I like your videos as you show your thinking and it is like watching an exploration happening on a circuit board. Thanks for posting this I was hooked until the end wanted to see how things worked out.
Thanks. I kept hoping that I would get it and it was very interesting to troubleshoot. I think I need to read an electronics book so I can become more familiar with these types of things.
@@probablycantfixit6426 It's always good to learn more. I have a very old electronics book that my Dad gave me, it has really nice hand drawings in. Despite it being old I think quite alot still applies today. At times I think you are too hard on yourself. We can't fix everything I know I certainly don't, I fail more than I fix, but just enjoy the challenge. I think you have a good methodical approach and I like the journey you take us on in the videos.
Sir, you should be commended and congratulated for your troubleshooting, diagnosis, and repair skills. I had the same issue with my controller. I watched your video a few times, ordered the part through Amazon (next day delivery), replaced the part on the controller, and it now works again. Wow. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video; I am very grateful. A couple of things: 1) wondering what the root cause of the diode failure is; any thoughts?, and 2) do you think that the replacement diode will be robust and not fail like the original one? Thank you again (a proud owner of 99 Schottky diodes :)
That is great news. Question 1: I think the root cause is power surges on AC mains that over time, weaken the diode, and result in the diode shorting. It has been, most likely, designed this way. Question 2: I am sure it will last for a while, but it will fail eventually. What can be done, is you can contact Mouser or Digikey, and they should be able to help you find the exact replacement for your system. They could help you find a diode that would last as long as the original part or longer.
Excellent thanks. Had this issue on an orbit 6 station controller and unfortunately threw it away. Bought a replacement 12 station unit and alas the same issue on this one 2 years later.. Found this video....spent $1.00 at the local electronics store and replaced the shottky and she all works. Would have cost me A$290.00 to replace again otherwise.
Absolute legend!! Thanks for posting this video! Had two separate controllers stop working within a month of each other and was dreading having to spend lots of Aussy dollars replacing them. Few bucks and a couple diodes later, problem solved! Never soldered in my life before, you made it too easy.. I used SS16 1A 60V Schottky diode off Amazon which worked on both controllers. And now I'm armed with a soldering iron walking around the house looking for things to melt..i mean mend.
Just replaced the caps in mine and it still turns off when you turn it on same as before replacing caps. You can see the sega legal disclaimer on the screen before it shuts off.
Can you monitor your voltage rails to see if the voltage is dropping when you power on the console? For example, you should have 5V and it should be steady after the console is switched on. Also, there is a tremendous amount of information here: www.retrosix.wiki/getting-to-red-light-boot-game-gear
@probablycantfixit6426 interesting. I let it sit then suddenly it worked. It would crash while playing a game then suddenly has worked ok so far after that.
@@chriss4365 That is definitely a strange fault. I am assuming you have rechecked all the solder joints on the caps? Are you pulling power from batteries or DC jack?
Defeat is good it is how we learn and improve and this one was always going to be super tough if not impossible. You did what could be done, this video also shows that you are genuine and post your fails as well as your wins. I wish you had kept me guessing though rather than tell me up front in the video title, I will always watch till the end win or fail I enjoy guessing how things will turn out. Here is to the next video thank you for the content.
ya just boult n64 console at video store the day had bent cartage connecter fix was bent tab on the outside cartage connecter fix by bend back i noteced on your it was bent use pilers and flat srew driver had same problam fixed not say its the same problam your haveing
hello everything is fine ? Could you help me? I have a one s, which is not showing an image! I changed the ci hdmi u8b2 and still no image!! I found 5 volts on pin 18 of the hdmi connector, on pin 19, with the cable connected it gives 2 volts, is this voltage on pin 19 correct?
@@probablycantfixit6426 yes... already test the hard drive! What voltage would have to be on pin 19 of the HDMI connector? because I have 2 volts, with cable connected! on pin 18 we have 5 volts!
@@jairjuniordasilvalima1982 If I remember correctly, you should have 5V on pin 18 (console to TV) and 5V on pin 19 (TV to console). Pin 19 is called Hot Plug Detect according to the HDMI specification. That 5V tells the console that there is something plugged in.
Let me go one step further. When U8B1 receives the 5V Hot Plug Detect, it sends out a 3.3V signal through R8B4 which goes to U8B2 (retimer). You can try and measure the 3.3V at R8B4 to see if you are getting the 3.3V. I think your problem may be U8B1. There are a lot of videos on how to bypass that to check and see if it is bad.
Thanks for the feedback. If I made a N64 video today, it would probably be much shorter because I have a better understanding of how they function. When I recorded this video, I had no idea and thus the video was longer.
is hard to make videos when you try to buy faulty items and they come perfectly fine LOL. but i learn a thing. even if the video i short and non conclusive people still watch it to see your experience. and you can also combine multiple videos in one even if they are not a fix. testing stuff is still enjoyable to watch. at least for me
Just copy and reflash original bios, it worked for me! i got the same error when i tried to modify other dump from a working identical system. everything worked fine until i tried to update the sistem.
So is the program not reliable from your prospective sir? I really wanted to hear an opposing opinion about program so I can get aware of it in the future?
you are a GENIUS Thanks!! Just bought a mixed set of diodes on amazon and it has shottkey diodes - wifes losing her mind the yard is dying! Awesome man!
@@probablycantfixit6426 tx yeah hopefully my milwaukee solder iron and wifes glasses are enough to get that bugger swapped. Do you have an idea of where a fuse would/could prevent this? and what size?
Thanks so much for sharing the detailed troubleshooting and resolution. I bought a soldering iron, multimeter, the diodes, and everything else I’d need based off your video and was able to fix my controller. Mine had the exact same issue. You helped me pick up some tools for less than the cost of the replacement 👍🏼
I have heard some people call it screen rot and I think it happens if the screen is damaged in some way. As far as I know, there is no way to "fix it." You can move the black stuff around using a plastic pry tool, until it is minimized, but I could never get it to go away completely.
I really don't know how to edit the serial number info. I would check out the Cod3r website (www.consolefix.shop/) as he has a free tool that allows you to change from disc to no disc .
you missed quite a lot of work on this mod. but you can see on one of my video i installed the same kit and show how i do it. screen can still work but is better fix those missed steps
Yeah, if you have some documents, I would gladly take a look and complete what I missed. I was following the pictures on Aliexpress. I will watch your video again and see what I missed.
@@probablycantfixit6426 tell me where i can send those documents and I'll do it ASAP. Or leave a message on my website if RU-vid don't let you give such infos publicly
Alright. I went back through your video and I removed all of the components you mentioned. When I restarted the console, the brightness wheel did not work properly. It was sporadic. I went back in and put Q6, R32, R33, R34, and C44 back in their original positions and now the brightness works properly again. I left Q3, Q4, L2, C70, C68, R56, and R57 (and some of the others) off of the board as they are only needed for the original backlight. With this mod, it is unnecessary to remove any of these additional components but perhaps it will save me some battery life in the future. Thanks for the help.
Hi, thanks for the video, mine is showing No AC as well. Just took off the board and use the multimeter to test the diode D2, while it is still on the board, multimeter shows it is shorted, can I confirm it is the same issue as yours?
@@probablycantfixit6426Update: I took it off the board and the diode is still shorted, showing 1.2 ohm both directions. Replaced with a new one and it works again! Just want to thank you for sharing your experience!
Mine is also now showing the "no ac" msg. I haven't checked the board yet but it's making a slight humming sound when the power is on. Anyone else had that?
@@tonydagostino3441 I would try checking for shorts on all the capacitors. If you can't find a short, then perhaps one of the MOSFETs is not functioning correctly. I think the voltage goes into the BN03 chip, which then outputs voltage to the rest of the board. If you don't have a short, trace voltage until you lose it. What voltage do you have on the inductor near the Diode?
Fantastic!! Thank you for the video and diagnostic tips. Ordered the diodes. From what I have seen the Orbit unit is very sensitive to power fluctuations. Seems like they needed to have a replaceable fuse on the front somewhere to block those tiny spikes to sags that kill this chip. I don't think a power strip surge protector would be enough to prevent this but per your comments, a ups would clean up the power much better. Thank you again for teaching me so much! Now if I could solder cleanly.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Follow up. 100 pack of Diodes arrived and I replaced it. Now the unit works! I did have to look up which side the stripe on the diode needed to face but I watched that part of your video again and caught it. Now i need 99 more of these units to fix!
with all of the reflowing you did, I'm surprised you didn't try to reflow the emmc. Emmc and ram seem to be the biggest problems with these, when it's not a charging problem...
Thanks so much! My diode was short circuit the wrong way as well. I also happened to have the same 1A, 40V shottkey diode on hand, as you did. Took 5 minutes to fix it. I was just going to buy a power board from ebay, but they don't have them anymore and nobody seems to carry them. I have 2 of these timers. I expect the other one will eventually fail.
My Orbit B-Hyve never worked right. The unit would constantly lose WIFI and it never watered my grass correctly. I also got a "NO AC" fault after several months since purchase. The transformer output is 30 volts but the unit is dead. The old turret worked for 25 years with no issues. What a mistake buying an ORBIT product. Junk. Let me try this...
I hope you get it fixed. It sounds like you have an intermittent problem, which is tricky to figure out. The diode may help but it is hard to say. Let us know if you get it fixed.
GENIUS!! Mine had exactly the same problem and I fixed it by replacing the Schottsky diode. Thanks for making a great video. Let us know if yours stays fixed, and I will as well.
These should work: www.amazon.com/100-Pieces-1N5819-Schottky-Rectifier/dp/B079KG1TN2/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1W621ZZ56IFK2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rBj13yxgvFV-ZJI7yhUAGk02FxazEfOqW_iJAYPkyOQx6g1ZIZE2YgXK77wI95pG9zY0gaqr-mg-E77YME_2XmKTnP-W-XGovpez83sQuHD84SDkLqfY96UY8Tj-USndf1SkzrP_-9JHYYVuVtMzlvRhwCHlUX0WJmSA1e92lL_a5E6fEa1DtU6S1rlPg4fLLAVzpzfKW8etoITk8ga3MoShWMhQtpNmg1EByjg3Prs.8jlF0giIN3gMitzFxfcx9CKmt8ur7hjKBstZVaPjDlY&dib_tag=se&keywords=1+amp+60+v+schottky+diode&qid=1716135406&sprefix=1+amp+60+v+shottky+diode%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-11
I had similar problem. Luckily I found this video. Exact same diode like in this video, was showing short when I despise red one leg and tested. Pulled UGP10D diode from on old junk device and replaced. Connected it back and all works great. Thank you so much for such detailed video
ok, listen carefully: there are 5 pairs of test pads that goes from apu to the screen connector. they are located top side left corner of the apu, right side of the emmc, right below the screen connector. there are 5 pairs of golden test pads. you can see if they are connected to the apu by simply check in diode mode. if connected you get a reading and means that the balls are connected from apu to the board. and the problem is elsewhere. my readings for these points are all the same 0.23 you can obviously have slight variation but you need to see a value. if not the apu ball had some issue and is not attached to the board in that specific line
Thank you. I am still trying to get it to work but each time I remove the APU, more solder pads are weakened. This will most likely be my last attempt to get it right.
you didn't check the screen connector. only because you work on the apu it doesn't mean you can exclude a possible damaged connector. you know those are fragile and problematic, especially when you assembly various time in a row. if the console boot is ok and you need to focus on the connector
@@joseramonmartinezmedina1174 you need to check the backlight circuit first. on the lite version are more frequently the problem of "sound but no image" problems
