What's going on everyone my name is Dan, I love to work on cars and have a blast driving them! I'm not a mechanic so these videos are purely entertainment but might help somebody with a random piece of advice.
Find me on Instagram @DanWithTheWrench Don't find me on Twitter cuz it's toxic af!
Keep up the good work man! Proud to see you doing your thing on this platform, look forward to more, I love my Subaru but man do I miss the Honda game!!
HUGE pucker factor in this video!! I knew EXACTLY where you were and EXACTLY how bad traffic could be, and was praying to Soichiro Honda the whole time! And you totally got this, Dan. <3
"You know what doesn't have coolant in it?" The Transmission! 😆💯 As for the Idle surge on the Prelude. It could be the Fast idle thermo valve. Here is what I would do to rule that out being the issue. Make a block off plate out of some cardboard laying around and bolt it back on to block off the ports. If the idle returns to normal then its the FITV causing the surging idle. If you find out the FITV is the problem. Take the FITV off of the throttle body. Remove the cover that has the valve and inspect the little threaded plastic part inside that has the spring in the middle. Sometimes they can back themselves out and come loose. If that is the case tighten it back up and you are good to go. It doesn't hurt to clean it all out with some parts cleaner also. Sometimes carbon build up and cause the valve to not work properly. It could also be the Electronic Air Control Valve. Especially if its throwing a Code 14. Make sure the coolant lines are not leaking first off. Second take a ohm meter and check the resistance on the EACV. The resistance should be between 8 and 15 ohms. If it has more or less than that replace it. Clear the codes and test drive and see if the idle is normal and doesn't throw anymore codes. Third check to see if the PCV vavle on the intake it sticking. If it is it can let more air into the intake manifold causing idle surging. If those three things do not fix it let me know! We will figure this out brutha! 😆🤟 Cheers Dan!
You are the man, can't wait to try all of these! Next time it throws the code I'll double check it, and the EACV looks new but that doesn't mean it's working properly.. Great to know the resistance numbers so I'll check tomorrow 😁 I've always thought the PCV valve looked a little weird on the prelude, is it something internal that moves up and down or opens/closes? How exactly would it stick? Either way I'll either comment back here or shoot you an email. Thanks homie!
@@DanWithTheWrench No problem at all man! Yeah the PCV should be able open and close freely while being able to seal when it closes. They can clog with Oil sludge and carbon build up over time or the little valve inside stops sealing. Then it can cause a vacuum leak like condition due to excessive or restricted flow rate. They are really cheap to replace so if you have not done it in a while I would pick one up from the autoparts store and replace it to rule that out being the issue.
Poor Jack Black's transmission! It was hard to gently tap that like button after all JB went through in this one! And I've never had someone drive my car for an alignment...but I don't get alignments as often as I should (don't be mad)
OH NOO not the transmission again! What ended up happening to cause it to not want to shift? Also some alignment shops will take the car on a short drive to see what the car is doing before they start working on it. Then they will do a visual inspection of the tires and suspension before starting the alignment. Other shops will put the car on the hoist and inspect the tires and suspension and start aligning it. I totally understand why you don't want other people driving your car though lol I don't like people work on my car let alone drive it while I am not in the car with them. Its hard to trust people.
Yes it's like comical at this point, transmission out/in about once a week 😅 So, the spring that goes in the back of the clutch fork.. I somehow didn't put it in correctly and the small U part didn't go in the square hole. But we'll just say that secondary stack really needed to go down those couple mm and it was all worth it!
Dang that sucks it was just the axle seal leaking and you thought it was the sealant on the transmission lol I guess you did a good job the first time on the rtv 😆
New to the channel, love the good vibes! Little tip on getting the transmission c-clip/locking clip thing back on Once you get the case set on, put a few of the 10mm bolts in to hold it down. Set a rubber mat on the ground (I used an abmat for situps), flip the transmission over and gently drop the c-clip end of the transmission on the ground. One or two drops and you'll hear the c-clip lock in place 👍 issue most of the time is tge input shaft is just barely being pushed on, which causes it to be a pain when locking the clip
That's too bad the seal on the transmission is leaking. I am sure you are tired of ripping out that transmission by now lol At least Jack is rippin now! Hopefully the tape on the valve cover was the reason for the oil leak on the Prelude too and you figure out why the belt was walking on the cam gears. I've never seen that happen before to any of my Honda's I've owned.
Oh I'm so ready to not pull that transmission for a while, just gotta do it while it's all fresh yet again 😅 Now my couple questions are, should I use Honda Bond over this last AutoZone RTV that I tried (and is now leaking) because I followed those directions to the word. And then do you personally lay an even bead around the mating surface or are you a smear guy? This last time was a bead job and I was hopeful but you saw the outcome..
@@DanWithTheWrenchSo how I do mine is put a small bead and smooth it all out with my finger. Then I let it sit for about 20 minutes to let it thicken up a little bit before bolting the case back together. I used Permatex Ultra Gray last time and it worked good. I honestly think the Ultra Gray is the same thing as Hondabond, it just doesn't cost as much lol I could be wrong though.
Yeah I think I'm going back to being a 'smear guy' 😅 Now after the 20 minute wait and the RTV gets tacky, do you fully torque the bolts? Or just hand tight then wait another period of time before torquing
