This chanel aims to provide a better understanding of what Venetian Plaster is and its different application methods. We will create videos of some of our projects to show the process behind this amazing wall finishes. For more info, please check our website.
When adding the pigment to the Venetian Plaster Puty, what is the recommended consistency to mix the pigment and what is the % ratio of pigment per kg of Plaster Puty? THANKS
@@antolinsoldadocamps8396 thanks for your comment! A good start for me is 1ml of tint per 1kg of product for light colours. Easy to keep track this way. In case you want it darker a 5ml/kg would be a good start. I used liquid tints from the paint shop, the same they used to tint acrylic paint. Powder tints tend to not mix properly, then little grains of tint burst when troweling the product onto the wall. It will require a bit of trial and error to achieve the exact colour you want. Good luck and I hope I could be of any help. Thanks again
Thank you, I'll try a couple of different shades. What tint did you use for the wall on this video (graphite?) How much water do you add to 100gr to get a nice consistency?. Last question, how much tint did you add for the wall ont he video? 5ml per kg?
@@antolinsoldadocamps8396 1 or 2ml/kg of black tint. Make sure to mix the product with a proper mixer, it will get a nice consistency to work with, no need to add water at all. Mix again when the product gets a bit hard on the drum. Keep the drum shut at all times to stoped from drying out.
@@venetianplaster thank you. I am a plasterer, started in the UK and now we live in France. I've wanted to do Venetian Plaster for ages and not had the time, now I am making rhe time to teach myself and add it to what I can offer customers. Thank you very much for your time, your videos are great. Keep up the good work 👏 👍👍
This is Marmorino high polished, classic Venetian plaster (stucco) Even though it has some water repellent properties, I would not recommended for a shower wall. Feel free to check my website for more info about products and applications. www.thevenetianplaster.com.au/explained
Mille grazie for sharing your knowledge on these rather specific finishes! I think you'd be a great teacher, patient as you respond to all reactions, haha. May I ask why you opted for tadelakt for the walls instead of marmerino? Is it simply because you prefer its finish in this specific project? I lived with the conception that marmorino would be more waterproof because of the marble dust. Oh and the music is really pleasant. (:
Hello my friend. Thanks for your comment! I used Tadelakt because I like the finish after applying water base polyurethane sealer. I’ve tried marmorino with 2pack sealer but leave strike marks and “burns” the product removing its shine finish. Some people would use different kinds of natural wax to improve water resistance but they don’t last long, with modern shower gels and hair products it damages rather quick, hence-why I chose polyurethane sealer for shower walls 😉. I hope I could help with your question. Have a nice day and thanks again
Hi Saren, thanks for your comment! You are wright and wrong at the same time! 😉 This is not Venetian Plaster, it should be called Moroccan Plaster. However, you are right, this is not the original 10mm thick solid plaster used over timber or river rocks as per ancient times. Now we use plasterboard which is 12mm thick
@@venetianplaster no its not my man, its a venetian plaster tadelakt style. yes this fake tadelakt is hydraulic lime like the orignal, but the orignal doesnt have marble dust and additives mixed to it. no the original is not used over plasterboard or wood. it needs to be a lime render coat and then 8-10mm thick tadelakt on top. The italians and germans jumped on the tadelakt name and called it tadelakt. its nothing in anyway shape or form a representation of the original. what i love about the real is the fissures and little cracks all over the surface and the smooth and beautiful shiny and feels like skin (no marmorino chatter lines or pin holes) surface. Also real tadelakt is a render (almost like a sand and cement weight) consistency a fake is a marmorino consistency (a thin frail lime coats).
Your point is pretty much my point as well. Before I keep writing, I have to say that I am a painter decorator who has used lime base products since 2002. I am not a chemist to know the exact composition of materials but I never said Tadelakt has marble dust in it, that’s Marmorino, Grassello and others high polished finishes. I am an applicator who name the products from what companies name them and follow the instructions. Not many things nowadays are the same as before, not even paint itself. Materials change and improve to adapt to new times and new bulding regulations. I would love to hear where you come from and what’s your knowledge and experience with this products. This is a big community where people can learn and share. No need to get rude with nasty comments if you believe otherwise. Thanks!
Hi there! Thanks for your comment. I am afraid no, I made a sample out of timber so the client could see the finish product over corners in their house. Thanks for your comment 😉👍
awesome man... what a finish. im very new to the game , but have a bathroon and feature wall booked in soon .. which products would be suitable for the bathroom mate ? (im going to insist they have a shower liner)
Thanks for your comment mate! I really appreciated. For wet areas make sure to use a polyurethane sealer once you finish the application. Microcement is the best product for it. Also Tadelakt is the natural option for polished plaster. Check on my channel a bathroom reno i did and I show this product and finished. Cheers
@@venetianplaster cheers man. I've only been using marmorino and istinto tbh , im heading up north to go on the Novacolour venetian AND floor to ceiling course which is for the wet areas 🙏 how is paint over plaster board safer than say 3 coats of marmorino with a sealer ?
@@geordie-drywall sorry but I’m not sure I understand your question? Courses are okay, the problem I see is that they don’t teach based on real escenario, like working around power points and tight corners. Instead, they have you on a comfortable position, working on a piece of timber which you can actually move around as you please 😅. Still, is pretty cool to be able to “play” with different tools and products to get a first feeling for them. 👍
So basically after tons of videos I feel like I could accomplish this but have no idea what exactly to buy product wise for all the steps. Same for adding the color...etc
@@mimihaus1984 Hi, I am located in Australia and some of the construction suppliers shops sell Venetian plaster. Your best option would be online search in your area. Venetian plaster is known as Marmorino. Is originally from Italy, where you can find many companies which sell online or have suppliers in different countries. San Marco, Decora Italia design, Giorgio Graesan are some of the brands. Hope I could help. Cheers
I've been a plasterer for 15 years, I'd love to add this on the list for customers wanting this but never done it before, is there a course I can go do to at least have a go??
How would you go about repairing one section of a polished plaster wall? Would you have to re do the whole wall or can a local colour matched repair be done?
Hi mate, it is very difficult to repair an area and make it non visible. Pretty much like a touching up metallic paint on a car, you need to re do the whole wall. However, depending on the colour it will be less noticeable (light colours, easier to fix)
Makes sense mate, I run a surface repair company in London, we recently had an enquiry to repair a water damaged polished plaster wall in a high end retail store. I have been exploring potential solutions but it’s not looking good, I wonder if sealing the wall with an impregnating sealer then touching up or air brushing the discoloured area with paint would work.
@@CN-kf1me water damage is never good. Most likely it will need to be re done. Even-though I am located in Australia, I know someone who could do the job in London. Let me know if you need his details. He’s been working with solid and polished plaster for a long time and knows the trade. Good luck buddy! All the best 👍
Hi there :) Beautiful job! My questions is how did you treat the existing tiles? I see you scraped them out, then sanded them (can you please share tips on what grids did you use and anything tricky in the process… all advices appreciated). Then did you treat the tiles with any bonding agent before applying the plaster and micro-cement - if yes what kind? How did you transition between the plastered walls and microcement? Any cracking in the corners so far? What sis you do to ensure water doesn’t go under the microcement around the drain - any tips about that? A million questions, but the devil is in charge hose details. Appreciate you!
Hi mate, first of all thanks for your comments and your questions. Happy to tell you the way I do it even though I have used multiple different products from different brands. I don't get any extra support from any brand so my advice is pure haha. 😅 First of all, I always sand the tiles to scratch the surface so the primer stick into it, then clean them with a cloth and some Metho or Thinners to remove any dust. I use a good quality water base acrylic sealer over the tiles and let it dry for a day. Then the area is ready to be treated like any other wall basically. I apply 2 coats of sealer with grit (it creates the texture of a 80 grit sand paper. The size of the grit will determine the thickness of the product, usually 2-3 mm. I did the same process on the floor. The transition between Tadelakt and micro is not a problem. I finished the walls first, then start the micro cement. Once the micro is finish, create a "bridge" between the two making a small "grout" so the silicone can adhere properly so any water pooling on the corners doesn't get into wall or floor. So far my other bathroom at home was finished 4 years ago and still no problems at all. Hope I did answer all your questions and thanks again. 😉
Sorry to hear that, I created a full online course with more info and myself talking at the camera 😅. Hopefully I get better at it cause it was a terrifying experience. Check it out and let me know what you think. Cheers
Glad to see that someone recognize the difference 😉. It is Tadelakt mate, in powder form mixed with water. Venetian plaster turned out to be a pretty good marketing sales point
Same tint as acrylic paint, easy. Just head to your paint shop and ask for it. Remember that doesn’t need too much, usually 1-2ml per kg of product for light colours is enough!
Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it 👍. It holds the heat very well, better than paint. I have done many fireplaces and no problems. Thanks!
Hi, the product needs to be dry to burnish it, however it does need to be compressed while is wet, otherwise it won't burnish after. The drying process happens quick due of using very small amounts of product. I found working on small areas is best, so I can compress over and over again the product I just applied, making sure is ready for burnishing. Hope it helps!
@@venetianplaster thank you for the tip, apreciated, 👍👍last question here.... 😭 if i compress when is still wet, i am afraid that the pattern would disappear. it doesnt matter?
No mate, compressing and burnishing has nothing to do. The patter is created when we applied the product. Try with long strokes and short strokes to see the difference once finish. Therefore, shorter strokes with small amounts of material are helpful when we have to work around small areas like, light switches, above or below window frames, etc.. an uniform patter is more pleasant to the eye. Start small, then go big mate! Keep me posted with your progress and maybe share some pictures. Cheers
@@venetianplaster thanks so much! one of problem was... i chose marmorino <naturale>, it has some kinda sand it it, evey time i make pattern, it has scratch by sand, this time i bought high gloss stucco, i did 2 coat of base coat and waiting to dry, once it dried, i will do light sanding base coat and give it a go! i will let you know! thanks a lot!
2 coats of quartz, 2 base coats applied wet over wet? Complete dry and 2 top coats ? Did I follow this correct I’ve watched multiple times. From start to finish how many days was this ?
Total 3 days. Day 1: Sand, primer and base coat Day2: 3 top coats and burnishing Day3: Waxing 😉👍 You were spot on! Thanks for commenting mate, it really helps
This tutorial is excellent, it provides the actual steps involved in doing Venetian Plastering, which is a lot of work. The wall is beautifully done, THANK YOU!!
Hi Victor, there were around 20 square meters. Sorry but I don’t comment on total cost “money wise” please understand this is a private residence. What I can tell you is that working on a staircase complicates things, scaffold was needed and it took me a total of 5 days to complete, around 38h of labour and 1.000km of driving distance from home to the job site. Materials were close to $900 AUD price can vary a lot when you start changing these factors. I hope my answer was helpful. Cheers
Definitely NO. For large areas you will need help. One persone applying the product and a second one compressing and burnishing. You could have up to 3 people working on one wall, but each has one job. Applying Compressing Burnishing If there are two people applying the product, you will get different pattern and it will show up. Hope I could help.
Thanks again mate, all I wanna see is more people learning about it, specially the ones paying, the clients. Too many cowboys using the term Venetian plaster to overcharge for basic products. I have seen it so many times. Using these platforms to share my knowledge 😉💪. Keep up with the good work and give it a try mate! Cheers
Hi, thanks for making this video. ! It's not uncommon for Vienna plaster to stain when it comes into contact with oil or lotion. Do you have some tips for touching up?
Cuanto tiempo se deja de secado entre capas ? O se puede aplicar inmediatamente la segunda capa después de finalizar la primer capa espero tu respuesta gracias
Normalmente un par de horas es suficiente, teniendo en cuenta condiciones normales (25grados 60% humedad) Seca muy rápido porque se utiliza muy poco material. Gracias por tu comentario.
Interesantna asocijacija na neme filmove iz doba Carlija Caplina . Ipak ovakvi sajtovi bi trebalo da imaju i neku edukativnu kategoriju , trebali bi i videti i razumeti pojedine faze rada i alate . Ovako je cisto gubljenje vremena .
Žao mi je što se tako osećate, siguran sam da je vaše vreme veoma dragoceno. Međutim, trebali biste znati da ovo nije tutorial video. Molimo provjerite moj kanal ako želite vidjeti strmo po strmo sa opširnijim objašnjenjima.
Thank you 😉. You should watch my video of How to apply Venetian Plater step by step, and give it a try 👍 I’ve seen your work and you got it on you 😉. Thanks again for your support, it helps a lot.
Hi!! I have created a free online course for those of you interested about the full application of Venetian Plaster. I would highly appreciate if you could help with a positive review on Google and RU-vid. Here are the links: Online course: ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D Google: g.page/r/CbY5bcYAfkfqEB0/review Please let me know in the comments if you enjoyed the course! Thanks
Could this be done on kitchen counters? If so, would you seal it with polyurethane or beeswax? I'm wanting to try this but I'm afraid frequent cleaning would cause issues if I used beeswax.
Hi Hailey, thanks for your comment. No, I would not use this finish for a kitchen. The abrassives cleaning products would damage the wax and then the actual product. For kitchens benches you should use a water-base polyurethane sealer. However, marmorino stucco plaster (likes this table) “burns” and fades with the polyurethane sealer. So you are better off trying Microcement which can handle everything, its even design for floors. Hope it helps! Thanks for your support 👍
Thanks for your comment @lildenac, the answer is: the exact same process, sanding and priming being the very first steps. In case of new gyprock plaster sheets or solid plaster, then there is no need for sanding.
Hi!! I have created a free online course for those of you interested about the full application of Venetian Plaster. I would highly appreciate if you could help with a positive review on Google and RU-vid. Here are the links: Online course: ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D Google: g.page/r/CbY5bcYAfkfqEB0/review Please let me know in the comments if you enjoyed the course! Thanks
ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D I have created a free online course for those of you interested in knowing more about the full application of Venetian Plaster. Happy 2024!!
Hi I have a quick question for you I was wondering about using this technique for outside places and even a swimming pool sides so: Is there a pigment that would resist water and ultimately the UV too for a pool the pool wall will be rendered with hydraulic lime mix, then I wanted to add colour in a Venetian plaster style probably not possible but I want a natural rock wall pool with areas of colour and different textures mixed in? Thanks in advance.
Hi!! I have created a free online course for those of you interested about the full application of Venetian Plaster. I would highly appreciate if you could help with a positive review on Google and RU-vid. Here are the links: Online course: ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D Google: g.page/r/CbY5bcYAfkfqEB0/review Please let me know in the comments if you enjoyed the course! Thanks
Cool! anyway, here is the recipie for brownies! 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter 2 cups granulated sugar 4 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped nuts (optional) Instructions: Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C) and grease a 9x13-inch baking pan. In a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in the sugar, eggs, and vanilla extract until well combined. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt. Gradually add this dry mixture to the wet ingredients, stirring until just combined. If desired, fold in the chopped nuts into the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan, spreading it evenly. Bake in the preheated oven for approximately 30-35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs (not wet batter). Allow the brownies to cool completely in the pan before cutting into squares. Enjoy your homemade brownies!
Hi!! I have created a free online course for those of you interested about the full application of Venetian Plaster. I would highly appreciate if you could help with a positive review on Google and RU-vid. Here are the links: Online course: ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D Google: g.page/r/CbY5bcYAfkfqEB0/review Please let me know in the comments if you enjoyed the course! Thanks
Hi there, thanks for your comment. I have walls with Venetian plaster at home which were done 5 years ago and I never added more wax since I made them. However, maybe every 2-3 years in case you see it fading. Sun exposure will accelerate the process for sure.
Hi!! I have created a free online course for those of you interested about the full application of Venetian Plaster. I would highly appreciate if you could help with a positive review on Google and RU-vid. Here are the links: Online course: ru-vid.com/group/PLrRsD8ciBC9yTIBnR8Wz28GBhMDbpkZ8D Google: g.page/r/CbY5bcYAfkfqEB0/review Please let me know in the comments if you enjoyed the course! Thanks