This happened unexpectedly and without any sort of warning. Leaving my family completely stranded at an isolated park. Back on Nov. 15, 2015 around 5:40pm
The same exact thing just happened to my wife's Outlander. Would not crank over and got the ASC service needed and Transmission Overheating messages also. Turned out the issue was the battery....changed it and everything working perfectly....all messages disappeared and car running perfectly. All the messages were false alerts created due to cranking over with a weak battery. All the lights & accessories worked fine, but it just didn't have enough juice to turn the car on. Took me 10 mins to change the battery and fix the problem.
My 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport had the same problem. Hired a mobile mechanic. Before the mechanic came I replaced the vehicle battery and FOB battery. Once he got there he determined that it was the ASC relay responsible for the U0100 code. The ASC relay is the large high amperage relay located in the fuse box under the hood and is approximately 2" x 2" and originally grey in color. One for the radiator fans and one for the ASC. Once the ASC relay was replaced, communication was reestablished and the U0100 code went away as well as the "ASC system service required" and the "engine overheating" lights and he could start the vehicle. The relay cost about $30 bucks. There are no codes now and the vehicle starts every time.
John, Please search the web for Mitsubishi Outlander Transmission Problems/defects. You will have an eye opener on the social media. In 2016 Mitsubishi recalled 80,000 vehicles to replace the entire transmission free of cost. You will get lots of information to back your case. In 2011 Mitsubishi recalled over 220000 Outlander to replace the fuel pump and undisclosed numbers of vehicles where they replaced the CVT.
I'm not sure if you updated this or not, but there's a few things it'll do this. The fuse amp behind the positive terminal is blown and or the inline wire that comes off the positive terminal is loose or your ground wire/negative terminal wire coming off the battery is obstructed in some way.
Nicholas Floyd will a 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer evolution mr will do the same Because my 07 Mitsubishi raider is good not battery dead so will a 2013 Lancer evolution will have issues
Solution!!!!!! I had this very problem after testing everything on the vehicle (battery, starter, alternator, fuses, relays) and was completely baffled. The dealer I got it from must had been confused too because they had put a new starter, battery, and positive lead fuse panel on it before I got it.. I tried jumping and it didn't do anything. I didn't get the Transmission Error code like this video but instead Service Engine Soon and wouldn't start would just click. The problem was one of the battery terminals on the positive to the battery. It's the bigger single terminal by the gray fuse panel that leads to the main positive on the battery. The heat had caused it to expand where you mash it down on the wire and wasn't getting good contact. Mashed it real good with vise grips and BAM it starts everytime plus the "Service Engine Soon" instantly disappeared. Idk if that'll solve your problem but it worked for mine.
I figure it to be the battery. Most of the electrons have or need at least 11.8 volts to function properly. Car will not turn over lower than 11.5 I tried once. When starting the car put your foot on the brake first then press the start. No need to activate ACC key on function first like this guy does in the video. Brake first start second. If you want to listen to the radio only then leave your foot off the brake and press the start button once and you get the ACC amber light. Read your instruction manual.
Check to find out where your push start wires fuses relays whatever controls are they're most likely on the driver side front tire location you have to clean all that garbage off if there's any dirt or anything around there. My daughter has a problem on a 2017 Jeep compass and that was the problem so I'm not sure if Mitsubishi outlander has the same issues but it doesn't hurt to check
I've noticed on my '07 Mitsubishi Outlander, that it only gets about 30 mos per battery. Don't know why, but on average, I have to put in a New Battery every 30 mos. regardless of driving distance. Same thing. "Clicking" and won't start . . . New Batter and no problems for another 30 mos. Other than that, I've had no problems with my car. I love it. 185K miles.
@@joncpreaching had Alt. Ck'd at a couple AutoZones & a Belle Tire. Ck'd good. Having checked with a couple autotecs, they say that the Mitsubishi computer will randomly do a system check. Even if the car is turned off and the key is gone
@@joncpreaching I didn't have any code problems like this guy. My problem was only the battery. Forunately, the batteries I buy had warranty so I've actually only really paid for 1 battery.
The problem is that somebody might have broken your car and did a anti-theft immobilizer lock out and that means that a car alarm went off when somebody broke in the car and it blocked out the engine to prevent the criminal to turn it on even though it is the correct keys in there you have to take it to the Mitsubishi dealer to get that fixed
I had the same issue but the vehicle sat for 4 days in my garage and then wouldn't start. No errors or warnings on the dash. I charged the battery to full but it still wouldn't start. Finally I filled the tank with premium fuel and pumped the crap out of the gas and it started(very Roughly). Possible water in the fuel lines, possible fuel pump issue. Not chancing it and taking it to the mechanics shop for full maintenance before i get a costly towing bill.
Same thing that happen to me , I had the car for 10 days . I went on a trip like a hour and a half from my house , and I was stranded with my disables uncle and kids. Its at dealer now.
I had exactly the same problem. Bottomline: It is the battery. It tested 10V when it failed to start, it should give 12V. Changed it and it started immediately.
Same thing happened to me on my 2016 Mitsubishi outlander while driving. Will take it to the dealership, a couple of recalls pertaining to this issue came out this year 2017. Don't try to figure out the problem yourself because if it's a recall issue the dealership will fix it for free. Best advice is to get a professional involved free of charge.
80,000 vehicles have been recalled.... Problem with Outlander is from inception. Mine 2011 had the same issue with the entire fuel Pump assembly. I had to take a legal action on Mitsubishi.
My daughter just bought a 2017 Jeep compass and there is a push start problem as well and it is because the controls wires fuses all of that are underneath the front wheel driver's side which is a very stupid place and if they get dirty then that becomes an issue so not sure where the Mitsubishi outlander sports are but you might want to check to see if maybe it is under the driver side location by the front wheel if so you got to clean that and keep it clean
I have been having the same issue on and off for a few years. We replaced the battery a year and a half ago and seemed to be better. Then it would just chug a big before finally starting when I would leave from work once every few weeks and then it would be fine. Had the battery tested 6 months ago and they said it was still good (only a year old at that time). Still kept having the issue and got worse last month. 2 weeks ago I started it after vacation and it died right after starting and took 4 or 5 attempts before it finally started. So I took it to get an oil change and told him about the issue. He checked the battery again and it was bad this time so it was replaced (luckily still under warranty) 1 week and 2 days later I try to start my car at work and it chugs again and takes 2 or 3 tries to finally start it. I received the safety recall notice about the flange on the drive belt automatic sensor cracking and could cause the alternator to not charge the battery (plus some other more serious issues). That’s getting done today and I’m hoping that fixes this weird issue although the dealership seems skeptical and wants me to spend $220 on a fuel system flush. Will see how this one goes...
chelsey lilley sounds exactly like my problem on a 2011 and the service light has been going on and off for days stay off more then on but I took it to get checked and error codeP1590 .. suposable this what it means... i have not a clue what to do now hence why im on youtube... my( Wikipedia) lol.... TCM to ECM communication error in torque reduction request
Kayla, Mitsubishi Dealer will not tell you the actual problem. Search the Internet Just type MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER TRANSMISSION PROBLES... YOU WILL GET ENOUGH EVIDENCE ON THIS. SINCE 2011 THEY HAVE BEEN RECALLING THE VEHICLES FOR FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT AND TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENTS. DURING 2016 MITSUBISHI RECALLED 80,000 VEHICLES TO REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION FREE OF COST.
i had this issue with my wives 2011 outlander sport and i was almost sure it was the starter due to the symptoms. the push start didn't turn on the engine but it turned on everything else. all electronics were on and working fine (ac, lights, stereo) so i thought theres now way it could be the battery because of that but after speaking to a mitsubishi guy, i had my doubts because he said the battery might hold charge and power the electronics but might not have enough amps to kickstart the starter. he told me to see if my headlights were dim and they kinda were. long story short, it was the battery. the battery was working but the amp output was too low to trigger the starter. good luck!
Same thing happened to me but I'm used to it I'll just turn it.off again and wait for few minutes till it turns on again I think thats the problem with push button
This just happened to me this weekend. What happens is when the key fob battery runs too low, the signal is not strong enough and the car only receives a partial signal. This triggers the security electronic lock out, as the car thinks someone is trying to break in. Switching the battery in the fob fixed the problem. The "Service Engine Soon" light stayed on for about a day, but eventually reset and stayed off.
Paul Hagon this just happened to me now and ive changed the key fob battery, however. The car is still not turning on (I'm currently at the airport car park). Wha would you suggest I do leave it for an hour and try again ?
@@lenoirjordan757 This is an inherent problem in Mitsubishi Outlander since 2011. Search the Internet you will find so much information by Just typing "Mitsubishi Transmission Problem" They have recalled 80,000 vehicles in 2016 to replace the CVT/Transmission. in 2011 they recalled over 200000 vehicles with Fuel Pump replacement and undisclosed numbers of Transmission. You can find the information on Ministry of Transportation U.S.A web portal.
Those Mitsubishi batteries are crappy. I replaced mine under warranty. Then, soon after replaced it again. Cold weather was likely an issue. Like you though, I had that happen to me a few times. I had to carry around a booster. It won’t hold a charge with the car off.
You might have driven it hard while it was overloaded on a hot day in addition to the dead battery which is the ticking noise. Change your transmission fluid, transmission filter & get a tune up. Hopefully you won't need a new computer.
anything can go with this model, My 2013 had a somewhat similar issue but it gave me a message in the center display when my immobilizer system went out $800 at mitsu dealership to fix
Im having this problem now, i have a 2010 galant. Like in the video, has power but is making this weird noise...not like flat battery noise...just a different noise! so we changed battery inside key fob, and still wouldn't start, then we thort it was the battery. So bought a new battery, but still wouldnt start. Checked relays thoes are fine. Just not sure why its not working...my wife moved it the morning of and it was fine, went to go start it and still wouldn't start.
Just by another car... from the beginning I didn’t want to buy this car but my husband bought anyways... I told him to buy a Toyota and he didn’t listen to me 🤷♀️
The Problem is with the entire transmission/CVT During 2016 Mitsubishi recalled 80,000 vehicles to replace the faulty transmission. You can find the information on the web, just type MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. Since 2011 Mitsubishi is selling a defective vehicle.
Is not the alternator or battery issue i have 2020 outlander sport my self, I will be posting a video identifying the issue soon, which worked for me and i believe is the común defects as well hope it works out for you guys as well .
Similar on my 2012 RVR. Had to do some fiddling with booster cables to make connection. Basically your engine computer runs on less than 12 volts. This because your voltage will drop below 12 virtually every time you start it. So the computer is regulated to use 5 (5 I think) reference volts to read it's sensors. When cranking a weak battery pulls voltage below the computers set sensor reference voltage many false error codes can be generated. I installed a voltage monitor ($12 on AMAZON). My car was only charging when I would run extra accessories. It's complicated but I understand how this can be normal on some vehicles. I'm going to try a new battery, it's cheaper than paying a dealer to put it on their computer where there's a 90% probability they'll diagnose it incorrectly anyway.
Happened to my 2013 Outlander sport with push start yesterday. Battery read at 9.8V. To eliminate that was only from me attempting to start it on several times in succession, hooked it to my charger, got it back to 14.1, my car started. Let it run for about 25 min, turned it off, wouldn’t start and it was back down to 9ish volts. Bought and installed a new battery, starts and runs fine ever since. My service engine light came on after I charged the battery old battery and got it running, but it cleared on its own with the install of new. Since this thread is old, up this current situation helps. I did call my local Mitsubishi dealer mechanic this morning before I had a chance to check the battery, and he stated the ASC error should have nothing to do with the engine not turning over. Basically, my battery was starting to not hold a charge and one bad cell could be enough to not start turn the engine.
Kayla, Mitsubishi Dealer will not tell you the actual problem. Search the Internet Just type MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER TRANSMISSION PROBLES... YOU WILL GET ENOUGH EVIDENCE ON THIS. SINCE 2011 THEY HAVE BEEN RECALLING THE VEHICLES FOR FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT AND TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENTS. DURING 2016 MITSUBISHI RECALLED 80,000 VEHICLES TO REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION FREE OF COST.
J'ai eu ce problème la semaine passée , le même son, lumières qui ''flicotte'' dans le tableau de bord, j'ai changé la batterie, tout est ok. ( j'avais remarqué dans les semaines précédentes, qu'il y avait un odeur d'essence au premier démarage de la journée, depuis que les températures descendaient en dessous de zéro. J'habite au Quebec. Contente que ce soit arrivé durant le redoux, et pas à -20 ! merci pour tout ceux qui ont commenté, j'ai acheter une batterie, changer moi même . Sauvé beaucoup de sous!
hi.3 weeks ago my car dont start something appear on the dashboard saying immobilizer service required i bring to the dealerrhey changed the battery on the key fob and today dnt start again ill wait 1hr and i try to start it works i own mitsubishi rvr 2016...
Initially I considered the battery. Replaced it but still nothing. Then i thought maybe The relay. The local dealership gave me another one and no dice. Then I attempted to short between the poles on the starter. If you have a long metal bar of some sort you can get in between the holes in the front of the plastic manifold and you can see the starter. You will have to flip back the plastic cover on the positive terminal and then you can short it out. Mine would spark but it wouldn't turn over. I got it towed and yanked the starter out. It's a big pain but not to horrible. You will need to remove the front airdam. Battery. Top engine cover. Bottom plastic plate underneath engine. There are several brackets underneath you will need to remove with a 12mm socket and to make it easier you can remove the wire brackets on left and right of engine to het your hands in. I removed the two starter bolts blind from underneath the car. It's a tight fit. But you can do it without removing the manifold. I got the starter tested and it wasn't any good. Stealership wanted 800$ So I ordered one on rockauto for 180
Mitsubishi OUtlander has a manufacturing defect with the fuel pump and the transmission since 2011.... search the internet, just type MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS... You will have an eye opener.
The 12V battery dying has caused this. Just needs a jump start. The 12V battery with hybrid/electric cars are more likely to fail due to not being used as much in pure fuel. So you need to run the car regularly.
When you try to start battery and all lights come out fine . The starter or ignition is also cranking but no fuel reaching the cylinder for combustion. It's simple fuel is not reaching the firing point . ..thats wjat I had similar problem . This usually happens if we keep changing fuels grades and which leaves dust and residue in the fuel tank and eventually jamming the fuel line. Like I said the fuel pumping motor also could have gone bad . ...please share wht the mechanics have yo say ..hope
Please read my comments above, This model has multi issues, Faulty fuel pump, faulty transmission, they replaced free of cost. During 2011 which was my model I had the same issues, My entire engine collapsed, I took Mitsubishi to court and won the legal battle after 3 years. during 2016 Mitsubishi recalled 80,000 vehicles for free replacement of the CVT. Check the internet you will get enough complaints and information to substantiate your case , if u wish to take a legal recourse.
In having the same issue with no starting and clicking coming from the fuse box. I open the hood and reposition the battery and touch the wires and eventually I can get it to start. But its becoming a real pain.
First time they said battery. Second time was about to tell me the same thing, told them it was new, left it left night and couldn't give me an answer just, "if it happens again bring it back." Third time I got someone to jump the battery, took a picture, drove it to the dealership, waited for an hour and they still could not give me an answer. Now I don't leave the Keys in the ignition. So far no problems.
When you ever get a battery problem put the jumper cable to the car ground and the other to the power side ! That will start the car instantly ! Also buy a scanner 30 dollars will tell you what’s wrong !
My car is literally doing this rn. I am furious. Going to get a new battery and see if it helps. Usually if someone jumps me off I’m good and then a few days later it does the same thing.
So I have a 2014 Outlander battery died on me jump started car turned on once I took cables off it died right away. Went and got a new battery at Autozone when I put the battery in the car worked fine everything turned on but the radio. I figured it messed with the programming somehow check engine codes 1040 and 1041 came on. When I drive the car it won’t go higher than 20mph. Any ideas how to fix it??
The problem is with the entire CVT/Transmission since 2011 till as late as 2016. Just look for information by just typing "MISTSUBISHI OUTLANDER TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. YOU WILL BE ASTONISHED ... in 2016 Mitsubishi recalled 80000 vehicles for transmission replacement. I had to take them to the court and was able to prove it with the help from Social Media.
If you try to start a car about 3 times the batery no longer have enough charge to start the engine, some cars computer can tell you that and they know theres not enough so the car computer wont even try if you want. Learn this... the thing that most suck a car baterry energy is the starting engine process, if it fails about 2 times... it may never start after that unless you get a good new baterry or a well charged one!
Asx 201 Same thing happened to my car. It was around 14 days after it last service (only done around 50miles sins it duo to lockdown here). The car battery is around 1-2 years old. The car blows fuse 20a fuse (under the hood fuse number 22). All coolant lvls are ok. Oil and power steering lvls are ok. It was very cold when this happened (snow and ice) so drained the coolant and added new antifreeze in it. Change fuse and it started. Waited 20mins seem temp go up to normal lvl in the car and was like that fixed it out the car in to drive and car died and blow the fuse again. This replaced the fuse and brought out my spear key and got the car started and it been running for 20mins ( it driven it yet) when driving the same thing happend and engine dies and fuse blows.
When I jumped it my check engine light came on and went to mechanic they restarted my computer cuz my car won't go over 20 and said it was my starter but as it goes on I'm thinking it has to do with the wires on the because I keep jumping in that don't work
I own many car but I have most issue with Mitsubishi outlander and have so many issues (FCM, ACC). From what I read, is a software issue. It costs money just to update the software even though software is buggy. This is the last times I buy Mitsubishi car.
A problem with a tail light being burnt can cause the vehicule to not start as you need the foot on the brake to start and a control unit sees a burnt out tail light and won't let it start. Allthought all those errors are indicating another issue.
Intermittent starting problem, loud click but starting motor not spinning (new battery, removed starting motor, carbon brush cleaned & checked okay). Tested starter assy directly to battery several times, spins okay each time. Reinstall starter assy, still not spinning on first starting attempt. Tried several times, finally run. No conclusion, still same. Scanned the ecu...... strange... diagnostic error code appeared. Forgot the error number, but the descrjption was a short in tail light....need to check the tail light when happen again.
Mitsubishi Lancer 2008 DE Does exactly the same thing when the battery doesn't work properly. If it is not charging well it will do that sound 🔊. I solved that by buying a nee battery and of course a battery with hight reputation and service. It's not a big deal your car is doing good.
