🔴 Why In The Heck Does One Bayonet Cost Twice As Much As The Other ? 

Do they make ar 15 Bayonets? May be dumb question but I never heard of one. I would like to have one.

I got my Ontario bayonet from an Afghan army soldier that lived with us on our COP. I traded him a crappy digital camera for it.

~A Sharp Knife is a Safe Knife. ~I have Bayonets for my AK, AR and my beloved M14, but I have not yet used them for anything purposeful. ~My collection consist of original AK Bayonets as well as the M6, M7 and M9 US Bayonets, in addition to the M6 I brought back from my tour in Vietnam.

The back side near the tip for wire cutting isn't meant to be razor sharp. It needs to be a little blunt to serve the purpose as a wire cutter.

Blood grooves isn’t a thing. Fullers are put in to make the blade lighter by giving the blade more surface area with the amount of material being used.

This guy doesn't know anything about knives. Also IKEA is Swedish not Italian. Don't ever disrespect.

The saw back is not designed to saw through wood and stuff. it's designed to help you escape through sheet aluminum and Plexiglas like in a crashed helicopter. Which I once did while I was in the army and in a Blackhawk that got shot down. This was pre M9 days and I was using an air force survival knife, but it worked to get my buddy out of the aircraft.

It's OK to buy Italian made pizza lol

I know its an old video but hopefully by now someone has told you that a blood groove is literally just a way to expand the metal without adding weight. The blood suction thing is a myth and wouldn't work anyway because the groove doesn't extend out to the end of the knife. If anything that design would create slightly more vacuum.

Both the blade and scabbard of the S&W Bayonet look identical to the $35 Wartech Bayonet. I wouldn't be surprised if they're both made by some Chinese OEM.

Mine came decently sharp, I couldn't saw my hand over it like you described. However the point is very very sharp. Deadly sharp. With a few minutes of work it could cut paper no problem.

There are stories about trench warfare, if your bayonet does get stuck, firing a round into the enemy body will help the bayonet break free from the body

My favorite “you got get out there and cut some shit down”😂fr 💯

A bayonete is not a knife and therefore is not supposed to be sharp. Bayonetes are for stabbong, not cutting. When I was in the Army, we weren't allowed to sharpen our bayonetes. The M9 is one of the worst bayonetes ever issued. They are heavy and intended to do too many things. I'd rather have an M7 over an M9 any day. There is also no such thing as a "blood groove" they are called fullers and are meant to lighten the blade while retaining strength. Any other explanation for them is wrong and a myth. There is no vacuum formed when you stab someone and a fuller will not make any difference in the difficulty in pulling the blade out. And the original "saw back" design is not intended to cut wood. It is mainly intended to cut through the thin metal of aircraft skin and to aid in pushing the metal out and away from you using the notches to catch on the edges so you can make a hole to get out through, and to cut through rope and thin vines. It is not made to cut wood and that should be very obvious by it's design. Don't waste your money on an M9 for survi al or hinting purposes, you eill be disappointed. They only offer the "tacticool" factor and are not practical for anything other than their intended uses.

Your comment about the machinist cutting his material cracks me up! That's not how it works making part in large quantities. I think the forged hilt would be faster and cheaper to make than machined part? I doubt the hilt would ever break on either one? And the blood grooves thing, that's to build strength to the blade, I don't think anyone that's been stabbed to death ever had a problem with the knife getting stuck 😂

I have the S&W bayonet. I've trained and shot a good bit with it attached. Never had an issue. It's actually a pretty sturdy knife. My only complaint is the edge is so thick it is hard to sharpen. Then again, you don't want your bayonet to have a razor edge in case you have to go prone with it attached. Accidents happen.

I ordered an m-9 and am anxiously waiting for it to come in, I’ll take the official issue that I had and know the quality It’s a spear before it’s a knife lol Meant as a thrusting weapon

I bought a M-9 bayonet that was just under $40 and is a serious piece of equipment. Fully sharpened. Not my last knife but an important one in my arsenal

that's why the Chinese and French bayonets are triangular spikes , tapered hole , not worth a damn for cutting anything , but pull out easier than a flat blade .

Bro, it’s not a cutting device. It’s a stabbing device. Also, you remove the bayonet by pulling the trigger. USMC tips 🙂

I love my Ontario M9 it looks awesome on my 590A1 btw..it’s called a fuller not a blood groove.

I have an Ontario M9 (used by a military unit) and had no trouble at all getting a good edge on it in 5 minutes. the wire cutter works well and will cut nails and fence wire, but not hardened spring wire. The reason the blade does not go through the handle is so you can cut electrical wire without getting shocked. Also, there is a YT video where someone put the M9 on a rifle, impaled the blade in a block of wood, and bent the knife until it failed. It took a lot of force, leverage, and working back and forth to get the knife to break. That FRP handle is very strong and you will not break this bayonet with your hands.

Generally, 400 series (420? 440?) Stainless which the Smith and Wesson are made from is generally considered soft steel, especially when you compare it to 1095. Since they don't list it as an HC (High Carbon) it will be more flexible, in the cold, then say AUS8. 1095 is more durable and will keep an edge longer than 400 stainless, and I gotta say, hundreds, if not thousands of 1095 Kabars have been used and abused over the years, without breaking a tip. It really depends on it it is a clip point, and the grind angle. Ontario Air force survival knives are 1095, and the tip is known for breaking, though I have never broken mine. Victorinox used 420 (and 440?) steel and is considered soft, easily bent, easily dulled. AUS8 is known to be tough stainless, but I have found it to be brittle in the cold, and 1095 to be more forgiving.

Man this dude is AWESOME!

My question is why does a single Ontario m9 bayonet cost as much as a good shotgun (Maverick 88)? Bayonet is a simple knife no matter how you look at it and it's not complicated to manufacture.

The S&W has a pouch for a sharpening stone, I like that, but the sheath will not fully set down when on the gun. Had to cut a small grove to get it to set down all the way.

Hi ~ Knife Guy again. The Ontario has actual saw potential even with the forward stroke. What the S&W has (and most Rambo knives etc, are Not really for sawing wood or anything else. Most folks think those ridges on the spine are a "Saw", but they are not. All ridged spines like that are copied from the Randall "Survivor" knife from his forge during Viet Nam. What they were made to do is to Rip-out the aluminum sides of downed helicopters. Other blades sometimes have a sort of saw on the spine, (like the old Marble's Pilot Survival knife) but the Big notches ya usually see were put there by Randall for a specific purpose. On a bayonet like the M-9 those ridges would make a horrible "Harpoon" effect. Very nasty. Good Luck ~ You have a great channel. Thanks for all the work you put into it ! B.

I've got a question... I'm a beginner at this whole knife thingy.. i know a little than before watching videos.. and I realized that this knife is not actually for survival.... Splitting rope, ect'.. but I want that knife to my birthday and I believe that this knife can handle cutting ropes.. cutting some small trees maybe.. and be useful to making some fire easily. What's ur opinion about that?

Bayonets by design are supposed to be blunt to cause more trauma to the body if you have a sharp blade you make a clean cut if you have a dull by design knife like a bayonet it makes a hell of a dirty cut . I was bummed out in boot camp when I got my first bayonet the realization it could barely cut open an MRE and only by stabbing into it kinda a let down once in the fleet you realize you gotta buy one a good knife two make yourself a field survival kit to put in your pack and a lot of Pogie bait because to many MRE meals make for a sticky number 2 if you know what I mean!

I have an M9 and I took it apart and fit a solid tang via a piece og galvanized pipe fited to the blade tang and a hardened steel roll pin placed through the handle/ pipe. Then I drove the nylon handle over that and added stacked leather over the end with the locking attachment so it is able to fit a carbine AR15. The handle is a little longer and there is no chance of the tang breaking off. Its tough as nails.

i ran through the bayonet course a few times when I was in the Army. Bayonetting things is exhausting.

if it was north Italian made it was most likely Chinese made. Chinese bought up a lot of factories in northern Italy.

Bayonet is important! I definitely want one for all fighting shotguns I have . Good tool for desperate times of need .

Bayonets aren't supposed to be sharp because when you're running, jumping into vehicles, crossing fences, or stacking up in confined areas you don't want to cut yourself or your buds. We always carried a boot knife or something similar in our packs for cutting work and carabiniere cutters for ropes and cigars.

I got the Smith & Wesson Special Ops M-9 Bayonet with a black powder spear point blade and a textured nylon handle from Big5 for about $30 the s&w site has it priced at $109. The edge has a notched spine and deep grooves. Included is a black scabbard with a large storage pouch, a sharpening stone, and wire cutters It was the last one big 5 had so I got lucky on price only thing I did replace the sharpening stone with a much better wet stone Features: Blade Length: 7.8" Overall Length: 12.8" Weight: 0.9125lb Blade Material: 420J2 Stainless Steel Handle Material: Thermoplastic Rubber

Damn I’m 36 and I learn something new every day.

You would need to add an abrasive compound to your belt to actually do much to a knife edge. It would be like trying to sharpen steel with a cleanex.

purchased the ontario. actually came sharp enough to shave with out of the box, not that i would lol. Id take that over the smith any day as its made in the us, and has a lifetime warranty.

Have the earlier Ontario M9 on my 590A1 and it’s awesome. It was fairly sharp, but not really sharp. Have no real intention of using it for anything unless I actually have to use it one day. You never know.

You should get the Ontario OKC 3S Bayonet/ I's pricey but definitely a badass Bayonet that's full tang. I don't agree on what you said, I would rather have a high carbon steel than a stainless. That's why stainless is cheaper than high carbon blades. I have a Cold Steel Recon Tanto in SK5 and it's RH is 63-65 and it can pierce steel drums and still cut paper!! Can't do that with a stainless steel blade flawlessly!

I have a M9 bayonett (smith and Weldon)

That blood groove thing is a commonly repeated myth. It’s called a fuller and it’s there to increase rigidity and slightly lighten the weight. It does nothing to help or hinder pulling the blade out of a target.

Those serrations on the spine of the Ontario is not a saw, it's meant to shred the top of the wound cavity on the initial thrust to your target, that's why it doesn't cut wood that well, its basically a meat shredder.

The Smith and Wes comes with a sharpening stone in the back we take the cover apart part

I believe the ltl pouch on the side is for a sharpening stone, a small one but sure would be better than nothing. Peace!

i thou;ght the grooves were a way to reduce weight while keeping the strength. like an I beam

Didn't know IKEA was Italian, LOL

I cannot speak to the Smith bayonet but there were something like 450,000 M9s produced. It will accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns on up. It is also a thick and wide blade that is more of a knife than a spear point bayonet like the M7. It is stainless steel. All these features and more make it cost more. The M7 is a parkerized carbon steel spear point blade and there were over 3,000,000 produced. It has one job and that is a bayonet unlike the M9 that can be used for multiple jobs. The M7 will not accommodate M4 carbine length carbines and shotguns. It will accommodate M4 mid length carbines on up. So production numbers and the blade composition/features play a big role in a bayonet's price/value. Then there are new and surplus bayonets that also play a role in price/value. I have plenty of knives but I wanted a bayonet for my M4 mid length so I got the M7.

That screw driver is not there to take apart the bayonet.That is why the Marine's OKC 3S does not have a screw driver or a way to take bayonet apart.

I was actually researching bayonets when this video came out

Great video... I have been looking for a bayonet to add to my AR (nobody I know has one on any of their builds..).....per the usual great info... Be blessed bro

Like you said, S&W is better for cutting and using as a knife, but Ontario m9 is made for combat using such as piercing, cutting wire, tough and sturdy works... And due to the pressure comes on it's blade, it must be blunt. Thanks for comparing both in a video. I suggest you to also compare Buck 188 bayonet with them.

7:28 not trying be mean but that's some Rambo lore

I actually have bayonetted a living creature, a woodchuck in my backyard. Old Mauser bayonet on matching stock, no barrel. After 3 thrusts I left the vermin pinned until he died. Had no issues withdrawing the blade. Bugger just wouldn't quit.

Any bayonet that will fit an M-16 will work with an AR-15 as long as it has a bayonet lug.

One is a bayonett and one is a warcrime, if you consider the geneva convention

Metal does not have grains it has shapable crystal structures. When the strike occurred by the drop forging dye , it aligned the existing crystals to compress and go into the desired direction gaining strength by the compression of the crystalline structure because they are compressed and closer together. This also makes for a better edge retention after sharpening.

Ikea is from Sweden not Italy.

The okc is now $250 and it’s probably going up even higher now the company is closed

Also "blood" groves that may help in retrieving your knife but that is not the original intention it's for making the knife lighter and stronger

All of my bayonets seem to be sharp. I have never sharpened any of them. I used an M7 when I was in the Army. I still have it and love it.

to remove a stuck bayonet, either use your foot or pull the trigger and blow them off.

Lancay & Ontario here! Don't use them, just collect. Would like to get a Probis, cost way too much!

Put an edge on it all you like it just won’t stay there. I use my okc m-9 to dig up weeds mend fences and throwing it. It’s made the way it is so it’ll be modulated. If one part fails it can be disassembled and replace the part(s) as needed. Ontario bonds the hilt to their tang but earlier models the sheath could be used to remove the screw on tang. In my opinion though M-9’s are over built pieces of crap and you should get the okc 3s that Ontario also makes. It’s a superior bayonet/knife that functions well as a knife or bayonet. The M-7 isn’t bad either.

Most S&W knives aren't made very well from my experience with them. Maybe the M9 is worth trying but not if it over $70. The blade being non-full tang is one of the reasons I haven't added 1 to my collection. It's in bad need of a redesign!

I'd prefer the dulled OKC...if I need to use it, then I'm gonna rip and tear until it is done....you can't stitch that up! Lol

I wonder if my sport 2 can take that S&W bayonet I don’t need it and it’s so impractical but I feel the need to have it 😂

I'd say it would be useless in modern combat (unless it's close contact) But it could be useful in a zombie Apocalypse

This is a bayonet, not a knife. It's not sharp, but has a strong tip. Its only purpose is to penetrate a body and cause bleeding or damage an organ, not for slashing attacks like a saber. If you sharpen it to use it as a knife, you are weakening it in it's primary function. There are bayonets that are just a spike. I don't know anyone who took theirs with them, instead of their personal knives. I'd rather have a kabar with me. I can't recall the last time anyone used a bayonet in combat or there was a bayonet charge. Korean war or Vietnam?

Honestly why bayonets are not sharp is because they are used as a stabbing tool and can be used as wire cutters. They are not meant to be sharpened. Non sharpened bayonets are safer for the user when affixing bayonets, and when using as wire cutters. IJS So just like you said yourself, straight out of the box it is not a knife, because it is a bayonet.

Same here go with the ontario.I bought a shrader, has cheaper steel, no wire cutter, and serrations. it would be better to havethicker blade to hammer on. best comment is you need a mid length gas system, a carbine gas systen cuts your knife down to just a few inches. things I learned after buying...

you had me a taiwan. no i knew the s&w would be made in some asian sweat shop. OKC is made 50 miles from me in Franklin NY.

Bayonets are a stabbing weapon. I've heard they're NOT supposed to be sharp. The reasoning I've heard as to why is that if you actually had the bayonet on a rifle and used it to stab someone then a sharp bayonet is more apt to cut its way deep into bone and then potentially be very difficult to get out of someone. A dull bayonet will either crack a bone or at least not cut as deeply and therefore allow it to come out of the stabbed person more easily. I know that bayonets are, or at least were, issued dull. I've heard in Vietnam, sharpened bayonets were confiscated and replaced with dull ones.

"Straight out of the box, this is not a knife..." Correct. It's a bayonet. Not a knife. It wasn't designed to be a knife.

The biggest problem I see with the S&W piece is those stupid huge serrations. Useless for a bayonet. The serrations on the Ontario are much more useful. Don't have a belt sander? That's why they make files.

Don't believe the top edge is suppse to be sharpened , it's "eased" for a reason but not sharpened for cutting , by easi g it it makes it easier to plunged

My guess is the price gap is largely due to the difference in hourly wage between Chinese children and American Union workers. S&W knives are nothing more than a licensing gimmick, as they do not actually have a factory themselves that they make knives in. Last time I checked they had licensed the S&W name to Taylor Brands and then purchased Taylor Brands through another of its divisions. Taylor Brands is mostly known for buying up the name of defunct US makers like Schrade, Old Timer, Uncle Henry, Camilus, etc. and then making the knives in it's China factory. Having owned a few S&W knives I can tell you although they are at times somewhat functional, however there is certainly no pride in ownership.

You are incorrect on your information on steel. Carbon steel, as it pertains to knives, is harder and sharper than the majority of stainless steels on the market. The main reason the bayonets are made in 420 Stainless Steel, other than rust resistance, is that it's very cheap to mass produce. Most of the cheap knives you find on the market coming out of China are 420 or 440 Stainless.

In spite of your issue any ontario blade is better than any sw blade. Ontario has been making machetes and knives for the USA military since ww2.

The Ontario M9 is not made from stainless steel...

The S&W does not have an NSN . If you sell to uncle sam you can gouge the hell out of them .

you forgot one thing; OKC...MADE IN U.S.A. S&W.....china

Those are not blood grooves. That is a myth. The grooves are for weight reduction.

Sharp bayonets don't tear flesh as well as full ones. It makes wound repair more difficult than a nice cut.

Back thrust is always better.

Let me know when a light saber that can actually cut something comes out.

I live in Pa.,last I knew in this state attaching a bayonet to a RIFLE is illegal...... stupid law

Its not ok buying italian cars, unless you have a crush on your local italian car repairsman or in some rare cases woman.

every video I’ve seen of people reviewing the OKC M9 people have said the blade is dull or rusted and chewed up where are y’all getting these from I bought it straight from a okc dealer and mine is perfect.

The grooves on the combat knives are intended to cause a pneumotorax, in simple words, to make a cannelure to get in external air in to the chest (or tórax), and colapse the lung, to inhabilitate the oponent ! In the M9 the serrations are intended to cut metal ! The last thing anybody want in a fight is to loose your knife or bayonet or your rifle with a bayonet because it get stick/attach in your ennemys body, thing that could happen with the saw in the S&W !

Okc is an actual issue for gi's and are good quality

IKEA is swedish just saying!! The can opener..lol

Bayonets are typically not supposed to be sharp, because it makes them harder to retrieve as they can cut into the bone so when you twist you’ll either snap your edge or twist the body too. Bayonets are a stabbing weapon primarily now it not being razor sharp is excusable but it being so blunt you can saw on your hand is ridiculous.

Did he just say IKEA is an Italian company

well i did like these baonets for several reasons until you said they were both not full tang,i think the price is way too high for a knife thats got the issues you pointed out.Perhaps cold steel will make one that is full tang and without the issues.

Took me around four hours to re profile my blade with my Ruixin sharpener with diamond stones. Shave sharp.

I own many S&W knives. They are OK, some better than others. I own a couple Ontario military knives. Apples and oranges. The Ontario knives are top notch. You really do get what you pay for. I wouldn't get the S&W bayonet. Pony up and get the Ontario M9. Yes, it's more expensive but worth every penny.

Ikea is a Swedish company, not Italian.

Didn't know ikea was Italian? I couldn't imagine breaking a bandit blade on a tin can, no matter what kind of steel, my hound dogs demolish tin cans in seconds.

You can still cut threw branches and wood with the bayonet it won’t break at least with the Ontario I do it all day I use the saw back as well maybe not with the smith and Wesson would probably get destroyed