This is one of the best and most informative videos about car repair that I have ever seen. If I have a comment it would be that you were more explicit about adding the indicator oil.
wow, this comment made my day. Thank you for taking the time to post a comment on this video. Sorry i didn't go into detail on the oil addition. i was having a bit of a tough time trying to get it loaded into the hose until i just poked a small hold in the seal of the oil and pushed it against the hose end and just forced it in there with the other side detached and it turned out i didn't have the camera on at the time. When i went to purge the hose once i had the R134A on it i ended up spraying a good bit of the oil all over the engine bay of the van haha. I totally should have put that in the video but i was embarrassed so i left it out but now that i have thought about it, my mistakes can help people in the future so i should have put it in as a "what not to do" type of thing. Cheers and i hope you have a great one!
2013 Toyota Sienna. Save so much money! I too went down the check list to confirm this is the issue. Compressor is working, no leaks, etc. Spot on with using the pics to remove the C-clip and then using the socket / bar to tap the solenoid back in flush. For me it cost $180 total. Did fine an Auto shop to remove and refill the same amount of Freon at no extra cost - 140. They were understanding and cool about my issue. Some other shops were not and gave quotes to diagnosed and then assume if the compressor needed to be replaced it would be around 1,000 to 1,500 here in Allen, Texas. Yes…I took a chance with Amazon at 40 bucks for the part but I got cool ass AC for the van. Thanks so much for your video and sacrificing your body. Hehe
That’s crazy that so many shops refuse to do the evacuation. Glad you were able to get your van AC working again. I’m sure you will be fine with the Amazon part. Cheers
Awesome. Did you have to evaporate the system before removing the AC control valve? I'm in Texas too, what shop did you find to remove and refill the freon for no extra cost? Thanks
@@Eternal2007I did have to have the system evacuated. I had it done at the auto hobby shop on the marine base at Quantico. All the local shops wouldn’t do it which was crazy to me
My ac control panel is dead. Did you guys also have that problem? At first it was just blowing warm air with the ac on then the controls quit coming on.
Cool to see you work on another vehicle! Obviously the Ranger is cooler but any info that can help people work on their own cars is always a good thing.
Yeah, i was hesitant to post this video to be honest because all of the subscribers came from Ranger Raptor videos, but when i actually got the AC working f or $90 instead of $2000+ i figured i had to post it in case it gets to just one person who can use it! Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated as always
My 2016 Hyundai Accent started blowing hot air after sitting for 16 days. My mechanic said the compressor was coming on and that I had no leaks. He told me it was the control valve, but he refused to replace it! I took it to another place that specializes in car AC and one mechanic there had never heard of a control valve while another denied that the compressor on my Hyundai even had one! I pulled up the part on a supplier's website and showed it to him. What idiots!
@@eflint1 that is insane that one shop told you what the problem was but then said they woudln't fix it, they probably wanted to charge you for a whole new compressor. and the idea that the second place didn't know what it was is crazy! Hopefully you are able to take care of it on your own with some time and a few parts from the local auto shop. Good luck
I knew that thing had to be giving bad readings… I didn’t realize there was a difference but that makes a lot of sense. The AC is still blowing cold air so that was certainly the problem and I’m glad this video is useful for more than just the Sienna! Cheers
I’m grateful for so many DIY videos that have been made and have literally saved me $1,000’s. This video isn’t one of them. 30 minutes is about 25 minutes longer than it needs to be. Lastly, no, R134a (tetrafluoroethane) is not bad for the ozone layer. This guy isn’t as smart as he thinks he is. This is not the 1980’s AC.
‘it's illegal to release regulated refrigerants into the air, including R-134a, also known as Freon 134a. The Clean Air Act prohibits the intentional release of most refrigerants when disposing of appliances. This is because some refrigerants can remain in the atmosphere for decades and can be thousands of times worse for climate change than carbon dioxide. R-134a is a gas that traps heat in the atmosphere at 1,430 times the rate of carbon dioxide. It's part of a family of chemicals known as hydrofluorocarbons that are being phased out worldwide due to their climate impacts’ you are right, not bad for ozone but has impact on global warming and it is illegal, feel free to drain your oil down a storm drain while you vent your AC to atmosphere though. Maybe you aren’t as smart as you think.
Hi hows the a/c , mine is blinking now ive tried to replace the control valve and so i though it was fixed but didn't so i bought new magnetic switch and it fixed it but now it very weak
yeah, i may have sped through that when editing... sorry. I did do it and some R-134A and a bit of the oil die came out of the schradar valve and made an oily mess that i had to wipe up haha.
Really helpful. One question. When adding freon back are all valves open except for the high knob on next to the gauges? Both lows open and also the high down by the pipe?
When adding the Freon the only valve that is shut is the high pressure valve on the manifold itself. Both valves on the connectors to the lines on the vehicles schrader valves are open, the center valve connected to the Freon on the manifold and the low line valve on the manifold are open as well. Hope that is what you were asking and that I answered in a way that makes sense
i didn't really think of that but it probably would have fit a little better. If i have to do it again i will go through the dealership for it for sure... great point!
@@eflint1 i went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they actually had one in stock! the AC is still blowing cold a month later... i am still the hero in the family :)
I hope I get a reply on my issue. I have 2011 sienna limited the ac system work not as good as it should be in the front. and the rear ac does not work at all. I haven't checked anything yet will you able to give me an advice? " thanks in advance
there are a few servo motors that adjust the airflow in the system. One sends the air through the heater core for heat (not the issue here obviously) another adjusts it from the upper air vents to the lower and another opens and closes the ducting to send air to the rear of the vehicle. This sounds like a combination of problems to me. First, you may have low levels of refrigerant in your system, or the compressor control valve may be going bad (or a multitude of other AC system related problems, hard to tell without seeing it) along with either an electrical or mechanical failure on the vent servo motors. Sorry i cant be more help.
I’m trying to do this repair on my car and I can’t for the life of me get the valve to come out. I used a a/c manifold to let the refrigerant out…no pressure is showing on the gauges. I’ve removed the clip that holds the component in the compressor. I’ve used penetrator around the component, Used pliers on the housing with crazy force, and I still can’t get it out. HALP. What could I be doing wrong? Also, is there a chance not to break it by taking the wire housing off exposing the valve piece and using my pliers to pull it out?
Maybe I was lucky to get mind out but if it’s stuck it’s stuck. Other than tapping with a hammer and trying to pry it out I don’t know what to tell you. If you have the snap ring off and it isn’t coming out maybe try to pressurize the system to 5-10 psi and see if that helps get it out. I know others have had it corroded in the compressor and if that is the case you have a whole different problem. Good luck!
Based on the pressure readings when the compressor was running after a fresh recharge it indicated it was a compressor failure and after some research I found that this part was the weak link in the compressor so it was an inexpensive first step before taking it to a shop and spending $2000 for a whole new compressor. If this didn’t fix it I was going to take it back for a full evaluation.
Honestly if you have a 2011-2016 sienna with a *somewhat* failed AC (it runs, and the air is sorta cool) and you're confident that you dont have a gas leak, it's probably this. The mechanism inside collapses into itself. You can compare a new one with an old one, it's supposed to be sprung inside. The spring or its seat fails internally.
