Should buy 2 identical Holzfforma chainsaws, leave one completely stock and do everything possible to make it run and cut as good as possible. Port and polish, bark box, have Gordy tune it, put a nice square grind on it then run them side by side and see how much of a improvement your able to make
I have one of these, bought it from FarmerTec under a different brand name but it is identical other than the color. Believe it or not, the little thing will start to behave itself after five or six hours of use. Mine needed to break in and then after it did it has run incredibly well since. And it still starts on the first pull. I dropped it, unfortunately and can't patch the huge hole I cracked in the oil reservoir so mine is out of commission, but all in all I was damn impressed at what the little shit brought to the table for $150. If I had to guess I'd say I ran it for 50+ hours before I wrecked it, but other than the extended break in period I don't have a single complaint. Thanks for the video, and that was a badass climb!
@CaliforniaCarpenter7 interesting that is started running better. I wonder if there was some gunk in the carb that cleaned itself out? Can you explain your running issues? I was listening to these guys talking in the video about how they had to tune it to run mine runs exactly the same.
Excellent video as always but with one suggestion. It seems to be a trend these days that in editing much of the work positioning (limb walking, rope setting etc) is edited out in favor of showing every limb cut. I noticed that when you walked out on the first limb it cut to the cut and skipped the actual limb walk. In fairness the walk back to the stem was left in but we can can learn so much watching you move out on the limb. Not every limb cut is a “hero cut.” Thanks and keep it up.
noticed that too. the first two videos of the new editor were tight, but now its cut, cut, cut, cut... i think a little bit less cutting would be beneficial!
Dropped my first decent sized tree today. Most of what I learned has been through your videos man. I'm now enrolled in climbing school. Keep up the Soilid work hopefully I can grow a company here in my area. Thanks Jake stay safe out there
@@davidfish7901 I took a Utility line clearance arborist course here in California, PG&E sponsored it. They taught us a lot of good stuff I just googled it. I’m sure you can find something good in Missouri
I own 3 of these INEXPENSIVE chain saws. I use them for trimming from my bucket truck. Great for trimming with the top handle design. The only thing to do is put another knot at the end of the pull cord...the pull handle will otherwise pull off. Other than that, the saws start and run very well.
Gordy is already making parts !! Y’all should get together and bring America back into the chainsaw game !! There’s all kinds folks building saws like IRONHORSE , Dyno joe , sawdaddy from Midwest muscle saws . It be the ultimate saw 🙌🏼
I've had one of those babies for over a year now; love it! It's much lighter than the old 200t, "cheap as chips" and you don't have to worry about someone stealing it from the back of the truck. It's 25cc. The only gripe I've had is the fuel lines are nasty and soon get full of pinholes (due to cheap, nasty Aussie petrol).
I was told doing my climbing training in Ireland that you need to always have a fabric point on a steel lanyard. Basically put a really small sling on one of the carabiners that you use to attach it to you. One as you pointed out in the vid, it's a break away point in case the limb it's around snaps and doesn't pull you with it but more importantly if you need rescuing the rescue climber can just cut through that sling and get you safely to the ground. With all your body weight hanging from the lanyard very hard to undo the carabiner and free you.
Same as Zenoa. I have the farmertec "joncutter" equivalent. For $100 shipped, with chain and 12" bar, it actually impressed me. I've had it for 3 or 4 years and it still starts fast. Starting to leak gasoline though. Mine has a point for a lanyard.
I am impressed with the trim saw. Tempted to order one. You tree climbers are amazing. I think the little saw was frightened when you went above 75 feet high. I know I would be. My palms were sweating watching you limbing the top.
Speaking of you get what you pay for, I won't ever forget the time I bought a new Stihl (this was 30 years ago). I had researched the rated power output vrs. saw weight and bought a Stihl 036 pro. I was amazed that some heaver saws had less power. People made fun of me because the saw was somewhat expensive relative to others but I did not realize there were "home owner" products as well as "professional" saws. Runs great and I still have it today and it has never been apart other than filters, sprockets, bars and chain. Guess it was not a bad investment.
Yes sir! I ran a guys 36 PRO and it was a beast for the weight ratio. Not so much for a reg 361/2 tho… The PRO, yes. It handles like a hot 250 supermoto. Light, flipable,
Oh, and those on off switches are really touchy. I've turned my saw off so many times, especially in winter with gloves on, thinking something was wrong with the saw, and noticed that the switch is off. Once you know what you are doing, you will just flip the switch and restart it. But, the first few times, your going "what the heck"
No its because fuel line with filter in gas tank. Fuel line is just not enough flexible and block in one position. When filter is blocked just cant suck fuel and stop working.
I have that little saw too, she’s a good little runner, mine started off strange plug was gapped to .50, wouldn’t start, then idle was too high, still revs too much, but she cuts fine. Another vid I watched said to tune it to echos procedure with a tach. Definitely impressive for the money. Thanks
I bought one of these a few months ago. For $100 it runs pretty good. I use it to limb trees after falling. When it wears out I’ll upgrade to the Holtzforma you used on a previous Cottonwood adventure.
@@ScarletKnightmare it's not really light weight for its size. For example the echo saw that's 25 ccs is 5 pounds and this saw is around 10 pounds which is the weight of other top handle saws with around 35 ccs engines .
@@mrtree1368 we must be talking about different saws because I own one and there's no way in hell it's ten pounds. Maybe 7 pounds wet with a scrench attached. Will weigh when I get home from work
I was literally looking at that saw on Amazon earlier today, lol there is one cheaper for Only $88, almost pulled the trigger just to see. I have been dying to by that same saw for quite a while.
I got the same saw a few months ago for $119. mine definitely runs better than yours though, mine is a little screamer and doesn’t bog or die. I was pleased for the price.
I brought one of these last week from ebay Australia $100 USD under the Bahmer brand came with an eyelet bottom rear right corner. The saw is great I used a 6 litre/ 6 quarts empty oil container sliced down the middle as a bar oil drip tray. It will live in the back of the pajero/montero for fallen limbs when out 4wding
And Jake you can definitely cut through a steel core flip line almost as fast as a rope flip line I mean they're a little bit tougher but trust me you can cut right through them fast
He had a video on the old channel where he physically did it. Was not easy or fast, by any measure. Have you tried a brand of steel core flip and actually cut it, and done so easily? Highly interested.
@@WildAcresFarms oh yeah buddy there's plenty of videos out there I've never done it myself to be honest but I see in the videos on the internet it happens fast with the steel core flip line I always thought it couldn't happen fast like that but check out some videos it's crazy especially if you hit the saw right into it at a high rate of RPM it's over
The same type of saw with a 10” bar are available here in Australia for around $140 AUD so you are paying a lot more. I’m on my second one just now but I don’t use it for much bigger than 3” diameter. The first one lasted 5 yrs and died when the fuel connector from tank to fuel lines shrank and fuel couldn’t be pumped from tank. I’m still using the cutter bar and chains from that saw on the new saw.
Love when you and Gordy are rockin it together! I’ve got to get some WCS stuff… I want a rake gauge bad!!! LMFFAO! They look really awesome!!! Just love your video’s… stay safe and prosper !!! Jedi-Treeson, son!!! 😂😀😀
That looks exactly like Husqvarna T425 that ive got! 🤣 With a muffler mod and timing advance, different bar and chain and it cuts fairly well but its no 200! motor is good but handles and everything else is guite trash...its made by zenoah in japan so parts might fit to that chinese one...And your bangin the wedge in the tree with Fiskars axe! Fiskars is from Finland and me too! 😁🤠👍
Where the bar oil and fuel fillers are located looks a lot like an Echo I had many years ago. Maybe they cloned an Echo like Holtzfforma cloned the Stihl 200T.
it does come with an attachment loop you probably just missed it... Ive watched a few youtubers and these saws seem to go the distance....I dropped mine 40 feet no damage... just some suspension points came off... also they call for 25:1 mix... it seems very similar to the joncutter the only difference i see is this has 2 bar studs and the joncutter has 1
Good catch about the 25:1. I saw another youtuber mentioning that as well. I think it was DMN Saw Shop or something like that. I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but worth a try.
@@happycamper6352 I doubt it would run better the one i have always starts off bogging the same way... once it runs it runs pretty good though... this is one of those times when china got it right
I love it! Went to drag out my polesaw’s to do some lift and thinning and the guy and I decided that the 24” diameter oak that had experienced some storm damage In it’s top … that was about 12’ from the front door in the middle of the house was just ugly and it needed to really go to improve the overall curb appeal… I took out everything and just had about 35’ of 2’ thick oak stick…. I was thinking I’ll just cut myself a box like I’m on the left coast and my 36” bar is all I have for that 7-8’ diameter redwood… so my “chainsaw chainsaw!!!” fell a 2’ plus diameter oak tree in the front yard! The downward angle cut taking out my face cut wedge was absolutely hilarious as I didn’t have the bar length to cut out my center meat so I had to cut away wood to get that little saw in… and trying to rip oak with that little thing on the angle across the grain was just crazy! It just needs a real Walbro carb kit in that carburetor… a steel ring with a 8” nylon wrap around the handle like for the older saw’s works great for a lanyard for them … you would be way more happy if you spent the $10 bucks on the real diaphragm kit and rebuilt your carburetor really quick… I just found an old top handle Stihl climber bar and 3-4 loops that I grabbed somewhere along the way it’s a 14”? So I’m going to be adding the decent bar and loops to my “chainsaw chainsaw!” So she’ll cut like a peach after that upgrade… the first thing I do on the Chinese saw’s is grab a good quality bar and loops… that’s a huge upgrade and it’s actually what really really matter’s… an engine is an engine if you get it running good then it’s good enough… but a great quality bar and a loop of RS or Oregon totally changes the cheapest saw’s real cutting ability and it’s feeling… that “chainsaw chainsaw!” With a little loop of Stihl RS is a totally different animal… I just love that it’s an adjustable carburetor and an open can or muffler because they aren’t ruined by all those USA epa design concepts like trying to make a catalytic converter muffler for a 2 stroke engine chainsaw… just so so stupid… be far better off with all the repair shops across the country doing a free tuning clinic on one day of the year… Earth Day… the best way to save our atmosphere is to teach the average homeowner types how they use those little screwdriver’s properly and what they are looking for in a proper tune… a little $12 dollar Amazon tachometer/hour meter with the little wire tail that wraps 4-5 times around the spark plug wire is all that’s needed to get most saw’s dialed in decent and just a tad rich… 40:1 mixture with a semisynthetic after the regular 2 stroke break in process… and we can get our $100 dollar junk saw’s to do a decade of work for the average bear!!! I absolutely love the cheapO China saw’s… these past 13 years have taught me a lot about the little 2 stroke engines and building saw’s is the hobby that probably saved my life… ! You can carefully remove that cheapO diaphragm from your cheap carburetor and soak it for an hour in ATF and the lubricating properties of the ATF will soak in and soften the cheapO diaphragm material and she’ll purr like a kitten afterwards… it’s really fantastic stuff for several different types of projects around the shop… and garage… ATF is some really good stuff and not everyone realizes all it’s “other” plus’s opposed to the making our automatic transmissions go down the road… it’s got a ton of cleaning and lubrication properties and anti corrosion ingredients that makes it really fantastic as the main ingredient in our “magic shop lube” metal thumb oiler can…. Dollar General Store’s have those old fashioned metal thumb pump oiler can’s for like $6 bucks apiece… they are $30 at a real hardware store… so if you are ever near a “Dollar General” get you a couple of those cheap oiler can’s as they are fantastic and there’s several different mixes that really make your life way better to have around… with just a regular 32:1 mixed gas mixture in one when pulling out an older saw that’s not been running in a while a couple shots down her gullet will have her Coughing and spitting right off… and that pumps up her own fuel mixture via the impulse system of the carburetor like a purge bulb would but the old saw’s didn’t have those… so it’s just an easier time to talk them into getting started again with a couple of those little drinks of the dyno juices opposed to a dozen yank’s on her pull cord…. $6 bucks apiece on those Dollar General “metal” thumb pumping oiler can’s is a fantastic deal!!! Just that left over 5w-30 or 10w-30 that is leftover from the last oil change in one of those cans is fantastic to have around for that Squeaky door hinge or wherever a little shot of a oil is needed around the house or car… and it’s just super awesome to own several old fashioned thumb oiler can’s of various different products like a real man in the 70’s would have had around his house and shop!!! Or, like my grandpa had around his shop and in the garage of the house… a little shot of you leftover oils saves a bunch of cash yearly over various spray cans products too!!!
sometimes I pour the gas in the oiler. Then pour the gas out of the oiler and into the right hole and she smokes everywhere but runs real good. Im not sure if shes got extra lubrication or the oils are incompatible. But it hasnt broken the saw yet. Starts everytime on half a pull. Thats the big 5200. not the tiny boy.
Great channel. Love your vids! I have exact saw, but WITH attachment point and 10" bar/chain. Runs great, but wouldn't want to beat up the plastics. Its 25.4cc. I got mine for $88 on Amazon just a couple weeks ago! LOLOL!!!
That’s the prob tho is the quality control you can have one like yours that runs great an another that terrible lol most the time the problem the carb on these cheap saws if you just put a good carb on most the time they run decent
I remember when those saws were 80 to 90 bucks a couple years ago . But I saw ones with actual oregon bars . I would only get one as a ground saw or pruning at ground height to save some use from my more expensive saws. I'd say the cheapest you can go and still get quality is the brand redmaxx they got a a couple top handle saws you might be able to pick up for a good deal if you find one somewhere
Iv used red maxs I think they are a shindawa off brand wich makes great weed wackers and blowers. Iv used a ton a crappy saws lol so I know first hand that there nothing more aggravating than a saw that doesn’t run good when up in the tree omg it can really ruin your day lol. The saw seems to be ok when it’s running like the power does not seem to be terrible but have those fuel issues when you turn in the side suck lol. I’m not one of those guys who are brand specific ya there some models of each brand I like more than others but as long as it runs an gets the job done an isn’t a total dog I don’t care about brand name. I feel a lot of time we end up paying a lot extra just for that sticker on the side not only with saws but most gear an equipment.
I wonder how it compares to the JohnCutter 2500 which seems to have the same stats across the board. I have the FarmerTec G111 as a back up and after a coupe of swapped out parts for OEM parts, it’s a really great and reliable back up saw. I mean it can’t hurt for a $100 for a back up to the back up saw lol.
I have the Farmertec 2500, been using it for a year and a half now been a great little saw, have to open up the exhaust though, have a video on my channel of the stock vs moded exhaust
@@redbeardtree1776 I’ll check it out bud thanks for the info. The G111 works great and I use it almost daily when I give my MS 200t a break or it’s down due to a part.
Need to open the exhaust up, I have the Farmertec 25.4cc JonCutter G2500, and I opened it up to 3/4” and it runs awesome I have a video on my channel of it stock vs mod exhaust, not a bad saw for $150
Clone of Echo cs271T, another of the same dips Timberpro CS2500. 25 CC. Just repaired one with leaking tank inlet grommet. It hardened up and wouldn’t seal. Installed a thin o-ring onto the grommet and bingo no more leak. The echo part IPL looks identical. The timberpro bend gas the landward bracket
Jake you are the man, you have inspired me to get into climbing trees, I'm 41 years old but I'm still pretty spunky lol, so I have applied at a few tree companies to start. Every job I have had I learn fast and move up quickly, I'm I to old or should I go for it
If you know and understand the risks, it's good honest work that will have you proud of what you do. Always be alert by balancing work, eating, and sleeping so that you're at 100% every time you pull the trigger. I'm much older than 41 and am not looking to quit any time soon. Every tree is different, and maybe that's why people don't get bored with it.
$1630 msrp for a 500i with a 32” light bar vs $1k for a Makita +$180 for a Stihl 32” light bar + port work. After you get the Makita back from porting the 500i has paid itself off plus you have the resale value and Stihls support working for you. Value saws may cost you more in the end over buying quality……
Do it sir...I am 58 and Jake inspired me to do my own arborist work on my 20 acres in southern Ohio...I started helping people I work with instead of them having to pay for having it done. It is a joy to do hard work and rewarding as long as you follow the safety!
@@fella704 stihl 1926 first eclectic power saw dolmar 1927 gas two man saw stihl first gas power saw one man 1929 rumor has it dolmar worked for stihl and left to open his own company taking some of the designs from stihl
I've owned a top handle that looks just like that for a couple of years now. Picked it up in a big box hardware store, paid $99AUD - that's maybe $70 US. I have run the idle screw in enough that it revs pretty hard, but it does run until it runs out of fuel. For the money, I love it...👍🪓🇦🇺😂
Love the video!! What are you doing listening to a logger?!! LOL!!!! I think it goes with out saying that we need more of this!! Lots more!! Thanks guys!!
I have that exact chainsaw chainsaw. I haven’t treated it the best but I have been beating on it for over a year and it still runs like a champ. Mine came with an attachment point on the back. Chainsaw chainsaw
32:04 - "Droppin' a log!"...Mate, you're a hundred feet up, in a tree you're cutting into bits, trusting you're life to 2 skinny bits of shoelace; I'd be "dropping a log" too, but mine would be softer and browner than yours...😂
I like to always make my back cuts some where between 1 to 2 inches above the apex of the wedge notch face cut, so the piece most likely does not kick back once the hinge liberates.
Like that about the chainsaw chainsaw, I bought the the same 2i had a caribeana clip, it wouldn't run so I bought a new carb and opened the airfilter and the exhaust so it was sucking and blowing a little better its been better but doesn't perform when it gets hot, to be honest I think the fuel tank and the crank are not sealed to good so air gets drawn and cuts performance, that's the only thing I can say, also the coil may be affected as its getting warmer I've had that problem with a stihl before, maybe a coil upgrade too, if you can find one to fit or engineer something to it, but then you get what you pay for, other than that it's got a great little ergonomic body and has potential but needs a good engineer to address what ive said.. Good work guys keep it up. All the best, Steve. uk logger
What an awesome saw! You never have to sharpen the incredible "Saw Chain" brand chain. At $135, ...you just order a whole new saw kit for every other tree job. Then sell the last one on Craig's List for $50. What a deal!!! j/k =O)
Back when I was a climber I ran a Red Max top handle saw … which was a really sluggish saw, I don’t remember how much my dad paid for it … But this saw cuts circled around it .
I have the same saw but I only paid 110 for mine. I can flip it any way I want up side down ,side ways what ever way and it won't die . I even dropped it from about 70 feet up and it fired right back up. For the price I could not go wrong, I love it. However like the one you have i even hit the kill switch by accident more time than I like. The other thing it takes a mix of 25:1 so you have to make sure who ever helps as the ground man that the don't put in the wrong gas mix
I saw some people had to tighten a few screws when they got the same chainsaw even the carburetor had to be tightened to the engine.... I bought the same chainsaw and I bought the one with the clear gas and oil tank both chainsaw run great i have no problem with them the one with the clear gas and oil tank starts on the first pull every time.... I don't know if you ever tried that one if not you should if you do you will be very surprise on it's performance... Great video
