Some VQ's have a ground that runs from the heat shield to under the intake. You can really only see the thread for it if you remove the intake. I run the Tomei headers, which have no shields, so I put one ground on the upper plenum, and ran it to that original ground location under the intake

lmaooo nah fam, i'm good

Yes, I'm running a donor block from a G35 auto coupe now lol. I think you can buy JWT C9 or even C10 cams from Z1 now, but not completely sure.

@@jellofuel did z1 say anything about valve clearance to the pistons?

For my build, no. It's an interference engine, so tuning is vital. I trust John at Z1 with tuning my z.

It felt a bit more alive with the weight gone. I know some owners leave it in place for structural rigidity, but I think the z is stout enough it doesn't need it

Hey, so I thought the C2's didn't require headwork, but looks like they need JWT shims and springs. Their S1 and S2 cams don't require them. People upgrade the oil pump because the regular DE doesn't rev as high as the revup. The revup pump has stronger gears, so if you retune for 7k rpm, it's best to upgrade for it. Realistically, I've never heard of any oil pump failing on the 350z. Low oil pressure is almost always the dam oil gallery gaskets. But for a couple hundred bucks, that oil pump gives that peace of mind, because installing the cams is a lot of work. The oil pump itself isn't any additional work, since it's driven by the primary timing chain, which comes off for the cam job anyways. I think you'd need to lower the upper oil pan, (once front timing cover is off) but that'd be it.

Thanks, my z is down rn, while i fix or repair the radiator. Which sucks, i just wanna drive my z lol

Holding up fine! They're wrapped now for heat management, but still sound great

@@jellofuel are they worth it for the DE?

@@abransanchez7176 imo yes, they're equal length unlike basically all the others. So that helps with exhaust scavenging and more power. The only other options I'd consider are Z1 shorties or long tubes like PPE or maybe ISR

Overall, I'd say they're worth it only if you're doing something else like oil galley gaskets, or replacing timing components, etc. When we first did the cams, there were no plug and play swap kits available for VHR engine into the DE chassis. But now that's an option, and one I'd more likely consider.

I had scooped up a used diff from someone parting out a tracked 350z nismo. I think the 4.09 would be too short tbh, you would be shifting far more often.

It's a lot of work and requires a retune, but it's definitely a good idea if you plan on keeping the car for a while. Might be cheaper nowadays to sell the DE 350z and spring a bit more for an HR, they've really come down in price recently.

Wife and i have actually seen them live twice now lol. Def-initely a good show if you can catch them

Third gear. I have a 3.9 final drive, so the speed will be different than a 350z with the stock 3.5 gear.

Thanks, the smartest way to do it would be to cut out the sides at the top, first, so you can get to the spot welds underneath. Instead of trying to take it all out in 1 piece like I did.

Trackspec Motorsports is the company, I bought in during a group buy on Facebook

@@jellofuelperfect thanks .. dam I wish I seen the group but I need a set

No worries! The camera doesn't do it justice, in person this sounds like pure sex lmao

@@jellofuel i get that . I just did same thing but it sounds like those old school 260 from Star Road. Have you had to do maintanance on your cams since install btw?

@@1MADZ Just regular oil changes. I'd take the valve covers off if the intake system wasn't so time consuming to do, but checking lash wouldn't be a bad idea. Never really thought of it until now tbh

Jim Wolf Technology C8 cams.

​@@jellofuelappreciate that

I was looking at their cam cards, so the JWT C8 has 272/272 and 12.01/12.01mm lift. So it's their 272 cam. It seems worth around 20-30rwhp over what a revup cam would be and about 10rwhp more than a 262 cam...@@jellofuel

it's NA, and I always heard that about power but thought I'd test it myself.

hey, thanks a lot! I appreciate it

What made u get rid of xyz resonated pipe?

@@ThatFooAngel Z1 advised me to switch to their new y-pipe several years ago because they were sure the Motordyne was holding us back from my power goals.

Yes, the corbeau seat brackets sit higher than stock. I think they offer super low sitting brackets, which is what I'd prefer.

@@jellofuel thanks for the reply! It's funny b/c a few other videos I saw, folks were complaining the Planted "low" bracket was too low!! Lol...

I think the highest numbers I've seen are 350 whp for HR, and 370 whp for VHR. The VHR just needs exhaust cams though, since the intake side has basically infinite VVTL.

thank you!

I really don't think they drop in as-is. The heads were machined, and the engine builder installed JWT valve and shim kit, which is designed for use with the cams. I think the largest strictly drop-in cams from JWT are the C2's. But they may have changed the sizes since I last checked. Tomei has large drop-in cams as well.

@@jellofuel I was looking for the tomei poncams for the drop in. I was worried about buying cams that need the head machined but it looks like almost all the cams need some work done.

I’d say it’s fine especially if you have cams. The stock de computer will let you change the rev limiter to 7100 but there’s no reason as stock cams lose power not long after 6k

You'd want aftermarket valvetrain, because I'm sure that's the first point of failure when reving past 7k. I've seen a lot of people say you want upgraded oil pump (like revup pump), but I've never heard of one failing. Good to do while the engine's apart though. I'm using stock short block though, ideally I'd have pistons, rods, etc but it's just not in the budget.

I’m fbo e85 on stock cams and my redline is set at 7400. Still makes power at that rpm and it’s a revup de

honestly sounds pretty good and usually i think these sound like shit

Loud drone at 2k-ish rpm that but goes away at 2500 or so. But no need to downshift for most hills, just put the gas down more lmao

I would give the revup plenum and spacer a shot. If you were only swapping plenums, you'd notice the decrease in useable torque. But the spacer would eliminate that, and you'd make power all the way to redline. Running the regular DE plenum, there's a huge power drop after 6k rpm or so, but the revup plenum fixes that. (at the cost of low end torque)

Camming them is def the way to go... Turns into a completely different VQ35 than what you woke up with

There's cutting involved because the speaker box is installed in 2 large components. So the top part that has the small speakers covers spot welds for the lower half. So drilling it off completely isn't possible. I saw that post, I think the dude put a seat there for his dog lmao

Yep! Theyre all leather though, so just the rear seat costs like 200 bucks

Just my phone, pixel 4, since my camera's battery was drained

I don't think so, I think the block is the same and everything else is different. If you need new cams, I'd go aftermarket, or buy stock ones from someone who's upgraded.

Like any purchase, it's only worth it if your goals and budget allow for it, which is the point of my breakdown here. I think breaking down numbers deters people from installing cams for n/a DE's probably more than it encourages it. While the heads were sent to machine shop, I did the install with a buddy, so everything was cost effective for me in reaching my goal.

what do you mean? I get my performance parts from them, if that's what you mean.

@@jellofuel yup thats what i was referring to

I haven't tracked the z with the new seats yet. I really need to modify the driver side seat bracket though, there's no way I will fit in the car with a helmet on since it sits higher than stock. But once I'm ready, I hope to hit a track and report back

@@jellofuel Excellent, let me know then ! I'm on the market for some ''streetable'' track seat my self.

I say yes, but clearance would be tight. Even with the vehicle up as high as you can get it. But can be done without pulling the engine. I'd pull it out, redo seals and gaskets to make it easier and more reliable.

I went with Jim Wolf Tech C8, which are 272's. I think the 272's for the HR will make like 350whp after a tune and full bolt ons