M4 call down for posch was crushing, really love the guy and been watching his progress. hope it doesnt effect his confidence in the future. seems so nitpicky since it was barely used in the climb at all
It's pretty wild that Ondra can't even use footage from his World Cup attendances for his own videos, yet someone else gets to completely reupload the video for their own use.
I wonder about one thing: On the first boulder there is this long reach to the blue hold before top. The right foot is placed on a large white volume. I learned that feet should be as far from the wall as possible so that you can lean into the wall. But all competitors placed their foot rather close to the wall. Does anyone know why? Is it a reach thing?
I think it's a friction thing. The area of the volume where you can stand on is rather small and steep so you want to have as much shoe on it as possible. :)
The IFSC have become a complete joke and have ruined competitive climbing at this point. The route setters are horrible, setting dangerous parkour moves that hurt athletes just to make a show for the crowd. Judges that can't do their job. What a shitshow competitive climbing has become.
While M1 was already dreadful Gibbon Parkour nonsense, what were they thinking setting the second move in M3!? I guess in less than 2 years the IFSC-🤡🤡 will start hauling in some water basins and call it Ninja Boulder WC.
