Thank you for putting this out there to all of us that couldn’t attend and thanks to Steve !

Motors made to be rebuilt hundreds of times, like everything from this era.

Awesome explanation of EVERYTHINGi was wondering about. Thankyou. One question. What part # or capacitor "value" do you use as replacement? NZ based 26 tudor here and learning in a practical manner now i have a T. Finally. Thankyou again for the informative 3 part series. Very helpful

Have you done a video where you show cutting the thrust surface? I think that's particularly tricky and I would love to see it done right. I have a Gene French Line Bore machine and am learning to use it. Thank you!

Mike do you use time saver and check oil clearances on the can bearings and what do you do about cam gear back lash.

I was able to do a pretty good with a dial indicator. I have enjoyed all your videos

Claude Jochmans passed away on December 16, 2023. He was a gentleman and a man of honor. He will be forever known as an asset to the Model T community.

Looks like the KR Wilson is no longer available is there an other way to measure that clearance

The info was good.

Bad video most of it was the back of your shoulder can't see a thing!!!!!!!!

Thanks for all the Great info. 👍

'Promo SM' 😌

Which Permatex Sealer do you recommend? There seems to be so many different ones.

Thank you for making these videos. The detail presented is perfect.

I purchased the engine Mike & Bill used in this series. It will cruise all day long at 50 mph. The engine that was in the car ( not the original ) with the High Compression head would hit 43 mph max. This engine 53 mph. I am so glad I purchased this engine . There is no way to build your engine yourself like Mike & Bill builds them. Tools & knowledge that don't come easy. . It had a slight oil leak & used oil for the first 1500 miles. Not much, but normal T oil consumption. I have 3000 + miles on it now & I can go without adding any oil between changes. I live in Florida & was going to get the Russell rear end but Mike talked me out of it & I'm glad he did. It's not needed with this engine. THANKS GUYS !!!!!!!!! RICK DAVIS

It appears that EIS is no longer supplying the 1/4" tape. 😕 They do have the 1/2" tape, but you have to buy a minimum of 72 rolls! 😮

Do Not loose original hardware. It is like, 1/4" x 26 threads and such. Just like a Justrite carbide lamp, it uses proprietary parts.

#Eighty WATT Iron.

*PromoSM* 👀

dont know why Henry didn't use a bushing instead of Babbitt bearing or was Edsel to blame? good video.

Boy, my gears are like new! I am so pleased with the work done on mine, so neat to see this knowing they are mine!

Yes! This is! WOW! I LOVE MINE! Driving My car now! WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can not stress enough! Folk, replace your old drums with fresh Nolting Drums! when You rebuild your engine! And buy new thrust washers to correctly space your drums around. .17 to .20 end play! My Car drives smooth! Also, you will need a set of later clutch discs! You will NOT be disappointed!

Hey! Is this my set of drums? Great video!

Model a ford crank?

Great presentation

You can test a capacitor with a digital capacitor meter as well and will get the actual capacitor value.

You mention the setting the generator to the neutral position by moving the brush plate to make the shaft have a tendency to go clockwise. Clock wise from your point of view from behind the generator … or for us viewers?

Not sure if anyone is monitoring this channel, but I have a question. I’ve got a KR Wilson tool and went to install it onto the flywheel. The two alignment pins are still in the flywheel. As I drop the tool into the opening in the flywheel, the base of the tool is catching on the pins. The base goes partially down and gets hung up on the bottom half of the pins. There’s obviously an interference part on the pin. My question: do you push the pins out and let it drop in or do you tap the base down?

I want to say thank you for this video and the process of pouring babbitt videos. I've watched a few others videos on pouring babbitt. I have purchased the molds and boring jig. That you are using. I like the idea of your oil holes that you added. I will do that to mine as well. But thank you for the in depth portion of your videos of peening the bearings and mentioning the temps that you are getting to etc. I did my first test pour of the rear cap and I think it came out pretty good. I will be re doing it and practice more before going any further due to I have a few spots that I'm not happy with. I will also try the sound test on my cap for the ringing. There is just so much great information in these videos. THANK YOU.

Can you explain what the dot on the inside on of the piston next to ristpin means.

Would you consider doing a video on wheel alignment? I have a 26T that has the infamous "Death Wobble". Not sure if it is alignment or worn parts. Many thanks!

Nick you failed to point out what field wire goes on which brush, I'm sure the field wire goes on the non grounded brush, right

Perhaps the biggest failure with the T, is the tiny crankshaft. Your careful step by step methods and techniques is excellent. But my question how far should we really go? H Fords methods of assembly line craziness did work. But the life expectancy before these failures took place did seem to work amongst the poor people around the world for sometime. What was the average before these failures, like the tiny crankshaft failure occur?. And what was the normal acceptable vibrations of these solid mounted engines? I tried to follow your guidelines and methods of balancing and alignment and still with a counterbalance crankshaft there is still vibration at over 1500 rpms. It's seems the nature of this beast is inherent and impossible to correct.

Do you just grind the end off of the valve when they aren’t adjustable to set gap ?

Are the camshaft lobes on these engines tapered? I am wondering if these engines have the same issues with camshafts being wiped out due to issues with new lifters.

I understand wanting it right as to repouring the center main my question is about if it was nessarie to re pour all of the mains in the block or could you have just redone the center beaing only If not why ?

Detonation will pound out the top rod insert...

Thanks! Now I have the knowledge to go ahead with the job,

Very helpful, like all your videos. Thanks.

How long does it take the babbit pot to heat to 900° ? Mine won't get anywhere close to 900°

Thank you so much for this information. I will be rebuilding my 1925 model T coupe this winter, and will not be afraid to do this if needed.

I am a EE and have two observations to this superb presentation. The reason the coils must produce alternating current is the trembler coils require AC for the coil box transformers to make high voltage. They are just a short to DC. I would recommend not using the acid flux (as shown here) as after many years it will eat the copper and cause it to fail. Use only rosin core solder for this task or any electrical connection using copper. The process shown produces a beautiful field coil that's sound and reliable. Bravo -

Very informative, well researched and thought out. I'd be fascinated to hear more about theories regarding the Model T's positive camber.

Very helpful, thanks alot!

Very helpful video. Thanks

Excellent presentation, Dave! This is history to be saved forever!

Thank you Mariah! Great job in the time available!

Wonderful presentation!

Thank you for posting! Hoping all is well for you and yours!

Do you guys take on work for folks that don’t have the tools to rebuild these starters/generators? I’m interested in purchasing a Model T…. Right now we have a 1927 Buick Standard but want to add a T and an A to the flock!