Is not the alternator or battery issue i have 2020 outlander sport my self, I will be posting a video identifying the issue soon, which worked for me and i believe is the común defects as well hope it works out for you guys as well .
Why the heck would you upload this video if you don't have a solution?? I am sitters here strander in my car hoping to fidn a fix. Wasted time watching your video
Similar on my 2012 RVR. Had to do some fiddling with booster cables to make connection. Basically your engine computer runs on less than 12 volts. This because your voltage will drop below 12 virtually every time you start it. So the computer is regulated to use 5 (5 I think) reference volts to read it's sensors. When cranking a weak battery pulls voltage below the computers set sensor reference voltage many false error codes can be generated. I installed a voltage monitor ($12 on AMAZON). My car was only charging when I would run extra accessories. It's complicated but I understand how this can be normal on some vehicles. I'm going to try a new battery, it's cheaper than paying a dealer to put it on their computer where there's a 90% probability they'll diagnose it incorrectly anyway.
It’s definitely the battery. I’m having this problem right now. I just jump started my car and it did start but I tried to start it on its own and it wouldn’t start. So I definitely recommend getting a new battery or going to AutoZone or advance auto parts and charging the battery that you have.
When I jumped it my check engine light came on and went to mechanic they restarted my computer cuz my car won't go over 20 and said it was my starter but as it goes on I'm thinking it has to do with the wires on the because I keep jumping in that don't work
My Mitsubishi 2020 did that to me I was so upset I tapped on it and sit in the car for a minute and push the button and it started I think it has something to do with the wires on the battery
When you ever get a battery problem put the jumper cable to the car ground and the other to the power side ! That will start the car instantly ! Also buy a scanner 30 dollars will tell you what’s wrong !
The same exact thing just happened to my wife's Outlander. Would not crank over and got the ASC service needed and Transmission Overheating messages also. Turned out the issue was the battery....changed it and everything working perfectly....all messages disappeared and car running perfectly. All the messages were false alerts created due to cranking over with a weak battery. All the lights & accessories worked fine, but it just didn't have enough juice to turn the car on. Took me 10 mins to change the battery and fix the problem.
I'm not sure if you updated this or not, but there's a few things it'll do this. The fuse amp behind the positive terminal is blown and or the inline wire that comes off the positive terminal is loose or your ground wire/negative terminal wire coming off the battery is obstructed in some way.
I ran into the dreaded "Drive Error" but my pump had been running for at least 6 years, so I guess were lucky that way. Of course this happened right when I was selling my house, so I was just needing a quick fix. Since the motor turned freely without any noises, I bought the drive controller off Amazon costing $650 (Hayward SPX3400DR Motor Drive with Digital Control Interface Replacement for Hayward SP3400VSP Series Pump), and found some very good you tube videos on replacing the drive unit. This fixed the problem and the pump runs fine now with the new controller - for now anyway. I was able to change it out without even moving the pump. Most people say that you need to disconnect the pump and turn it over, but I've been working on cars my whole life, so screwing and unscrewing bolts I can't see or hardly reach is kinda normal for me. One very important point I will mention that I havent seen anywhere else is that the bolts on the original drive were self-tapping and the bolts that came with teh replacement are just standard. When I trierd to use the "new" replacement bolts, it was almost impossible to seat the bolts on the pump. I believe that the bolts are longer than the pre-tapped portion of the drive unit. So, USE SELF-TAPPING BOLTS with the new drive unit and save yourself some serious frustration.
I had exactly the same problem. Bottomline: It is the battery. It tested 10V when it failed to start, it should give 12V. Changed it and it started immediately.
Having the same issue now.. mine is a 2011-2012 wondering if it’s worth trying to replace the drive with it being this old. Probably should just get a whole new pump
Who knows the jackass made us watch your dad going to video and didn't even tell us what it took to fix it for any of us out here just having the same problem which is the whole point of coming and watching these videos
A problem with a tail light being burnt can cause the vehicule to not start as you need the foot on the brake to start and a control unit sees a burnt out tail light and won't let it start. Allthought all those errors are indicating another issue.
Intermittent starting problem, loud click but starting motor not spinning (new battery, removed starting motor, carbon brush cleaned & checked okay). Tested starter assy directly to battery several times, spins okay each time. Reinstall starter assy, still not spinning on first starting attempt. Tried several times, finally run. No conclusion, still same. Scanned the ecu...... strange... diagnostic error code appeared. Forgot the error number, but the descrjption was a short in tail light....need to check the tail light when happen again.
Im having this problem now, i have a 2010 galant. Like in the video, has power but is making this weird noise...not like flat battery noise...just a different noise! so we changed battery inside key fob, and still wouldn't start, then we thort it was the battery. So bought a new battery, but still wouldnt start. Checked relays thoes are fine. Just not sure why its not working...my wife moved it the morning of and it was fine, went to go start it and still wouldn't start.
It's not defective it just cheaply made and doesn't have all the luxuries you are used to...iv been using this one for a bit and works just fine. Easily done on handed in a stand...
My daughter just bought a 2017 Jeep compass and there is a push start problem as well and it is because the controls wires fuses all of that are underneath the front wheel driver's side which is a very stupid place and if they get dirty then that becomes an issue so not sure where the Mitsubishi outlander sports are but you might want to check to see if maybe it is under the driver side location by the front wheel if so you got to clean that and keep it clean
