HOLY CRAP! 800 MILES??? That catch can needs to be much bigger. You could just empty it out every 800 miles or so, but good lord, you're going to have problems if you forget.
Slightly unrelated. If my auto wipers continuously go off even with no rain, what’s going bad and how to replace? It annoyed me so bad I had to pull the fuse for the wipers themselves.
I had the same issue. You have to replace the wiper switch. It's like $25-$40. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g4OpOdvKpF4.htmlsi=bya-dB0OkhPi_kud
Thanks. Going to save 400 on not getting these. After seeing it all together, I just don't find it that visually appealing. Each to their own though. God bless.
@rob3568 so I put some shudder fix in it, and that solved the problem. I had it in there for 9k miles before I changed the fluid. After I changed the fluid it's still all good.
Awesome install video bro!! Clever way running inside the cab from behind the seat!! I didn’t even know that vent was there! 😂 final product looks amazing! Just subscribed 👍
They are running good. Don't think I can tell if the tone is different in the exhuast. When I went to the dealer. They looked at my year truck. They are still using the old style l.
I think you’re low buddy. What I’m seeing is it has to be at the top of the “B”. Trans temp of 193-215. I had mine serviced at 36k. Thinking of doing another swap of fluid at 50k. I’m gonna use a pump extractor. Good luck! I can accept the short dipstick but for the love of God ford why is it right next to the cat.
Tile setter here. I run the best beads in the West! 😉 Im hoping that the first setting is slow enough for my needs, it looks like it will do nicely. Pro Tip: instead of cutting your nozzle at an angle and dragging the caulk along (like in the video), cut the nozzle square (perpendicular to the tube) and push the caulking. It will enter the joint insread of sitting on top. The square cut nozzle also makes the perfect scalloped profile when held at an angle as you push the caulking gun along your joint. Yer Welcome🍻
Lay a couple of short pcs of 2x4 on edge, and set your pan in between them. Run a couple screws thru a pan hole on each side, to hold it in place while you're scraping gasket. Then you have two hands to work with.
Ok i just got my truck 3 months ago and its doing the exact same thing! I just saw your first video and im on my way to Auto Zone now! I'm hoping for a simple fix just like you had!
Great detailed how to video. When getting to the one behind the head, did you have to remove the little clip first? Or where you able to just unscrew it and remove the line as a whole?
@BreakdownswithBrian gotcha. I figured it out and for me personally it was easier to lay on top of the engine and use one hand to feel the fitting and the other to hold the wrench. Had it put in 15 mins or so
Do you happen to have part numbers for the coolant lines and such that you were replacing? I’m ordering both kits you have listed in description this week to fix my 2016 3.5
@@BreakdownswithBrian mentioned in video it didn’t include the fittings outside the turbo. You happen to know those part number sir. Ty for your help!!
@@BreakdownswithBrian torque converter shudder. theres tons of videos and forums on the subject. i'm at 105k and just starting to lightly get it. time for pan drop and filter change, 7.5 qts of fresh mercon lv, and a squirt of lubegard shudder stop if the fluid/filter change doesnt fix it completely.
It may be the torque converter. But adding the shudder fix and/or changing the fluid most of the time will fix the issue. Like it did mine. I added the shudder fix, and it held just fine for 9k miles. Then, I changed the fluid and it is still all good.
Man you are so much better off to wire them to an independent switch instead of backup lights. You don’t need them on every single time you backup. Probably 90% of the times, he’s daylight. Secondly, if they are wired to reverse lights, you have no extra light when you get out to hook up. You can’t leave the truck in reverse so they stay on while you work behind the truck
Thanks for the input. I've owned the teuck for 4 years and only trailered 2-3 times. I have a longer driveway that I back up quite a bit. So it suits me just fine. Thanks for watching.
I watched this video bought the Vland version of those I loved the look but similar issue; my reverse/brake didn’t work on the driver side so I sent it back and didn’t order another pair. Been so hesitant on ordering another pair
Thank you. I have to say I've watched alot of videos and yours is the most thorough. Not knocking anyone else's but you really got alot of good shots of everything! Anyone looking to do this can get a good idea of the complexity. I'm going to be doing this job in the near distant future as my jiffy fittings on the driver side are leaking. Currently getting all my parts together. I went with Full Race manifolds/ adapters as I want to just knock out all out in one shot. I've got new jiffys to replace them all and the tubes. Also replacing the oil lines/ filters as well.
Great video been checking around for someone to do this job, crazy price rates I've tackled worse jobs might do it with my son. Appreciate all the info on everything you need to do the job thanks from Oregon.
Im over 160k miles on my 2015 2.7l ecoboost. I have had to replace the auto start/stop oil pump on the transmission. Along with a Vapor Purge Valve. And also some TPMS sensors. Also had rear window seal start to leak so just used some autoglass silicone to seal it up better. I have put about 7k miles on it. Its been a good truck for me for what i need. Its had regular maintenance from old owners however I would like to get around to changing the spark plugs and changing the rear diff fluid. Unfortunately my oil pan gasket leaks so the oil pan has drops of oil and when it sits . Will keep up with regular maintenance for now 👍
@@BreakdownswithBrian Ill have to check out the diff video 👍I have to replace my oil pan soon since the gasket is leaking, however its a longer labor job oh well.
I used both, working as heavy duty tech, and Milwaukee if you use it daily a lot it burns the thermal fuse inside and stop working , I guess if you use it and turn it off so it cools down then maybe it is fine plus goes through batteries as crazy. Snap on is not bad, I like the case with everything needed in there, from all of the butane soldering irons I have used before that one the best so far, also goes through butane quickly especially if you keep it on all the time which I do and just take butane can with me it also smaller than milwaukee and easier to maneuver in tight spaces. I also tend to use good old weller pistol grip corded iron when there is lots of wire soldering
Yeah, I've replaced the fuse a few times. Went with a bigger fuse. I like how the milwaukee can stand up with a bigger battery and the snap-on with the magnet. But I would go milwaukee
Appreciate the video. I didn’t think it would be difficult but it’s always nice to see what I’m getting into before I begin. Thanks a lot. Really good video.
Did you notice more of a rumble, or resonance inside the cab when driving around? I installed the stage 2 (with dry filters) a couple days ago and mine seems to somewhat drone inside the cab now. Is that normal?
