If I were you I would just get a cheap spray can of rust reformer for the frame components and spray the rusty areas while the bed is off. Keep up the great videos though!
Hard work there, about your body work skills it takes some.time but you will learm, best way to repair those is to cut the old metal and fabricate a new piece with mew metal, if you train in a old car i bet you will be mastering that in no time. You should sand the chassi with a brush and spray it with black chassi paint taht can ne used in rust, easy, cheap and makes it look better. All the best from UK
I lived in upstate NY about 40 minutes from Middlebury. It was so nice to see good deals on rusty cars and trucks in VT since so many dont wanna pay for body work because of inspection
@@amejia3305uuujjeggtt nopw, as long as your frames not rotted, brakes are good and your windshields not cracked youll pass the safety inspection. Emissions/lights on dash will fail you on emissions and youll fail overall
cool videos I used to live in new hampshire north Conway now live in Montana no inspections here live free or die I was during so I left.keep those videos coming T.R.
You should reach out to Darren (Mustie1) in Plaistow and have him give you some welding/fabrication lessons. It's would be quicker and easier to fix it right with a metal patch and welding is not hard.
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 I'm sorry to hear that. You're off to a good start. Someone with more experience should mentor you. If you were closer to SC, you'd probably enjoy spending a day with Jay Smart.
Be prepared for some of the sockets to be bad on the tail light wiring harness. It is a known issue. They will look a little burnt or crusty down inside any they will give you all kinds off intermittent issues if they are bad. So if you end up trying a few bulbs in a socket and its causing issues best just replace them.
Weld a hook to your tractor bucket and build a capital I out of 2x4s standing on end and use a chain to hold it up then put it in your bed to replace it on the truck. Those straps slip or break with you underneath it and your toast. Nice video keep up the good work
@@lh5422 Bodymen everywhere always disagree with Bondo. The fact is that if it isn't a structural piece, it's not a huge deal, and the costs for repairing with patches up here (if you can't do it yourself) are so ludicrously high that most Vermonters can't afford them.
Aw little tip for the hcrab corners or any rust....use fiberglass filler. Would be better ....bondo for finishing touches . 😀 Maybe change the filler neck too while its accessible? Its pretty rusty no?Love your vids
Trucks are the easiest to do fuel pumps on BECAUSE of the fact that you can take the bed off. Guaranteed it would be way more pain to drop the tank off that thing from underneath. This can be done in an hour by yourself .
SleepWalking they should just put an access panel. That would be the smart thing to do. But they don’t make it easy because they want you to got to a dealer or mechanic.
Brian Djordjevic just don’t run it low on fuel all the time, I had my 07 Colorado since new, it had 190000 miles on it before a new RT Ram pickup made a left turn in front of me and totaled it out! I kept at least a half tank all the time, it never went out! It’s funny I live in Arizona and my truck had zero rust on the frame! Or on the body, the paint was faded the truck looked ruff but no rust or dents until it got totaled!
@Nabbot Figger Please keep your racist username to yourself. Even a nine-year-old boy like yourself can find more productive things to do than post your negativity (and bad spelling) on a video you didn't have to watch if you didn't like it. What is wrong with you?
Hey there :-D I've changed many fuel pumps and it's always that dang locking ring that slows me down. Taking the bed off was a breeze but still needed help lifting it. Mind you, i was only using hand tools to do all this. No impact wrench :-\ Anywho..It's still a good truck either way :-) Ty for the Upload :-)
You should fix the tailgate handle while your in there. Fill those tickets with cavity wax. Do they make cab corner patches for that truck? Hole seems small enough to use a patch with panel adhesive to attach and seal out water and salt
Great video. I found this series pretty informational, along with Adam Davenport's video on replacing the fuel pump. I may be undertaking a fuel pump replacement soon on my 2012 canyon, and I have some questions, mainly with removing the bed. 1. Which screws are the ones holding in the tail lights? Do the lamps come out as one assembly? Or do the covers and bulbs come off separately? 2. This might seem obvious, but I just want to make absolutely sure before I go into this. Do all the screws around the filler neck come out? I was looking at mine, and it looked like one or two may be for something else other than holding the mouth of the filler neck to the bed. 3. Where is the location of that last tab you found before you lifted the bed off?
What were the Check Engine codes? When I had my 05' Colorado with the 5 cyl, it misfired because of a "common cracking problem" with these heads. Luckily, it was under the "10 year/100k" extension warranty Chevy put on these. Cool, you got a 4x4 for $400! Don't put your head between ANYTHING that could crush you, personally knew someone that didn't make it from doing that. Don't forget safety glasses, $3 is cheaper than whatever hospital bill you might have to pay because of an injury. And be careful grinding around fuel vapors/fuel, it won't explode like the movies but it WILL catch fire. Thats a keeper for $400!
Is that a 4 wheel drive Colorado? I'm just curious. Don't worry about the bondo job. It filled a hole in a $400 truck. It'll work well enough for now. Good luck on the sticker. *:-)*
I bought a 04 Colorado for 600 and its awsome it needs some frame work and muffler because of rust but it's a good truck good on gas just wish mine was stick
Fiberglass, is much better for rust repair, the resin inhibits rust by sealing metal, Bondo tends to. break and the rust keeps getting worse. Glass work fairly easy and fast.
Great vid, are going spray chassis rails to stop corrosion? Liking repairs, surprise there’s no servicing floor panel in truck bed, my Holden Commodore ute has floor panel n same with Ford utes except after AU models. Enjoying repairing work👍
Should be using a fiberglass filler like tiger hair ( a fiberglass filler reinforced with fiberglass strands which would make it a water resistant and stronger repair. And I would spray your frame and under body with undercoating like woolwax or a mix of 60/40 used motor oil and bar and chain oil mixed so to resist the tons of salt sodium and calcium chloride that’s slathered on our roads instead of plowing and sanding. Gotta keep them flatlanders on the roads with their summer tires don’t ya know. At our expense.
Really learned some stuff here, they should have a acess panel in the bed, would be too easy . For a rust killer, I boil any old vinegar down a little, will turn rust black overnight ready for prepping and paint also good for rusted tools for a soak. Cool headphones are they with a Radio?.
Out of curiousity did you take the bed off for another reason besides doing the fuel pump? I did my buddies 06 Colorado fp in about an hour just lowering the tank by removing the two retaining straps. I just used a floor jack to support and lower it.
Fix the rust and keep it for that price! These go 250k before needing a new timing chain (dual chain setup and it is a ROYAL pita to do). With a 5 speed these are great little trucks
dafuq are you talking about? i've never seen one go more that 180k without skipping a tooth due to the stupid guides that wear out and make the chain rattle on startup. we had to redo the heads on the automatic 2wd we owned and we got rid of the 4wd one we owned before it damaged the motor under our ownership
One thing that iv learned from having one of these, is that the frame can go bad easily on the older colorados, ik because I had to weld a few plates to the frame and where the rear right leaf spring meets just by the cab, i could put my whole hand in it, i suggest using Por15, on that frame before its too late
Good luck with that truck. I got a GMC version of that 2 years ago with 126,000 miles. In the year I owned it the engine blew (replaced with a rebuilt engine), 2 fuel pumps, 2 transmissions, both front wheels broke off while driving (2 separate incidents, 1 at 70 mph) the driveshaft fell out while driving and my girlfriend's foot went clear thru the passenger floorboard while driving. Not only the worst vehicle I ever owned, but worst I've ever heard of anyone else I know owning.
If it has no rust, it should be fine! If it were 2 years older you wouldn't need to pass emissions either, too bad for you. good luck and don't go to a dealer!
A Rural Vermonter - Qqjmcb 182 thanks. Maybe ill run the FL plates i have until i actually need to update them. Trying to get used to the snow now lol. Drove up here on all seasons and of course everywhere is booked for tires.
@@narcisbaralija I drive a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 with rust. Since I bought it in Michigan then drove it down. Tranny was already slipping, it gave out in Oklahoma so had to buy a new one.
How much in total did you pay to fix everything give or take 100 . Or would it be better to just buy a more expensive rig? I'm tired of my huge tundra.
Hey I don't know if you would be interested but I have a 07 Colorado with a bad I4 motor (rod knock) if you're interested in Parts on it I can pull them off and send them to you. there is not a speck of rust on my truck so if you need anything that's been rusted out let me know and maybe we can sort something out.
God I want to meet u so bad dude u live in Vermont your not to far from me maybe sometime u can drive to orange massachusites in the 400$ van I can show u my racing mower and my 205 bicycles that i fixed and repaired
