Do you like this new COB style addressable LED strip or do you like the 5050 traditional style better? I'd love to hear your opinions! I think they offer a great new style to be used in projects! :D
i searched about efficiency, but not found any lumen ouput measured of them, or even a addressable led strip comparison. . i want to light up 20m at low level, but it would be nice to know which one is most efficient. i know, the 5050 are not really good, i hope the cobs are a bit better.
Are we talking RGB or white? For analog white it's all a bit easier to compare since the good vendors list lumen per watt, but that's usually for white only. For addressable RGB I'd certainly say these COB style strips are more efficient then a 5050 style one.
@@IntermitTech I want to use RGB. In the COB group, i noticed that the 12v variants need only 12watt and the 24v need around 23watt with the same amount of leds. These are values which btf lighting has on the homepage. I guess it is the controller which can use the lower voltage better instead of transforming down 24v to led level. If the values are real it makes almost no sense using the 24v variants.
@rolliseventeen unless it's also twice as bright. I haven't throughly tested the 12v version since the amount of zones of the 12v and 24v are the same and then I'd rather have the higher voltage. In that regard those 24v "addressable neon" are among the brightest addressable I've seen!
Another god tier video - thank you for your service to the LED strip community. I always look forward to your videos. An RGBW addressable COB like the SK6812 is what I'm really hoping to see on the market one day. Regardless, these high density COB strips are just so cool. I want them all!!
I will have one of the first RGBW addressable 24v in the next video! Sadly, it's not perfect and has downsides but I'll make sure to show that in the video about them! :D
@@IntermitTech every experience is appreciated with these products. here in germany one of the "safe Ways" to get a quality strip is the btf lightning shop. aliexpress: you never know, what you get... things (descriptions stay though) change over night, shops come and go..
Your deep dives into the led strip types is always appreciated but dangerous for the wallet in the best way. I am excited to try these out. Seeing new LED types is great to see! One thing that would be nice but doesn't really help with the main topic of the video is to put on screen what WLED effects you are using when showing the comparison shots.
Yeah I had planned this but kind of ran out of time and I don't always remember exactly either. I really like the Pallete, Pride2015, Rainbow, Saw, those I know for sure at least!
Finding the new COB style much more suitable for smaller projects and not having to worry about diffusion instead of using the old style and finding out that the leds are still visible after spending time diffusing them
Thanks for providing great information. I just found your channel and website, both super informative as I ramp up learning all this. Looking forward to the 24V COB lights video as it sounds like a good fit for my next project (long run, but very near and visible).
I don't know why it has taken so long for COB LED's to appear on strips, or other home devices?! I've got several rear bike lights that use COB LED's, and they are so much better than standard LED's. The higher density makes them stand out better and so visibility at distance increases.
can we get a link to that heart lamp? I really want to do this for my first WLED project and have a very rough model built currently but I dont know the best way to model the base to hide the esp and barrel jack inside it
Man I am blown away at the level of detail you provide. I'm looking for 24V LED Cob style for my Christmas lights and I would really like to use your affiliate link if you have one? Money isn't an option I'm just looking for the best option out there as far as weatherproofing and adding strips together to complete the length?
That one is most recommended yes and because it's only 5mm wide it can only take in 2Amps or so max so it's still slightly limited although for any normal usage scenario it'll be able to deliver 100%. More LEDs means even more power is needed, on 5mm it's 10w max because of the single injection point and 5mm with the dig2go. The 10mm variants will go up to 3Amp or so, so 15w max, maybe the 160LEDs/m 10mm can still look ok but it will be somewhat limited (depending on the total length).
@@IntermitTech so if I only needed 1m or 2m, I would get away with the higher density ones, e.g. 160/m. The ones with more than 300 per meter are out of the question, right?
Sure that's no problem! Basically, with a 10mm strip you can say you can get 15w in to one point with a dig2go. So you can calculate with the given numbers for that length. If 100% one color or 50% RGB white is close to that 15w number, you'll be able to run without limiting. If it's say double, so 30w you can generally still do it, effects that don't activate all LEDs will run nice and bright but effects that do activate them all will run less bright so there are limits how far you can go with that.
Thank you very much for your description, I just started to play with LED and thanks to you I just skipped a lot of search on the subject. I subscribed so I don't miss any of your videos. BR from Czech Republic.
Could explain pixel count with these and wled? I have a set of fcob rgbic 720 led per meter. I just don't know the number of led is it 36 it says 1 pixel equals 36 led and I ic so 20 ic per meter. So I segment is 36 led but counts as 1 led? But it says 720 led per Meter . 3600 total. I think in the end it's 20 per meter 100 per 5.
You basically count the ICs on the strip. Normally they then say each IC is an RGB LED but on these they went event trickier since they are not in a single 5050 package. 720 is R+B+C! So 720 / 3 = 240 RGB LEDs! Then it's 12x per color diode in series per chip so 240 / 12 = 20 zones per meter or 100 per 5 meter.
If anyone else is reading this. The type with less ic is a waste when you can buy the same strip with alot more ic witch is more addressable leds. Why would you want them in groups of 36 led and only 100 groups . So there are strips with more chips and more groups same price. I just struggle to see the different applications.
Well there is reasons for that though. You need the amount of LEDs in series to drop the voltage from 24v to around 3v which the LED diodes themselves use. I'd rather also have higher resolution options but higher voltage comes with tradeoffs in that sense. If you need high resolution the 5v addressable COB versions go up to 332LEDs/m!
Is there an equivalent Zigbee version of this controller? I’m sure I’m not the only one out there thinking of wireless network failsafe’s to maintain smart system operability during router or hub downtime…
Hi, I’m doing a project that needs 250 linear feet of LED strips, I like the COB, or addressable neon like you say. But how can I get one of your controllers or the necessary power I would need to inject the strips every 10 feet or so? Thanks
So, I’m new to the led game. I’m making small projects, trying to back light old slot machine glass. Any recommendations on buying a cheap, decent led set or should I make my own? Also, any video recommendations on doing my own setups?
Physically for the 5mm you do so on the bottom! They are tiny pads but it's certainly possible, I happened to post a picture on my Discord while working on this video since each strip was triple injected (front + middle + end) for power testing! On some, that wasn't even enough!! But that's how I test 5v strip so those numbers I put down and added a note. The 10mm strip is a bit easier and they just have pads on the top (and bottom) you can use. But basically, peel back the bottom cover and sticky cover and then there is pads like you normally see on top. Make sure to insulate these well if you are putting them inside a metal profile diffuser!
maybe I missed it, but what about the heat dissipation for the high density strips? Heat is the absolute enemy and will make a strip fail within short time, so that needs attention. I had several projects with 144led/m WS2812 strips with no good ending since cooling was not done well
This is a very true fact! Basically it scale with the amount of power used, if it uses more power, heatsinking becomes more important. The COB LEDs themselves are a bit more efficient then traditional 5050 package style ones, especially the older ws2812b but still, when you are getting up to 240LEDs/m and want to run them with high brightness cooling is certainly a requirement, good point!
Great video as per usual :) I think these new cob strips will excel at small things, that require high resolution. When the price goes down we might start using them more often but the 5v requirement, being the cob type and high resolution really makes them great for things like mood lighting and such. Super cool!
Yes exactly, that's why I wanted to present them and all the different variants! Exciting new options, especially buying those lights pre-made and then replacing the LEDs inside for instance! :D
@@IntermitTech precisely what I thought! Or those cool 3D printed cubes and moons, that you stick lights inside. Stick a cylinder with a strip rolled around and you get something unique, professional looking and with wled very powerful too.
Great video. I just have one question. With the cob LEDs is each COB individually, addressable or are they bunched into groups? On Amazon I found 24v 630leds/meter but in the description they have this note “Group of 63LED addressable. 1 pixel=1 IC chip=63LED” does this mean that each group of LEDs of 63 would only be addressable as one individual rather than all 630leds being addressable? Where can I find truly individual COB strips?
You can find the link for the 20w version in my link but it's only their way to differentiate between the 5mm and 10mm since the 5mm accepts half of the power per injection point. Since I test everything 5v with front + middle + end injection I was much less limited because of that, I don't believe the 20w version will really use more but just that it has more copper on the strip since it's wider. But check the shops in the links, they have both versions!
Saw a couple of others discussing heat and that's my concern as well. The 332 strip would be ideal for the project I'm working on and I only need two strips less than a quarter meter. But it would be enclosed inside of transparent pla that starts to warp around 50-60 degrees C. I've measured the temp of a 160 strip I've got it it read around 39c. So does that mean the 332 strip would be around 78c, or does is the heat increase less than that when you double the leds? I would just get a strip and check myself and return it if it's too hot, but rule of thumb according to a lot of people is never return anything from Aliexpress.
Great video as always. I did not get why you needed two esp32. Indeed without added hardware it can drive 22 strips in full parallel mode and when using couple of shift registers 120 strips in full parallel
Yeah, if it's not doing anything whatsoever in a vacuum. When running WLED, calculating the effects, gamma correction and everything associated with that, no so much and it runs out of horse power after around 2000 to 2500 LEDs.
@@IntermitTech with wled maybe but here is the esp32 gathering up to 73 universes displaying the results on 12k leds and doing rotation and scaling on top of brightness and gamma calculations. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sYtVOU8Hpss.htmlsi=qRMkS9LnIZKO3NLE. The refresh rate of the panel is 130fps. Wled is a great all in solution plug and play wich I like but it doesn’t allow to use the full power of the esp32. I have a question regarding the cob high density. Are they easy to cut ?
I bought a dig octa for my Christmas LED project, now I'm just having some problems connecting the brainboards. wled only finds one of the two brainboards each time, how do I solve this? thank you in advance.
How do you mean "WLED finds" you mean the app? Try the WLED Native app, also check in your router, both should have their own IP address. Also don't configure WiFi and Ethernet at the same time, that can cause issues.
@@IntermitTech I only find one IP address each time, they must indeed have their own IP address, but when I connect to my router via WiFi, I always only find one IP address and it cannot find the other. I therefore connected them one by one to WiFi, but when I start them both I only find one.
@@IntermitTech I will try again next week, I have worked with esp cards before and never had any problems, I then had a list of ip addresses that I could connect to, hopefully next week I can get some help from someone who worked with your material before. I will keep you informed.
Poh, those are a bit harder to do in my opinion since there are literally dozens of variants out there and then they can all be combined with lots of different style LED strips, making it very hard to present just one or a few basically. I have one in mind I've shown off in a livestream before, so we'll see!
Thanks Q, I am currently making a infinity cube with aluminum extrusion. I went the 3030mm size as I could only find LEDs of 7mm to fit the side of the extrusion. Now seeing the 5mm COB lights and how good the 160 per metre perform, next cube will be running them I think using the smaller 2020 frame. Using a digital with 3 power and data inputs.
Awesome yeah, that should look great! Just make sure to add a few power points since the 5mm take in less per injection point. The numbers in real-world sheet for 5v are always triple injected so front + middle + end for 5m.
Здравствуйте. У меня есть лента и я не знаю производителя написано RGBIC LED Neon Rope Lighs модель SKS-JZ-14 питание 12 v но у него есть 4 провода (+красный - черный и зелёный и белый) я бы хотел подключить его WLED ESP32. Могли бы вы помочь мне подсказать как это сделать Я пробовал как обычно это сделать но лента горит только белым цветом .????
Здравствуйте. Скажите пожалуйста как сделать так чтобы любой эффект например стирание или Android пробежал ( сработал в один раз в конец ) и остановился а не повторилось без конца надеюсь вы поняли о чем я. Зарядное Спасибо благодарю.
I am going to be doing the house numbers for my house real soon. Will be 141 in 6inch numbers. Should I use the strips you have listed in the worldwide store or look at one of these options? Thanks for all your hard work you do on your videos.
Either will work in that sense, the 198LEDS/m strip is kind of expensive (since it was partly a custom product) and I expect the 160LEDs/m or 240LEDs/m to do just as well and likely cheaper I think.
@@IntermitTechwould you do the COB strips you talk about in this video? Just trying to make sure I can get it to fit inside and cut it. Thanks for all your amazing videos.
I like the videos, but I can't handle turning your head left/right so often and so far. Gotta chill on that! Like 10% of the turning would probably be fine. BTW, running LEDs in the reel will overheat them.
I'd say so yes because it has many more diodes, but if you watched the video you now know, compare Watts, highest watt will usually win in regards to brightness! ;)
@@IntermitTech do you have affiliate links for the 12V and 24V strips? Shopping for these strips to avoid as much power injection. I know you have a video coming, but need to order early to get them delivered before the holidays :)
Sure, some of them are in my guides already. Easiest would be to check out my "addressable neon" vidoe, that description has links for sure! Thnx for thinking about that! ☺️
Have you done a video on wires and amps? I see so many LED videos about setups, batteries etc but none of them go deep into the wires they use. They just say something like, I'm using a 12V 25A 300watt power supply with 18 gauge wire. I don't get how people can use such little wire gauge with such big amp setups.
For sure, check out this one, it will teach you how to actually calculate everything instead of random guessing or "I used this" which you indeed often see. quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/
@@IntermitTech This helped greatly. You personally like 18 gauge as per your site's comments. And this comment helped greatly too, assuming I understand it correctly, "If you are, for instance, single feeding a 100w LED strip which runs at 24v and needs 5 meters of cable this requires 4,16A of power and thus a wire thickness of 0.75mm2 to transfer it over those 5 meters. If you however double feed the cable (from both ends) the requirement per cable is only ~2A so thinner cables can be used!" So you're saying that if we power inject at both ends this can halve the wire gauge requirements, is that right? My system will be 13 meters of WS2812B LEDs. I have a 12V 25A 300W LED power bank and the system will appear to use 12V 22A 260W. Since 18 gauge wire can support up to 16A (according to Google) and I'm power injecting from start and end, I should be able to use 18 gauge wire at start and end to balance the load. What type of fuse would you suggest I use, 2 x 13A fuses for the start and end power injection sites?
So almost. If the total your strip needs is 4A, a single injection will be able to deliver it 4A and thus you calculate the cable length an diameter you need for the to stay under 10% drop. If you now however power front + end because of resistance on the strip it will automatically load balance between the two cables and thus each will only carry a maximum of 2A and thus you can again calculate cable diameter needed to stay below 10% drop for each given length. In your other example however if you need 22A total this means you will need front + middle + end for 4A + 8A + 4A for up to 16A you can inject and still won't be able to reach that 22A you calculated to need. Thus it becomes front + middle + Middle + end. That gives you the potential to do 4+8+8+4 and thus 24A in total covering the 22A you calculated you'd need. Then you take each injection and put the expected power number + length of that injection from the power supply in a voltage drop calculator, stay below 10% drop and that will give you the cable diameter required for it to work correctly. Although 18AWG might not melt from 16A, it might transport that with 0.2v voltage drop for a 10cm wire or 6v voltage drop for a 10m wire. It's a current + distance equation! Hope it helps! P.s you seem to be mixing 5v LEDs with a 12v power supply? And your numbers for current for those LEDs seem very high, did you calculate using 50% white as explained in my video?
@@IntermitTech Apologies, the LEDs are WS2815, 12V. Looking on your data sheet it has the white LEDs at 50% as 27.00 (watts?) So over 13 metres that's going to be 70.2 watts in total. So my LED power driver should be, say, 150 watts / 12V = 12.5A (in the event I want to increase the brightness % slightly) Full brightness seems to cap out around 51watts per strip for all red. At 13 metres that's 132.6 watts of red at 100% brightness. Is this right? Getting the power right is the hardest thing! 🤯
Awesome video - I’m just finishing my 1st ever WLED project using the DigiQuad & this video gave me some ideas for my youngest son’s computer desk/study area. I see the purchase of an 8 channel Octi board in the near future
@@IntermitTech i’m interested in the natural reflections like fire, water ripples, tumbling leaves in the wind lol, etc. Also I have an electric wheelchair. I would like to sync the chasing (or patter loop whatever) with the speed of my wheelchair so it looks as if the light is coming from the ground and not from my chair.
I have found these new Cob style to ONLY work at full power, and 2/3 of WLED effects are too complex to work. Also hard to solder and make connections, esp when not well marked; not every pad set is suitable for connecting.. Overall, not for same use as regular, when battery powered. ONLY FULL BRIGHTNESS otherwise flashing and color shift.
I have seen none of these issues? Yes especially the 5mm variant can be harder to solder. But only full brightness is very odd? Even in this video I show them with various brightness and such?
@@IntermitTech Thanks for reply/update. Have you tried making a section with a new connection? That is where this issue occurs, and things change depending where the string ends, cut 1 off the end and pattern changes. I am keying into possible signal hertz, you mentioned, and different PWM pins output at different strengths on ESp32/Arduino.
We are talking about digital strip right? Because no matter where I have cut mine, they behave as expected. Nothing PWM about these too if you are using digital. They however do require a proper level-shifter and data resistor to function well, don't do well with 3.3v data signal directly from ESP32. But that goes for most strips so I would assume you are using the proper circuit or controller? Otherwise that might be the cause.
WS2812B COB RGBIC Pixels LED Strip Individually Addressable 60/100/160Leds/m WS2812 Smart RGB Dream Color Tape DC5V LED Chip Model-SMD5050:LED Chip Brand Epistar Yes, I am using a Esp32 and 8266 with level shifters GPIO 2 and 0. The PWM attachement is that arduino changes Hrtz as PWM changes... so I've just read, and that on Arduino different pins have different Hrtz..my brain applies that to ESp also? but that stuff is new area and deep to me.
Add: I have 2 different controlers, well tested with other regular lED strips, 2 out puts each. I have made aboyt 20 connection attemps(wire soldering) as possible overheating suggested, But, in the end, at low brightness they perform incorrectly( 4 sections made out of 2 different 60/100 strips)
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. 👍👍👍 I just ordered this lights FCOB LED Strip Light 5M IP68 840 LEDs DC24V RGB COB LED Neon Lights FOB High Linear Soft RA90 Dimmable Will this be a good fit for the Octa system with the 7 power board? 1500w 24v power supply
Hi Quindor. I am on a journey with my LED's installations and thanks to your channel so far. so good. I have purchased a number of Diguno's and all is working great. I decided to try a ws2811 24 Cob 720/m via a link your provided and it has arrived. I have a 24v 6 amp power supply as I only plan to use the 5m of the strip. My question is what settings do I use for the LED preferences. Your help would be much appreciated.
@@Elvewizzy. It looks great. Setting up was easy in WLED. The effects are much different than the individual addressed led strips as the colours change in sections as opposed to individually.
