Steve; Should work just fine. As you said, some of the grinding services only get the ways back within 0.002". Taking your time, you should be able to at least get that. You might look into valve refacing wheels to do the grinding. I have an old Black and Decker Valve Refacing machine that uses 45 degree and 60 degree stones to reface valves and seats. Might work on your die grinder to get the results you are looking for.
Steve, I have no doubt that this plan will work, but I would recommend a modification: have just ONE of your rails with a vee top to guide the carriage laterally, and make the other flat. That way, setting-up would be quicker and there would be no risk of two fighting one another. The other thing is, I would prefer sliding pieces, not wheels.
I'm very interested to see your grinding sled. I can see lots of applications for a set up such as what your suggesting. It could be tweaked to allow grinding of vertical ways on a knee or the bed of a mill. A fella may want to a set of plans for said sled so please keep that in mind. Nice job Steve, as always.
Steve , The rail system you describe should work fine . I am worried about the accuracy of the die grinder spindle . I would think a lathe tool post grinder would be better if you have one. Bill
@@10swatkins Ok I can see that but I still worry about that die grinder spindle. I have seen the bearing preload change when they are used for a long period of time . Bill
Looking forward to seeing your plan pan out. My thought was as you have 2 four foot straight edges, couldn't you use them as rails? I know you want the sled self centering, hence the 90 degree steeple, that could be achieved by machining the aforementioned hot rolled, which would rest on the straight edges. Anyway, I know you were just secretly looking for an excuse to go to the foundry.
My prediction: you and Clarke are going to BS all day and become great friends, then at some point in the future on another trip actually get the furnace fired up, molds rammed, and metal poured. You're also probably going to come home with at least one broken muller to add to your project list. Spare yourself and give that project to Don. One more thing, PLEASE mount that die grinder by the angled gear housing itself and not the motor body, they have a terrible tendency to vibrate the jam nut loose under load/vibration (especially when mounted solidly) and then the head swings around and digs into the work or just blows up. There isn't enough red Loctite in the universe to hold the danged things secure.
Yes it's going to work! When I suggested using planed areas on the bed, I wasn't referring to using the ground surfaces of the tailstock ways, I was saying use the planed areas that nothing has ever run on! Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing your way, starting with your trip to Windy hill! All the best, Matthew
I think your plan is the best bang for the buck. The sanding disc idea I'm not sure will work because sanding grit and hardened steel may not have much longevity. I'm thinking a high quality grinding "stone" of surface grinder type material might be better.AL B.
From my experience sanding is a lot faster than grinding stones... I have under construction a Mech Mate Router Table... For years they have experimented with the best way to make the rail system and grinding disks were found to not work nearly as well as flap disk sanding pads... Now I'm thinking that it might have to be a combination of both to get a really nice finish...
Absolutely it will work although I don’t fully understand all the details. Point is I’ve got confidence in your experience to get ‘er done right. With Don’s help of course!
Hell of a plan Steve, can’t wait to see the results. Wouldn’t a tool post grinder be better than a die grinder? Easier to mount and adjust ( you could bolt the compound onto your sled) and less runout
Really looking forward to see this plan in action. Can I suggest that you make your trolley reversible so that when you start to work on the back rails you swap the trolley around, keeping two wheels under the grinding head. I am also curious why you have chosen to go with wheels rather than sliding surfaces. I would think that 3 low friction surface points would eliminate any possibility of run out in the wheels and bearings and minimize the chance of the wheels running over some of the grit generated in the grinding process if you added a wiper or a raked leading face.
Love the idea of the wiper! I am going with V wheels to help with lateral alignment. I have a machine under construction that uses V wheels for it's rail system and it will hold .001" over 8 foot all day long...
Two suggestions. 1. Please make full videos on you building all the components no tic tok version crap.. 2. Tell Donn play time is over and get back in the shop to help out we miss his grumpy ass lol. i am looking forward to this part of the build....
I think your idea will work fine AND you'll modify it as you go along when and if things change. But you better put toe clamps on Dons bicycle speed control on the pedals. He may get wound up and sling a shoe and if not captured to start with he might end up in Houston. BLESSINGS!
I can see the issue with trying to grind the ways where they run by the side of the headstock. Have you thought of trying to use an abrasive belt running around a thin ground and polished radius on the end of a precision platten? A bit like those air files you can get. My friend has a belt machine that I use for plane irons and wood chisels that produces some fine finishes and I'm pretty sure that with a decent rigid setup an abrasive belt would get you close enough for minimal scraping afterwards. In fact you might find that with a suitable drive system and some "custom" plattens it may be the way to grind the whole bed. Good luck with it anyway, whatever you do.
6:31 I agree 100% with you ,even crappy lathe can make a bearing fit its just the matter of time ! On a good lathe you set your depth and thats it on bad ones you have to see how lathe turns the parts(if you own it or work on it every day you kinda connect with the lathe on some spiritual level and you know its soul and all the flaws) and then bump the handle slightly as it goes forward to compensate for wear or when it cuts taper(DRO makes things easier but i worked on pure manual lathes with nothing but handle dials). Its painfully annoying and accuracy will never be superb but you can make a part that can be used within certain tolerance of 0.05mm .
Love your confidence and getter-done attitude. About the sanding disc, r u planning on the ubiquitous rubber sanding pad. Are you concerned that will deflect? What about the spindle runout on the die grinder?
I believe your biggest problem will be getting a way to set the angle grinder in a fixed rigid but adjustable position to do the various grinds with. And allow all those different setups easily. But I like the idea. That platform fixturing will need some thinkin.
Steve, I had the pleasure on meeting Clarke a few years ago at the Bar-Z Summer Bash. I didn't know who he was and sat down next to him. We started chatting about anything and everything for more then an hour. That night when I got home I looked him up and became his 96th subscriber. Long story short, like you said he's a good'ol boy and the nicest guy you'll ever meet.
How will you ensure the grinding rails are in a parallel plane to the spinal rotation over 48 inches? Also, should you use a larger diameter grinding wheel instead of the die grinder? Wouldn’t this be a way to limit the wear on the diameter of the wheel as it traverses the length of the bed?
A larger wheel can not get close to the head.... I will align and check alignment using other surfaces that were ground when they made the bed, Thanks for watching..
Sounds will though out and logical. I cant come up with any holes in your theory. I think the high RPM and low pressure of the die grinder will offset any tolerance errors it would have compared to a true grinding machine. I think the hardest part of all of it will be the initial set up and measurements to ensure the "sled" is tracking dead true to both axis of the chuck (lateral & vertical) to prevent grinding the ways into a built in taper attachment!!! All that said ... could two well calibrated 48" straight edges have been used instead of making new rails? The traversing setup would be almost the same ... points of the 45° .. and a simple gibb system.in the inboard 90° to account for micro elevations and lateral stability. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
You didn't discuss *how* you were going to ensure the new sled rails are all in a plane. Are you going to use one of the King way level devices that Keith Rucker has demonstrated in the past? Also, if your ways required, say, 50 thousandths taken off, will that affect how your carriage (riding on the ways) interacts with the leadscrew? Wouldn't that change the geometry? Thanks for the video.
sounds good but could be a real pain getting dead parallel and level to the existing bed. The screw adjust sounds good but over the length you are grinding three brackets may be better to prevent bow in the unsupported center area also the extra bracket should help with chatter on the grinder. I am probably over thinking this given the cutting forces involved here. hope you do not mind my ramblings here. Stay safe, regards to Don too, looking forwards to seeing the casting process.😀
I think you are over thinking this :) There is very little force on the tool Sanding flap disks will take off the material very easily... Easy to align the rails also.... There are undamaged and unworn parts of the ways that were ground at the time the ways were... Indicate these surfaces in and the rails will be aligned exactly like the bed was ground.... The head was scraped in to align the head with the ways.. no need to worry about the spindle as it will be the same as the bed when I am through....
Food for thought: why not just do the face of the worn side of the prismatic way and makeup the difference under the saddle with moglice or some other material? There is no reason that both sides have to be the same angle. This way you only have half as much grinding to deal with. Good luck! Cheers Zed
i have exactly the same plan for some time, my angle on it is to make a single rail, almost like a bedway. with a cross slide and maybe compound to adjust the tool. what ever you use to do the cutting. lathe bed repair is a big problem in south africa. seems to not be any one doing it ,and the grinding co, i have spoken to will only do flat horizontal surfaces.......my boley 5lz is warn to 0.46mm from what i could measure having no real reliable reference surface. very bad. am looking at single pointing it , almost like a planer the mount to the job rather than the job to the planer. plan on making this rig extra long, maybe 2m . will see what budget allows. following to see how yours work out......
I recently reground a small lathe bed using this arrangement. The end results were somewhat okay but good enough for my needs. My bed had around 10 thousandths wear in the front vee way.
Thanks for the series. For 5 years, I had the pleasure of running a very well cared for 10EE made in 1986, what a great machine. I changed careers and would like to find one in good shape for myself now; like all of us. The tubes went out in my old one once, that seems to be the Achilles heel of them all.
Curious to see how a die grinder spindle would hold up for accuracy (assuming nothing else added). I don’t see why it wouldn’t work in principle. My immediate thoughts are whether mounting the rails inboard to the tailstock ways would be easier. That way you piggyback on the beds’s stiffness already. This may not provide as wide of a support however and I see why you think the way you are. Not sure if there is a way around that by going vertical in some fashion, or adding length to the sled so as to help alignment.
Need the extra width for stability when the spindle is moved out side the rails to grind the flats... Well At least that is what I think now :) Thanks for watching..
Hey Steve Once again, details matter. Thank you for taking on this project. When I first started watching the $7000 mistake series, I never would have imagined that you would end up building a precision sled to take out the 0.007" of wear. Bravo!
Good luck! Want to see how it turns out. You might consider using a woodworking router rather than a die grinder. Basically the same thing but already has the 90 degree platform made for you.
I saw a video of a japanese guy scraping a machine component for alignment. He used a grinder on the really bad spots. He used it with an expert touch, just like a scraper---repeatable cuts, slightly overlapping, working systemmatically. ALSO, I know it's annoying to get feedback like this but about 10 minutes of this video are review for those of us who are following along. You already have a catchy title, which is easy to search. If you use the format "... Part x" in the title, people who are interested in the full back story can search for "Part 1". Saves you a lot of explaining, it's OK for new audience, and it's good for the dedicated fans. BTW, I don't know if it came through for everyone---if you make the rails out of cast iron, you can plane it in-house and scrape that rail really straight. Also, see if you can find a tool-post grinder, at least. The die grinder's spindle may not be accurate. With abrasive paper, 0.007 is a lot. You might need a stone wheel. Good luck with the casting. I'm also a big fan of Clark, so I'm looking forward to that video.
thanks,, I know it's review for some of you but 75% of the people watching have never seen the channel Just trying to keep everybody on the same page... :) Tool post grinder is too big to get up close to the head.... Need something that is small to machine the way that goes past the head by about 4 inches... Also this does not need to a be a one shot and all is well grind... With the outboard rails the ways can be checked often and then touched up where needed... Just like when I scrap something:)
Hi Steve! When the going gets tough----- the tough get going! That heart attack doesn't seem to have effected your little grey cells! My vote goes toward this working using something other than a die grinder! Best Wishes! Gary
Alternatively you could be like me and be lazy and just get a big roll of heavy paper like butcher paper and mount a roll at each end of your planer and just sit the bed on that so grinder dust won’t get on the machine ways. With a well applied vacc system you would not have much escaping anyway since your material removal is a small amount. No need to reinvent the wheel just change how you apply the one you have got.😊
Think of this as a portable line boring machine... A heck of a lot easier that tearing the head off , bed off and then putting it all back together and going through the trouble of scraping in the head back to alignment.. ( A real PITA if you have never done one )
I would probably find two old surface plates with enough length and align them on both sides of the lathe. Once you got them aligned to create a plane then you can shove the lathe in between them and adjust it so the spindle is in the same plane. Then buy a couple of linear bearings and bolt them to the granite plates and you have made a gantry style way grinder.
I also watch Keith Rucker vintage machinery and I think he has a 10EE doing the same thing curious as to whether or not yours is the same Yes I will Clark over at Windy Hill knows Keith Rucker also looking forward to the build and complex fix
Like everyone else - I am hear for the crashes. er - I mean the racing! 🙂 Love the ingenuity. That is one scary cut to have to make. One thing you are going to have to watch out for: flex in your die grinder, AND flex in what ever wheel or bit you use in it. I've played around with doing some grinding of hardened steel bearings set in the chuck (on my 10EE!) and ran into the issue of the grinning wheel itself deflecting. Will that cause any issue for you if it does?
I am looking at this as a hand scrap using a die grinder rather than a hand scraper... Slow and deliberate checking often with the indicators affixed to the sled will be a big help... Any deflection would be handled just like having to scrap high spots off with a scraper....
@@10swatkins Makes sense - and looking forward to it. It will be nice if you can "turn on" your angle grinder without it being in contact, and it will have that initial torquing motion that will make it want to twist as it is powered on. Thanks for the response - suspect you will figure out how to make this work - even if it takes an iteration or two
@@10swatkins Huh, never thought about it from that angle. I assumed you'd use the rails to traverse the trolley to replicate the action of a surface grinder and progressively straighten the ways. If you're planning on approaching this as a scraping exercise, why not rig up your Biax with an abrasive tool (make something from a piece of a CBN grinding wheel, maybe) in place of the carbide blade and perform the job as you would on a lathe that didn't have hardened ways? As is everyone else, I'm looking forward to following along with the progress. -Kurt
It can work but there are a lot of other factors. If you're satisfied the extra moments that you put in that you losing adjustment if you can overcome them I think you've got something. Because the outside housing of the bed is not necessarily precision getting it to run parallel and at the same depth it's going to be quite a feat. Sincerely Nick PS good luck I hope it works.
Earl there are other surfaces that were ground when they ground the ways... Those get no wear and are what I will use to verify the alignment. Also think of this as not a one shot grind like on a grinding table.. I can always detect the changes in the way surface by using the sled also as an Indicator holder... I can go along and tough up the surfaces much as I would when I hand scrape...
Small air grinders do NOT have preloaded ball bearings like a toolpost grinder. All that rigidity you talk about wanting in your iron guide rails will be lost in loose bearings. Bear that in mind. Also, you might be fighting wheel wear on very small abrasive stones. Maybe think about using CBN wheels, as they wear very slowly. Something resinoid bond should be good enough. I think the nickel plated wheels will just cause chatter and burning. Consider designing your iron rails so they can bear on the UNDERSIDE of the bed ways, where the uplift straps usually affix the carriage. Usually the uplift straps never actually touch, and there should be no wear on the bed under there. Best of luck. --Doozer
A tool post grinder is too big to get anywhere close to the head let alone past it by the three inches I need... The die grinder is as big as I can get into position to do all the angles... The rigidness of the rails is to prevent sag and alignment to the best it can be... I Don't think of this as so much of a grinding operation like on a grinding bed... I picture it more of a delicate hand scraping job , using a die grinder rather than a hand scraper... If this was 20 or 30 thousand I would have it apart and on the planer with a grinding rigup... This is only 7 thou and will just take patients.. Oh and with the rails and heavy sled I have a perfect indicator base that is not affected by any of the operations and can let me see how I am progressing at any time :)
@@10swatkins Steve, I am not saying to forgo using your die grinder. Not at all. Just saying be aware of the challenges of getting a good finish without pre-loaded bearings. Hence the recommendation of a CBN resinoid bond wheel. --Doozer
Just my 2 cents worth, make 4 rails not just 2, even if the extra 2 are just rough castings at the end You may change your mind about the design of the rails after you've already built 2 Worst case (with 2 only) would mean another trip to Windy Hill Best case, you would have a second set to sell off to another 10EE owner My father taught me this.. Why have only one, when you can have two at twice the price(now) and you'll have a (relatively) cheap spare, instead of paying through the nose in the future, when you Need to have another. Best regards from Australia
I think that is a great plan. I have never met Clark but I like him. I bet he can make some rails that fit your needs. Just be careful he has a dog that will piss on you.
As long as the spindle in the die grinder has no axial play where it might float in and out instead of cutting it seems like a great idea. Also if the angle that the grinder is set to is consistent along the whole way you can always scrape the saddle to match. Love it best of luck!
Hi Steve, rip it apart and mount it on the planer, perfect candidate for doing the job. Mount a toolpost grinder on the head. You can cover the ways on the planer with plastic sheeting. Coolant might be a problem, jury rig a pump. Cant see a die grinder being the right tool for the task. Unfortunately all machines wear out and so do we.
Willem, I went through the comments before posting because I was confident that someone else was going to make this suggestion. I agree with you completely. It just seems like a huge waste of time trying to reinvent the wheel when you've already got one. That little die grinder isn't going to provide the level of finish or accuracy as a tool post grinder, and it's not that big of a deal to pull the head off the lathe.
Being an inch/metric 10ee it is worth all the effort and time. I don’t understand how such an expensive and relatively young 10ee gets so much bed wear. Did the carriage oiling system clog up? The people who ran this machine were idiots
IT is worth the time.... The wear I can see being in a production shop... The crash and the the half assed repairs to the spindle and electronics are what pisses me off..
Have at it Steve, I know that you like the taste of grinding dust! Save some dust for Don, I think he will like it too. LOL Edit; I have heard that it goes well with Icecream just sprinkle it on!
I am still wondering how you get 7 thousandths wear in a hardened rail. Was this from a place that considered lubrication an expensive frill? I would have done the same thing except I would have used linear bearings and a precision ground rail. If I had the money.
I think that is a brilliant idea! I can't see any reason that it should not work perfectly, but the weak link is the bearings in the air grinder, if you could build something around a small tool post grinder with a proper spindle, or even a small bench grinder with two bearings set a good distance apart, it might be better. I am thinking that as the grinder develops more play in the bearings it will run out more and take a more erratic cut. I have an old Black and Decker valve refacing machine, which has a very accurate precision spindle on it, which is also very compact, and easily removable from the machine, but you can't have it! However, if you could find similar locally you would be adding another level of precision to the whole machine, even if you did use a sanding disc, as you say, you are removing 7 thou max! I have ordered my beer and popcorn! Phil, UK
Don't think of the grinder as a single shot grind and go on ... Think of it more as a hand scraper that can go over any part of the rail and touch up what is needed.. I can't get anything like a tool post grinder into that area beside the head... I just returned from windy Hill with the casting for the rails :)
With only having one shot at this to get angles and finish right.... Even though it is only 7 thou, I'd question if pneumatic angle grinder spindle bearings are going to be rigid enough to provide a precision surface without radial or axial deflection. Leaving ripples due to inconsistent speed or loads. Definitely not with a flexible sanding disc. A cup face wheel if trammed true to the surface being ground? Although leaving circular grinding marks. I'd speculate you will end up hand scraping to finish anyways to match the apron ways to the bed ways or visa-versa if turciting to restore apron position to whatever is removed from the bed. Maybe practice on a throw away lathe bed to prove your theory first? Mount that grinder to your planer to prove best results on scrap similar to the 10EE material hardness? I've known field service guys years ago with similar portable mills putting the crown back in press brake beds mounted exactly like your plan.
The whole point of this method is I don't just have one shot at this... Just like when I scrap in a way or edge I scrap a little and measure... Using the die grinder like a scraper tool.... IF all else fails I'll just rig the grinding spindle on the planer.. I am looking at this method hoping it will be sorta like a portable line boring operation :)
Don’t know how or if it would work but could you possibly mount the grinder on the head of the planer and use the planer to grind the ways rather than cut them?
I’m not crazy about using that little air grinder, it’s going to have runout. An NSK Nakanishi precision spindle or something similar would seem more suitable.
I hear you.... But I need something small to get in the parts by the head... This does not have to be a one shot grind... The sled can be pulled and the ways checked and then touched up, just like I do when scraping a part in :)
@@10swatkins 2000 series NSK spindles are less than an inch in diameter, I have a couple of the 50,000RPM 3000 series (30mm) units which I'm guessing are smaller than that air tool and although they are not cheap, they have a micron of runout and are made to precision grind. Even their handheld grinders would be more suitable than some non-precision air tool.
Skip the sandpaper and die grinder it will just chatter and glaze up after 12". Get a old bench grinder and a good surface grinder wheel wide enough for one pass width, maybe some coolant. ......
Is no one reading the comments?... Sorry but I have said this about 500 times.... There is No room for anything but a small wheel and head in there next to the head... I only have to take off at he most .007" and I have used sandpaper and flap wheels to remove steel on rails before... It might clog after a while but I am using this as a hand scraper and can spot work over areas... Thanks for watching... Sorry for being abrupt..
You and Clarke at Wendy Hill? I see breaking rotors in your future. Should be VERY interesting. I suspect ot will be a LONG video with motr yack than work but entertainment deluxe. Can't wait to see it. I think your plan will be derided but turn out to be a pragmatic solution to a common problem. Go for it.
Schaffer Grinding in LA reground my 10ee bed ways taking the absolute minimum of material off and it is accurate to better than Monarch specifications new from the factory. And it wasn’t very expensive. They even ground the underside of the outer bed ways so they are parallel with the top of the ways. The ways were originally ground by Monarch so the headstock sat right down on the reground bed ways and was so accurately placed it exceeded Monarch specs. No scraping required. You’re approach should work fine, but I’m not sure it will be as accurately ground as if you lifted the spindle off and had Schaffer do the job. Don’t get me wrong, you are a very smart and creative man so I am hoping it turns out fantastic. And, then you’ll get business from other 10ee owners. Life is an adventure. Cheers, Will
I know I’ve said this before Steve, but it’s difficult to see how this bed got to be so worn. The only thing I can think of is that the lathe was used for grinding, and the idiot who did it never covered the bed or cleaned it off. My South Bend FOURTEEN has a hardened bed. It was made in the mid 1970s. There is no wear to speak of. I’ve had it since 2002, and I’ve used it a lot. That’s what a hardened bed lathe should show after a fair amount of use. And that’s what makes this so startling. But then, this lathe has been so abused in so many ways, I suppose nothing about it should be surprising. Of course, once you straighten out the bed, you’ve got to straighten out the saddle. I seem to remember you saying that you were going to use Turcite.
Hi Steve, a point worth checking, the vee on some lathes is 94 deg. inc. and not 90 deg. I'm open to correction as I am not familiar with the lathe you are working on. Thanks for the video, always good stuff.
Frank what ever the angle is I can match it with the rigg I'm making... I am making the rails 90 to match the wheels I have already made... The ways on the lathe can be any angle and I might end up with different angles on either side as I might not have to take vey much on the operator side of the V... Won't matter as I am using moglice to perfectly match the saddle to the ways :)
Steve, why not use your existing 4' straight edge, get a second 4' straight edge and use them for the rails? yeah they will be bulky and a little more tricky to hang off the edge. but you wont be left with 2 large gobs of cast iron that you probably wont ever use again....
Do you have any idea of what another 4' edge would cost? I don't anymore but it would be 150.00 just for shipping.... Plus no easy way to adjust and fit to the machine,, I'm at Windy Hill in the Morning and we will cast the pieces I need... HEck of a lot cheaper :)
Just a thought, the idea is to get the ways to be parallel to a line extended from the spindle to the tailstock. If you put a large precision ground rod between the spindle and the tailstock and use this rod as a support for a "sled" to move along and grind the bed. Not as rigid as what you plan but with light cuts might be accurate. Your idea is great, you have the experience and ability to pull it off. Thanks for showing all this, looking forward to seeing the result. Cheers from fellow Texan.
The head is scraped so that the spindle is aligned to the head to the bed when it was made... By leaving the head on the bed and then aligning my rails to the bed I eliminate having to worry much about the spindle... There are unworn and unused surfaces on the bed that was ground at the same time as the ways... Those surfaces are what I will use for alignment... Thanks for the comment!
Take it from someone who is only an interested observer and does not know much about the matters that your are explaining. But since most of the wear on the ways takes place near the spindle and the rest of the ways (towards the extreme right) hardly gets to do any heavy lifting, would it be possible to simply turn them (the rails) around? That, of course, if the rails can be removed, which should be since you can send them out for grinding and there are no issues with the symmetry of the rails. Then the rail that is closest to where you sit would turn around and be installed on the place of the other rail. Likewise with the other rail, which would now be turned around and installed next to you. Now both the portions of the rails with the least wear would be close to the spindle and the heavily worn portions of the rails would be where they will get to do the least amount of work.
yep,, but I don't want to do it... I want to make a universal tool to repair worn ways without tearing it all down... Just scraping in the head to fit the ground ways is a real PITA and with grinding it all in place I only have to worry about maintaining the alignment of the ways .....
I want to do something similar to my 32" G&E shaper. What I'm starting with is an old military Dumore Versa milling machine. Along with the Versa I found a portable bed for it. My problem now is how to mount the bed to the shaper. Anyway, I am looking forward to seeing your solution. Good luck.
@@10swatkins Hi Steve, I realise that. I just meant you could maybe use the planer bed as a rigid datum to work off by mounting your rail system to that, then levelling the monarch bed in between them?
The rails I am making are going to be as good as a straight edge, I'm shooting for hand scraped perfection here and the rails have to be perfectly straight for 48 inches with no sag or flex.. I have never mesed with the ground rods but I doubt they can hold the accuracy I need...
good idea!! I wonder if the twist strain on the cold roll would be more than the twist moment of cr might even go thicker? In my vast lack of knowledge, it seems to me, that, although the grinder is putting a twist, on the deck, the spinning will eat the twist? I don't think you will be putting 5 ton of force on the. grinding wheel. please correct me if I am way out in Don's land. btw did he get a short cut or a trim? lol 73 dan
He got a perm :))))) IT's not strain or twist of the metal with the work.... It's making a very true 4 foot long edge that will not move and I can hand scrap to perfection... Steel moves too much...
No,,, steel will just move and trying to shape it on the planer would be hard,.. I'm in Mississippi tonight and will be at Windy hill in the morning.... :)
I think the plan should work but watch those die grinder bearings. I have a couple of 2.5" x 8" x about 15" 6061 drops as well as some 2" x about 4" x 6" A514 drops if you can use them on this project.
Do you think you can find a cup grinding wheel for your grinder? A sanding disk is not stiff enough to do the job. I know linear bearings are expensive, however you don’t get the grief of a wheel jumping off the track you designed.
I think he's intending to use a barrel sander, not a Roloc-type circular disk. The barrel sanders ARE stiff enough and he's going to be taking multiple, very, very light passes.
The weight of the sled will help with rail contact... There will not be a lot of force as I will guide the sled and can feel what is happening.. Points for the grinder are available in lots of different shapes but I am really limited in the space up near the headstock... Small is the key here and a cup wheel to do the flats would be over three inches where I can get a cylindrical stone of about 1 inch...
That's a though... I think not only because I need a lot of travel across the sled to be able to lay the die grinder where it needs to go... To get the back saddle rail it will be 3 inches off the side of rail... Thanks for the idea !
