I am currently printing this model, and the issues im running into trying to print the parts mkes me really appreciate the effort you m ust have gone too, to print this model at the size you have. Thanks for video it really is a cool model and should hopefully look great in the esun bone colour pla ive chosen.
Helo dave. I wanna ask you about carbon things. Lets say i have carbon tube (red : flatbar carbon) is it possible to bending it? If so. How to do it? Thanks
An amazing build, thanks for sharing. Little safety tip though, it's very dangerous to use gloves when operating a drill press. If the drill grabs a hold of that fabric, it's gonna wrap your hand round that drill and mangle your hand. Sorry for being that guy, just looking out for you.
I appreciate you concern. First, that was a mill, not a drill press. Second, the gloves I'm wearing are nitrile and would absolutely just tear off long before pulling the hand into the rotating tool.
@@designbydave Apologies for the mill / drill press mix up. No disagreement from me here with the nitrile gloves either. I was 100% just looking out for you. Great videos. Keep them coming.
I found this video when researching Troodon, if you are upgrading to a eddy probe, I'm deffinitely intrested in how your're doing it and how much it improves
Cool, thanks for checking it out. I have an Eddy probe, but I am just waiting for support for it to be included with mainline Klipper before installing.
Brother this was so cool but it was literally so jarring to get perfect audio in the beginning, and then to jump to 2006 youtube audio was crazy! Brother please the video would be so fucking good if the audio didn't cut in and out, like i wish i could have heard about the project but I'm not what was going on.
Very Impressive. Are the lugs and dropouts holding up after 2 or more years. The version of the video that I watched lost audio every now and again ....did you say that you 3d printed the dropouts .I have made dropouts from carbon layups but thought that the carbon 3d printed material would not be strong enough
Found my way here from your gear tutorial. Your content is great. I'm not particularly interested in astronomy, but it was really cool to see your approach to achieve something well established using new technologies like 3D Printing. Very well explained and demonstrated throughout, as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for checking it out. I figure astronomy, and specifically telescope building it quite niche, but the techniques and ideas here can be useful elsewhere.
One way to link the equation for Twist Value to your equations is to enter a dummy value while creating the sweep feature and then to edit the dimension in the graphics area by double clicking the feature. That will bring up the normal dimension editing window which accepts equations. Alternatively, I believe you can type the dimension name into the Equations dialog. In my case this was "D4@Sweep1" Thanks for the tutorial. Found a lot of tutorials that didn't include Involute, or used poor modeling practices. This was really well done.
I flew hang gliders from 1972 until the mid 80's . This gentleman describes the birth, and evolution of the modern hang gliders perfectly. Thanks for this series of interviews.
Hi Dave, I'm building my first telescope, Maby I'm missing something but I'm not finding the mount for the secondary mirror? Is the one in the original parts?
it's in the STEP file I generated, if you're looking at my version of this telescope. But, yes, thee secondary holder has not changed from the original.
hi, sorry already you made the project and I would like to do it. Which material do you think is best? the pa12 cf 20/25 or the one you used pc cf? the best would be peek but it is very expensive. Thanks in advance
Hey, I'm not sure. You'd have to compare the technical data sheets for the materials. Personally, I don't like the print quality I get with nylon so I try to avoid it.
I'm very late to comment, but sub $600 for a unique frame like this is an incredible value, assuming durability is about as rugged as modern frames. Awesome video, thanks so much!
I realize that you get a better range of motion doing it this way. But I do wonder... Hanging that much weight off one side of the mount will result in uneven load. Wouldn't it run smoother if you had the load centered?
Possibly smoother and, more importantly, less wobbly if the telescope was centered. However that would basically just be a Dobsonian style mount, which already exists for this scope. The purpose of this mount it to have something that will work with a standard astronomy or photo/video tripod that you may already have.
Very impressive build, looks like a lot of thought went into the design details, I know as I have been designing for 25 years. And your build skills are off the charts.
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
The mechanics of manually controlling a dob is really important for the system to really click with end users, so they can spend time using the scope rather than fighting it. It's great you are looking at the issues of telescope mechanics and software with fresh eyes and a perspective on new possibilities that have opened up with the whole maker revolution and the tools that are now available; I feel the old guard of amateur telescope makers can sometimes be stuck on these highly functional, proven designs, but not venture too far from home. I've also found the lazy Susan bearings spin too freely and have very poor runout and slop, which affects orthogonality. Too much effort must be made to fight the shortcomings of their construction. I haven't been able to think of an ideal solution that is significantly better cost: function: accuracy than the old school textured frp and Teflon pads. Looking forward to following your design evolution and thought process. I've currently got a fine piece of machining in a unique alt az mount called the "Lightspeed Wagon" by the late Charles Riddell, who was known for making these bespoke, fantastically precise machined aluminum alt az mounts that can be a joy to use and marvel at their construction...but also have some unforgiving requirements -- if any part was assembled less than perfectly orthogonal, and the center of mass of the mounted scope not balanced correctly -- the experience for the end user quickly falls apart-- scopes fall, parts wear abnormally, etc. it's a great piece to study and it reminds me to not get too caught up in the engineering of certain areas of a design, since it can introduce unpalatable trade offs
Thanks for your comments. I feel like there is a lot that can be improved on this design and thoughtful comments like this give me motivation to keep plugging away at it.
out of interest, you mentioned adhesive for the hub, but didn't mention what you use - I was not sure what you think works best on the metal-to-3dprinted piece ?
3M DP420 is my go-to adhesive of choice for this application. It is rated for metal to plastic bonding. Also commonly used in composites. It's good stuff. Of course, expensive though.
Long wires running up, umbilical style along the bowden tube, out the back and down to the electronics chamber. +5v and ground go to a 24v to 5v buck converter (which gets 24v from the power supply) and then the data cable to the PG3 or PG5 pin on the main board
Thanks, yeah, from what I understand, adaptive meshing is now integrated into Klipper so there is no need for KAMP. However, I should be upgrading to the Eddy probe soon which also pretty much makes that unnecessary. Stay tuned for a video on that.
If you have an Ender3. Dont expect your bed to be flat. Mine are lower in the middle. I fixed it by sticking some alu tape to the magnetic surface. It shimmed up the middle enough to level it.
That's pretty much going to be the case for most print beds. I made an updated video where I talk about that a bit, and the need for a probe to compensate. Your idea for mechanically "flattening" the bed sounds like something worth trying as well.
Honestly I think the title is clickbait. You shouldn't do a comparison video on a 3D printer you do not have. This is the first time I have seen any of your videos. For those of us who work in different fields a voron is a very time-consuming project. The SV08 actually gives me a chance to try some of the voron 2.4 advantages like a flying gantry for a great price and minimal time expendeture for building. I pre-ordered it and hoped it would be out sometime last month like advertised. I do realize things take time and I would prefer to wait if improvements are going to be made over time. Even if it's just software improvements making the process easier. You asked about Soval's products. I have owned a couple. They are the best bang for the buck. Unfortunately like most other modern companies they rush products out and software is minimally if optimized at all. Hardware wise they tend to be the best in their price range.
I agree with you and honestly debated on making this video at all. The context is that I had just uploaded my video about my experiences with the Troodon 2.0 (another "Voron clone") when the videos for this printer started to drop. I guess I felt the need to chime in and at least compare the feature set.
Thanks so much! The focuser is indeed also 3D Printed and it works quite well. There are several designs out there and I basically adopted ideas from a few of them for mine.
great and nice,congratulations~ the focuser is probably one of the most complicated parts of the scope in terms of 3D printed parts assembly~ BTW, nice CG balance calculation~
Running a chamber fan is nuts on your ABS prints. Turn it off. Printing ABS since 2015. 30c chamber temp is the beginning. 50c plus is what you are aiming at to do large prints. ABS is the king of FDM materials (for most projects) all things considered.
Context matters. I need some odor control since I print i my small studio apartment. The filtered exhaust fan is the answer, I just need to have it at a low setting, ~30% speed.
