If you were at the dealer service, and diagnosed an intermittent open wire or connector like that, your service manager would want that car up on the lift, the covers removed, the belt off, and the compressor positioned to inspect if the wire or wire end inside the plastic hardshell connector was damaged, loose, or fit poorly. If you can provide a ground with a jump wire substituted, and it works without an a/c issue or noise, you repair the wire. That's the difference between getting labor to solve the issue versus replacing half the system for the sake of the parts cannon. Now if there's a bulletin, it might specify which is the known to fail part. It could also be a bulletin that provides a part number for a repair connector or the field coil. You should try by inspection, to fix it. If you don't have to replace half the system, then don't. Overselling on ac is what mechanics get accused of sometimes, it's because once you breach the system refrigerant, a bunch of issues are created. Just don't. If there's a good reason during the inspection to repair, then that would change things. Like a cracked field coil, or broken connector on the body of the field coil. When I did these, we identified piece by piece and parts price by price, then management decided with who was paying. That's the best medicine. You can do whatever you like, of course.
That compressor has the rear electronic control solenoid valve which is also a troublesome solenoid to diagnose. Great job diagnosing the A/C. Thumbs Up
Dang. Replaced a perfectly good compressor just because of a loose wire. That sucks. Hopefully they will rebuilt the "old" unit and resell it. Great video, though sir!
Thank you-thank you! Been chasing a very similar problem on my older Sienna and think you're spot on. Different years but evidently similar AC systems.
Great job,I do this all day everyday,people don't realize how much goes in to diagnosis a A/C problem,just today I fixed a Dodge and a Chevy Traverse with bad TIPM's,no power to the a/c relay's,just remember don't overlook the basics,lol..
I just love your no nonsence logical troubleshooting. Im not a car guy but i work with computers and ive come to realize troubleshooting is a skill that transends fields. As long as you canbreak the problem down logically.
Eric, I hope you're doing extremely well down in the great state of Texas! I've been binge watching all your past videos and am learning so many great things from you. Thank you!
You did an excellent job with the video. It looked and sounded great. I enjoyed how you went through step by step to show everybody what is going on. Not too fast not too slow. Perfect Great job
Hi,it happened to me but with a new compressor from Nissan, I went to an other shop to diagnostic, and find out the female terminal was to open,I did closed them,everything works after that..nice information.
Goodmorning brother , Thank you , really appreciate the information and knowledge. I have a 2002 Sienna and same issue. I believe it may be the same. The belt squeaks when I turn on the ac as the car runs , hoping it isn’t a greater issue. Best regards ✊🏽🙏🏼
Great diagnostic path!! Good to c the Launch. I Think Launch is getting jealous of all the attention Think is getting. I have the Diagun. So far I don’t c the need to buy the Think. Both seem to b excellent tools.
A very common problem with Toyota is the relay for the clutch, often the horn relay is the same, I swap them and the ac starts working, I try that soon as I verify there's enough freon in the system and compressor clutch doesn't engage
My sienna doesn't blow that cold when idling, but when I get up to a consistent speed above say 45 mph for any length of time, starts to blow cold; makes me think it's the EcoBoost getting in the way. Thoughts?
When the big bad ass tech says, "what the hell"!!?😁. You're my new favorite. Logic is misleading, too often it's not what you know, it's what you can figure out.
That sienna has the outdated mag clutch relay, toyota came out with a different relay which was Grey in color. The old off white color relay overheats and shuts down the a.c. system.. common on all camrys older corollas and siennas
Im having same problem with 2011 sienna, but this one has an integrated relay for the A/c , wish me luck 😅 . Great video, you make everything look easier.
@@Moturd 3 things were bad, the A/C amplifier, it's location is under the globe box, the integrated relay, it's location front fuse box. And the sensor located on top of the sensor.
last time i had that code set, it was on that model year sienna, i had a pin fitment issue at the connector by the passenger kickpanel, then i found the clutch and coil was replaced by the last toyota dealer for the same code(NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CLUTCH AND COIL ON THE DIAGRAM), so then i had to replace the clutch and coil because the clutch/coil wire was rubbed through due to improper installation
Help!! 2011 Sienna not cold air on driver side front to back (xle with dual control) but right passenger side is cool but not cold. Actuator motor on driver side is fine. R235a pressure on low side is spot on using two guages. High side is low though at 100 or less running or not. Could it be an expansion valve or what? Compressor cuts on but does not cycle very often.
@heyradchad actuator motor on left was definitely bad. Had to order a junkyard unit...worked fine...was a beeeotch to install getting teeth to line up...only took 89 attempts
i have a 2011, but there's not even a relay in that spot. It doesn't say MG CLT on my diagram, it just says "PTC HTR NO.3". But my "A/C On" light does flash at times - not all the time, when i press the AC button a few times, it will toggle On to Off, etc. but remains on when I leave it On.
Same here, mine doesn’t have an a/c magnetic relay either. AC turns off rarely. I have noticed it doesn’t blow very cold air. I have a neighbor that has 2003 sienna and his air is much colder than my sienna.
Great video. I have a 2017 Highlander XLE and a fw years ago my A/c wasn't blowing cool air so I took it to the dealership. My understanding was that they checked everything and then put in some sealant with a UV dye. What they didn't tell me was to bring in back in so they could use a black light or whatever it is to see the dye if that is the logical next step. Th A/c worked fine for th next year and a half but last September the A/C wasn't blowing cold air again. I had noticed a slight "smell" inside the vehicle occasionally while using the A/C for the month or 2 before that. What's a real pain in the a$$ is that the refrigerant used in the 2017 Highlander is R134a which was banned from being sold in Canada back in 2020!!!! Now what? I was going to try a recharge kit but like I said R134a is no long sold here. I'm beginning to think that the Toyota Tech who was probably fairly new didn't take the steps that you showed here ( the Tech who worked on a previous Toyota had over 38 years in when he retired back in 2016 ). Some random non- Toyota guy said that I would have to replace everything in the A/C system to be able to use the " new " refrigerants. Is this true?
I have 99 toyota camry that does the samething i was cheking it the other day and noticed that when i spun the clutch with a screwdriver it would kick on now i just turn it off and on untill it kicks in...im going to che the wires next i was already going to order a new clitch...
Same intermittent issue in my 2007 Lexus es350. Toyota uses the same compressor in matrix, sienna, and Lexus models. Same exact connector issue as in the vid. In my case the connecter melted together(ac still kicks on somehow). Im getting the ac control valve (eBay 50$) AND the pigtail connecter (22$) changed out. Shop originally wanted to replace whole compressor (600$, not including labor)
Because my Lexus was a 97, it wasn’t worth replacing expensive parts, as a temporary fix, I raised the idle to 950ish to solve my ac problem but I would not recommend doing it on a car you plan to keep for a long time. I ended up selling my Lexus a year later.
Great video Eric, isn't there a AC clutch speed sensors that monitors the RPM of clutch and if it differs from Crank RPM it detects a 'locked clutch' and cutoff the AC clutch relay, therefore disengaging the clutch ? Thanks.
Agreed, those clutch coils are as close to crap as they can get them. They aren't built robust enough therefore not able to weather through the ambient heat including the electrical load heat generated when operating. I've seen many of them burned and overheated yet the compressor is still 100% good and in many cases, only 6 months old rendering the repair to involve a complete compressor replacement vs. just the coil for $40.
Great video!. I have the same van (2011) and my ac is not really cold , I say 60% cold only.. they say it may be the condenser or evaporator clogged .. any idea I would really appreciate you. 👍
Also when I turn the ac on , right before start cooling poorly smells really bad from the vents . This is why it makes me believe the evaporator is bad
Hello have a ? for you I am looking at the Topdon Phoenix plus vs Thinktool Pro. What is your view on the two scanners to buy. I have not found a side by side comparison. Thanks
I’m literally having the same issue in my Lexus es350 I’ve known it’s the connector I just haven’t gotten it fixed. It’s crazy how my car has the same exact problem. I was actually finally taking it to the mechanic today too…
