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@@StackingLayers litterly about to start my first benchy with inputshaping and im porbably going to be disapointed because my bed slinger wont be able to run 2200mm/s² xD wish me luck
Unfortunately the M8P doesn't have the audio out pins connected to anything. I have seen ways to add audio out via the gpio pins but I've never done that.
Yeah very easy. You cannot plug and play a Panda touch to a Klipper firmware machine. If you want a closer out of box experience then it's best to get a k-Touch to start with since the compatible firmware is already on it. This is for those that want to convert from a Panda touch to a k-Touch without buying a new unit.
This was awesome, thank you! I'm stuck at the point where we restart and the MCU is visible in Mainsail. I've followed and reviewed the instructions and everything worked up till that point. The IDs match in the cfg file, the pi sees the unit from command line so it's flashed, working, and running. It won't show up on Mainsail and the accelerometer_query doesn't work. What could go wrong that would cause that?
for those having problem fo querry uuid you are probable doing everything right youjust need to use this command line before inserting the query command line and it will work first paste this. sudo ip link set up can0 type can bitrate 500000 after this. ~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0 and yes I almost lost all my hair trying to set this up I think bigtreetech needs to make a script for this or pay creators do do it for them because is too difficult and I'm a tech person
even after configuring everything sucessfully and making the ebb board working I could see mcu mp5 everything was normal I even managed to make the extruder working but after reboot the printer everything disappears again. i belive that is cb1 problem is not saving the changes something is wrong I can do it over and over again but as soon I restart the printer everything is gone, do you have any suggestions maybe my CB1 need to be reflashed differently? this thing is frustrating 😫
Setting the bitrate to 500000 will only work if you set the MCU's to use that bitrate from the start. Most now use 1000000 for bitrate on newer systems. It's best to set your can0 file in interfaces.d to auto set the canbus bitrate.
From what you describe, it seems that you have not setup the can0 file for your configuration. Send the command, sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 In that file you should have something like this, allow-hotplug can0 iface can0 can static bitrate 500000 up ip link set $IFACE txqueuelen 1024
That clicking do also my cheap dual gear extruder, but problems seems different. Not in gears, but in the nozzle. Usually cause when changing nozzle. Between throat and nozzle there was old material, that cause bigger resistance and then cause clicking gears.
That would be the motor skipping stept. If your gears are actually slipping there is a major mechanical issue happening. The clicking addressed in this video is minor backlash. its just an annoying sound, not a defect.
im even confused now if this stm programmer is the same because I cant find the options fo see USB or even flash. do you have any recommendations how to ?
@@StackingLayers is ok the software installed other apps i was using something different not actually programmer. Now it worked. But I'm now trying to make did to show up I'm stuck here I'm installing 120r pin and also connecting the Cable . That part on the video you didn't mentioned
ok i need help badly!!! I have the Siboor Voron 2.4 aug, i was following your video because i wasn't seeing any of my UUID's Including the Octopus pro. I was able to reset the Octopus pro and finally get the UUID from it. But after following you video and flashing the Can board i can not Pull the UUID form the that board. And Now i'm unable to see the UUID of my Octopus board. Have any idea's?
Check the wires in the rj11 connector. There was a batch that has them backwards. There's a post about it on the SIBOOR discord discord.com/channels/1030697720312234054/1031481344796135504/1266287652534222858
If it's a Linux PC and that is what is running klipper then yes. Otherwise no, you cannot use this for your regular PC that you are interfacing with klipper through the browser.
There are other ways to be able to send notifications, for instance to discord or telegram and so on. You may be able to use those to trigger sounds on a regular PC but I have not looked too deep into that stuff yet.
@@StackingLayers Ok clear. Thanks for your answer. maybe people who have raspberry pi have the possibility to connect speakers. then it will work I think.
i love how simple your videos are to follow. the detail down the the Explanation. people tell you what all the code is but never explain what it does, so thank you alot! The first video i found of yours was the klipper for beginners, i watched modbots video on how to install Mainsail and klipper to a laptop, but was never shown how to compile the freaking .cfg until i came across your videos and channel. thank you for the amazing content :D
That is so great to see! This really means a lot. My main goal is to give both new and seasoned makers the knowledge to fully understand what is happening. Copy and paste is great to get started but doesn't provide the tools to do later problem solving. That's where the frustration comes into play in my opinion. It's very hard to search for a solution when you don't even know what it could be called. I'm glad to see that there are many getting actual benefit from my videos.
Its good to stay with what the lower accel between the X and Y. Typically X has a much higher accel but since they work in unison it's best to choose the lower. This will prevent too much smoothing round corners and whatnot. But of course you can always experiment and see how it goes with higher and recommended. I've seen plenty have good success.
Question.....working with a Pi4, SKR Pico, and those are connected via UART. Is it possible to connect the Pi to the SKR Pico via UART and connect the S2DW via usb? I'm just a newb trying to get these running. Great video.....but I'm stuck after flashing the sensor, it never reconnects via USB. I can see it when it's in bootloader mode, just not post flash. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
hi grate vid have followed it but am getting this error Klipper reports: ERROR Pin 'pc15' is not a valid pin name on mcu 'mcu' Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART" command to reload the config and restart the host software. Printer is halted have relished the board with the renamed klipper.bin file but still getting it don't know where to start looking any help would be grateful🙏
That means that klipper can't find the PC15 pin in the list of available pins on your board. Are you sure that in the correct pin number for your setup? If so maybe you have an extra space or indent, or some other out of place text that is confusing the system.
I've seen a few tutorials on the ADXL345 hooked up to a Raspberry Pi, and I saw your tutorial on the BTT modules. I was wondering: Is there a way to hook up a cheap ADXL345 module directly to the SPI of a BTT mainboard, such as the SKR1.4 or similar? Also, are there any advantages or disadvantages to using the main printer MCU instead of an extra module that would take up an additional USB slot on my Pi? Thank you!
Yes you should be able to the spi on the MCU. The only advantage the usb version has is ease of setup. These aren't really ment to be permanently attached so the usb is only occupied when running shaper calibrate, and similar tests. Once you have things tuned you can disconnect it.
I just finished building the same siboor v2.4r2 kit, but 300mm and with no included abs/metal parts (i printed my own) and also found the kit quality was excellent. Installing Canbus firmware and finding UUIDs was a pain and the printer.cfg needed a few octopus pro mcu pins added/corrected or inverted just to get it working or moving in the right direction but a great kit otherwise.
This would be more relevant to the octopus, but in general it's more or less the same. You just need to choose the correct chip and pins for the board you have as there are different versions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q6iEget35Xw.html
Comparing the schematics they look exactly the same in the connectors, so I have to suspect that its a wiring error or loose connection. Or maybe when copy pasting the configuration, the formatting got messed up. Look for random spaces in the configuration especially at the start of lines.
a lot of very good information but very hard to follow the installation while the squirrel goes sideways, that said I have watched this video a dozen times and written notes to keep myself on track and with out your video I could not have accomplished the goal of having Klipper installed, Thank you , thank you, thank you I have learned so much following the Squirrel.
nice vid. the actual difference in the boards is how accurate they are. The S2DW resolution is 1.6-1600Hz... V2.0 with the ADXL345 has a higher resolution from 0.1-3200Hz. It also has dev pads on the underside for soldering wires to. Both do the same functions. But the ADXL is much faster and has a far better resolution and noise rating if you compare the data on a graph. even tho the specs are better for the S2DW in that aspect. The only thing the S2DW has over the ADXL is its bit rate sensitivity of 16bits vs. 10 bit of the ADXL. Other wise both are great sensors. I use them in Gyro cams and they work flawless.
I received the same Siboor kit those MotherFu***rs didn't give me a logo'd pei sheet mine is blank 😢 haha still this Voron prints so great and it looks like the quality gets better, check out the Trident AWD kit I'm really thinking about it also sorry for rambling 😅
Haha you can ramble as much as you want in the Stacking Layers zone! I've also been eyeing their new Trident. It looks great, and considering how good my V2.4 has been so far, it would make for a perfect addition. Unfortunately budgeting doesn't agree with the wants department.
For this kind of service this is one of the easiest methods. You could always set up a chrome remote desktop to your PC and use your printer that way. You wouldn't have the AI failure detection of course.
@@StackingLayers *I am just looking for the DON"T PRINT THAT PART feature. I am sick of trashing whole trays of small parts because one came loose from the build plate and is slinging sting everywhere. I have NO idea where to paste that code? Maybe pretend we know nothing at all and make a detailed video that a 3 year old could follow.*
@johnslugger for that just add this to your printer.cfg file, [exclude_object] You will then have a little box with an x in it at the top of your print status click on that and you can choose what part to exclude.
Are you talking about the z virtual endstop? That depends on the user's setup. If they are using a probe of some sort yes. If actual endstops are used then no, the 2 lines above that would be uncommented instead.
@@StackingLayers thankyou very much for replying but since commenting i fixed it. had to rotate the x11 output and flip the touch input as well. but now it works and i am struggeling with a nother issue (my zprobe being triggered at all times, it isnt inverted)
Exactly what I was looking for. Been using Marlin for years and have recently started looking as Klipper for faster printing but the code was just confusing me. Great videos! Cheers
Great video! Hadn't considered any other extruder on the stealthburner other than the clockwork or galileo. Have you considered using the galileo 2 extruder?
I have considered the Galileo 2. I really like the idea of the planetary gears. I just blew my budget on a new microphone to battle my sound issues, but maybe in the future I'll look into one of those.
I run the Galileo 2 on mine it's honestly the best I've ran the only other I've ran that's been the same if not better is the Large Gear CW2 mod using the Lgx lite / HGX Lite Gears
Hello, please help me. I set up the Manta E3 EZ and CB1, but the setup doesn't start when I remove the SD card. It starts when I insert the SD card. How can I make it start without the setup SD card? Thanks
If you are talking about the SBC's (Sing board computer's) SD card not the MCU then that is how it works. The CB1 needs the SD card in as that is its harddisk. Just like you can't run your PC without a harddisk you cannot run the SBC without one.
Yeah, basically. The make menuconfig settings will be a little different because it's a different chip on board. So make sure to look at the GitHub repo for that.
Thanks for the detailed video! Unfortunately I got stuck at the very end. Setting up Manta M8P 2.0 and EBB36. I was seeing both uuids after installing the 120R jumper, so I proceeded with flashing Klipper to the EBB. The flash succeeded and the success message looked the same as in the video, however after flashing I stopped seeing the uuid of the EBB. I restarted my board and now I'm not seeing any uuids. Not quite sure what do next.
Did you make klipper for the EBB to use canbus? And set the same bitrate as the rest? Also keep on mind that of you enter the UUID into the printer.cfg, it will not show anymore in the terminal.
@@StackingLayers I did set it up to use canbus I believe. Set the bitrate to 1000000 for both. Seems like I must have broken something because even the standard Klipper 'ls /dev/serial/by-id/*' results in 'cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/*': No such file or directory' edit - the above is apparently expected after flashing the manta. I might have to start over from installing Klipper on the Manta? Would like to figure out where I went wrong first though. I had printer.cdfg set up but I deleted it to see if that would fix things. Did not seem to, as with printer.cfg in place I was at least seeing the Manta uuid. Put printer.cfg back but still 0 uuids.
@@StackingLayers Edit - restored my printer.cfg by grabbing the serial from the logs. I now see the manta uuid again. Ended up getting it sorted with some help from the klipper discord. I think was missing the 120r jumper on the manta, and may have had the wrong pins selected when flashing the EBB. I double tapped the reset button on the EBB to get back to where I could see both the manta and EBB uuids, then flashed the EBB again. This time it showed two klipper uuids (likely because I had installed the 120r jumpers)
How's the Hurakan holding up? Still have/using it? I just got one on clearance at MicroCenter so I've been researching. Also got a H2 V2.0 with it for $8, super deal lol. And then I saw BTT/Biqu has a whole H2V2S upgrade kit for the Hurakan, but I wish they'd just sell the carriage/mounting bracket part solo, that's all I need!
Micro Center has been having some amazing deals I've seen. Too bad there's not one near me. I'm not using Hurakan as much as the Voron at the moment but it's still printing perfect.
Thank You this was not the easiest method I tried but it is the one that actually worked and did not give me a headache because a step was not in the video like some others! It has been a massive learning curve for me but I love to learn. Thank you again
