Dude the build is going sweet! It's badass that you're not going the easy route and just wrapping up stuff and painting around them. Your lude is turning out killer, keep up the kick ass job brother and keep the vids coming!
I'm not sure if that is true. The fuel comes in via the large pipe with the flange at the end, goes to the fuel filter, then the rail and exits to another line by the brake booster not shown in the video. That mystery line has been capped off by me for years. So I'm not sure what it is. Thanks for watching!
Yo! On my "new" 90 4WS that I've had roughly a year now(8 to 12 months) the prior owner Rambo'd the passenger side underneath and cracked the rack pinion support, dented the front radiator support and must have rammed the lower control arm in the process because the UPPER control arm seemed to get all the transfer forces and the bushing bolt closest to the firewall is pushed up like the bolt holes for the ignition right next to it! Also that same side of the upper control arm is pinch bent close to the bushing carrier and it causes the entire upper ball joint arm to be diagonal just a bit. Its not level at all! He must have hit a rock on the beach or a bent almost flat metal pole just high enough to miss the front bumper but hit the front support, miss tranny then hit the rear support cracking it where the lower arm inner bushing attaches and BENT OUT OF THE BOLT HOLES the 3 big bolts that secure the middle support(jacking point support that runs front to back), then hit the passenger side I beam type reinforcement attached underneath to floor pan and finally rip the corner bottom wheel well exactly where the pinch welds meet at the bolt and passenger side lift point! So he must have been going fast as heck and when he hit whatever it was he was bouncing in the seconds after the impacts! Anyways, I want to replace that area on the passenger side inner front upper fender where the upper arm bolts to and where the strut and spring go. Know what I mean? Do they come out afte that stuff is scraped off or is there more weld? Im thinking about just taking a big battery(s) heavy duty cordless sawzall and going to it at the junk yard! Any advice? Seriously it's a nightmare lol when i bought the car from him it pulled so hard to one side but I actually got it to drive super straight. I had zero clue any of that was wrong other than the side pinch weld lift point area. I drove it like thar for 6 months. Even going over 100 on freeway and it handled like it was on rails! Like a tank! Then one day about a month ago I was under the car and seen all the damage and I was shocked. Since then its been on Jack stands in my garage slowly getting babied and wuved on Haha. Please help me lol
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers WHAT! Hell no! Im the kind of guy who revives FROM the junk yard Haha But seriously you would do all that work to your car and you're recommending I junk mine because of a couple bent parts? I already replaced 90% of the bad parts. Everything else is straight. Now if this was any other car lesser than the lude than maybe but that's the problem with allot of the world today. "Just junk it"... ohhhhhkay lol That comment actually made me sad. Car doesn't burn any oil, drives straight(even with the broken parts) and blah blah blah I guess.. unsubscribed
Tones of effort... Great work... I know you want to keep the original engine... but with so much work already gone into your 3g... you got to really consider doing a h22 swap. There's a massive differance in driving experience... please find a good h22 swapped 3g and go for a ride... I'm sure it will make you change your mind... (I'm building my second one now) With the engine out you are half way there... go for it lol
Your right. There is a massive difference....in price!!! If I ever want to swap all of this work will still look great. All that would change is the engine, mounts and transmission.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I guess we are lucky over here in Australia, I got a complete 4th gen vtir for $1200AUD. But it cost me $1600AUD for mounts (and traction bar) with shipping. Anyway... keep up the good work...
That is a good deal! Over here, the swap is about $4k. If my engine ever takes a dump, I'll be making the swap for sure, but will be going with the F20b. Thanks for watching!!
I think you mixed up the heater and AC lines. I say that since I have my AC deleted but have heat and the coolant lines are in the center of the firewall.
