The problem with over inflation. Besides, losing contact area with a road is the fact that you beat up your suspension system and a little bit of overinflation isn't bad but a lot of it can actually destroy your suspension because you a lot of problems later on bull joints, whatever😊
@sparkymikey25 use Google instead of RU-vid. Video isn't supposed to be the most efficient way to learn. It's meant to be entertaining and educational.
if you have a engine that the crank dipps into the oil in the sump a dry sump setup makes a big difference a cheaper option is to not fill the oil to max under half but well above min and check it regularly
No. Dry sumps require at a minimum a two stage external pump driven by the engine (to pressuring the oil going into the block, and to pump the oil to and from the oil tank), so it's swings and roundabouts for economy. If you want the crank to not dip into the sump oil a windage tray is what you're after, cheaper, lighter and less complicated. Race motors use dry sumping for oil control purposes (surge etc) because the system costs a small amount of power. It's also used to lower the mass of the engine and c of g. What's more and as for putting less oil in the engine than spec- no. When it's running a lot of oil is up in the block and head doing its job under pressure. There's a lot less in the sump than you think. And if you dry sump you need a tank and more oil and weight which also affects economy
Things that I've actually done that work: (on an automatic obviously) fit a custom-made torque-converter with an ultra-low stall speed. Dramatically improves fuel consumption round town, although the torque converter manufacturer may resist making it for fear of it stalling as soon as it's put in gear. Ignore them; (On a diesel) Having the fuel pump outlet turned back to the inlet via 'Y' piece. Reduces the flow of fuel through the fuel filter and enables an old ford mechanical pump to make the injectors to be self-priming as well (note: don't do then when the lift pump is in the tank, only do this when the lift pump is built in to the main pump); (on an old carburettor engine with automatic choke) Disable the automatic choke and fit a manual choke; (On a standard petrol engine of any size): Use an exhaust for the next engine size down. For example, use a 1400 exhaust on a 1600 Astra mk4. The fitting is compatible, but it has higher back-pressure. It reduces maximum power but economy improves (yes, I can explain why, even though it's counter-intuitive) (On a diesel) Fit an ultra-low back-pressure exhaust system, to improve both economy and power. On any car) fit a higher-compression-ratio head and a camshaft with less open time for both inlet and exhaust (note: This requires an exhaust system with much lower back pressure) (on a carburettor petrol car) - disable the accelerator pump jet mechanism. It's a total waste of fuel (on a carburettor petrol car or an injected car that does not have closed circuit air/fuel ratio adjustment) - fit an Ecotek valve in the inlet manifold, preferably just after the carb before the air splits to go in different cylinders. Makes it start easier, makes it feel fuel injected, makes it more economical, makes engine over-run more economical (reduces engine braking). Things I have not done that I intend to try out: Change a 16v engine to 8v by removing half of the lifters or cam lobes (whichever is appropriate for the engine) Reduce maximum engine speed to half through engine management computer Use half-strength valve springs on the remaining valves
Extralube ZX1 added to oil in engine. A little in the fuel and applying some to the gearbox and greasing the wheel bearings did reduce friction in the car and provide better starting. When used with hyper-miling the economy really was boosted in an old Corsa. Adding tires with lower rolling resistance also helped. Extralube ZX1 Grease on the wheel bearing really reduced the friction and allowed the wheel to spin freely when jacked up similar to those fidget spinners. I have had lower improvements in a one-litre Micra but didn't do the wheel bearings or gearbox.I believe I got 1hp more. My current DIG-S seems to have benefited from ZX1 treatment. Engine oil and fuel only. It seems to run freer and have a little more power which can be used either for speed or using lower revs to gain the same power output. A small improvement in MPG was observed according to the OBC. BG44K, Techron Fuel Treatment, and Archoil 6900-P do seem to help keeping my Direct injection Engine cleaner. ASTA 3000 was also a very good additive but I cannot seem to get that any more.
Undertray, Separation Edging, Air-Curtain, Hood Ducting, Cooling Air Redirecting, All that I'm going to be doing to my car in 2025. Getting more air to the intake plenum helps, and using 1970's emission set-up for quick pre-heat of the engine also is a winner. Moving the Capacitor to a cool place (Like the cool air-intake or filter box) also helps. For city driving I set the tire pressure to what's recommended by the car manufacturer, but if I am going on the highway I'll put an extra 5 pounds in them. As for 'Additives' I only use ones that have lubricants in them (Lucas) for the top of the cylinders. Great for long road trips.
I'm going to sound like a total nerd here. Golf balls have dimples because they rotate as they travel through the air and the dimples creates a cushion of air around them reducing drag. This was tried on car intakes but didn't improve things. It will be interesting to try it on the bodywork. I guess the vortex generators are reducing drag to a certain extent which is a similar principle.
@@albieoval1657 Don't fall into that trap. We wax aircraft - because it takes the dirt away (dirt which induces drag via interruption of the laminar flow). You're car's skin - feel it when you haven't washed it and waxed it - then feel it after you have. Totally smooth - helps to set up the laminar flow, lessening drag. Over long trips this will add up to fuel savings.
If engine has water cooled oil cooler .. then masking the oil sump to retain the engine heat wirk ... Need a temp sensor in the sump .. n nit to criss the sump oil temp beyond 120 deg C
HHO is the biggest con since fuel magnets. I run biofuel AC stag propane kit, economy is up 20-25% global average. Second, liqui moly diesel purge, 2 hours fast idle to consume 1 gallon of cleaner saw economy jump from 42 to 48mpg Lastly, 4 wheel tracking alignment, I saw 3mpg improvement. Currently driving tdv6 xf, averages 900 miles a tank, over 67mpg average, 88 on a run, 45 around town. Don’t forget mooneyes
there are some morons in hare, who don't know anything about cars. i am telling you that this guy and his channel is brilliant, and such a gem 💎 for people to learn about the cars 🔥🤘
How about cutting a strip of another tire slightly larger than the one you're using? Deflate your tire and put the strip around it. So you have less contact, area with the road.
if you put 17 inch wheels 205/45r17 from 185/60r15 but the 15's being steel rims and the 17's being super lightweight alloy rims, would you save fuel or worsen the economy?
Good tip, especially if the aircon is on recirculate where it is maintaining a cool temp rather than reduce warm external air all the time. In my experience speeds of around 40mph with the window open cause extra drag and reduce fuel economy.
Adding hydrogen works , using it for last 15 plus years ... Need to play around ecu to get best out if it .. and yes .. am an automobile engineer ,wirking with an auto giant , in powertrain division , engine testing on validation abd proving dynamometers ..fir 12 years ... 6 hours per day ...
How would that work? First you turn fuel into electricity, than electricity to hydrogen, which you than burn with fuel. Energy gets lost in those conversion. Physics can't be beaten.
The test for HOH is simple: If you get more mileage after the mod it works. The problem is usually the ECU wants to dump in more fuel to compensate for extra oxygen coming in via the HOH (O2 & H2). Seen some HOH units that work but most don't. It helps if your HOH electrolysis unit is efficient and doesn't require too much power to run. :-)
Whilst I try to please everyone I'm afraid you'll just have to put up with regional accents as RU-vid is international and I am from Southern UK so if you can't follow my voice or don't like the accent (or even if people take exception to my face or hair style) then just move along. I certainly won't be trying to adopt another regional accent such as I assume your local southern Australian (Geelong Melbourne) dialect.
