How the hel are we supposed to know what you did. You showed absolutely nothing. We need to know how it was wired etc not just how to make 4 holes in a box
What distance do you have (nor need) between the trailer dolly tires and the trailer jack? Wondering if tight turns might allow the dolly tires to run into the trailer jack?
Did you find it difficult to turn on concrete? Because there's no differential on the axle but instead it's a solid shaft and the wheels are not independent. I noticed in your video when you were turning it you were actually pulling kind of hard did you find it difficult as well?
Just my opinion. A holding tank is supposed to be just that. It is not and should not be treated as a septic tank. What does that mean? It means no breakdown it needed. Happy camper even said it is for septic tank. For those that use these, I’m pretty sure you are also saying that the sensors don’t work because they are no good. Mine work just fine.
it is 100% a holding tank and dont disagree with that but emulsified will always flow better and less chance of clogging or leaving "Stuff" in the tank. you really just want to break it down for flow reasons. great point!
Wow, we're coming in really late on this... thanks so much for the mention. When doing tests like this with HappyCampers, make sure to test them in the holding tank here's why; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5KWfLtEdBQ8.htmlsi=8UKtQ-BBdMM7UHXs
the first few years (20-22) were gas only. 22-24 can be gas and electric. however the layout should be the same except for the 24s with a new kitchen layout it might be slightly different i hope that helps
This is the video I needed today after coming back from camping with the door ajar and 3 bottles of Powerade almost keeping us from being able to shut it enough to unlock it. Thanks!
This is my scenario. I tried the crank Trailer Vallet XL on my (10k) on my 5k trailer and it was find for flat ground but it would not go up my driveway. wheels would just slip.
great question. yes you absolutely can do it that way its just harder to get the nubs lined up correctly and tighten it down is alot easier with it out of the dolly as it needs to be perfectly straight up and down. also the instructions state to do it out of the dolly also. they do have another attachment now with extra wheels so you dont need to tighten anything just like its on a vehicle even easier but another 400-500 bucks thanks for watching!
Big help!! Same basic principal for the 176ers. I have a Forest River Salem FSX 176QBHK, under the kitchen sink has the access to the lines you’ll need to access (luckily they are little easier than here on the 178).
as long as you dont have a hill with incline yes, but would recommend there turf tires( widder ones, and think those are the standard tires now from what there site is showing))
I only use double ply toilet paper. Cottonelle. Try using a double ply TP for this experiment. Then, it would be more accurate. That single ply you tested with, is way too thin and anything will dissolve that. A double ply would have been a more accurate testing subject, with better results in saying which brand is best.
thank you for watching. it was 2 ply , not cottenell fluffy level but sply great value (walmart brand) . .yes different paper will react differently . this is just how i tested it with what is used in our trailer. results can and will vary with paper, environment, chemical levels, size and shape of tanks, ect. thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this video. I found it very helpful for us. We are wondering which product to buy, this has helped a lot. However, I am not sure if it is wise to mix 2 products together. As you mentioned, one of the products (Happy Campers) says NOT to mix other products with it right?
I mix the tst pouches mentioned in this video and rv digest it in my motorhome. I follow directions of both. Works like a dream! Been doing this for over a year in my class a. I did a similar test as this video using mason jars and mixing rv digest it with tst, thetford, etc... 6 different brands. Found that the tst orange and rv digest is by far the best. Breaks down everything
Lining box with foam is good or shorter bolts from the hardware store or rubber thread end caps. Anchor battery and box down with heavy duty nylon straps. I'd add an anti-theft deterrent box.
"Primarily when replacing or working on the battery wiring, if the negative is not disconnected you can cause a short circuit if you touch the positive lead to the RV frame. This can be avoided by disconnecting the negative first or if the battery disconnect is installed on the negative lead the risk is mitigated." for reference no ground, no flow
A few things I see that could lead to an issue. One is the end of the bolt's will eventually ware on the battery. Second is the opening of the disconnect should be pointing down so you get less water in that area. Third, should you connect the disconnect on the positive terminal side?
i appreciate the feedback! 1. i have added a foam block in the battery box exactly for that reason since. 2. i have rotated switch so wires come out the bottom at the end of last season (no signs of damage or water intrusion and was just looking at it and thinking snow over the winter 3. i have an automotive background and ALWAYS disconnect the ground . with out a ground a circuit can not be completed . i have noticed marine is usally on the positive side but at the end of the day either way produces the same result. thanks for watching and the feedback!
