I got to work on some of my stuff sometime been busy with other people's projects I got new tires and a sprocket for the storm in try and get that and the ducar mounted this weekend as I need the 196 for another project
Hi ephenj! I picked up the Tillotson intake at Turk Brothers Racing. $49.95 plus shipping. Kinda pricey for an intake but with the carbs priced around $14 shipped it's acceptable. I looked into the VM22 intakes to try and make something work by maybe drilling the pulse passage on one but the VM22 intakes are too big on the ID for these Tillotson carbs. A short piece of 1" ID tubing and a couple of 1" flat washers would work if you want to fab a home built intake, just remember to drill the passage for the carb pulse.
I feel like they make great mid to high end power. Kinda have to roll into the throttle no matter how I tune them. But work great if you understand what’s going on. Not awesome for extended idle times when the engine is hot. But start up is good and run strong as hell. But races ain’t won at idle now are they. lol.
These little Tilly clone carbs are a good deal. Even if they send you the smaller venturi carb it's still much larger than the stock Ducar or Predator carbs. Thanks!
@@KentuckyFriedFixes im gonna try one out once i remove this gov what do i set this Lash at again the gauges i bought only start at.005 or sum shite im a newbie so i have no idear what is what man i put a motor on a frame so far and stage one with 38 jet nothing else just messing with sprocket clutch ratios im doing good on a 13tooth tho but def want to get more out of her and see what she can really do stay blessed
Chris, I have a tillotson carb on my vintage kart it has a west bend 820 two stroke. It won't run ast a few seconds and it pours gas out of the carb. Is it a Reed? Not at all familiar with these carbs.
If it's in the carb it may be popping the needle off the seat or you may have a busted diaphragm. A kit is usually around $10+ If you have a bad reed that's not sealing on the West Bend engine, that can cause back pressure in the carb too. Those carbs are meant to take around 10psi before the needle pops.
The main thing is don't be intimidated by these Tillotson carburetors. You'll get it working. They're really easy to work with and the design is perfect for a good performance engine application. Almost every time I had a failure it was due to a busted diaphragm. I was running Methanol so it was not out of the ordinary to rebuild the Tilly every 5th race or so.
There's a throttle kit you can purchase at EC carbs. It includes the top mounting bracket and the clevis to attach the throttle cable. You can make your own but the kit is only a few bucks and it will give you an idea of what works as well as a pattern in case you want to make your own in the future...
Hi Staleoreo! I read all comments on this channel my friend. The Tillotson clone intake I used in this video was purchased from Turk Brothers Racing. They're not a channel sponsor or anything but I've purchased tons of parts from those guys over the years so credit where it's due. I did save a few bucks as well.
To me, there's not a lot of performance in the stock Honda style carbs. It really depends on the type of engine you have. A stock engine will work well with a stock carburetor. You can install the larger stock carb (GX270) to gain more throttle bore and venturi, but you're still left with a poor jet/fuel delivery design. Everybody has their own preferences for the type of parts they prefer. I used worked stock carbs on the flathead Briggs engines years ago and I thought those were great until I tried a Tillotson. That's when I found there are much better performance carb options available. Today we're kinda lucky as we have those options available for not a lot of money. The Tillotson style carbs are great as are the Mikuni style slide carbs. It's around a $50 investment in most cases or less if you shop around. In the end it's up to the individual. If everyone liked the same thing it'd be a boring World for sure.
That's the exact link and I've ordered multiple carbs. The first one they sent was a "FULIN" brand with a black grommet on the adjustment screws, the rest of the carbs I received have been marked "Tillotson" with a red grommet on the adjustment screws. I have no idea why there was a difference? I was perfectly happy with the "FULIN" and ordered another, but I jumped for joy when I started to receive the "Tillotson" branded carbs with the larger venturi from the exact same link.
Also, keep in mind these are supposed to be Tillotson "clone" carburetors, not the real deal. It's probably a Tillotson clone carb body with genuine a Tilly stack.
@@RACE.KART.PRODUCTS Turk Brothers have some deals on air filter adapters for the Tillotsons. I'm not certain if they have a correct ID adapter though. The intake is kinda pricey for these. I think the next one I do I'm gonna look at modifying a $20 Chinese import aluminum intake. Or perhaps a piece of 1" ID tubing with a couple of flat washers welded on. I don't like the $50 intake cost when I can get the carb for $13! But I guess it still beats the $50 intake with a $129 carb.
The Tillotson style carbs are much better than a stock type carburetor. They feature a diaphragm pump that actually pumps a shot of fuel into the throttle bore rather than relying on vacuum to pull fuel in from a float bowl. The fuel flow is regulated by two separate tapered adjustment screws and lets you adjust fuel flow at low speed and high speed individually. You can add more pump blocks to increase the fuel volume too. It's very much like a vacuum diaphragm fuel injection system. There are drawbacks though. You really need to use these with a vacuum fuel pump for best results and for multiple pump "stacked" carbs that typically run methanol fuel, you have to remember to keep the engine off idle as the carb can pump more methanol fuel into the engine than it can burn. Too much idle time with a methanol Tillotson will wash down the cylinder walls and get into the oil. Other than that, they're an awesome carb for high performance engines.
@@KentuckyFriedFixes I've always just got a bigger Jet and used Honda carb. I am definitely the type that stays with what I know. But since you are saying that I am gonna try something different. Both my engines are screaming like scalded dogs with the Honda carb tho
@@JBBRAD9267 It never hurts to experiment. I think a good engine builder should always experiment with new things, always continue to learn, and always look for more performance on every build. It's the only way to stay up front IMO.
So far all I've received have said "Tillotson" except the very first carb I ordered, it said "FULIN". Though I've noticed a few of the "Tillotson" marked carbs have had different sizes on the venturi bore. Some are larger than the others for some reason. I'd like to have more of those!
Tillotson confuses me 😳 I don’t get their marketing… they make tillotson branded clones of themselves? 🤷♂️🤔, so I can see how you ordered two clones and one came tillotson branded , someone in shipping had a liquid lunch, you know them folk in Ireland have a bottle opener in their tool kit! 😝😂😂 ✌️🤙
I don't know Rawb? They're probably both made in China but it would be nice if the made in Ireland carb was genuine Tilly. I doubt it is. I've had Chinese Mikunis that had "Japan" on them too. Thanks!
@@KentuckyFriedFixes 😂 exactly 👍 dunno if anything is made in Ireland , have heard about that with CCP MIKUNIS BUT I DONT UNDERSTAND THE WHOLE CLONE THING REVERSE engineering I get ! But down right copy? Whether there’s legal get arounds cuz of inferior material, processes QC, royalties? Etc … lol it makes no sense .. it’s like ford selling an f-150 for $50k then on the same page selling a cloned f-150 for $33k exact same badging 🤷♂️ oh well just blabbering now… sorry ✌️
