We had a similar problem once in a small engine. It ended up being that the fuel filter was not the recommended for the engine, it was for particles of smaller microns and it ended up slowing the flow. The engine would not shut but it would loose power every 10 minutes or so, then, after a minute or two, as the flow regained volume, the engine would go back to running normally for another 10 minutes and so on. Replaced the filter with the right one and problem was gone. Not saying this is the problem here, it just reminded me of our problem and wanted to let everyone be aware of the possibility.
@German Bellini : I agree 100%. That is probably not the original, factory filter and it is definitely the wrong filter for that application. Mustie described it's inappropriateness for this motor and earlier in the video noted that fuel lines were not the same. Somebody probably thought it would be good to have a filter since bugs were renting room in the tank. The tank is plenty high above the carb. Just like on nearly every other small gas motor Mustie has worked on...he needs to ditch the filter!!! (Or install the "screen" version he described.)
On scooters, mopeds an all angine under 50cc you don't have fuel pump, this paper filter is not good. Change with plastic or metal net filter, problem solved. But in the same time check fuel cap... i have it this problem on one scooter... built vacumm in fuel tank.
It might of been in a unlevel location when the original owner , because of fuel line routing from the factory, and the size of fuel line can be undersized for the demands needed at rated operational specs .
@@jorgecostales8232 I had issuses with a B&S Motor on a small 2kVA Genset. It has the same behaviour . I took the whole damn thing apart but everything was fine. I was really close to give up. I realize at my last try that the rubber petrol hose was vibrating while the engine run. This vibration let the fuel stuck in the line. I replaced the rubber hose against a piece of rigid fuel line. After this the engine run fine without any further trouble. Maybe it could the cause on the genset in the video here as well. I got another bigger genset also with an 2 cyl. B&S engine. This engine got rigdid fuel lines from factory.
The first time it stalled was most likely a stuck needle. The subsequent times likely due to vapor lock. The tank design is poor. The fuel tank outlet is barely above the level of the carburetor and the fuel line long and routed in such a way that it picks up a lot of heat from the engine and stator. I made a video about a year ago dealing with a similar issue on a Ridgid generator with a Yamaha MZ360 engine. I found that everything ran fine when under load. But once the engine was nice and hot, if I removed the load the fuel demands would drop giving the fuel more time to heat soak in the fuel line and turn into vapor. If you want to reproduce the issue easier, replace the fuel line with Tygon fuel lines so you can see what's going on with vapor bubbles. Run the generator under load for a while to get things nice and hot. Then take the load off and it will stall shortly after. I would suspect the issue will be harder to reproduce this time of year since daytime temps are low. Ideally the pressure from the gravity feed fuel tank should push out the vapor when the needle opens. Because the pressure is so low from this tank, the vapor does not clear. The vapor bubbles are rising toward the tank. At some point the pressure from the bubbles pushing up equals the pressure of the gravity pulling the fuel down and the carb runs dry. Ridgid did put a sticker in the generator stating "Zero Gravity", guess they were not kidding. Generators usually have a flat bottom tank and the fuel outlet close to the carburetor, not on the other side of the generator. More recent Ridgid models have a flat bottom tank with the fuel outlet moved to the front. There was a recall on the model I was working on. Google "Ridgid 461218" to find the notice. Hope that helps.
g`day james i left a link to your video on this generator and same problem before seeing your comment i enjoy your videos i think i have watched them all ..you mustie and tyrell are my favorite small engine fix blokes its a bit early but happy xmas to you and the family...... cheers for all the content
I don't own a generator but by watching the troubleshooting, I'm learning a lot about the inner workings of one. I guess I'm just a sponge. I love learning how things work. The way you convey what's going on and what you're looking and your thought process is expressed very well. Some guys would just mumble and start fiddling and unintentionally leave you in the dark.
Man you don't quit! That was an entertaining and informative video. I think you nailed it with that deficient drop in height, and the gas filter location and drag on the gas flow. After that much time trying to figure something out, I am ready for the dynamite. Good job as usual Mustie1!
It's fun to have a coffee and watch someone who knows what they're doing repair things than to watch bandits destroy public property with their vehicles and burglary.
While not “exciting”, the video did show how a thorough, exhaustive, investigation must be conducted. We appreciate that part of our education too. Thanks, as always.
Not a 70%, you get a 100%. Love this troubleshooting video. Out of the USAF Maintenance, F101, 102, 106s, and F4’s all needed this detailed troubleshooting and determination. Many pilots survived due to this level of determination. Thanks Mustie.l
The bug is called an Earwig. And you should put spacers under the fuel tank mounts to get it higher above the motor. As is, if it is oriented the wrong way on even a slight incline, it will starve for fuel. 1 inch spacers will do the job.
I was surprised throughout the whole video he didn’t tip the unit as part of the troubleshooting. I couldn’t figure out why he didn’t, probably he knew it would just die I guess.
And double check that both the wheel diameter and “skid” height on on the bottom front of the frame are to spec which could also tilt the entire unit to the point that fuel flow is hampered.
Hi Mustie, you have quite possibly tried this before but in case you haven't, I was faced with the same problem as you recently regarding junk in the bottom of a fuel tank. This tank also would have been laborious to remove so instead I used a length of clear hose to syphon the dirty fuel and "junk" from the bottom of the tank in a similar fashion to "vacuming " a swimming pool. It worked well, saved a lot of time and the hose being clear meant that I could see the progress I was making! I hope you this idea may be of help to someone else in the same situation. Thanks for another great and as usual, very informative video. I feel that I like many others I have learnt a lot from you! Cheers Robert (Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺)
@@shawndouglass2939 no matey sorry! I have lived here for only 14 years or so and therefore I still have about 40 years until I "might be" considered a local!!👍 Cheers mate
James Condon did one of these on his channel. Same issue, the fuel line was vapor locking when it got hot and ran it out of fuel. Rerouting the fuel line took care of the issue I believe.
When the carb has a drain, a good way to see the fuel level inside the carb while the engine is running is to put a piece of transparent hose with the other end above the carb and open the drain. The level at the hose will be the same of the bow.
I've seen that kind of a blockage in a semi. A loose wire in the tank went up the fuel line AKA allen wrench, and block the fuel. The bug I Believe came from manufacturing before the fuel tank was put in place.
@@teddypilny9404 Typically, bugs get in when refuelling, usually through a funnel that has been hanging up or laying around in an outbuilding. It is particularly common with garden maintenance stuff like mowers and brush cutters, but anything which is likely to be filled that way is suspect. I always make the first step on troubleshooting such issues a clear fuel line though. It just makes everything so much easier.
I did see other generators of the same as this one, and some have a paper fuel filters and others don't. But one thing stood out in all of the others is the fuel line location from the fuel tank to the filter. They show the fuel to be located just as you moved it to the proposed location at time 47:22 in your video. So, yes you are right about the high elevated fuel causing an issue. Hope this helps out. Also raising the tank is a great recommended option from other viewers.
This is the kind of invaluable troubleshooting that I have come to enjoy so much from your videos. I know it’s a lot of extra work to show the troubleshooting process, especially with something like this where you don’t have a pretty good idea ahead of time what the problem is, but I really appreciate that you go to all the extra work. Thank you again!
Troubleshooting skills my A. He confirmed early on it was fuel. Saw contaminated fuel and cleaned the fuel system except for the hose to carb connection. A place very prone for crap to get stuck. The exact place where he clamped the hose after the first test and the machine was fixed. Flew right over his head. However the fuel filter not having enough flow is another good theory. Don’t listen to all the nonsense he said about air in the lines and in the fuel filter. There is always a little air in lines and the filter. The excess air in the system only becomes a slight problem when starting the engine. The height and the slight bend in hose is fine.
I agree with the filter. I'm told that the paper type filter is to be use only with a fuel pump. The red one should be used on gravity feed. Keep up the good work Ron's Small engine Service. Love all your videos
Big DR Field and Brush mowers use the same fuel line setup with the same paper in-line fuel filter. They are also gravity fed from the tank (tank equipped with red screen filter inside). Same level routing to the carb, seems to work fine although I wouldn't do that design.
@@pville5548 the only problem with that is the red "filters" don't do anything and are junk, I run paper filters on all my garden tractors and they all do fine and only one has a mechanical fuel pump, the rest are gravity fed, the red disc filters will let contamination into the carb 100 percent of the time
I agree w/ several comments: Just rise fuel tank some 3", (I'd use urethane truck body / frame spacers), and re.route fuel line and / or shield it from generator / engine heat. Most likely it'd work better. BTW: Yamaha 4 stroke engines are quite reliable.
your joking right? that tank height has nothing to do with it. all it needs is a 1/2" drop when the tank is all most empty,, a full tank half a tank, 1/4 tank all give a ton of head presser,, stop and think man..
@@arnoldromppai5395 Liquid head pressure is only about 1/2 psi per foot. When the fuel level is barely higher than the carb, the pressure is practically zero; not nearly "a ton!"
Great video again, I wish you all the success possible. I have worked on small engines for 50 years. ( not bad for being born in '64) I know that fuel filters that have a paper medium starve gravity fuel systems. A screen type filter should be used.
Possibly a couple different things contributing to the fuel issue, low elevation tank along with the paper filter. I think you nailed it. I give your diagnoses a 95%. Thanks Mustie, Merry xmas!
The stuff you learn on this channel for FREE is just priceless! I love how he gets to the ground of problrms to learn whats going on! Thank you Sir !!!
one of our plate tampers at work, when the fuel gets low starts to sputter and run rough, eventually dying, but by low i mean an inch or 2 and not completely empty when it dies, I suspect the vibration causes it so suck some air when the fuel is only an inch or two, and that is not the only small engine i've experienced it with, just the most recent. Great vid, great content.
While I found the over all video interesting, I think your description of each diagnosis step will be very valuable to me. This your 1st video that I have watched. Great job.
I’d relocate tank to the upper side of orange rails/bars/pipes, opposed to under mounted like it currently is. By doing this you raise tank 1”+ solves many questions in one easy move
Your vids are the best i have found probably 8 things and repaired them using knowledge you taught me.2 i kept 3 i gave to family and 3 i sold on for a nice chunk of change.great to see you back and healthy and keep the videos coming
Set the tires on a 2x6. That will raise the fuel tank outlet by 1.5 inches while the carb will still be at the same approximate level. It will also eliminate the fuel line from running uphill.
The thing that is so appealing with your videos Mustie1, is it feels like you are right there with you in the shop, looking over your shoulder and contributing to the repair. So glad you are back from the Covid and not having too much longhaulers! Videos on Wednesday is such a treat! I too have learned so much from this channel! Happy Holidays to everyone especially Mustie1 and family. Thanxz
Testing the hypothesis: if it starts to cut out again with a small amount of fuel left, tilt the machine to raise the tank a few inches in relation to the carb to see if the engine then runs OK again.
I have this same model and it has been incredibly reliable. I did the fuel line adjustment because it did the same thing, run and shut off. Once I made that adjustment it never shut off again. It takes care of our home whenever we lose power with no issues.
Mustie1, you have taught me sooo much on troubleshooting engines and electrical issues over the past few years. Thank You so much!...... I have had success in finding a few problems and then correcting them . Love your show !
Instead of rerouting the fuel lines, I would just raise the tank. The way the line goes up from the fuel tank, made it my first thought of what was wrong. Great video as always.
change out the fuel lines AND get the smaller filter, remove the possibility of a combination of minor problems, Great video as always and very helpfull
Hi Mustie, i have noticed many many new RU-vidrs comming on line recently I have been one of your subscribers for a good while and most seem as if they have been in the front row of your master class on small engine repair . I have gone from not caring about small engines to actually working on my on and picking up a few along the road...lol and have some sucess Thanks Mustie1 I hope you are here for a very long time! It doesn't matter what the patients are.😢
The fact your problem arose when the fuel pressure decreased by lowering the level of your tank pretty much sums up the problem. I would consider removing the filter and see if that takes care of it. If not, replace the fuel lines to eliminate any chance they are causing a restriction. Thereafter you can even consider raising the tank, if that's possible. You should also identify any source of heat by the lines which could be causing vapor lock. I think you have this figured out. Good luck.
A vacuum pulse operated fuel pump would be better than raising the tank. I'd change the lines and if the problem still exists, I'd just add a pulse pump. They are used in situations when the fuel tank in not in an optimal position.
We had one (not the same model) at work that did the same thing. We removed the tank assembly and remounted it on top of the bars which gained a little over an inch in drop. That fixed it. We also just make sure to keep it filled regularly during operation so it never gets that low. Great job troubleshooting!
Wondering why you never put a small temporary fuel tank on top and feed directly from that. That would eliminate all the potential gravity feeding etc. problems you were suggesting.
Love your videos. always very instructive. I think you are right on this, but always good to "work the clues" like a whodunnit and arrive at the likely answer. Agree about slight constriction with the inline filter but height is the main thing I think. I don't have a problem with those filters if there is plenty of fall from tank to carb, but otherwise just where you have vacuum pump. If possible, pack out the tank mounts a bit to raise it up enough for a decent fall, but failing that advise owners to run with no less than x full. Easy workaround that saves giving away a great generator ($1 is as good as giving away!)
You finally got around to what I was thinking...the fuel filter. The surging just before it wants to die is a major clue that it's starting to run lean, especially as the fuel level got low. I think that, in conjunction with the paper filter causing extra "drag" and the relatively flat fuel line without much of a drop in distance between the tank and carburetor, combined to starve it for fuel. IMHO
Yes, I have a Deere tractor which uses a similar pleated filter, but only because it has a fuel pump. Plain round filters with little metal screens tend to be better with gravity fed systems.
I was shouting 'fuel filter!' 10 mins in to the video. Just because a filter looks clean does not mean that it is not contaminated (ethanol fuel and water strikes again?). Strange that the filter also allowed so much gunk to pass through. The clips on the filter makes it looks like an OEM fitting but a bad location to have an unsupported filter. I wonder if the engines had problems with water and the factory added the filters later?
I probably would have ran it with a external tank to see if we could reproduce it. Completely isolating the suspected tank and line setup. This way if it did go out we could rule that out completely. I like the idea of a clear fuel line too, but I would only do that if the external tank didn't show any issues.
You and James Condon covered this very well and it was on pretty much identical generators. I believe James had warmer weather that pointed toward vapor lock. I like the idea of "re-routing" the fuel lines or perhaps adding spacers to the fuel tank to change the flow of fuel to a more downward path. I can't tell on the video if the design would allow for that option to be added. Either way I believe a lot of this type of generator design with the lower fuel tank can cause this issue.... Or just don't let the fuel get too low !!!
I think that pleaded fabric filter is adding just a little bit too much flow resistance when the fuel level is low enough. I believe the red fuel filters have a relatively fine but free or flowing wire screen inside. If you were to check the fuel flow at a low fuel level, after the fuel filter, I think you'd find that the flow rate would be low enough to starve the engine. Great video, thorough diagnostics, and spot on with identifying the issue! Thanks for sharing
I was always under the impression that those filters are only for the bigger engines with the diaphragm fuel pumps as you mentioned. That was my I tail thought. Great vid once again 👍🏼
I repaired and owned this same exact generator and I had the same issue with the fuel flow. I was able to solve to problem by rerouting the fuel lines a little lower. The lack of a significant elevation change in combinations with the restriction of the float valve just doesn't fill the bowl fast enough when the fuel pressure decreases when it gets lower in the tank.
I love this diagnostic step by step approach. The comments are rewarding in that they have excellent spelling and punctuation which so many social media posts do not have. That definitely says something about the level of intelligence. Cheers everyone !
Have to agree about fuel route. If the gen is not on a perfectly flat surface, and low on gas, would have to starve. Appreciated the frustration. Had a Datsun 710 that would run well, or not run a block without dying. Tried everything. Finally pulled the tank, cut a hole in the top... and found a gas station paper towel that had turned to almost plastic had somehow made its way in. When it would float to the pickup, bingo, no gas. Once I cleared it, resealed the tank with aircraft caulk, it was never a problem again! Like you, I don't give up easily, that's why I like your videos!
I agree that clear fuel line is a great idea to be able to see what's going on. @Mustie1 to prove your theory you could simply tilt the generator to give the fuel continuous fall. Then see if it will keep running when the fuel gets low. Keep up the great work. Glad to see you are back to good health.
I'm surprised you didn't try a different, temporary fuel tank positioned much higher above it, along with some different fuel line. Perhaps the solution is to modify it to position the fuel tank higher up. Good job, as always. I learn so much! Merry Christmas!
Also expected you to pull the tank and give a good clean-out. That nasty bug was definitely large enough to block the flow. What is that red thing in the tank, too?
I agree with the folks suggesting raising up the gas tank a few inches. To test the theory, why not just put a simple can of gas on top of the existing tank and run a gas line to carb from it. Strap the gas can down with something then let her rip for as long as she'll run. That should let you know soon enough if its due to the line from original tank being too level with carb. Great stuff as always!
Great to see you this morning. I agree with you, a new fuel line, change filter, reroute fuel line, maybe raise the fuel tank an 1"or 2". As always really enjoy watching your program. Take care 👍
My guess is the paper filter. Fuel additives are oil based. The oil saturates the paper and prevents gravity’s influence for natural flow That is why 2 strokes have strainer filters
I can't believe i sat thru the whole video and no fix. i belive if the tank was full she would run till gravity got low. bad fuel design maybe some kind of simple fuel pump and a different filter and no bugs in the tank... great video well done.... i am a new subriber...thanks for the lesson .
I paid almost $700 for mine when I bought it, then another $75 for the extension cable. One of the best investments I ever made. It's easy to move, has a nice, long runtime at half load, hooks up to our 30A transfer switch, and has enough power to run both our lights (all LED in the house), and the water heater or any other large draw appliances, one at a time. It's seen us through dozens of outages, some as long as a week, and was the primary power source for a couple of Ham Radio Field Days. Excellent unit and I envy you getting it for $1.00
I would suggest a set of 1/2 to 3/4 inch spacers under fuel tank mounts to raise it for test purposes and possibly permanent if that is the fix. Great video. You kept me going with the anticipation of the fix.
I had the same POS for my teardrop camper. Mine did the exact same thing almost immediate after purchase new, bought mine from Camping World and they tried to fix it several times without success. I finally tore into it and it turned out to be a fuel line issue. Once I got it so it would run without shutting down some turd stole it along with the two fuel cans and the entire metal trailer hitch rack I had it chained to off the back of my trailer.
@@M.TTT. I replaced the rubber line with a 3/8 metal line and replaced the filter and fuel valve with a Briggs and Stratton 612 combination fuel filter assembly. A bit overkill but I needed it to work because I don't camp at places with power hookups. Insurance paid out more than what I had invested in it so I replaced it with a small Honda gen and a roof top solar. I'm a retired jet propulsion engineer so I have a tendency to overbuild everything, at least thats what my wife says anyways.
@@robertheinkel6225 It does okay, it keeps the batteries charged up so I have reading lights at night and I can keep my phone, iPad and laptop charged up. I try not to run the generator that often just because I like the silence of nature. I built my trailer so I have a water storage tank with a reverse osmosis filter on it so I can have fresh potable water at the galley when needed. Water pump requires the generator and drains the batteries pretty quick to fill a thirty gallon tank.
I agree with another commenter, if it were mine, I would add some 1" spacers under the tank to the frame. Providing more pump "head". Good troubleshooting skills! Congrats!
Looking at the parts breakdown the stock fuel filter is a screen type filter. Someone added that paper filter which I can pretty much guarantee is causing the problem. I've dealt with this on motorcycles before and if there's not enough pressure pushing through the filter it will cause all sorts of weird running issues. Replace that paper filter with the stock one and I bet it will work fine.
@@bittertruth6575 the filters position won't make much difference in this case because it's the amount of head pressure that determines its ability to push through the filter. Velocity is going to be the same everywhere in the hose.
It only has 20 hours on it. I would guess the filter was replaced because of the running issue, likely when the carb was replaced. But I agree, install stock type filter, fill the tank and run until dies. Should make 24 hours with a good load.
@@michaelslattery2121 yeah the running issue was very likely something else. Either the stock filter was clogged or someone took the shotgun approach and replaced a bunch of stuff one of which was that filter which caused the current problem. It's also possible someone replaced the filter as an "upgrade". I've seen that happen before on motorcycles
@@DoRC There is a pressure drop across the filter - the more restrictive, the more pressure drop.. in a gravity feed the pressure is a function on gravity and head and if you drop more across the filter, you have less to push the flow and the flow will be less too.
I remember yrs ago, a woman brought her car into our shop complaining of it dyeing on her a few times. after checking ignition system, fuel, compression, timing, we could not replicate the problem. I even thought it might be a coil problem when it got hot. after another time dyeing on her we dropped the gas tank and found that she was putting additives in the gas, and the seal from one of the bottles was plugging the fuel take-up
Another great video, clearly a fuel problem. Change the height of the back by moving the wheels slightly differently. Possibly that solves the problem. Happy Christmas from the Netherlands!
I echo what a few have already said: with the fuel line so close to level, even a small incline the wrong way (driveways usually slope down away from garages) would elevate the carb feed to level or even higher than the tank level. Certainly slow the fuel feed rate.
I just watched a James Condon video about this type of generator and he pointed out that on newer versions the tank was redesigned so the outlet was closer to the carb instead of the long line that passed over several hot points along with the up/down hills of the line itself.
Mustie1 you are absolutely spoiling us with another midweek mustie1 video. You totally just made my day so much better got up this morning threw my back out on top of herniating another disc and pitching my sciatic nerve. Charles needless to say I'm going to be laid up for the day for sure and this just made it that much more tolerable thank you Darren truly truly do appreciate all the work you put in your videos for us and through all the years of growing your channel you're one of the few RU-vidrs that I watch faithfully and the big part of it is nothing has changed yeah you have a better shop and you do some builds that you could have done in the past. I like to think you're a really good place and you get to just truly enjoy wrenching in the shop with us guys and gals.
You are a treat, just found you, enjoy your Tinkering,. Not many bugs left, so I thought it was the bug or acorn shell. Thanks for a fun Saturday and night. Via conference dios, Thanks young man, when I started talking to ya, you took me back in time!
Sir, I really admire your tenacity and thoroughness in troubleshooting the generator issue. Now the questions arise. 1. Are you going to keep the generator after putting all of that time and money into it? 2. If you are going to keep the generator . . . What would be your asking price? 1 cent? $2 for the cost of the yellow gas? 2. Put the generator on EBay for a quick $250? 3. It looks like you’re an outdoorsy kind of guy . . . Maybe rent it out? Big bucks are in your your immediate forecast. Your long white hair 🧑🦳 looks fantastic!!! Michael Myers NorCal
One of the problems I have seen with this generator is that because the fuel line is at a very low (almost parallel) slope is that if the generator is sitting at an angle the fuel indicator will show inadequate fuel level at about one to one and a half quart. There is more fuel than the indicator shows. It is at an angle thus creating an upward flow for the fuel to travel. Which you know this is not possible. The best thing is to ensure the generator is as level as possible. The generator at an angle of six to ten degrees in either direction can cause low to slow to no gravity feed to the carb. The generator didn’t really act up as you had it at a almost level operation. So if the tank level shows fuel and it gets moved and is sitting at an angle is most likely the cause. Hope this will shed some light to the problem with this generator you are working on. Great video. I love these small engine videos you produce. Thank you.
Here is my opinion, you are the ultimate CSI Miami agent or the highest paid back yard mechanic. This is bro love talking but thank you for all the content for the years I have followed and watched!!
As a last ditch I would make some spacers at the fuel tank mounting points and raise it up roughly an inch. I agree that that is a mariginal design on their part. Nice work Darren !
I had the same thing on a mower. There was one of those round paper circles out of a lid ( it seals the lid on a bottle or can.) It would start floating when the engine started and vibrated or with the rocking motioning of mowing . Same thing happened on a old Briggs and Stratton horizontal motor , it had a splatter of solder that walked around the bottom, that took me awhile to figure out because I thought it was a soldered spot in the tank !!!😊 Also I saw somewhere that the paper filters are for engines with fuel pumps and the ones like Briggs and Stratton had , the small inch wide or so filters with the micron screen in them were for free flow lines . I believe that is the correct way they were used . 😊
I had an old Briggs push mower that would start fine run maybe 3 mins and shut down, then after a minute it would start easily, turned out to be a loose intake valve seat,took me a while to find it, good video 👍
I don't run element style fuel filters on engines without fuel pumps. Just run the small screen style filter. Don't know if someone replaced the filter with the wrong style unless you look to see what style filter it was designed to use.
EDIT: I suggest replacing the gas line with a clear plastic braided fuel line and either a new fuel filter, a different sort of fuel filter, or simply no fuel filter. It could just be that the fuel filter is defective. With a clear fuel line, you might be able to see something that isn't visible yet. With a clear fuel line, you'd be able to see if there is any vapor lock in the hose. Also, it might be prudent to remove the fuel tank and shoot it out and make certain it's clean. That bug was an "earwig," they're pretty common. They're harmless but they're ugly. Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. BS'D
agreed and check the fuel switch aswell. apperently not that uncommon they have flawed designs. the one i had for my boat engine had 3 layers of rubber that had to lineup and after a lil bit of useage the middle rubber moved freely which means the vibrations made it open/close by itself
That's funny. Right when I saw that filter I was thinking how bad that type is and they should be using the ones with the little brass screen for flow. Anyway thanks for taking us on the investigatory adventure.
I think it was a combination of the bugs occasionally obstructing the pickup tube then the fuel filter adding to it. When the fuel got down to a gallon it could not compensate for the multiple restrictions. Enjoyed the video.
Similar problem on a yamaha pressure washer. Ended up being the oil level. The oil pump would get oil up into the head, but the oil return holes in the head gasket was too small, so the oil would build up in the valve cover and lower the oil level to below the low oil sensor and kill power to the ignition. Wait a couple minutes, oil gets through the return holes, and back down to the crankcase and covers the low oil sensor, and it gives power to the ignition and the carburator solenoid and now you've got spark and fuel again, until the head fills with oil and kills the carb solenoid(float (bowl will be empty) and ignition. We've also seen that issue from using too thick viscosity oil, takes too long to return to the crankcase. 5-w30 works good on these.
This is a great video. I don't have a generator but I really enjoyed your detail. I think the bug surely needed to be eliminated to go further. Looks to me that you fixed it. Poor fuel design. Lift the tank up to get better flow. Keep your eyes open for more units, you'll be rich.
Don't do this to me... I'm retired. I have enough problems trying to figure out what day it is without you popping up with another video midweek... I thought it was Sunday!
I think you nailed it... I've had good luck with the little triangle shaped stone filters with gravity flow tanks. They filter a little better than the red screen ones, but still flow well. You could raise the gas tank a little too.. with some washers or something. another thing I thought of was perhaps the float mechanism is a little tight, and requires a bit more pressure to open and let fuel in.
It's important to note that even a slight tilt backwards (handle is pushed down) would bring the fuel level even lower and the carburetor even higher, perhaps enough that the carb was higher than the fuel level
I was thinking the same thing. I couldn't tell if the tank is sitting on top of the panel. But I'm thinking 2 or 3 metal rings under the tank would resolve this.
FYI , there are two types of fuel filters . One made for gravy feed , the other to be used with a fuel pump . The filters for a pump are finer , more restrictive . I think if change or remove it the issue will go away . I would also raise the tank at least a 1/2 inch higher . Has the tank been removed for cleaning and lost mounting spacers ? Does it drop in from the top or from underneath ? Put a 1 inch lift under the wheels for testing purposes . It doesn’t look level on camera 👍
100% this. I had this EXACT issue with a ride-on mower a few years ago & it had one of these clear filters fitted. Replaced it with a proper Briggs & Stratton red filter, issue solved!
Just for the hell of it, tilt the machine towards the fuel pickup end of the tank when it starts to die so the pickup is under the level of the fuel. This might confirm or deny any problem with fuel starvation or air in the line when the fuel gets low. Nice vid. Good luck.
I vote fuel filter. I have a CPE generator that I added one of those paper filters to the fuel line. When the filter was new it ran OK. After a few hours of run time I started having problems with fuel flow. Those paper filters clog easily especially from bad gasoline. They can clog in a few minutes from old or bad gas. I recommend replacing that crap paper filter with a B&S style screen filter, and using a good fuel treatment for you stored gas.
I think you're spot on with your diagnosis, looks like a poor design on the tank side, can you rig up your fuel tank to give the fuel flow more gravity/ get the tank higher like you've done before etc?? As always love this chanel! 👌
I would look at the jet/needle valve as long as the hoses are clear. Had almost the same issues on a '56 Ford that I had rebuilt the carb on and the seat for the needle valve was loose, because "someone" hadn't tightened it down properly. Would run fine then stop, after a few minutes break fire right up and repeat the scenario until I nursed it home and rechecked things.
