit. I went to take it off, found out its riveted and no master link. U can weasel the new sprocket in without taking chain off, but its tricky. Id suggest ratchet strapping the rear wheel forward cuz the brake line wants to push it back, eating the slack in chain.
I clean the chain a lot if Im riding offroad. Its not a great mod If u dont like to clean the chain. However I really like the gold shiny look matching the fork tubes so its routine for me after an offrode ride. Riding on street doesnt get the chain dirty. The stand and brush I got makes it easy. The "lean" topic is WAY over dramatized. The fan rarely kicks on meaning the engine isnt hot. Even at stop lights. I heard it kick on my last ride, cuz I was idling a lot putzing around in 1st gear in the woods. Dont let the bike idle for more than 3 minutes if u dont ever want the engine hot. If the fraction of "lean" on this bike "could" do any damage it would result in the piston only lasting 62,000 miles instead of 65,000.
Hay how come you never went to a DRZ400. Thinking of getting a DRZ more power, but i here the KLX is a scooter? What do you think? Jeff from ND. New subscriber
I own one, its sitting behind the boat. The DRZ is only fun on the road or open trails, its a street bike and feels like it offroad. The KLX feels under powered before broken in, oem sprockets and snorkel in.
I like the way you think. I see these guys dumping all that money into these bikes to gain 4hp. Makes no sense to me. I put the 13t sprocket with some dsport tires. I couldn't be happier. I've got 600 miles on my 2024 klx 300. It's as smooth as butter.
Right on, got 600 miles on mine too. Surprising how much attention they are getting now with just the new colors and headlight re-style. I see Big Rock Moto just picked one up. He's going to dump a ton of $ into, LOL. I dont always agree with everything he says but he puts out great content. Looking forward to the KTM snobs whining in the comment section when he praises it. AND he rides in my old turf, and love that he doesnt tell anybody where it is! It was Dual Sport heaven out there.
@tieoneon1614 they've definitely grown in popularity. It's just a rugged low maintenance machine with a reasonable price tag. And they look good to. Did I hear you say something about New Mexico?
@@Dont.Tread.On.Me1974 you got censored somehow again, can read part of your comment in notifications about Cloudcroft. I will be staying a night or two in Lac Cruces cuz White Sands is on my list
I just always buy the 120 and cut them with a chain cutter tool. U can measure it correctly. Heads up the oem chain doesnt have a master link so u need to cut it. U can slip the 13t on the front without removing it though, its tricky buy doable.
i have a klx300sm, would it be worth it to change the sprocket ratio to 13/37 from 14/37? i ride mostly highways and top speed is like 85mph. but i want to change the front to a 13t so it could pull easier (for wheelies and such).
Yeah, that would equal 14/40 on the oem Dual Sport model and I felt that is decent gearing for street use. U still aint gonna rev out 6th gear, at 13/40 its just under redline at 85mph. Sprockets are cheap and easy to switch/play with. If u havent pulled the snorkel and swapped to MX chain I recommend it.
@@tieoneon1614 thanks for the quick response! gonna buy the mx chain and sprocket next. Should i also replace the rear sprocket too? since i’m replacing the front sprocket and chain.
@@jojolobo773 Theres no need to. The best scenario I think is finding a gear ratio u like, and just swapping the 13 and 14t to suite what u are doing cuz u can use the same chain and its easier. If u swap the rear sprocket, u probably will need another chain length. Heads up the OEM chain doesnt have a master link so u have to cut it. However there is juuuust enough room to swap the front sprockets by leaving it on. And most MX chains stretch a lot first couple hundred miles, so u gotta re adjust and lube it often. Helps to keep the chain guard on too cuz otherwise it flings lube everywhere when riding lol.
You seem hesitant to try the secondary throttle plate removal. Between 5-7k rpm is where the powerband is mostly changed, from idle-->5k(smooth), 5k-->7k (power flattens), 7k--and up (kicks and pulls again. To where that 5-7k sag is smoothed out and the entire band feels complete. However, I did mine with a tuner at the same time, and as the bike is "known" to run lean: would probably be cause for concern as you're introducing more air into the engine and could probably explain why some may have reported a worse running engine. All in all, I did feel a significant performance increase and would do again.
I didnt explain well enough what i meant. The 13/40 puts the gear ratio close enough so when u are on the throttle taking the gears higher, it never falls to 5k rpm. Even if at 5k and open the throttle its into 6500 so fast it makes no difference. Unless u have the oem gearing, or higher THEN it would help stretch those gears out. So it would have zero posititve impact for me. And the guys I talk to said the engine lost power at real low rpm, like right above idle in second/third gears and thats what I ride in the woods and trails. So, its a NO from me. All my EFI offroad bikes without a secondary have had snatchy jerky throttles, and i hated it so I will stick with Kawi on this one. Iv ran 300 miles on a test spark plug to see if its lean, its not. KC Outside has put a slip on AND higher flow snorkel on, and 1k miles his plug was good too. And like i said, after years and multiple bikes putting tuners on...its just not worth it to me any more. Im happy with the performance and know how to diagnose a lean bike.
@@tieoneon1614 My apologies I didn't clarify as well. I'm running no lid with a high flow DNA filter, and a shorty pipe that is hardly a muffler; in fact you can look down the 3" opening and see the pipe on the other end with nothing but a few inches of mesh indentation to "muffle". ( Basically running a straight pipe with a can passing as a muffler) Loved the ear piercing sound but had to put in the DB killer as it wasn't very stealthy and people not liking the sound of a growling thumper ruining their sleep as it passes by in the middle of the night. But that's besides the point. Good demonstration on the tire spin with the new chain. Definitely has gone on the list of upgrades, 👍
@@scottboucher5329 tons of companies make them. Cheap ones on amazon are Niche, they stretch a bit gotta tighten them twice. 35 dollars. Firepower Gold is 55 dollars. Any motorcycle supply store with carry them also
How is that bike compared to the Suzuki DRZ 400SM ? I know this Suzuki has way more power, but what’s the benefits of this Kawasaki over it sides fuel injection?
If u want a SM bike there isnt much benefit of the KLX. The DRZ is better by a lot. The KLX is smaller if u are, more refined with 6th gear/ EFI. The dual sport KLX is better than the DRZ cuz it handles offroad WAY better, if u trail ride.
@@tieoneon1614 ok thanks so if it’s a Japanese SM DRZ is still the way to go, and I hear the bike is getting upgraded this year but I won’t hold my breath lol
@@StevieDee73 after the usual power mods to any DRZ its frickin powerful. On the road it'd be way more fun. I fixed up an old one last year and ALMOST made it my only bike. But for me trucking my bike to remote offroad areas the KLX is better all around
I tried to explain it a little in the vid. U are lessening the power loss from the drivetrain. The MX chain is over 1lb lighter, and 50% less friction. So in the vid I spun the rear wheel by hand, it went around about 2 turns. With the oem O Ring chain it barely spins 1 turn by hand. With less weight to turn and less friction to stop it, u gain back some of the hp. Putting a bigger heavier Dunlop D606 for example does the opposite, people dont realize that tire is almost 3lbs heavier and robs power
Im not against removing the STP, but its only helping from 4000-5500 rpm. The chain and snorkel out add it entire rpm range. With the snorkel out, the motor starts pulling harder at 5500 rpm instead of 7k like Best Dual Sports cuz he has his airbox closed up for sound. And with the 13t sprocket any kind of spirited riding the rpm's are always above 5500. IF u did ALL 3...then u would really be onto something. IF i got time to tinker I might try it. But seeing how many people screw it up by stripping it out I dont want to suggest it. Its up to you.
More like 4000 to 6500 , right in the range I'm at most of the time . 6500 is 65 mph I'm rarely above that. The STP doesn't fully open til around 7000 according to the dyno tests I've seen run .
@@danielgreen7159 The STP out would probably be good for 14/40 sprockets. However 13/40 with the STP in is still going to be faster no matter what and for my riding that sprocket set up is perfect.
If you keep the rpm way high most of the time it may not slow you down much ,but it'll never be faster with it in no matter what the situation. Dyno tests show that there is no time or situation where they actually make more power with it in ,only less. I'd really like to ask a kawasaki engineer that knows why it's there ,because from everything I've seen it accomplishes absolutely nothing positive as far as performance is concerned in any situation.
@@danielgreen7159 100% incorrect. You are just digging yourself deeper here trying to double down on your opinion. And dont need a damn engineer to tell u why that throttle plate is in there. Pay attention this time, Im not going argue facts. Lower gearing getting more torque off the line not only gets up and going faster, it gets u past the rpm where this would matter AT ALL. Period. If u were doing a 0-60mph pull you only be between 4-7k rpm for a split second in first gear, every gear after that is past 7k with the 13t sprocket in. Acceleration in every gear is faster cuz of the 7-8% more torque multiplied by 3 teeth bigger equivalent sprocket making shorter gear ratios > harder pull. Longer gearing like the 14/40 would see more benefit like I said cuz there a longer time/longer gear that is in that middle rpm range, again in every gear. Secondary throttle plates are used in a lot of carburetors also, to control vacuum pressure, making smooth throttle, and control a lean condition of too much air rushing in on the primary throttle opening. In wide open throttle such as dyno runs, it doesnt matter at all cuz max amount of fuel is applied also. Why Kawi programmed it open fully at 7k cuz at that rpm most people are wide open throttle. Ride your bike in very hot climate, or higher than 5k ft elevation and your bike wont have a lot of power at low rpm and small throttle openings with that STP out cuz now there is even less O2 availabe in the atmosphere. The 300R doesnt have a STP cuz its running a different ECU with no O2 sensor, running richer cuz it doesnt have to meet all strict EPA restrictions being a trail bike. So in conclusion here! I really like how smooth and grunty my bike is at low rpm tractor type woods riding, and with just a 13t it IT IS faster than a the OEM bike geared 14/40 with the STP out. U can keep yours out, I will keep mine in
