@@IMRROcom sorry to hear that... i'm 51, i swear when i hit 40 stuff started goin' downhill FAST... aches and pains i NEVER had before... extra strength tylenol is now my best friend lol
Thank you! I know it is a older video! However this is something I have read about and tried many many times and never worked! however I never actually seen it done. I am working on starting a new layout and going to try this again.
beautiful track work. so important, especially in the n scale. I use the track nails as well as glue. my track nails go back to when I was thinking about hand laying my track.
Eric, thanks for this video!! Glad I watched and did not know about the flux with Zinc in it. Very important. I have been using an RSU to solder rail joiners, feeders and rails together. Goes pretty fast!! Thanks again!! D. Muse
RSU, (Resistance solder unit for the people that do not know) You is hard core. Yes, some solder is conductive. MAKE SURE your solder and flux are rated for circuit boards and electronics. The zinc for the joiners is no big deal as it. if it was a frog or already mounted you have to be careful it might bridge.
I haven't finished watching this yet, but before I forget, is there any special reason why you shortened the small Track, in stad of Installing It as it was, and Cutting a piece off the New Flexitrack ?
I wish we could have seen and heard a little more about the equipment you used here, namely the iron you used, when I solder I have to preheat the rail with the iron and then apply the solder, your way seems easier but I wonder if it requires a different type of iron.
You make this look WAAAAY easier than it is. I notice you don’t heat the rails first, just touch the solder to it and then immediately touch the iron to it. Isn’t that considered a cold solder (bad thing)? I’m not questioning as an insult or to imply you don’t know what you’re doing. Just trying to learn, as your joins look great!
solder will not flow to cold aka a cold joint. The rail heats up almost instantly and the solder will flow to it. Solder flow to clean and heat. If it was cold it would look like a blob and not be silver but a dull gray.
Does the soldering technique work on all track mterials...brass, nickel and steel? I have all 3 types. Thanks . Very informative video. It good to see one on video.
Look good, a little soldier does the trick, to many guys use to much soldier, & as far as the nails go you can remove them after you ballet can't you, bunch of thumbs-up!
Good idea about drilling the plywood so you can remove the nails, I guess that's why I never used them but I'll try it and I'm going to try the weathering my track on this layout, thanks for the tip!
Jimmy Irwin most of it is 12”. Corner store inserts are 12” squares cut in half n a 45’. The fat ends of the 2 turn backs are 48”. Basically big raindrop shaped bench work. The new section for Hermosa is the 18”. All operation is set to happen next in the 1st 12” from the front face of the layout, few locations might be in the16” range and 1 at 18”
So fitting, i am close to this stage on my tracks, so a few questions, do you use solid wire, or strand? What is the watts of your soldering iron? Looks great, keep up the good work!!!!
IMRROcom , I’m not so sure it needs to be shorter. Beginners and more experienced like me, need measured steady flow. I like that you don’t rush around. Very professional.
Your 1 rail doesn't match up with other. It really stuck out after abrasive bar. It'll click everytime it passes there. I use alot of soldier. I like the 2% silver. Use it between my trains in winter and rc's in spring also use dielectric grease. It works well if you have a layout the loses power due to rail joints. Take a very small paint brush dab in dielectric grease and run along joints. Getting it inside. This will automatically complete connection. Unless the problem is to far away for power source and no feeders installed.
Just started n scale getting use to it. Was stating what it looked like in video. Wasn't downing anything don't take it that way. Just a heads up. Pointing it out.
Hi Eric, I'm curious to know if you stagger your joints on curves. I stagger the joints on my curves and I find that the flex track ties give the curves a bit more stability.
Wow... That ad is LOUD. Tell your sponsor we are LESS likely to buy products if we have our ears blown out. I have never scrambled to find the TV remote so fast...
Hi sparky 107107 sent me over to you as I had my first go at soldering with bad results you make it look so easy but what I want to ask is what track pins do you use and what size drill for the holes please will take a look at your other videos too.
Flex Track - Solder - Flex Track - Rail Joiner - Flex Track - Solder - Flex Track. I do believe I cover those expansion gaps for N and HO scale in another video.
What is with all the brushing with the tooth brush??? I just rub the joint with a rag to get the flux of and I never have any problems with electrical or painting. Just wondering...
Habits from working in a professional solder shop, remove all Flux it is corrosive in some way. Always clean when done. Did not want to be called out for being a hack for not properly cleaning when done.
I normally put the sliding rail on the inside of the radius. This way you do not need to trim ties. if it is on the outside you end up needing to trim ties. Not sure if this is correct or not, but this is what I do.
Hey Eric Great Video I'm thinking about integrating some code 80 Atlas or Peko with my KATO mainly long straights in my Yard I was wondering can you use Micro Engineering's Rail Joiners to join the code 80 Rail I'd heard that Micro Engineering has some really Good Quality and Tight Gripping Rail Joiners but when I looked for Info on the M.E. Joiners the Size of the Rail is slightly different of the Atlas & Peko With your experience in using Atlas Code 80 would the Micro Engineering Rail Joiners Work properly.. Thanks And Happy Holidays To and your Family..🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃
how do you do it so effortlessly? I am soldering my track for my layout and I have oxidation all over and IM burning the sleepers. My solder doesnt grip like yours and doesnt stay pure like that. What am I doing wrong?
Track is a poor conductor. Copper wire is much better so you keep your power on the copper wire and reduce the length of track between feeds. Less voltage drops
Flux is good. Just understand that some flux is conductive and not a good choice for things like circuit boards, rail frogs and cross over etc. you do not want to bridge the pos and neg side of the rails. but as you can see this case was not a problem.
What's with the Midwest ad blasting and all the discounts, etc. on the screen. Then when I thought it was done, here comes Midwest blasing its Klaxon horn loudly. This crap takes away from your video.
@@IMRROcom Same here, your hands covered the area that you were working on. If the camera was across from the working area, and more light, we would be able to see it very clearly.
""Solder" is a modern spelling of the Middle English "souder", which derives from the Old French "soudeur", which itself comes from the Latin "solidare". In the 15th century there was a movement to re-latinize the spelling of words, and the "l" got added back in to the spelling, although the pronunciation didn't change to include the "l" until sometime later." "This is very similar to what happened with "salmon" except that nobody pronounces the L in that one."
