If you have an Ender3. Dont expect your bed to be flat. Mine are lower in the middle. I fixed it by sticking some alu tape to the magnetic surface. It shimmed up the middle enough to level it.
That's pretty much going to be the case for most print beds. I made an updated video where I talk about that a bit, and the need for a probe to compensate. Your idea for mechanically "flattening" the bed sounds like something worth trying as well.
Thank you SO MUCH, there are so many junk videos out there for explaining z-offset, you explained it beautifully and really helped me fix my prints. +1 subscriber.
Oh man, exactly the video I needed! I had those tiger stripes rippling through my first layer. It was a struggle to find a video with exactly this problem. Thanks for making this video.
Ok, this was a great video. Explaining the exact shape of the nozzle distance issues is what I needed. It made it all click. Most people just show a picture and say too close too far. Thank you so much for this video!
Thank you for this video! I have been trying to print a part with small holes for mounting and was having problems with warping and decreased adhesion around the small areas on the first layer. Increasing the bed temp, decreasing print speed, and adjusting the z-offset in real time while watching the first layer was just the trick I needed. Again thank you so much!
I liked how you kept it VERY quick and beginner friendly for those slicer settings that help with first layer. I think this is a missing link for me thats gonna help beyond just touching that bed all the time.. prolly too much messing with the whole 4 corner bed leveling for my own good.
Glad to help! Yeah it can be tricky to isolate variables, especially as those variables change with materials, and even part geometry. Lots of people post online "WhAt'S WRonG wIth My prINT?" without taking the time to investigate. And then the responses are often less then helpful.
There's a lot a play with larger parts other then the first layer to consider. Material warp as it prints, supports etc. However a good first layer is critical.
@@designbydave Shot man. I'm pulling my hair out from frustration. But I'm sure I'll get eventually. Thinking now that I have never set my z axis home adjustment screw when assembling the printer.
Thx, i have a silicon carbide glass Plate, and this is amazing, it holds everything ABD PETG PLA, without problem, only thing is that you have to wait until it has Room Temperature, but believe me it made my life in 3D Printing much easier.
And now my Printer prints mostly every time, directly after cleaning the plate with alcohol. No Spray nothing, i have a CR10-S with BL- Touch double Gear, full metal headend and a Ruby Crystal Printhead. 🙂
A slight update to this, I might suggest trying Magigoo adhesive as possibly a better alternative. I haven't tried it with PETG, but with PLA its great. They also make nylon and polycarbonate specific versions which work perfectly. They are all water soluble so they wash off the part and build plate easily.
my first layer on my ender 3 v 2 while printing a lithophane box had good squish and great adheasion, the only issue i had was the lines of each pass were just barely touching like fine hair, just missing eachother. if i pull the first layer off and looked through it, it would be like looking out of cosplay white eyes. so that first layer at .2 layer hight making it .25 may work. thank you
What you're describing usually means that the z offset is too high, however in that case you would likely have very poor adhesion. I would first check that you are extruding properly. Calibrate esteps and then flow %. Also check the extrusion width in your slicer. I'm usually at 0.45mm width for a 0.4mm nozzle.
@@designbydave also my extrusion widths are set as percentages. I’m using super slicer. It does a pretty good job. It’s just. You can use % or mm to justify settings.
@@JDMRaw calibrate flow percent (Prusaslice3r calls it "extrusion multiplier) by printing a small, single or double perimeter, hollow object and measure the wall thickness. It should be the extrusion width specified in your settings. If not, adjust multiplier accordingly.
Seems that my temperatures are across the board 10 degrees higher then want is recommended by the manufacturer. New to 3d printing so not sure what to make of it…
As long as you are getting desirable print results, that shouldn't be an issue. Could be that your thermistors are not that accurate which wouldn't be unheard of considering these mostly cheap, mass produced components in consumer level 3d Printers.
thank you for explanation! but what if right bottom of the bed is too far and in the same time left up - is tooo close while testing? How can i proceed here without any adjustable knobs on corners? ender v3 ke, autoleveling and auto z offset
I'm not sure about those printers. There must be a way to mechanically level the bed to a "good enough" state before the auto calibration. I suspect that is done at the factory before shipping. Perhaps your printer is mechanically too far from level that the auto calibration can't compensate. You will need to look into a specific leveling procedure / workflow for your printer. @@whoarewenow
Hello I have a question I’m kinda new to 3d printing and I’m not sure if it’s normal or not that’s why I came here but the bottom of my 3d print I feel like it’s too visible and has a lot of lines pls help me! Thanks.
The appearance of the bottom of your print will depend on the print bed surface. If it's smooth, you should expect to see the extrusion pattern (lines.) A textured bed will help to hide those lines.
Hi David, awesome video! just wandering if you had a video about insulating the inside of your ender 6? and why you did it? Thanks, keep up the awesome vids!
Hey thanks for checking it out! I don't have a video about the insulation and I put that in after I made my main Ender-6 video. I just lined the inside with cheap, garage door insulation, held on with double sided tape. The insulation keeps the enclosure warm, not quite as warm as a proper heated enclosure, but warm enough to print challenging materials like ABS, ASA and Polycarbonate. See my video about printing carbon fiber PC for more on that - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6PIEF9uWKSA.html
@@designbydave The initial first layer that goes onto the bed before the project starts on top of it which is fine and it sticks to the bed nicely but when the project is finished and I try to remove or seperate the first layer or bed layer from the project it is stuck fast to the project and very hard to remove
@@paulcole1171 Let the Bed cool down before trying to remove the part,,, if its still stuck hard and won't come off,,, remove part and build plate ( i assume your using Glass or some type of removable plate) and put it the Fridge or Freezer for a while -,
