If you want more holding force get a clutch designed to work in a truck or RV. And one other thing: "Torque doesn't mean Power" clutches don't care about power. They only deal in torque. And the balance of a clutch has nothing to do with the performance of it, unless you go above a specific RPM rating. I can burn up 20 clutches for the cost of one of those rip-offs. Lighten the car, that will give you more response from the power output. Change the tire material for better grip, and dyno tune the ignition at the RPM range you will be using. Some minor changes in the bearings and higher pressure oil pump with an oil cooler will give you safer top end red line.
I don't know everything about clutches, but I do know a little. I watched this to try to learn, and I picked up a little, but mostly I was correcting nomenclature in my head the whole time.
I went in watching this wondering why there were so many dislikes on an informational video but after reading the comments I realized why. I'm no car guru myself just learning stuff but the video was still cool, regardless of the verbal mistakes.
I'm looking at getting a multiplate disk and paraphernalia as I'm afraid of burning my clutch prematurely with my very dynamic driving. Older cars are so much fun to play with
Toasted my stock Luk clutch at the drags. Got a Bully Stage 4 sprung six-puck. Works great, can daily it just fine and is more than enough to hold the power. Definitely worth the cost imho
I've had ceramic clutches before. Some are un-streetable in that they will bark the tires due to no spring on the disc. The clutch is either in or out not much slippage to get smooth shifts. The other thing is unless you use a hardened flywheel they will wear out the flywheel in no time.
+George Montgomery My Saturn Vue does that in 1st gear... I get the clutch bite and rev the car to start moving (or it dies) But if I let the clutch out just even a tiny bit to quick it spins the tyres. Are these things related to your comment you think? Note: (When I'm stationary) I have to keep the clutch in and rev the car to about 2k rpm before it will start to move. Then I let the clutch out fully after about 4-6mph and I can then shift through the gears normally. That is to get the car not to squeal the tyres. If I do it when I was a newb, I would rev to 2k rmp and then as soon as I felt the car moving I would let the clutch out and then go. Which spun the tyres.
@@fastmadcow fwd cars will behave like that with any aftermarket clutch that is more aggressive than stock. Doesnt take much to chirp or even spin the tires on fwd and though a ceramic would do that even something as low as a 4 puck sports clutch would do the same.
I bought a Competition clutch, stage 3 for a 94/LT1/ T56 firebird with minor upgrades and it did not last more than 20,000 miles on the street. It grabbed like hell but it wasn't great for the street. Just a heads up for anyone considering that brand.
Rebuildable or not, if you use an unsprung friction plate clutch with a standard oem syncromesh gearbox, you'll be rebuilding your gearbox AND your clutch. Crank harmonics. Look it up. There are different clutches for different applications. It's not a simple case of more expensive is better, not in terms of longevity or torque holding capacity.
mnm m: Did this video "inspire" you to go touch some clutches/flywheels/pressure plates??? "Inspiration" and "role model" are not something to take away from this video. Your ridiculous comment got 14 thumbs up... ??? WHY? Must be 14 millennials who just got done playing Gran Turismo. You spelled "you're" wrong too buddy. YOU'RE not good with communication. Perhaps you lack proper inspiration in your life.
@@fwh79FOXR6 I agree.. plus the guy said high end clutch discs are mainly metal, so it would be metal on metal.. not much friction there and I'd imagine it would last 5 or 10 miles? Lol I made it under 6 minutes in, he's awful.
Very good video here you can say that you will have quality according to what you want to pay, the other day my grandson who goes to bed and gets up thinking about sports cars, he got a turbo kit that he ordered on ebay was very happy, he put it in the nissan 240sx he has, he started the car and left like a bullet, before the half mile was spilling oil everywhere but he pay for shit and shit has.
which is best clutch for swift LUK vs Exedy vs sachs ? if price not issue? just need strong reliable clutch and best quality, nothing fancy or any stunt car !
If u have to remove the transmission to replace less parts in the clutch it really doesn't matter at that point. If the clutch is removed might as well replace it with a basic one. Unless ur a race kid
You did nothing but point out visual differences - this was helpful because I didn't get the magazine 'Highlights' as a kid so I don't know how to spot differences.
Dude literally knows jack shit about clutches and u can tell he just made the video because he happened to have them around. Basically just points out all the obvious shit. Doesn't take note on the material or crimping stages. Everything he says is like...well yeah no shit.
GodSpeed lol he said clutch one little metal, 2 more metal makes better....?. 3 says will be more metallic but it's carbon (non metallic). Metal on metal is never a good friction. Always metal on silicate/ceramic.
Crimping stages are part of the manufacturing process in which a crimping machine folds over two pieces of metal to keep them together without the need of welding or press fitting. Crimping is done in stages. Therefore, crimping stages.
1st clutch light pedal good feel and will last 150,000 miles if driven with mechanical consideration and can usually take 50% power increase. 2nd clutch heavier pedal not good feel harsher bite will last ??? No need to take your left leg to the gym. 3rd clutch on or off. All clutches are balanced by the manufacturer. Do not buy top branded clutches off ebay 99% of them are fakes
I remember watching the video of that 900hp MRS with the K swap that clutch grabbed the best on the last run. The clutch was smoking like crazy the whole dern time talk about overkill!
So the cheap clutch is quieter and lasts longer. Can't handle driving hard because??? It won't last as long? While the expensive one has a couple more rivets, doesn't last as long because you drive it harder?
Thanks for the comparison. The visual differences are well illustrated. So balance is key. And also component replace-ability. How does that work? Do you send it back for re-balancing when you replace a worn disc or busted fingers? If so this would truly be a lifetime clutch, which would make it somewhat cost effective. If not I think the mid brand would probably give you longer life for the same money. I guess it all depends on your application. A daily driver probably goes through 4 clutches in in a persons lifetime (my experience) and a race car maybe one a race tops? That would be 12 clutch pushes per clutch. Or about $200 every time you put your foot on the clutch. Cha-Ching!!!
I've also never heard of carbon fiber holding more when it's hot, I've always heard the opposite. The only reason they use it is it has a high heat tolerance and is light.
do u have a any suggestion for clutch kit for car racing starters? btw i am living in a cold place so i dont know if the 2k clutch is good for my car acura el 1997
I might be stupid but that $2000 clutch is going to be out of balance rather quickly once it has some miles on it unless carbon clutches don't produce dust. Also I can get a "perfromance" carbon fiber clutch for my truck for about $250. So I can't fathom how that clutch cost so much.
Dank Solution won't hear me complain. I usually go for a trans capable of significantly more than the power I'm going for and then my clutch can still be able to handle more than the power being run but less than the trans so if something does go out the clutch and typically the pressure plate is what goes rather than something else more expensive or harder to take apart. Not that I want my clutch to go out just prefer it over other drive line parts
I put a heavy duty clutch in my Mustang it was a 1985 and believe it or not it got slower, so for all you people out there that have a little better than stock cars or a stock engine don't go put a heavy duty clutch cuz it will slow down your car but if you have a let's say 450 horsepower car and you would have to go with a little better clutch
Man I just bought a cb7 and it's got a brand new stage 1 clutch in it. Every time I just try to drive normally it shakes the whole car when the clutch engages. Should I just put a OEM clutch in it. Just want it to drive normal it's none stock any way
All clutches/ flywheels ARE balanced...relatively. It's not NOT balanced just because it doesn't have smooth round shape design like that 2000$ carbon disk clutch. Altho its got random areas of uneven metal around the edges, the actual weight is still distributed evenly around. If it was even slightly off it would vibrate and shake your engine to pieces
