Well he killed half a dozen in just one year, so theres no way to tell. Ironically, when he borrowed a stock 16v from someone and put that in the car he had no issues at all 😆😆
@@runningfree86Driftcomplexx Thanks for the answer. I think Largus are hollow, so the rear bar might be softer than or close to stock, actually. Do you remember the diameter of the Largus bar? Thanks!
The drysump pump pulley came loose and the belt said bye-bye to her. I didn't put enough hexagon socket set screws on the pulley(only two) inspite of it has 4holes since I didn't have inch size screws when I assembled the motor. Japanese industrial standard is not inch but meter.
@@runningfree86Driftcomplexx that’s so cool! One other question, have you always drifted 86s? I saw an old video the other day from a really old drift event and there were cars with Running Free stickers but I didn’t see an 86.
9K revs doesnt really work with 4age, according to ex-TRD OG's the 4AGE block, even the AE92/AE101 GZE block, starts flexing at anything more than 8.5k regardless how much balancing, this is why in Formula Atlantic you saw chassis members attached to the engine, when ALL else failed they desperately tried that to combat this, and they also used CNC machined reinforced girdle between block and dry sump pan (like Tomei and MRP makes today), and even then it didnt work.. Maybe if they cast the blocks so they'd be a few centimeters thicker on each side, or used aluminum blocks, the 4A-GE wouldnt have this problem, but they didnt. I would look at computer ignition timing with 8500rpm rev limit, MSD 6AL works well and kept a 200hp Gr.A rally engine (built out of substandard metallurgy TRD parts compared to today's Toda/Tomei/Carillo) in my AE86 alive for 17 YEARS with just normal maintenance, and what killed it was a former owner trashing it in a 5 minute burnout, that's 17 YEARS driven in complete anger and it didnt have any dry sump or accu sump or girdle or even reinforced oil pump gears... And most importantly, add ignition cut when no oil pressure. Yes, ignition cut will ruin the drift, but will save approx 5k crankshaft, 1k rods, 1k pistons, 1k cams, 800 dollar bearings, + machining & balancing so 15k total (approx/cirka/ballpark'ish). Don't get me wrong, I'm a big big fan of watching you trash the clutch at 9k, but those 500 extra RPM.. I've noticed you only REALLY get to use them in a few rare corners (where a 500rpm deficit doesnt make any difference) and it just IS NOT worth seeing you lose 10 high-spec engines... EVERY single year, year in, year out.
