I think this deserves a much longer and much more in-depth video. You'll need to make more runs to get more accurate avg times, but also tires that have been trimmed like most would people do. Still a great video though. Another one I'd love to see you do, normal medium/large dia wheels vs medium/large one way wheel sets, it would be nice to see if everyone avoiding one way wheel sets is justified, seems as though I'm the only person that likes them. It seems there are people out there that also don't understand that the one way wheels ARE a differential gear. Just my two cents. Also, shop looking great. Makes me wish Tamiya tried to start the hobby back up over here again. Would love to visit a dedicated 4wd store.
While I do agree that it would have been more definitive to have averaged runs, there were some other reasons that I had to consider in choosing to run the test the way we did it. I had to get there early enough so that I didn't get in the way of other customers so I had some self-imposed time constraints. So that forces me to use Alkalines since that would minimize the time to run the test. If I had chose to use NiMH the test would have taken much longer due to recharging the batteries to the same voltage every run. The motor also starts to change in performance the more runs you put it through. If I were to give each configuration a total of 2-3 runs that would increase the number of laps the motor would run from 12-36. The motor will heat up, carbon will build up, list goes on. I didn't want to have to clean the motor after each run. Which goes back to time constraints again. I've always wondered about the one way wheels as well. Good idea mate, don't be surprised to see a video like this in the future. I probably wouldn't bother with testing different sizes of the one way wheel sets. I'd narrow it down to just using mediums to see if there's a big difference. The track would also need more corners. But yeah its definitely a good test to see if the benefit of having a differential in the corners would outweigh the extra weight and possible reliability concerns.
Getting them set up properly is the hard part. You need to pierce the big gear in the wheel but not the face plate, then attach the wheel and gears to the shaft before attaching the face plate, this will get you the best fit with out the little lateral play they tend to have. You may also need to trim the wall the middle gear sits on in order to have the wheels spin correctly, I find sometimes they have a bit of resistance if not sanded a bit.
Nice video! It seems pretty obvious what the intent of Low Friction is, to basically reduce the lock on your differential. Less binding on corners. The rear engine cars have less usable torque in the front anyway and the opposite on FMs. Giving away grip you can’t use for less bounce and less axle bind. I agree it would be nice to see way more comprehensive data. Look at how Grassroots Motorsports does their tire tests and model something after that.
Very informative content here sir. Hope there more content comparision on different setup on actual run. Not just like some other vlog thats more on explantion rather than actual run. More power on your channel sir. Godbless!!
Yes, I'd wondered why my AR Tuned Build was performing faster than most AR setups. I didn't realize that running two different compounds had a significant difference in overall speed.
I've currently only got the Junior Japan Cup circuit and am building a bigger track. It seems corner speed and stability on the lane change is the key, this may be the secret weapon :)
Very cool. Using the last configuration will definitely increase overall speed. If you start flying off from your lanechange, you may need to start increasing the angle of your front rollers.
Very nice vid Jan, btw how about the bounce comparison between all hard and low friction + hard, usually we race on speed tech and technical layout, which one is better
Hi Z3N, Pinoy UAE player here as well, just a suggestion, I think it will be better of a result if you're going to test each tire at least 10 times then average the time. Then you can definitively tell the difference. Thanks for the very informative videos Z3N! Keep it up.
Yes, that is correct. Consider a couple of things though. Running the same test 10 times and then times 3 takes considerably more time. In addition to that, it also requires 30 sets of new alkalines. Which I do not have nor care to spend the money. If I use rechargeable batteries instead, the process takes even longer! If you run the motor that many times, the performance starts to change and will affect the result, which adds another variable that we do not want. My prediction is this, even if I ran each tire setup 10 times, the difference to itself would be around +/- 1% Which can be considered negligible.
There are too many variables and in order to minimize those variables I chose to give them 1 run each. And as you saw, there was a clear difference in each configuration just from 1 run each.
Thanks for the reply point taken, off video topic question, do you have a video explaining roller angle effects? like what is the general angle to overcome 3 lane bridge, slope + curve etc. I know that will be depending on the track layout, your build etc, if you can just kindly give us newbies a rule of thumb regarding this. Thanks!
I generally stick to 5 degrees when I use 19mm HG rollers at the front. I usually do not go below that unless the lanechange is in a very slow portion of the track. But then again 5 degrees still handles more power so I'd still stick to 5. If you start flying off at the lanechange with 5 degrees try and increase to 7. If it still flies off, start praying to your God.
Good question. For super hard and low friction. I have not in the same manner as these non trimmed tires. But jave have used that combination in many of my Open Class builds. Check them out on my instagram. Link is in my RU-vid Bio. For Super Hard and Hard, i have them on my AR Chassis Basic Build Car. It is pretty fast. And I will do a comparison video of my basic build of MA, AR, and FM-A soon, so stay tuned to the channel.
Mr. Zen, I want to ask the distance between the brakes with the runway should be how many mm? whether the gear also affects, sorry the question is too basic a beginner like me. thank you
I don't understand your first question. A higher gear ratio like 4:1 has more torque, but less top speed. A lower gear ratio like 3.5:1 has less torque, but more top speed.
I think what he means is, what is the proper thickness of the brakes?, how mm it should be ?.. and is that any relation with the gear ratios... lets say if we want to change to high gear ratio, should we adjust the thickness of the brake... CMIIW...
no general formula for this one and no direct correlation (like thicker brake sponge means you have the up the gearing). You will have to assess and imagine the effects of each brake thickness as well as the gear ratio on the track layout. Use the vacant time before the competition starts to plan how you will tackle the course.
Yes, but that also makes it easier to clean. The question is, do you want a slower car that doesn't have dust in its bearings? Or, do you want a faster car with bearings that are easier to clean?
ashmo That's probably too much power dude. Maybe Hyper Dash at the most. The MA car is built for Tuned Motors, so try not to wreck your car with Mach Dash.
Z3N Bluster Okay then,if i want to use Mach Dash at my MA car, what would i need to modify up to final form like, chassis cut,hanging damper, trimmer wheel, and build suspension?
I 12 years old back then in year 2000. But our setup here in the Philippines is that we are using a RWD sponge tires, and only a roller at the middle of the front fiberglass add on bumper. The front wheels are not used, so our setup literally ran on 3 wheels The chassis we were using is a super one chassis or a version of the super one with no bumper. The brand was not tamiya, it was HJH. We had to reinforce the chassis with fiberglass sticks that fits flushed to the gaps at the side of the battery compartment. Though it did only a little to add stiffness. The thing we had back then seems more powerful than those you have tbh. But they were ridiculously fast that catching them barehanded with our hands guaranteed bruising or cuts. A crash was 100% damage to car, but HJH chassis were only like 2 dollars equivalent at the time. All the tracks on the highest level of competition must have no jumps for safety reason. Those cars even out performed a 1/8 onroad nitro rc car - a hobby I’m into now. It’s been 17 years since I’ve been in the mini 4wd hobby (rwd in my case), and I’m thinking of getting back at it. If it becomes popular here in the Philippines again, I would surely recreate the builts we had back then.
Sounds like you were racing on a high speed track. The track in this video is a technical track. It has slopes. The car setups required to maximize performance on these types of tracks are completely different from what you're describing. We race high speed too but we limit it to Tuned Motors. Here in the USA, it would be too dangerous to run very fast cars. If it flies out and hits somebody on the leg or worse, somebody will take you to court and sue you.
Z3N Bluster I recently got back to racing them again. Before I started, I was oriented about The three different classes. Pro-stock, speed-tech, and as you mentioned - high speed. At that Time we just want to be fast so my first true build was a high speed build. We didn’t have to deal with bumps. We didn’t deal with damping weights which didn’t exist back then. As a kid back then, I always was a bit scared everytime I ran The car. Ofcourse a car moving at those ridiculous speeds is no joke even my uncle was blacking off The track. The “oomph” you get from highspeed can’t be felt on pro stock and speedtech. But speedtech gave me The most headache. People don’t race highspeed in my country nowadays.
DXN Provisions. Located at Arcadia California. There is also a link in the video description down below. The link is also shown at the intro of every video.
It sounds to me like a high speed track. if there are no jumps and youre using a rainbow lanechange. Use Jet Dash. If you dont have a Jet Dash, use Ultra Dash.
The general knowledge is. Medium Diameters have less top speed, more torque, and lower center of gravity. Large Diameters have more top speed, less torque, and higher center of gravity. People generally trim large diameter tires to get the better center of gravity like medium diameter and also lose weight by having less rubber on the wheels of the car.
Michael Kenny Depends on the rules. If you're not allowed to trim your tires. Use Medium Diameter in a technical track. If you're allowed to trim tires. Use trimmed large diameter.
It sounds like you have underlying problems that sort of relate to your gears. If your Ultra Dash is slow. You may need to break-in your Ultra Dash or you need to work on making your transmission smoother. If your car is very loud, you need to work on your transmission.
Call them Medium Diameter, so everyone is clear. Yes. The center of gravity is low yet your top speed isn't going to suffer too much. If you you use Small diameter you risk having too low of a top speed. If you use Large Diameter you risk having a car with too high of center of gravity. Talk to your fellow racers to see and find out their reasoning as to why they use certain parts. We do not race, "Pro Stock," here in the States so I can only help you to a certain extent.
Z3N Bluster idol maganda ba yung revtune 2 para sa ganyang setup? nag build kasi ako ng MA ginaya ko yung nasa video mo. ganyan na ganyan. and sa gears po pala anong magandang substitute for 3.7.1? ... I super like your builds.
You mean the distance between my rear brakes and the track surface? There is no ideal distance. You need to change your setup according to the track. If there are alot of bank sections, your car will slow down too much unless you raise your brakes. If the track has many short length jumps, you need to lower your brakes.
There is no best motor for Tamiya. It depends on the track. Always adjust your car to the track for racing. There isn't a motor that will be good on ALL tracks.
Luky H4rr13r Yes but the car will be more likely to bounce out. I'm not sure if you noticed, but the All- Hard Tires configuration bounced more than the others.