Top vid, saved me a call out. I had to undo my nut quite a bit to see the bubbly oil but it does work. Took about 5 unlocks to get all the air out but it worked. Thank you !
I had the same problem on my w211 ("no power, won’t go above 3000 rpm"). The electric motor on the turbocharger broke down, the electrician repaired it for 30$, and there are no more problems.
Hi there, I have removed the intake manifold aswell as I found it to be easier. How do I know the booster is faulty and how it should work normally as mine doesn't stop at all. Thanks.
Yes I believe if you disconnect the lead to the booster heater it’ll solve the problem as long as you disconnect then put tape around the wire connector. Would be fiddly though and best get a fitter with ramps to do it I’d say. The cable comes from and sits above the starter motor
Also I didn’t know what the booster heater was or where it was, I don’t have ramps. I looked at the starter and one of the bolts is in a very awkward position. When I removed the manifold I was winging it, I didn’t know what was there as it wasn’t on my diagram at the time. I didn’t remove the stater as it looked really difficult and it was working. I found it better to work down blind than work up blind. The purpose of these vids was to show the booster heater and the fault I encountered. If you want to refine your method bash on. I’d personally avoid starter removal if I didn’t have to.
@@peaandham1973 I also have a defective heater booster and I'm planing to replace it. I asked because I'm lazy and I'm looking for the easiest way possible.
Thanks for these videos! And I think this answers my question. But I have the same car & same problem mot expires may can I just isolate this and run without until I scrap it? Any help appreciated 😊
Thanks for the great vid. Did you use specific torque for the screws of the booster heater? Im also planning to do this repair but im not sure about which torque, maybe 10-13 Nm? Cheers.
I have the same issue on an ML 2002 w163, I replaced the maf sensor but that didn't work. As I undid the hose to the egr I found a lot of gunk which I cleaned out with oven cleaner. I will check on this vacuum hose too as power did return but now its gone again. The hose sends a vacuum to the egr to open and close.
I had the same problem on my w211 ("no power, won’t go above 3000 rpm"). The electric motor on the turbocharger broke down, the electrician repaired it for 30$, and there are no more problems.
Hello just read this now. The box should just be a cover only. I’m sure you saw that. Probably I should make a video on how to remove the front of the boiler.
Thanks for the video, If you bleed radiators and the pressure drops below 1, is it the same nut to repressurise the system or is that something else? If so could you tell me how? This is about the only video I can find with the same boiler as I've got and the manuals are rubbish! Thanks
The radiator is a semi sealed pressurised water system. I say semi sealed because you can unseal it to bleed and unseal it to charge. Different system, this is the kerosene or heating oil feed from the tank. The pressurised and semi sealed water heating circuit is charged with water pressure. There will be a valve near to the mains cold water feed that when turned will charge up the water pressure. I’m not a plumber, strictly diy
I used a few rags around it. I loosened the nut first then hand tightened it then his the button. Bubbles and Oil came out. I kept doing this till the boiler kicked in and started up or went boom. Probably best to wear rubber gloves and wrap with a rag or 2. When I did this video I just wanted to share. I’m not a heating engineer just a regular DIYer trying to problem solve and save money. This got us going again when we ran out of oil by mistake a couple of times
the whole point was to see how ya bleed it without getting oil everywhere mate, there didn't seem to be puddles of oil laying around so how did ya do it as they aren't the same as most bleed nuts/screws
