Thank you all so much for posting this video. I have a similar project where the addition is lower than the kitchen. The subfloor is tongue and groove heart pine flooring. I wanted to match up the height and continue with kiln dried tongue and groove. Could I face nail them like you did in the video? Or should I nail it like regular hardwood floors? Thanks!
Absolutely our pleasure, you can face nail them just make sure you use galvanized ring shank nails so they don’t back out with floor movement. It’s really up to you sometimes when you just install finished nails in the groove like hardwood floor you can get buckling if there’s any kind of expansion. Also when you get your wood even if it’s kiln dried you still want to leave it in the room where the work is going to be done for a few days or a week to acclimate to the relative humidity in that room so you have minimal expansion specially with tongue and groove if it’s the one by six subfloor planking we install in this video it’s not too big of a deal because there’s the 1/8 gaps between the planks for expansion but when it’s tongue and groove you want the wood to acclimate pretty good to the structure before you do the install. We hope that helps you out good luck on your build👍😎
Thank you! This is the first video I found that wasn't a plywood subfloor, and I was starting to lose it, because I have to fix this spot in the bathroom floor by Monday!
So Happy I came across this. We’re currently facing a similar situation and are DIY ing to save cost. Questions: is it ideally best to replace the whole subfloor or are only replacing damaged planks good enough ? How durable are these planks ? Lastly , can I use a hammer n nails or is a nail gun recommended ? Thanks
You can just patch were needed, but definitely use subfloor glue liquid nails. And definitely you can use a hammer and nails but may split the wood. If you drill 3 holes on each end at edge as pilot holes will help with the splitting and use ring shank nails. You can toe nail the edges as well to help with the splitting if needed. Hope that helps
My house is 80 years old kitchen has the same wood planks in video question the middle of floor is way high seems like 1/4 maybe more higher I went to basement to see if beam was pushing up it was the opposite I have the 1/4 between subfloor and beam now I tried to place a few screws to pull the beam and put the subfloor down but didnt work can sand it down the high spots and put think 12 mm lament down on top or do I need to add a subfloor still on top of subfloor ? Omg
There must be something keeping it from sinking down to the beam. If you can’t get it to lock down tight on the beam, there are two things you can do one cut out that plant to the next Joyce with the 45° cut remove it set another plank in its place dry fit it first to make sure it’ll sit flush with the other planks. Then hit it with some glue and screws or nails and you’ll be good, other option is like you mentioned Sand down or grind down the high points then do the 12 mm Flooring should be good. Don’t forget the underlayment though. 👍
Hey thank you for the feedback I ended up wanting to see underneath the floor joist so I pulled 4 of them up where it was lifted ! In the middle of the house 2 huge beams that cross and meet up 1 of the beams was up 1/4 inch and other 1 is down so I will use my plainer and take some Material down should be fine unfortunately I damaged those floor joist what are they called at Home Depot to get new ones ? But I think I will be great now yeahhhhh👍
That is an awesome job . I have the same kind of floor I want to lay 3/4 plywood on top to make a sturdy floor " how should I screwed all through the joist or is there a different way?I am a little confused, if you can explained that that would be great. Thank you
That is a great question. Definitely lay down some subfloor glue on top of the one by six lay down your three-quarter inch plywood. Use tongue and groove plywood if you can and screw everything off to the existing floor joist. I would use coated screws minimum 2 1/2 inch or you can use ring shank nails 2 3/8 inch. Mark your layout on the wall where you see the floor Joyce going underneath then when you lay your plywood down, you can transfer your sub floor framing layout onto the plywood from the wall then snap your lines with a chalk line, then screw everything off. Just make sure you understand that laying down that three-quarter inch plywood on top of the subfloor is going to change your floor elevation at your doorway, leading into the other rooms you will have to put a transition threshold at your doorways, and may need to trim doors as well. Just something to keep in mind. Hope that helps you out remember to subscribe if you haven’t and don’t forget to give us that thumbs up. If you’d like to thank us, click on the thanks below the video and you can donate if you feel like you want to. 👍
You can use screws if you like but will take a little longer and won’t really be that much better. We are using ring shank galvanized nails with the subfloor glue it will not be going anywhere or squeaking and dose not split the wood as much either. All good either way just don’t use drywall screws lol. Thanks for watching
That is a great question! What I’ve seen done in the past is where the dip is you install a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch under laminate veneer plywood with subfloor glue then you grind down the edges to taper the edges to where it meets the level part of the existing subfloor. As far as the Framing goes if there is a post with base on a pad underneath the section that’s dipping you can remove the nails or screws from the post that connects the base to the girder then Bring in a 12 ton jack set it under the girder and jack up the section that’s dipping once that’s done and jacked up then pull out the existing post that you remove the screws or nails on and install a new one that should be at new height. Of course we recommend you hiring a professional to do this but that is one option that can be done. I would definitely get some recommendations from an actual hardwood floor installer see what they recommend. Thank you for the comment good luck with your project. 👍😎
I found out I had a similar subfloor in my house. I just removed the old carpet and there is old soft wood flooring above my subfloor which is just like the one you’re working on. The wood planking above the subfloor has gaps and squeaks a lot, I’m wondering if I should remove that planking down to the sub floor which is in great shape? I’m installing some vinyl plank flooring in both my living rooms and hallway. I don’t know if I can get rid of all the squeaking floor above the sub floor without removing it. What would you do? Thank you!!
Great question, there are a few ways you can get rid of a squeaky floor. You can add additional supports to the floor, Joyce, which will restrict movement in the floor, and will have less friction between joints and less squeaking or you can remove all of the existing subflooring and add three-quarter inch tongue groove subflooring with liquid nails, subfloor glue on the joist before you install your flooring and then use a ring shank or spin shank nail attaching the plywood to the floor joist That will also help get rid of the squeaks. You may want to add some additional blocking to your floor Joyce before you commit to removing all of your existing subfloor that may get rid of a lot of the squeaking. If so, may save you some money. 👍
THANK YOU!!! Everyone just wants to rip out or just patch with plywood. I’m trying to convince my partner this is the best way to repair our floor but I don’t know what kind of wood to buy!! Please help! At Home Depot it looks like the 1x6 3/4” is designed for wall usage not floor. SOS
This is the product below we use ⬇️ Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-S4S-Standard-and-Construction-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Hem-Fir-Douglas-Fir-Board-4/206517356
Thank you! Unfortunately that is out of stock near me. Do you have another recommendation? (My reply won’t post if I put a link in that I found, sorry) And last question! Is patching a small area with plank is better than plywood or are they equal?
Exactly what I was looking for. Quesion: How do you cut planking when only have access to bathroom floor? These boards run through bathroom & into adjoining rooms of house.
You will have to expose the subflooring wherever you want to replace it. Typically what we do is cut the planking about 2 inches away from your partition walls then add the backing below where you cut the sub flooring. Then you can attach the existing subfloor to the new backing and then run your new subfloor to the new backing you’ll have to do that on both sides of the wall. Hope that helps 👍 Let us know if you have anymore questions.
Great great question. It would actually be much harder and more expensive to remove all of the existing one by six subflooring. For example if you notice on the video the one by six goes underneath all of the existing exterior walls and interior walls so that means the bottom plates are sitting directly on the one by six. That being said if you cut around the perimeter of your entire room you will have a weak joint when it comes to the plywood butting against that left over 3 inch one by six that’s underneath the wall that you can’t get to. So what a typical good framer would do would be perimeter blocking like I showed in this video but they’d have to do that around the whole bedroom is install blocking right in front of all of your walls to receive your plywood edging to create a good connection between outside walls and subfloor it would be a lot more work. Now if the majority of the one by six is toast then definitely switch it out for three-quarter tongue and groove plywood and subfloor glue with ring shank galvanized nails would be good to go. Like I said absolutely great question thanks for asking and hope that helps. Have a wonderful day check out some of our other vids don’t forget to subscribe and like 👍🏻
This is what I have been doing with my old house. It's more work. But it's a better floor. You'll have places you'll have to add new joists, and on some of the walls, you'll need to scab in 2x6 for the osb to land on. In the end it costs more and is more work. But the floor comes out better. Also, if your floor is unlevel, then laying new osb gives you the option to level it just by adding in some new joists. Also don't forget to seal the out side seam of the new osb. These old 1x6 floors are strong but leak a ton of air and can make a ton of noise.
Fuck yall did an outstanding job. I dont believe the majority of contractors will take every step to make sure its as robust as it can be as a retrofit. I never really see anyone stagger the joints. but thats vital for longevity as the whole point of the floor system is to dicipate and pread out the load. I have to do this at my house. But im wondering for the small bit of termite damage like that do I have to get a whole house remediation or am I good to just replace it? Ive seen termites in the past but nothing in the past year or so.
If there’s no recent activity you may be able to just replace but typically if you’ve seen them they’re there. You may need to have your structure tinted. Do the repair before you tent. If not at least treat the area you repair with termite spray. Before you install finish flooring. Hope this helped 👍Thanks for the awesome comment we appreciate it very much. 👍😎
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Thank you, Yes it helps a lot! This is my first home so definitely new too all of this. I really appreciate it. One more question. What kind of wood is this subfloor? I had called a repair person and they did similar to what you did except they used picket fence and some crappy nails that squeak already and its just been a couple days lol. I feel like its not done correctly and I would have preferred he use sub floor screws. I kind of want to do it myself because I don't trust nobody else. to do it right.
@@Lilmiket1000 totally totally understand how you feel. The wood I used was Kiln dried Douglas fur from my local Home Depot one by six. It’s usually over next to the plywood separate from all the other one by material. If they use subfloor glue will help with squeaking and ring shank nails galvanized so they don’t back out with the floor movement or you can use a coated screw. Also if they don’t allow at least an eighth joint between planks it can expand in cause squeaking as well when walking on the floor. That’s why I like using the kiln dried because it’s not gonna shrink much when you bring on to your job site. If you use regular wood like a fence plank has a lot of moisture in it will have to acclimate at least two weeks to your property may shrink and expand while doing that. Hope that helps let us know if you have any more questions good luck with your project. 👍😎
@@shawnsingletary3791 you can get 1 inch plywood from BMC rip it down. You can get 1 inch pine as well from BMC or Ganahl Lumber. Sometimes it’s beneficial to rip out all the old wood and go with all brand new three-quarter inch plywood but then you may have an elevation change at your transition to the next room between doors. Then will need to put a threshold there.
Well, there’s a few ways you can do it if you really are adamant about poring self leveling cement on these type of subfloor there’s a few ways. You can run paper backed latheing or you can run some under laminate plywood 3/8 then do your self leveling lightweight cement. Hope that helps 👍
@@twoserve2449 I would recommend throwing down some tarpaper two ply or single ply is fine, stapled down then I would throw down some half-inch hardy backer board, locked in with hardy backer screws that would be really good product for you to install your hexagon tile to I’ve done probably 200 bathrooms that way and haven’t had one callback. Still looks beautiful 20 years later. That’ll pass inspection that’s code. You can sleep good at night with that being done that way. 👍😎
