Racing, building, breaking, repeating.. Toyota enthusiast. All things auto enthusiast Car reviews, tool reviews, race event and venue reviews. And entertainment that might be associated.
Great review. I would add that arraging the bikes so the are opposite, front tire on one next to rear tire on the other, helps with less issues as well as a hitch silencer which takes out the slop and wiggle of the rack.
Have u ever had any issues with sensors going bad ? Map , O2 , cats ? From Doing the induction service ? Iv been doin some research into this I have 2 GDI engines comming up on 30k i want to invest in the induction tool and cleaner to do this service every 30k or so . BTW I’m mechanically inclined so I do all my own maintenance I don’t use shops unless it’s a tranny issue
The octane of the fuel won’t offer any benefits over lower grades. Some fuels do have higher levels of cleaning agents which can reduce the carbon build up, thus the need for services as such. Fuel tank additives would help keep fuel systems clean as well, most benefit for port injection vehicles such as your GX. Last I knew Exxon followed by shell offered the highest levels of detergents in their 87 grade fuel. Shell has the highest cleaning power in high grade fuels last I knew.
@@anthonyz7023 having port injection of any variant keeps most of the carbon at bay with quality fuels when comparing to strictly DI. I think I read 470 not 450
My Mercedes has high mileage, about 160k, I'm going to be doing an oil change and air filter change as well as fuel service. But I'm not sure if it can be done because the MAF sensor is attached to the throttle body. It's a V8, what do you think? It also only takes premium gas.
Maf sensor location isn’t an issue as long as whomever does it is knowledgeable and not just making quick money. Do this before the oil change too. Premium fuel helps but fuel quality isn’t necessarily the only cause for this condition. Many more factors. Age and overall health of engine is to be considered, best have someone who knows your vehicles history best do it unless you are capable of it yourself.
See, I'm debating here. I picked this up for local travel however I'm debating on if this is good enough to bring 2 gravel bikes from NY state to Colorado. I haven't had much luck in finding out others' experience with this rack. I'm tossing between trying it or purchasing another rack that's about $300
Recently got one of these and has been working great so far. Was $44.99 here in Tennessee. I also ran a bike lock through the hole at the bottom of the rack and through the hole on my hitch just in case.
Even fully loaded on German Autobahn on average speeds of 160kmh I get 1000km on full tank of diesel. Only 150hp 2.0 TDI but it consumption is not getting over 6.3 liters on those speeds.
My 2013 Hyundai Genesis had the fuse box around the left side of the dash and did not look this one. I was ready to give up and then sprayed WD40 around the lock on the inside of the door and tried to open it. Presto! It was fixed.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. You sound professional and know what you are doing. it would be great if you could post links or the part numbers for both cleaners. Thank you in advance! Also, to my understanding, it is 2 different services when I called a local Toyota dealer, they told me that it is 1 service. I am not sure if I asked them correctly. I told them I needed an "Air intake valve and Combustion Chamber cleaning service" and "Fuel injector cleaning service". Please advise if I should've asked differently.
Thank you, glad this video offers useful info! These aren’t “set” services but the industry or dealer, so you may find some variances. Which means it’s good to understand what you ask for /what you get. Some dealers do this as one service, others you’ll find may only do one “part” or the other. For reference I mean intake /induction service being the throttle clean and fluid ingested and injector being specifically the can the vehicle runs on. Often people selling the service mistake the fuel tank additive as the injector cleaning portion. Which isn’t wrong, but that’s more a fuel additive with slower/less effective cleaning effects. When you ask your dealer, ask if their items are the one which allows the vehicle to run stand alone off the cleaner or if it’s the one that mixes the chemicals through the intake and adds a supplement to fuel tank. Or both if sold as one. I think you asked correctly and are now finding yourself in one of the greater issues within the industry - detailed knowledge of services over the game of telephone. Don’t be afraid to see if they’ll let you speak with a skilled tech! Also. These may not be sold over the counter at a dealer but I’ll try and find the part numbers and post more here.
@RaceBreakRepeat Great, thank you so much for your prompt response. I'll keep an eye on here. If you would post more regarding the Part Numbers or the links, I would greatly appreciate your time and effort.
Unfortunately I spent $170 for a shop to investigate only to tell me they didn’t know how to fix it but this video was so incredibly helpful. 2018 Genesis G80 3.3T.
@@RaceBreakRepeat I do have one question regarding fuel pump. You connected the fuel pump line to the other line. Is it ok to simply remove the fuel pump relay or do exactly what you did? Thanks an advance
Don't premium for a car that calls for 87. Just get a listed top gier gasoline, Techron is good, and just hit the highway and open it up every now and then. Shit, redline it while getting onto interstate, providing the engine is warm, once a week. Unelss you have direct injection (and not Toyota D4S), get top tier gas and check the throttle plate every now and then. Dont waste money on these services unless theres an actual performance/economy issue. Highway driving + top tier gas will be all you need for all port injected systems and likely for all Toyota D4s. However, there's even more cases where opening up on the highway is good.. the new "Prime" hybrids... If you always recharge and never use the ICE to regen the battery, thinfs can eventually happen. Good to take a highways spin and let the good ol gas engine charge it ip. All those trips but hardly used the ICE.. and when you do, it's for such a short time that you never reach nominal operating temp., and thus carbon slowly builds and builds
The big important part is the back of the intake valves. A+ for D4-S here! DGI cars need this more. Especially those struggling with carbon. EGR isn’t helping (thanks epa lol) but yes. Running the engine hard during in ramps now and again is good provided there isn’t any detonation
Dealer rip-off for sure given the product cost and how much they charge. You can do it at home for less than $100 including buying the hardware. There are lots of other brands besides BG products you can use.
Rip off, no. High profit center. Yes. Not recommended for those who don’t understand the mechanical risks though. But yes. If you know how to properly do it you can do it far cheaper. The service outcome is justified though. Price varies per dealer though.
These are a pain in the ass lol Have used many service manuals and stuff and can't find the actual meaning of the different settings... I appreciate you writing them down however on this 2019 model the nas 10 was different😂
sick! now i'm thinking about this car as a possibility, lol. we have a 4 door 2012 mazda3 hatchback that's been great for a long time. the car won't die, though!
I just set the B trip to zero when changing the oil and watch mileage. 3500 miles on trip B time to change the oil. Trip A i use to find out how many miles per gallon i am getting. at each fill up i set Trip A back to zero. When maintenance light comes on i just reset to what ever is on the screen.
Throw on a XC6.0, big difference. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IDutTs7KEKU.html Remember what you bought....a tool with 220 ft lbs, so it wo't replace your mid torque or high torque, or a torch. However, it is far more powerful than the ratchet at 55 ft lbs, and 70% of the time most of us use the ratchet on areas where space is not always that tight...and this has way more power, and takes nuts off fast. I also don't welcome the idea of pushing my Milwaukee ratchet on a 80 ft lb bolt, when the right angle can do it for me. I have the 1/2 inch and love it. The expectation you have in this video is that it should have taken everything off. Well, the mid torque can't do it all either. Pick the right tool for the job.
