Head Engine Builder at Robert Yates Racing Engines - Over 40 years ago, I began frequenting local race tracks around my hometown of Charlotte, NC including Charlotte Motor Speedway which ignited my interest in Automobiles and making Horsepower. I earned a degree in the GM Automotive Service Educational Program at CPCC and worked as a Dealership Technician which led me to my Career as a NASCAR Engine Builder and Jackman. I believe as long as you have a good attitude, anything can be accomplished. Tune in Every Monday at 7pm to my LIVE show "Racing Routes with Hamm" right here on #DHammiam. You'll meet a new NASCAR personality each week and learn their path, their stories, their racing routes. #RacingRoutes www.dhammiam.com & racingroutes.com
If my tractor has a 12 Volt coil that says on it "No external Resistor" does it start and run on 12 volts? My points have not burned up and my tractor is just like yours. The wire coming into the coil measures 12 Volts.
Those type of coils vary resistant based on heat as the tractor warms up. Basically running on 9 volts therefore easier on the points. Thanks for the question and watching 👍
I have a 1994 GMC Sierra and I was told that the older truck runs on high oil pressure readings. I installed a new oil pressure sensor and now my readings is around 40-60 , do I have to tighten it some more are what am I supposed to do? Thanks
This is funny seeing this clip. My daddy told me his whole life the production company bought out their cars for this move. (The were stock car racers on dirt track) they bought 6 cars for this movie. And him and his crew never got credit for one thing. Every time I watched this movie with my daddy. He goes there’s another one of our cars. All I’m saying is they didn’t get credit for this movie. Love every minute of it. But just wished my daddy and his crew got credits for it.
This is my favorite movie of all time we miss you Kenny lots of love to the whole cast this movie was so amazing in the day I’ll never forget them days
I have watched other videos and people use heat, lots of heat! to drive the pin out. I didn't really see what you did to get it out. Can you explain? Also, some folks are selling a harder pin to replace the original. My thoughts on that are that Ford Engineers would have rather you replace a soft pin every 15 years than tractor hard parts and so intentionally made the pin softer than what it rides against. So cool that you showed that "Farmer Smarts" with the pin reversal. Back in the 50 and 60s, you could turn the contact plate around on GM starter motors to get the Bendix working again (or just purchase a new starter).
I remember rebuilding starters on my Chevrolet engines and turning the solenoid contact. Makes it like new. I agree about your thoughts on the hardness, but it seems the pin takes the brunt of the work. It slides on the broader surface which seems to be what wears it out. The new pin will last my lifetime I’m sure. I was able to get it out by supporting the holder and punching it out. I’m thinking I didn’t have to use heat but the pin bore would probably expand more than the pin itself if heated so that makes sense. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Good stuff
That’s great insight! I haven’t had this problem but I’ll know to check this out as part of a diagnosis. I love the No BS old school video that actually helps people and not mining for subscribers. Thanks again, you have a new subscriber!
Thank you 😊 I learned from working flat rate as a dealership tech years ago not to over complicate diagnosis or it would cost me money/time. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. I’ve got another video about another issue I’ve had with this mower I’ll post eventually. Have a great week
Great video - clear and to the point. I have been told my master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. Would this require both the cylinder and the booster to be replaced?
Yes most likely. Definitely with the master cylinder leaking and the seals may be messed up from the fluid exposure in the booster as well. Thanks for commenting
Im having a similar issue. Only when i go up hills my 02 sensor voltage drops to 0.0 untill i level out or back off the thrrotle This also happens when i go heavy on the throttle. And throws a system too lean bank2 code It's got brand new o2 sensors new fuel regulator, new fuel filter. New upper intake gaskets My time advance is showing -24 at idle (even when distributor spark is goin straight to the diode) and goes over -30 when i rev it. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video. I was trying to get my 3930 bled, not having any luck (doing it wrong!) your video got me back on track and the tractor was running in 20 minutes.
What should my intake and exhaust lash be on my 454big block .030 over with aftermarket cam and what I believe are solid roller lifters Thanks in advance
I've had my d6b for over 20 years. Bush clearing and winching logs from hillsides best part about these old machines.. not one millennial either knows how to start her.. let alone put her on a transporter.. she safe as houses. We do all the work the modern fancy dozens start glitching at. Pulling scrub rollers.. benching hillside tracks.. whinching logs.. yep. I have manual draft arms with tilt blade.. but she gets it done.. with less fuel than these modern machines.. they are great machines. So glad to have grown up with clutches and brakes..
I got a 2018 ford expedition n it has oil sensor problems n i replacement the sensor now the low engine oil screen it just staying on what could be the cause
My 06 4.8 was pegged at 80 psi got a new sensor and there was 3 stores I checked all was over $50 but got it and replaced mine in about 15 minutes worked on the first try.
??????HELP!!!! I have a 3910 like yours, but mine does not have a seperator, just a filter. I have done everything as you said, but I can't get the system bleed. #1 difference is I filled the new filter with fuel, after several tries to bleed. Opening the filter bleed screw I still don't get fuel coming out, although I filled the new filter. I bleed the pump as you described. I cracked open the fittings on the injectors. Got some air out of two of them, never got much out of one. No luck starting. Started real good before I changed the fuel filter. HELP!!!
The only way to tell for sure is to install a manual gauge. Be sure to use the proper oil called for your vehicle. If the main bearings or cam bearings are worn, that would make oil pressure lower in most cases
this is the best video on the subject. I am needing to do this on my 2004 Avalanche (pressure gauge on dash pegs at "80" with key on engine off or engine running). I'm going to have to disconnect that fuel line too because I have large hands and thick arms. One thing I have not seen in any video is how to disconnect the electrical connector on it. Nowadays it seems that few are truly press and release, most seem to have some funky lock setup or hidden release.
@@dhammiam I managed to get mine swapped and back to working. Probably could not have done it without watching your video so thank you. I was pleasantly surprised that the electrical was just a pull on the tab and lift it over the hump style and very easy to remove
