I think I have to replace the fuse assembly because the shim is way too big and i cant even work the shim on there. How did you even get that shim on there, just your hands?
@@RaiJK3 the shim just fit. I'm not sure if there are different sizes, i just grabbed the one off the shelf at the parts store. But! I thought I made another video because I eventually removed the shim and just reshaped the connector with a couple of wrenches. I spent some time just using two adjustable wrenches to bend the connector back into it's original shape, and it worked.
@@samanthagaboo5610 i make it look more complicated than it is, but wanted to put this out there anyway in case it helps. Once you're looking at it, it's pretty easy to see where & how the parts fit back together.
So the little white tab that acts like a lever releasing the fluid can slide off and make it near impossible to light. The black tab controls the flame height and it does so by controlling the amount of fluid coming out via a gear near the valve. To the right is more and to the left is less. You can lift this black tab off the gear and rotate it to the left for more fluid or to the right for less. I believe you can also do this by pulling the trigger without the safety, thereby having the white tab push down on the black tab, and moving the black tab appropriately. However, the components are flimsy enough that over time things can move out of place and cause issues.
I had this problem with my 2016. Bought the dipressor the wrote off the van before i installed it. My 2019 is doing the same thing so I’m installing the part on it. Thanks for the how to
U have a roller inside door miss aligned or broken roller u have to take all covers from door,and take out brake light on that side,and there's a screw inside where light goes take it out,and slide front towards front of van take the sliding piece of cover and there's the roller mechanism maybe it's out of all gnment or or broken roller
On my van, it was the cable, it was frayed and getting caught inside of where it retracts into. I disconnected the cable and when engaged, it retracted out of the way. Then, I removed some of the fuses to see if the "slide door"indicator light would turn off but it doesn't. I did also replace the roller because the wheel was broken.
because ebay has destroyed it's own reputation and suspends sellers accounts to keep money for 3 weeks before releasing funds, so they build interest. ebay also just fired thousands of employees last week.
I just want to say, I bought from this man on etsy and yes, he only sells it on his etsy site because ebay has been such junk for sellers. It came in a small package in the mailbox and it is wonderful. There are many choices out there for vcm, support this guy, his product has been great. The resistance is changeable, so if your honda gets too warm it will still show on the dash and the vcm would come on as a precaution. Thanks. 2015 Odyssey here.
ohh man tell me about that spring lol mine is more complicated than your's as it also has a switch you need to push while pulling the trigger and that is where the spring goes but i had no idea first time i took one of these apart because i needed to harvest the piezo igniter to fix my favorite torch lighter, the piezo of the torch lighter however was still working but had a wire not long enough anymore that's why i needed the bbq one instead and i knew it was gonna be a pain opening it without some part flying off and me not knowing how to put it back together but i managed to figure out where each part goes just by trying to figure out the sequence of ignition and yup i found where the spring goes and got the thing working again after soldering on the piezo to the wire and resetting for a larger flame adjustment it was working as before with all the right internal parts in harmony gladly because it still had lot of butane left in it , so now i fixed both my lighter and the bbq wand
For my 2005 honda odyssey it doesn't seem to be working. I first put it on 82 ohms and the VCM is still kicking on. Live in Socal so temps currently are about 85-96 degrees F. Anyone know the sweet spot to keep the coolant sensor from preventing VCM from engaging? I've tried 82, 85, and 92 ohms with no success.
Thanks for making this video. We moved into our home almost 4 years ago and it has 3 of these backflow preventers (1 in the garage) and they spit out water when I shut the spigot down. WHY? I'm looking to take them off of replace the spigot all together.
I need to disable VCM on our 2010 Ody EX-L. I worked through a check engine light, VSA light on the dash and engine shudder this past week. All seems to be working now! I've read up on the evil VCM and want to disable it for good. I considered the options listed on OdyClub and Piloteers, but want to spend as little as possible since we are not in this Ody for the long run anymore, actively looking to trade it in. The DiPressor seems like a good solution for a good price. I considered the DIY route, as it is really cheap to do, but doing it that cheaply is permanent. @MN Murph and others that have tried the DiPressor, are you all still happy with it, meaning is it still doing its job at disabling VCM and keeping the evil ECO light at bay? Murph, definitely interested to hear how it is holding up with MN weather. We are in MA, so have snowy winters and roads treated with salt just like you guys. FYI, it looks like the eBay DiPressor seller is also selling it on Etsy.
Ya, it's holding up. If you read up on it you know it's a simple thing, so I'm thinking there's not much that can go wrong with it. It's fine through the winter in MN. Just reduce the ohms in the cold, and increase them going into Summer.
That’s what killed mine not to mention there was a tiny oil leak they caught my alternator on fire several weeks later and there’s barely 100,000 miles on the odyssey thousand 13😢
It’s DC voltage to the voltage rides around the outside perimeter so that thing Hass to be but tight on the perimeter you can’t just make a little mark connection it’s gotta be solid❤😊
I removed the overflow tank and other bolts to tilt the radiator back to reach the drain from above. Also I needed a special drain petcock tool because turning that thing was a 🤬. Use it with a stubby ratchet. Hope this helps anyone struggling.
Hey, Murph. Thanks for the video. Had to laugh at your process for finding this one as it was the exact same as mine. From the $90 sticker shock, the unimpressive looking quality of the mid priced ones that you still have to fiddle with, to searching for a cheap one on eBay and finding the Dipressor. Couple questions if you don't mind: It's still working well for you? And generally speaking, lower temps = lower resistance and higher temps = higher resistance?
Ya, you got it. It's warming up in MN now and the eco light came on once. (There's no jolt when it comes on like it used to before the dipressor though.)
Thanks for the video. Just installed mine. 82 ohms not cutting it for me. Summer is very hot in Charlotte. Going to try 92 next. 82: 3 4 5 85: 2 3 92: 2 4 98: 2 5 109: 3 4 118: 3 5
@@AnilSharma-fw2bs the original "VCMuzzler II" www.ebay.com/itm/352813149353 Has resistors for 68 ohms 100 ohms 120 ohms 150 ohms So 118 might not be ENOUGH even.
The only problem I saw in my 2012 crosstour, was I've seen mine used oil, one time so far. Otherwise, I had no other problems, so I decided to buy this one, b4 I have problems like others have had. Delivered today, but other parts are coming, so I'll wait a few days longer and do it all at once. I ended up using 98 ohms on the dip switches....no more VCM!
Hello MN Murph, Appreciate your vlog on this VCM muzzler. Most Honda owners nightmare who have a VCM vehicle. Can you provide an update since it was installed so viewers can get an idea how well the DiPressor works. Did it stop the oil burning or oil loss? Did the Eco light ever rear it’s ugly head ever? Did you ever had to adjust the VCM to a higher than 82 Ohms? Do you live in a state with cold winters and hot summers? Thanks!
Update, a year or two later, it's still working. The ECO light does pop on once ina while, though not with the jolt that used to accompany it turning on/off, nor the lurch in acceleration/power. I'm in Minnesota with extreme winters and summer temps up to 100°F. I do have to adjust it in the summer or the ECO light stays popping on. Now that we're in the hot season again I have to adjust it again, otherwise i turn the first and last switched to "off", for 109 ohms. That works pretty good still, but I've gotta put it a little higher to around 120 ohms.
@@mnmurph thanks for getting back to me as I have the same one. Btw, Have you experienced a check engine light now that it’s summer when you have to increase the resistance? If so, What code and what do you do about it?
@@awongutume ask on odyclub.com and they'll help you troubleshoot. I didn't get a check engine light. It sounds kinda familiar though. What resistance is yours set to?
@MN Murph, originally at 109 similar to what you did as I’m in Florida with mainly a hot climate. What is strange I drove 280 miles non stop with no Eco light or check engine. Then next day, it popped up about 20 miles into my driving. So, I decided to lower it to 98, that’s when the Eco started showing up. Hence my dilemma on which way to go. Thanks for your time.
huh same way you refill any other butane lighter look at the bottom it has a hole where there is the refill valve, you need to get a butane canister like ronsonol or clipper etc just take it to a convenience store as they usually carry butane cans and they will do it for you or show you how just like any other lighter refill
They sure made it a PITA to reach! I've been having mysterious coolant loss and finally found wetness around the drain plug. I guess these are known for having the O-ring fail and start leaking. Cheap to replace but certainly not easy to access. Doesn't help when it's freezing outside. Thanks for the video!
