No one used to bat an eye lid when they were being made now that there gone seems the entire world (seen vids from UK, Germany and USA) is keen on them.
You would see the views better if you were on your monkey bike I couldn’t see them you were going to fast😅it sounds brilliant your on your own where’s your dad.or Ellis xx
As an Aussie....they are not over $100k. Unless you're in the eastern states where they charge sentimental value. Anywhere from $36k to $70 realistically which is about £15k to £35k
@@rowanlewisuk seen a few online as I'm looking to buy which the vxr8 flags up around the £20-25k range. Albeit not supercharged so your point is more accurate than mine.
Careful with the torques. There are different figures quoted. A common one is 2nm, 8nm, +270deg, which is obviously a heck of a lot more than your 7nm, +180 deg. Check how tight it feels when you open it and use whichever sequence seems to best suit the way it was. I undid mine with a 1/4” ratchet, so it can’t have been stupidly tight. This sounds much more reasonable than the more common figure, which I’m sure would have shorn off my 1/4” square drive I noticed you didn’t clean the seat. I suspect that’s why they leak and get stuck. People don’t clean them properly, or at all, and expect the new copper seal to make up for any imperfections that may have occurred during removal. I’ll be cleaning mine, before I fit the new injector. I’m not certain, but I think a code reader that’s compatible with VAGCOM will be able to code the new injector. Any imbalance between the cylinders will apparently accelerate the wear on the dmf, so best to have that right.
Increased crank case pressure...pushes loads of oil back into the manifold and throttle body. Oil catch can does exactly what it says: catches the oil from the crankcase and only allows air to travel back into the manifold. Carefully remove the rubber pipe from infront of the throttle body and clean the black soot with carburettor cleaner(spray same on a towel) I have elite engineering catch can on my LS3 and works a treat
the clutch adjustment was out, no free play between release bearing and clutch cover you could hasve saved a lot of work if you had found there was no free play
Do the bolts thread all the way through the hub to the bearing or do they just slide through hub and thread into the bearing as I wanna just cut mine off flange side then wack the bolts back through
Thanks for the info very clear .... fyi Im a woodworker so have used a £4 g cramp to push pistons in in the past on other cars ... . Off to fix my sisters fiat now ! 🙂
Most helpful videos about the Lancer. I got my Ralliart in really great maintained condition, and hopefully, the dual-clutch is not going to be problematic, especially because the last owner had 3 transmission oil changes in 80k. Basically, they also changed the oil every 7000 km. I changed all the fluids, and there was zero metal on the magnetic drain plug. It looked really good.
I wonder if he ever realized he bought the wrong coilovers... If you're looking for Rebound, SLOW compression, FAST compression, you're looking for BC *ZR* Series.
Thank you my English friend. The Yanks did their left (driver's) door. Had to find another video for the lock barrel. Your video did not include as much swearing as we delivered. 2 hours x son and father. All set. Could do it again in half the time. Thanks again. FIAT = Fix It All the Time
