@@jayheredia6975 check out Mr. GunsNGear's test on it. It's actually not bad. It'll take a 5-6 rounds of 5.56 which is all I need it to do. The drawback is the outer edges. That's where some protection is lost compared to more expensive plates.
Because the back face of the tiles isn't flat, I would suggest trying to bond the three tiles together with tile adhesive or one of the construction adhesives. Those ridges on the back concentrate the stress in certain areas of the tile, but filling them in so the rear is flat should help spread the energy over a much larger area and also more evenly in to the tile behind... which is what you want.
@@spacemanbill9501 liquid nails! It's ridiculously strong, it's impossible to take building materials apart that have been glued together with it. Like you can't salvage boards and stuff, it just splinters and bust up every you try and separate. Try using it and video it!
@@ericbest9562 something that rigid wouldn’t absorb the energy of the bullet effectively. Need an elastic substance, something that is squishy after it sets, think silicone sealant.
@@spacemanbill9501 non-Newtonian to a degree like that cornetarch shit that hardens on impact, can you think of anything? Yo L might would work melamine foam and like other types of reticulated foam could potentially work because they’re extremely durable. Are you dense weight?
I did just that but I use fiberglass resin and I sandwiched the plates with it. Kind of heavy and thick but it stopped the bullet. I was pretty impressed. I have regular level four plates and they're about the same weight
You can buy UHMWPE sheets from Grainger in thickness from 0.0625" up to 4". You could replace one ceramic tile with a .25" thick sheet of plastic for $25
@@evansaw293 Why it would be added in the melting and forming process kinda like glass filled nylon. Not as a layer by itself which would become a cloud of pain after a strike
Another idea to improve the paper sheets is to later them with some form of glue or resin is you can find it cheap enough or HDPE shopping bags melted could work
It's essentially Papier Mache. White glue (Elmer's glue in the US) is really cheap and designed to stick paper or wood. It takes a while to dry if you make several thicknesses of paper in one go, but it produces a very strong, dense material, especially if you alternately layer the paper with the grain at 90 degrees to the previous one.
@@704TACTICAL bad news: Your not getting rich from your SAPI plates. Good news: You saved a few lives by making this vid! This is definitely an effective URBAN style (Office Depo) SHTF, quick-fix-till-we-get-to-the-gunstore piece that anyone, except for those on Rx stimulants, can create.
since you nearly stopped the 5.56, maybe some kind of steel plate could be the backing of a reduced number of tiles? the tiles seem to do great at shattering the lead projectile enough for it to be caught. rock on man!
Hi, from my experience a little mistake was to stand the armor in a slight angle, so there was space in between the armor and the plate. I think the last round would have been stopped completely if you would have had anything behind it. Real bullet proof vests also need something behind them to work best.
I did something similar. I used 3 tiles I got from Home Depot for a $1 each or less. Each tile was individually wrapped with newspaper and duct tape. Then I wrapped all 3 together with newspaper and duct tape. I made 2 as well. The first one I just did 380. It lasted about 10 shots before 1 made it through. That was out of a ruger lcp. Second plate I used 45 from a 1911. I did 5 shots and all went through. Then I stacked the remaining plates and used 7.62 x 54R out of a 1941 mosin. Absolutely demolished it. I was about 10 yards out. I think maybe a plate of iron/steel in the back with 2 ceramic tiles in the front could be interesting. In a SHTF situation I’d wear this if I had nothing else. I just ordered some AR500 10x12 plates though for the vest I got. Costed me about $100 for 2 plates.
Might i suggest cutting up the ceramic plates a little more (into 2 inch squares) so that a sigle hit will not compromise the entire armor plate? Also if you want to quickly upgrade this you can get a roll of thin sheet metal at most home improvement stores, you can use in-between the ceramic plates. Nice armor at the very least, though it does show flaws common in early type ceramic armors.
I don't understand, a bullet will shatter the whole ceramid plate into segments right? what's the difference between the plate being segmented by you ahead of time or segmented by the first impact?
@@discord_and_entropy because you make smaller tiles that shatter, meaning the rest of the surface area is not broken yet. It is for repieated hits to the plate. When shot you can get cracks running all over a plate, where with 2 inch by 2 inch squares the cracks don't expand past that size.
@@discord_and_entropy in a way yes, but you still have multiple layers of armor. You keep the cracks close together and it will still hit ceramic. The idea is only to localize damage with the edge of plates acting as stops for the expansion. Modern armors are actually little 1 inch by 1 inch plastic octagons/hexagons. The idea being those specific areas are smaller and lighter but can absorb huge amounts of kenetic energy. Most armors are multiple layers of several things, high performance ceramic (usually contains high amounts of iron powders or graphite powders) or a specific plastic that can actually be aquired commercially and melted down into molds, a this then offten has aramid fibers (most commonly kevlar, but for homemade a lot of welding tarps can work), usually this is bonded with a specifically thin resin (more about appling it thinly and evenly with large amount of pressure, usually in high levels of protection this is also mixed with graphite powders). These have lots of very technical but odd effects on how armors work. The reason these pre-made pieces aren't a problem is that they are situated right next to each other and in some cases overlapping on different levels.
Go for a ceramic, steel composite where you sandwich steel plates between and on the outside of the ceramic tiles bolted tightlu together where the high torque improves the capabilities of the armor and reduces complete shattering of each ceramic layer. This is how modern tank armor works.
Try construction grade unglazed porcelain tile. It'll be a little more expensive but not much, if you're only getting a few. The hardness will have a better chance of flattening and slowing down the rifle rounds.
the amount of energy applied to the surface of the plate and by extension the body should be the same considering that force originates from the bullet. which is my round about way of saying its going to be 5.56 every time so why does that matter? unless you mean how its dispersed to the body from the plate. But that would be dispersion not just "force" as the force is a constant in this equation.
What if you wrap each tile in duct tape individually, then wrap about 1/3rd of the paper layer in duct tape as well, and then combine everything under another layer of tape? I wonder if the extra glue from the tape might hold the tiles together better and also gum things up as projectiles pass through each layer…plus it shouldn’t add too much to the overall price
Ok, what if you replaced the paper (or added to it), a couple of pieces of screen (like screen door screen), that's been painted with a '2 for $15' "Gorilla Two Part Epoxy"? Then maybe even slide one in between each piece of tile?
This is FANTASTIC content. I wonder if there is some cheap granular media you could replace the paper with that would perform better, or what a layer of homemade ferrofluid would do...
layers of dyneema ( buy an old tent ) alternating the weave pattern , then apply hardening resin from fiberglass a thin plastic layer would also be helpful throughout the layers. You can place it in your truck doors or behind your seats
glue each piece of paper together as assembling backer portion. not sure what cheap glue you can find, but something that can be applied uniformly. ideally spray-can adhesive, but i think you can getaway with diluting elmers glue (polyvinyl acetate kind) with rubbing alcohol and apply with a brush. maybe if budget allows get some cotton (not t-shirt but regular cross/basket weave pattern) and layer glue into backing alternating every 3-5 sheets of paper. i think gluing cotton or canvas type fabric between tiles should also improved integrity for multi-hit test cases.
Nylon and Polyester are considerably stronger than cotton and linen (flax). They're also resistant to rot and decay. Layers of paper glued together can be exceptionally strong, but it's a tedious job, as you can only do a few sheets at once, or else it won't dry. The better quality the paper, the better the results.
You could try thin mild steel in the middle that has a lip around the edge to divert spalling with another tile and paper behind it. Or maybe even granite counter top pieces would work (if you could find cut off pieces for cheap?)
I may suggest adding mosquito net as an interlayer material besides the paper. I suspect that the bullet obliterates the tile but the paper forms a sort of dispersive net with the fragments, dissipating the bullet's energy among the bullet's. The Mosquito layer should be in the middle of the paper layer. My hypothesis is that it would hold better the fragments reinforcing the "dispersive net" effect.
In an apocalyptic scenarios this would be practically needed but it was interesting. The only thing is add is after you get it so where you stop rifle rounds & most rounds, you’d have to test the kinetic energy that is dispersed into the make shift bullet proof Best & how it could effect organs. Not good if it still sends a tremendous amount of kinetic energy to the one who wears this in a crazy pinch just to die of organ failure from the impact. I’d even say for this level of testing up it to 50 bucks. Then the third stage could be to try & lighten the weight somewhat but since it’s an emergency pinch gear only, I wouldn’t focus much in lightening it but I’d up it to about 75 bucks. Nice video Bro.
Im kind of impressed by the size of exit hole.. Im curious as to if it was the multiple layers of ceramic that tore the bullet up or if the was the paper was part of it.
Hmmm, wonder if it could be helpful for folks living in areas that have drive-by incidents of pistol calibres 🤔 not as body armour but as sectional wall panels below windows.
If u do buy this tile cutter . FYI never go back a scribe with another scribe movement. More chance it won't snap straight. 704 went forward and back wards. Watch in video the left side of tile. It cracked wrong because of the re-.scribe
It's surprising how some simple materials (Paper and ceramic) Could stop bullets. But what's more surprising is the stopped 5.56 in Wood. Maybe if you upgrade that armor with few metal sheets and some fiberglass in the front would make it stop 7.62 Tbh, is is worth it for home defense
I've made the same thing. I used 2 plates, put fiberglass material and resin in between and over them. I also put strips of semi truck ratchet straps under the resin. I shot at point-blank with my 9 m m with hydroshocks. It hit the ceramic and shattered it both levels of ceramic, it went through three layers of fiberglass material and resin but it did not penetrate the last three sheets of fiberglass at all
If there's an issue with the tiles breaking apart after the first large round.....why not try to tape each individual piece of tile? That way why the armor take the impact, it may break but the tape should hold everything together.
@704TACTICAL If you had spaced those with a 1/2 tile thickness of rubberised resin or fibre glass you will get more spread. The fracture energy spread is as important as hardness of ceramic with porcelain prob being best. Back with fibreglass and wrap with kevlar to stop lamination.
You could try some old Kevlar Town belts for glass making the leftover things very very tough and fairly bulletproof a couple layers of that interweaved with this and you might just have the civilian answer
My question is using a glueing agent like resize or epoxy, mixed heavily with ceramic in the centre of any plate, set up from polyethylene to whatever what is stopping capabilities, are especially up towards the front to slow the bullet towards the back, so using the powder from crushed tile and a thin film to lighten the weight, but still give a ballistic stop, is my question
Try tile - paper - tile - paper - tile - paper, glue the paper, and add a layer of hard Vinyl tile. Seeing how close you got would not be surprised it would work without the vinyl. Also an interesting layering would be, high grade sand paper soaked in salted water, dried out and glued with epoxy. High grade metal sand paper is made out of carbide (in many cases) the back cardboard absorbs salted water which Incas used on their Ichcahuipilli salt soaked cotton armor. Good epoxy should adhere well to both salt and carbide. Add some pressure and sure you will get something interesting to toy around. I live in a "guns free" country, so I can´t even try ... 👀
It’s sad how many school shootings there are nowadays. My son’s school has these special blocks that go in the floor that prevent the door from opening but every door has a vertical window with regular glass. I’ve often thought they need some type of body armor to slide over the glass.
The door is not a rifle barrier. The wall is probably concrete block, also not a rifle barrier. Any gunman with time and rounds will defeat any school or office building door or wall. They need to be denied the time.
The rubber plate idea has been tested, and doesn't seem to improve things. Using a tile adhesive or similar to bond the tiles seems more effective. Filling in the troughs on the back of the tile and providing a fairly uniform bond across the surfaces.
Aluminium is approximately one third the density and strength of common steels, and one third as stiff. So you would need three times the thickness to achieve the same results. It doesn't usually make sense to add extra bulk unless there is a reasonable weight saving. Eg. AL Bike frames can be lighter than steel frames because they make the tubes a bigger diameter to increase stiffness, whilst keeping enough strength in the tube walls, where steel tube walls would need to be so thin to be the same weight, it would crumple. But that doesn't apply to armour... it's a fairly linear and proportional 3 to 1 scale.
Kevlar bed spray between layers 2 layers of flex small tile with Kevlar spray. The wrap with ss screen. Spray the outside or use a roller on the exterior with poly bedliner.
You might as well just buy a few metres of kevlar fabric and put it behind the tiles, with a few layers on the front for spall protection, and cover in a waterproof layer of some kind. Or use woven glass fibre. E-glass cloth is cheap and very strong, whilst S-glass is considerably stronger, but more expensive. Both are comparable to Kevlar in tensile strength, although Kevlar is less dense and therefore somewhat lighter. The weave is an important factor for all three.
It's a guy that used melted milk jugs wrapped in that welders cloth. I wonder if you heat & compress the plastic from 3" down to 1.5"-2" inlay ceramic tile into the shape and onto the plastic and then wrap it in the welder fabric w/ that bonding stuff while using lvl + from tacticon armament as a backing with duck tape would it stop ap 30-06?
Maybe try one tile and then a thin piece of 1/8 or 1/4 metal plate. I’m not sure what the cost of metal would be but I’m sure a scrape yard would be cheap enough
Maybe you can try putting one ceramic tile in the front,a second layer with a 1.5/2mm steel plate and a last layer with 15 fiberglass layer welded with epoxy with carbon fiber dust..
I wonder if you put a thin sheet of steel or aluminum on the very back, if it would have stopped the .556. Maybe even a lightweight sheet of melted down milk jug plastic.
Forget milk jug plastic. Weight for weight it simply isn't a viable material, even assuming you could make a uniformly solid sheet without any weak spots. You can easily buy large sheets of HDPE in a variety of thicknesses. But HDPE is not the same as UHMWPE. And solid sheets of UHMWPE aren't used in armour. It's a combination of unidirectional UHMWPE fibres, usually trapped between a thin layer of plastic of either side. Several hundred of these are then compressed together. No milk jugs allowed. 😉
Good attempt. Walmart plastic grocery bags , laminated over this first bundle (an additional $0.00 cost, cut les of tiles, make them angle like almost a triangle, like tank armor, and maybe shred some milk jugs,or plastic coffee cans for 1"HDPE to add
Try heavy duty tarps. The ones made of industrial grade polyethylene. Cheap and made of polyethylene and hdpe is a denser polyethylene which is used in body armor
HDPE isn't used in body armour, but rather UHMWPE. Even then, it isn't solid sheets of plastic, but hundreds of layers of unidirectional fibres, each sandwiched between thin sheets of plastic, under controlled temperature and pressure. It is the delamination of those layers that provides the energy dissipation. Tarps are good at resisting loads applied over a large area, like those bags used to deliver soil and gravel etc. They can take huge weights. But they're not particularly good at resisting highly concentrated, localised forces. Enough layers of ANY material will stop a bullet eventually. 😉
I read through the comments and didn't see any suggestions of layering in a material like denim in your paper stack. Maybe a shuffle of the deck per say too. Try the tiles setup you have then try a replacement of multi square tiles offset in the front. Kind of like a dragon skin.
Denim is cotton, and even the finest long staple cotton is very weak compared to woven Nylon and Polyester. Nylon and Polyester are often cheaper than cotton too. While enough layers will stop bullets, weight for weight, cotton is far from the best of the widely available fabrics. I'd like to see what a single layer of heavy duty PE inserted between every 50 sheets of paper would do, as PE stretches to absorb energy, perhaps helping distribute energy better than paper alone.
Hey 704 🤫🤔. In between layers of tile put a layer of CHEMREX. CHEMREX is a better version of liquid nail. It has when hit by round a like gluey gummy affect on the bullet. If you can't get ahold of some I can mail you a tube. I do flooring so I have access to these products and have experimented with these ideas. Thanks for all the content videos you provide.
That's a great idea. when the heat of the bullet heats the CHEMREX as it passes through it will bond to it and slow the velocity down from the Round. I wanna see a video of this.
What about trying to stick the tiles back to front with cheap shower silicone, and maybe compare it with even something like painters caulk? Would 4 tiles stop the rifle, bonded together with a little less paper to thin it out?
Question would you mind doing the aame test but split the paper evenly behind each tile so instead or 3 tiles and 300 paper its 1 tile 100 paper 1 tile 100 paper .... If you get what i mean i would like to see the difference in performance between the 2 layouts. PLEASE DO A TEST LIKE THAT.
So, you can buy a kevlar insert shaped like that plate thing for aound 60 dollars. I'd love to see this test redone with that as the backer, instead of printer paper.
Not so sure about $10 ... however, You can try folding up some newspaper until it is pretty much solid, then use some flex seal tape to keep it all together and shape it... then spray it with the flex seal spray in the can or maybe some rhino lining. Maybe throw a few tiles in the middle of it. Should work pretty good
Just Newspaper will work against knives, but newspaper is such low quality paper, that you'd still need an exceptionally thick layer. I've done some knife and shank stabbing experiments, and it took over 200 sheets of cheap newspaper to equal around 50-60 sheets of typical office paper. For handgun bullets, which obviously aren't sharp, you'd need several phone books stacked to stand a chance. Even with a tile layer, the better your backing material, the better your chances of stopping a bullet.
I'd like to see you put heavy woven fiberglass sheets between the plates and behind the back one. I don't think that would drive the price up that much, especially if you eliminate the paper.
Also, I've heard that a number of silk shirts, like one could get from a thrift store, together can prevent a bullet from getting thru (kind of acting like a netting capturing it). It will still do a lot of damage to one's body so it needs a good backing, but maybe that would be a good replacement for the paper.
A plate using 3/16" mild steel + some layers of dening and construction grade glue( for spalling protecion) works better for pistol round than this and is Also cheep as well.
