4 months ago I published a YT video on how to replace the Power Board which, at the time was 20 bucks and change on eBay. Well, at least I now have a spare board... thanks to you! I don't have your diagnostic skills but I do fool around with electronics as a hobby. So after stumbling across your video I plowed around my parts bins and found a 3amp 40v Shottky diode... swapped it in to the failed board per your instructions and Bingo! Thanks Much!
you are a GENIUS Thanks!! Just bought a mixed set of diodes on amazon and it has shottkey diodes - wifes losing her mind the yard is dying! Awesome man!
@@probablycantfixit6426 tx yeah hopefully my milwaukee solder iron and wifes glasses are enough to get that bugger swapped. Do you have an idea of where a fuse would/could prevent this? and what size?
Thanks so much for sharing the detailed troubleshooting and resolution. I bought a soldering iron, multimeter, the diodes, and everything else I’d need based off your video and was able to fix my controller. Mine had the exact same issue. You helped me pick up some tools for less than the cost of the replacement 👍🏼
Hello Sir, I'd like to really thank you for your video here. I bought a shottky diode (1A 100V) for 1 euro here in Rome, Italy, and... success!! The diode was indeed the issue and therefore I repaired my B-Hyve successfully thanks to your troubleshooting! A new one costs around 250 euro, and the warranty just expired...so thanks again!!
GENIUS!! Mine had exactly the same problem and I fixed it by replacing the Schottsky diode. Thanks for making a great video. Let us know if yours stays fixed, and I will as well.
I had similar problem. Luckily I found this video. Exact same diode like in this video, was showing short when I despise red one leg and tested. Pulled UGP10D diode from on old junk device and replaced. Connected it back and all works great. Thank you so much for such detailed video
Fantastic!! Thank you for the video and diagnostic tips. Ordered the diodes. From what I have seen the Orbit unit is very sensitive to power fluctuations. Seems like they needed to have a replaceable fuse on the front somewhere to block those tiny spikes to sags that kill this chip. I don't think a power strip surge protector would be enough to prevent this but per your comments, a ups would clean up the power much better. Thank you again for teaching me so much! Now if I could solder cleanly.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Follow up. 100 pack of Diodes arrived and I replaced it. Now the unit works! I did have to look up which side the stripe on the diode needed to face but I watched that part of your video again and caught it. Now i need 99 more of these units to fix!
Hi, thanks for the video, mine is showing No AC as well. Just took off the board and use the multimeter to test the diode D2, while it is still on the board, multimeter shows it is shorted, can I confirm it is the same issue as yours?
@@probablycantfixit6426Update: I took it off the board and the diode is still shorted, showing 1.2 ohm both directions. Replaced with a new one and it works again! Just want to thank you for sharing your experience!
These should work: www.amazon.com/100-Pieces-1N5819-Schottky-Rectifier/dp/B079KG1TN2/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1W621ZZ56IFK2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rBj13yxgvFV-ZJI7yhUAGk02FxazEfOqW_iJAYPkyOQx6g1ZIZE2YgXK77wI95pG9zY0gaqr-mg-E77YME_2XmKTnP-W-XGovpez83sQuHD84SDkLqfY96UY8Tj-USndf1SkzrP_-9JHYYVuVtMzlvRhwCHlUX0WJmSA1e92lL_a5E6fEa1DtU6S1rlPg4fLLAVzpzfKW8etoITk8ga3MoShWMhQtpNmg1EByjg3Prs.8jlF0giIN3gMitzFxfcx9CKmt8ur7hjKBstZVaPjDlY&dib_tag=se&keywords=1+amp+60+v+schottky+diode&qid=1716135406&sprefix=1+amp+60+v+shottky+diode%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-11
"Probably"... this comment is off topic but I can't help but be curious what your response might be. About the same time my B-Hyve Control Board failed, the control board in our GE Dishwasher (a few years old) also failed. Part nbr "ge265d1462g501mp00". Ordered a new one (a little less than 200 bucks) and installed it. Dishwasher operational again. But when I examined the old board I found that 5 capacitors were kinda 'glued' to whatever component was close. The 'glue' was kinda opaque and I had to gently pry them away. This board lives directly on top. So I am wondering if the heat from the washing process could heat these caps up to the point where the covering melts and glues itself to the nearby component. (And also causes a failure). All that said, and if the heat from the water/steam could be an issue I am thinking... what if I spliced in extensions to all the wires connected to the board and mounted the board in the area under the sink. (Oh... my wife thinks I am crazy!).
From my limited experience, the glue placed on certain components is to prevent loosening from vibration, drop, etc. The times I have removed it, I used a hot air gun to easily scrape it away so I could remove what ever component was faulty. So from that standpoint, the glue is pretty heat resistant but that is not to say, your theory is incorrect. It is definitely possible that prolonged exposure to heat caused the malfunction to begin with. If they are electrolytic caps, then heat definitely affects the capacitance. As to your plan of relocating it, if you don't mind the hassle, I suspect it could prolong the life of the board. To have a backup, I would probe around the defective board with a multimeter and see if I could locate anything suspicious ie. shorts to ground on caps that go to power rails.
@@demiurgiac I just looked up that part number that you provided and I can see the glue you are talking about and it is around some of the electrolytic capacitors and two relays (they may be filters, it is hard to tell). You may have already checked this but if the tops of those capacitors are bulging then you should replace those as the capacitance and ESR are no longer within specs, and wont be able to supply proper voltage. I am sure you have checked all the fuses but if not, I am sure there are some on the board. In any event, it is most likely fixable.
@@tonydagostino3441 I would try checking for shorts on all the capacitors. If you can't find a short, then perhaps one of the MOSFETs is not functioning correctly. I think the voltage goes into the BN03 chip, which then outputs voltage to the rest of the board. If you don't have a short, trace voltage until you lose it. What voltage do you have on the inductor near the Diode?
I am unsure. I know that we had a few days when the power repeatedly went out, sometime over the winter. I have ordered the correct component, and it should be good for another three years, :-). I think that I should invest in a small UPS for it, though, to ensure this doesn't happen again.
Maybe you don't have a cape (SAY NO TO THE CAPE!) but I'm certain that the remainder of your attire is a super hero uniform. I'm getting zero across D2 also. I don't have a replacement on hand, that I know of, but I'm certain that I have the exact same problem.
Mine is also now showing the "no ac" msg. I haven't checked the board yet but it's making a slight humming sound when the power is on. Anyone else had that?
My Orbit B-Hyve never worked right. The unit would constantly lose WIFI and it never watered my grass correctly. I also got a "NO AC" fault after several months since purchase. The transformer output is 30 volts but the unit is dead. The old turret worked for 25 years with no issues. What a mistake buying an ORBIT product. Junk. Let me try this...
I hope you get it fixed. It sounds like you have an intermittent problem, which is tricky to figure out. The diode may help but it is hard to say. Let us know if you get it fixed.
