eBay / amazon / comet 30 series install , mistake , modification guide. On a predator 212 or clone engine. Grind hard plumbing co, carsandcameras, kartfab, red beard’s garage, arc racing, rather b welding, cboysTV, black66
Just a note on the comment "you can use a regular washer" on the primary. I had a weak washer that wore out and spun the outside cover off sending the weights flying violently blew up my cover, but luckily missed me. I would not run one of these without that washer, that is just me because I don't want to get hit with flying metal.
Interesting, my oldest converter has only had a washer on it for at least 6 years or so and I haven’t had an issue. I usually get grade 8 washers in bulk though from tractor supply so they are pretty strong. How did the washer cause the failure? Did it collapse or did the bolt just come off?
I made a specialty washed out of a brass bushing, it wore through or the brass was soft enough for the clutch to push it and deform it. But ether way I would not trust a regular washer, I do run my bike somewhat harder than most. @@jwsbackyard6413
@@jwsbackyard6413Explain. My parts came flying off not long ago and I was wondering if it’s because the bolt was coming loose and I’m considering loctite or something for it.
Yeah as long as the bolt is in nothing should be able to fly off. Loctite may help but an impact wrench is pretty effective at keeping the bolt on. If you don’t have an impact you can use a rubber strap wrench to hold the driver why you torque the bolt down.
I’m not saying he is wrong but I’ve seen first hand what he is talking about and yes it’s all true and possible but it happens bc the things get dirty and clogged. What rider cleans the belt debris after each ride. Who knows about breaking in the belt with 2 heat cycles of about 15 min followed by cooling, or that if you lubricate both pulleys and apply a grease to the tension springs and clean the inside of the driver pulley and cause micro abrasions to the part of the driver that grabs the belt for better friction contact when the cvt engages thus less belt slipping. Not to mention your chain and sprocket rusty. A little WD-40 and a wire brush against the chain and ran the engine at a low and safe rpm with bearings g protection you could have that chain sparkling for the video The point is there is so many factors so unless you consider it all then I’d advise against going against the engineering but if you don’t feel like doing all that maintenance then yeah throw the bronze ring away it’s just there to help the belt slip when idling so that it’s not engaging 24/7
Great vid . I had a keyed sleeve on the driver break into pieces. Since I have the upgraded flywheel I may just put a juggernaut on it and lose the gov.. unless I can buy that sleeve sold separately
Great video! Do you know what the thread pitch/bolt for the 4 bolts that holds the backer plate to the engine. The ones you said don’t over tighten and they will strip
Son of a gun I asked a question on another video an I think you answered it with this one I believe I got my lock but too tight but on mine the bolt it self sticks threw 3/4 of a inch it is a used one so idk what cause of this is but I got it with nut all the way snug an nylon stop gone out of it. If I did stop where it was supposed to stop I don’t imagine 1/2 to 3/4 gap from back the nut to the face of the driven pully would be safe huh ?
I would personally just get it snug and use lock tite if the nylon is gone. The gap may not effect it though because a lot of people leave their clutches/sprockets float with some movement side to side to help the pulleys/sprockets stay aligned on their own.
@jwsbackyard6413 I have a question for you. So I bought a riser for my son's go-kart. I went out and bought another chain cause, of course, now that the motor is higher, the chain wasn't going to fit. I got 10 feet of chain and just shortened it to where I needed it,but the chain is a little loose, and if I take another link out, it will be too short. So, do I need a different size chain or a different sprocket? The chain keeps popping off.
Only thing I could think of is the shaft slides on may need lubrication or there is something physically blocking it from opening. Make sure nothing is wedged in around the spring area.
I would like to put the final drive sprocket outside of the torque converter box for use on a bicycle with 79 cc engine but I can’t figure out how to do it with a pressed into that bearing
Just so I’m understanding what you mean. Are you trying to put the sprocket on the back side of the driven shaft or on the very end of the shaft on the outside of the driven pulley?
Gotcha, I’ve seen people push the shaft for the driven pulley through and mount the sprocket on the back side. The shaft has a lip preventing it from sliding one direction that you would have to deal with. Would likely have to change bearing at the front side of the backing plate.
for the pulley do you need the washer for the locknut I have seen some videos of other people without it and mine does not have it and my lock nut came flying off the other day If I need it any idea what size washer that is and where to get one?
No you don’t need the washer. That’s strange that it was able to back itself off though. Was the nut on far enough to engage the nylon material? May need a fresh lock nut and a little thread locker.
@@jwsbackyard6413 okay yea It was on far enough I honestly have no idea how it came off I was riding noticed the torque converter was making a weird noise the noise was the nut rolling around in the case I put the same nut back on with out the case and lost the nut during the test ride kinda feel dumb now lol also where can I get the nut from
It really depends on gearing, weight of the kart, how much power the engine has etc. On a proper setup I’ve had them last years as long as they stay out of the elements. On my larger heavier karts they may last a few months.
Are both the TCs shown in this video the same? The one on the pink kart looks like it sits flat horizontal instead of at an angle like the other one. I need one that mounts flat like on the pink kart
I would bet that the inner collar is in backwards. The collar has a lip with two flat sides that locks into the outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked onto that lip it will wobble.
I'm curious if you have an answer or maybe some possible solutions to a problem i'm having. I have a 30 series on a Kenbar cart where the spacing requires a much longer belt and I'm lucky to get 30 minutes before the belt wears down probably 30% of its surface. The only belt i've used so far is a genuine comet 203599, which still seems a tad loose, but the 203598 is too small and doesn't fit. Appreciate it.
I’m not sure if your set up would allow for it but I have slotted my engine mounts so that I can move my engine to get the belt tight. I have also used washers to lift the engine some to get some tension on the chain or belt when I didn’t have room to slide it forward/backwards. Other things to consider with the belt wear is the weight of the cart and gearing. My heavier karts go through belts fast. The 30 series really struggles to clamp the belt on my heavier karts. Also I’ve seen the 30 series struggle with really low gearing.
You don't have another choice if the 598 belt is too tight. The 599 belt is the longest belt for a 30 series. 598 is the second longest. Your spacing pully to pully is just in between these two belt sizes.
Comet has a variety of belts for the 30 series that can be order. They are more expensive than the two common sizes but there are a ton of sizes available.
What would make one of these grind. I bought an old go kart and ordered a new tc from Amazon and bought a new 212 and put it it all together ran fine for an hour or so but now the driver pulley won't engage and just makes a grinding noise. Any help would be really appreciated.
There is a larger spacer that needs to go behind the backing plate for the driver. If that spacer is missing it will grind on the bolt heads of the main backing plate. If that is on the inner sleeve for the driver could be in backwards. The sleeve has a stepped side that locks into outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked into that sleeve it may not engage. If all that is ok I would take the driver apart and make sure the weights and springs look ok.
No problem. I’d check the brass idle sleeve also; they are known to wedge themselves in the driver. I’ve also had a few occasions where the chain would rub the backing plate or the driven side when not spaced well.
Have quite a few predator 212s that are somewhere between 8 to 10hp. I have a tillotson that’s probably closer to 14 or 15hp. The 30 series have held up to those power ranges but the kart weight is really what has made the difference. On my heavier karts the 30 series slips.
I will be installing a 40 series and that should be good. Btw, are the bracket and jackshaft ( bearings) on the 30 and 40 series the same or is the 40 built stronger?
@@edmagee6818 I’m not sure about the bearings between the 30 and 40 series. The 40 will be able to handle a heavier kart and more power without slipping for sure. It is much heavier than the 30 so should have some more clamping force.
Ok thanks, you confirmed what i thought. I bought a 40 series today from BMI , it's already set up with the reverse spring. This go kart thing is a new experience for me,as I'm used to working on cars and trucks.
If the 40 isn’t strong enough they make a few that have stronger drivers but I’d expect the 40 will be a big improvement. The nice thing about small engine stuff compared to cars/trucks is the cost. The low cost really lets you experiment.
There are a lot of videos out there on tuning GY6 type CVT's but I have not seen many on the Comet torque converters, so this is good information. I don't think most people understand how they work or how dramatically proper tuning will change the performance of their machine. While I don't agree with you regarding the bushing you throw away, I can see why getting stuck in high gear would suck. I think that the issue is simply that the bushing is stretching itself out over time and fits loose on the shaft and becomes tight on the sleeve. I would replace it not just eliminate it.
Thank you JW, that pretty much explains and confirms my thoughts that the 30 series I'm working on can't handle the power of the engine combined with the weight of the kart. Thank you for replying back to me.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I installed the entire setup on a 100cc Gas bike using all of the tips in this video man. I wish I could buy you a pack of Parliament Lights Menthol. When I was trying to mount this on my things, I was totally hung up on the oil-lite bushing (The ring of death). After watching this, I bought a stainless shaft adapter to fit it to my engine. I figured before I put any oil in it, I would remove the governor and all the associated parts. I got that done then reassembled it. I decided to mount the 100cc on its front against the seat tube with the jug straight up and it looks like a moto Guzi ha-ha. I couldn't figure out how the thing was going to work when I couldn't get the belt on. That DAMMED OILLITE was jammed in there stopping it from coming together. I couldn't have done it (as fast) without you.
