Welcome to my channel! Also known as Junkendriven You'll find a mix in here, some electrical and electronic tear-downs and attempted fixes. Some car maintenance and general HOWTOs and generally anything I can get my hands on and pull apart to show you good people how things work or why things do what they do! I'd like to hear from you too, if you have something you'd like taken apart, figured out how it does what it does then send me a message. contact@junkendriven.org www.junkendriven.org/
For ppl just finding this video, the new struts are a push fit. Also, if you purchase ones from an auction site, and the new ones are a little longer (5mm or so), unfasten both struts, then the newer (slightly longer) ones will fit fine. 👍
My car has this problem. I had no idea what the yellow car symbol was all about. Tried passive regeneration two times, but I guess this have to be the answer to the problem
This video saved me from buying a new motor for about 60% of the price of a new catdogmate. (shipping and VAT included). You sir are an unsung hero. my motor still only spins 30% of the time on plugging it in but starts going after giving it a little knock on the side. still don't know for sure what it might be as it is not that old and there was not much buildup on the inside.
Hi Andy,really good helpfull video,I have this same problem,is any chance you can drop a link where I can buy genuine control valve,I find so many on ebay but I heard is very high chance it is fake not genuine Denso,your link where you bought it is not working anymore,and at the deler they sad it will cost me to buy 270£ if you know where I can buy cheaper denso genuine fuel suction control valve please drop a link,thank you
Hi, glad it's useful to you. Searching on the part number this looks a compatible part. Double check for yourself but that should work: www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/ecu/fuel-supply/denso-suction-control-valve-dcrs301110-detail?srsltid=AfmBOorcmhSBXfo7NI0ZLJIDchMxxkl6i-ZRB-3k8jOvCUjpBOX47jnt0WM
@@junkendriven Thank you so much for quick response, all your videos is very helpful :) is it trustable link to buy and it is genuine part?,sorry I never bought anything from this website,thank you.
Just changed one tonight. Got the back-box from EuroCarParts, same-day click and collect. Although I wouldn't recommend it, I jacked up the left side of the car whilst on ramps to make some space and avoided putting myself under the car whilst manhandling the exhaust over the rear axle. Glad to see I'm not the only one with disintegrated heat shield retainers.
Is your exhaust by a brand named karius. If so, what are they like quality wise? I know you only posted 12 days ago but maybe you have past experience with this brand.
Once heated up. I am about £1 a day keeping it set to 38 and the circulation on. Scotland - Hawaii Lazy Spa - Sitting on decking, on astro, then on lazy spa foam mats & a layer of bubble thermal stuff. Initial fill up as well - used hot water from houses internal water tank.
Hehe, yeah new intro! Thank you, yes hopefully no surprises on MOT time which hopefully next week, after that then going to book some tracks and also some car shows maybe
Had the same issue on my 2014 qashqai.. On closer inspection of the pipes I could see evidence of soot on the red pipe and a crack about as big as my finger. After a great deal of fiddling and laying over the engine, I managed to undo the nut holding the sensor to the engine. This allowed a little bit of slack in the pipes. By twisting the clips, it twisted the pipes and very carefully I was able to remove the sensor. I then cut the offending pipe which enabled me to slide off the two cut ends. Replacement was easy, the new pipe slipped on and although I wasn't able to put the clips back in place, they are attached to the pipe still. I felt that nonce I had bolted back the sensor, the pressure on the pipes would keep them in place. The two pipes cost 7 and 14 pounds, so a total of 21 quid plus vat. Very pleased to have got them in place although my arms were a bit sore from being down the back of the engine, cleared the fault light and so far so good! Really pleased to find this video so thank you very much!
Very good video and exactly what my pipe looks like! Going to attempt this myself in a day or two. Is it better to remove the wiper plastic tray to get access do you think? Also, what size are the hoses, are they both the same as the originals are different colors. The red hose on mine is fractured and all sooty.
Mine broke off EGR is the pipe the same for my 1.6 cdti 136 ps if not any links.ive looked at lots of different pipes but can’t seem to find the correct 1
@@junkendriven I did it how it described on the website for the Volvo XC60 2012 Open the back Put it in the position Pres the button for 3 seconds in than release Press once and Tadaa it was working again.. After the second try to see of it fixed it broke in half a fcking blast 💥
Ah ok, so yes that sequence sets the limits. That only works when the software has already had the update, unfortunately mine hasn't so it won't recalibrate. It does sound like a defective part though, I'd try and get it returned as faulty
I have a feeling that won't work as the two struts have different tolerances, so may not work. I did try that on mine at first, replaced one then the other but I think mine wouldn't work for other reasons
Tried this and it loosened both handles up but now when i lock the car and reopen the back doors can only be opened from the inside , once i do that they are both ok until i lock again , any ideas on a fix
Hi, this sounds like something else, possibly with the child lock mechanism. Try clicking the child lock on and off a few times in case something there has got stuck after freeing the handles. It's not something I've seen though.
Hi, I've done a few on this fault on the channel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4EBu5AR3IDE.html Is another video which is related to this fault code. It was never 100% resolved unfortunately as it can be quite a few issues causing the fault code
I would turn the exhaust clamps round a bit so that they don't point down, might catch something like over a speed hump, just a thought but you're doing a good job 👍 I used to have Volvo's in the past, 240, 740😊
Thanks for the kind comments, and yes I've been thinking the same and have moved them round to avoid as I'm also not sure if MOT test might give me a minor for something like that pointed downwards. Thanks for the good tip! Oh Volvo 240 is definitely going back a bit, so iconic though.
this bloke got them out by shoving a screwdriver between the bush and the axle. seemed to work ok. had some problems getting the new ones in tho. what a pig of a job, thx gm ^^ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mmYg8s8b2gw.html
Thanks you so much for making that video I would never had been able to fix it other wise, I uses 11 inch long reach pliers to complete the job. A big thank you.
Andy, I know this is an old video now but I had my Bentley GT Continental garaged for six months and the battery was as flat as a pancake. I do own the CETEK BUT WASN’T SURE IF THE BATTERIES WERE TOO FAR GONE I SPOKE TO BENTLEY AND THEY SAID I’D PROBABLY NEED A NEW BATTERY HOWEVER I PERSEVERED AND HAVING WATCHED YOUR VIDEO. I PUT IT ON THE RECON MODE AND HEY PRESTO I DON’T HAVE TO PAY HUNDREDS OF POUNDS FOR A NEW BATTERY NOW THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO ONE LAST QUESTION WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE MXS 7.0 as I was told this was a more powerful charger for my BENTLEY!!!?
Hi, I'm glad the video helped and you recovered the battery. It's sometimes hit and miss, I've had some recover and some don't. I don't think you'd need a different unit for charging any batteries as this will cope with all capacities as far as I know so this should be good for your Bentley.
Changing that sensor fixed the "Exhaust Gas Recirculation No Flow Detected" code on my S80, but I'm still having sometimes very brief losses of power. Not as much as before but I'm still having it sometimes. And there is no error codes whatsoever.
I'd suspect the egr may still have a problem on your case as if the egr actuator was sticking or the flap was jammed up it'd cause that. Have you done what I did on previous video and cleaned out the egr as much as you could? That's where I'd be looking at next
Yep, the RGR, the throttle body and the pipe to the intake manifold are perfectly clean. Took me half a day to clean up all the "mud". I suspect that automatic gearbox may have something to do with it.
@@petkozhivkov4271 if it's the auto gearbox, you'd probably get a raise in revs without power (like car going into neutral, a rev then it re engaged). Is it worse when car/transmission is hot? If so then yes could be the autobox fluid needs changing. I had mine done a year ago and it definitely improves the gear changes as they became smoother. The problem is trying to track down your exact issue without doing expensive jobs to solve it. Good luck, hopefully you'll catch a fault code or be able to spot something they helps narrow it down
Hi there, it doesn't need turning but if you look on the replacement valve there are orings that make it a very tight fit. Gently wiggle it free by a little side to side movement and it should come free
@@junkendriven sorry one other question, my new part has arrived with a new gasket, however there isn’t one on the old one? Did you use a gasket? Thanks
It could, however normally the fan would fail to bring on constantly not off. Have you checked the fan relay? As that's common to fail after a while. You can also test by bypassing the relay to force the fan to get power, that way you'd know for sure the fan itself and wiring is working ok
