Tom good video, Im a retired welder/pipefitter recently and I had a young apprentice working with me soldering a 2" copper main water line. bad spot. got solder in cornea of his eye. So may I suggest You and me wear glasses my apprentice Didnt. I was at fault for not having him wear them. So even though this is a fun hobby , but soldering under a table? Or anytime Maybe drop a hint to younger folks in your Video to always wear safety glasses. Just a thought Ben A.
Tom, thanks for the video. I have been using "suit case connectors, but I did start out just striping the middle of the bus wire and soldering the feeders to it. That got to be a long process, using the suitcase connectors help things go faster and if I made a mistake I did not have to go in and un-solder the wires. Your method does allow for more surface contact between the to wires. (Pros and Cons to both methods) I like that you took the time to explain and that helps everyone that watches. As always, thank you for taking the time to demo and share this video. D. Muse
Thank you David. Soldering does take time and is kind of difficult in some places while under the layout. I use the connectors I showed where I have a lot of turnouts, I still solder to the track but underneath, would take forever to solder all the connections.
Great video Tom! I'm sure your soldering how-to tips will prove useful to many for DCC wiring. But I've decided to take a different, easier route to wire my N scake Kato Unitrack for DCC. That's right, can you believe it? I finally found courage to break out my MRC Prodigy Express2 DCC system from its box. I also just bought MRC's Prodigy WiFi module to connect to my Prodigy Express2 so I can run trains with ease right from my smartphone. I like the user-friendly interface that my smartphone will be able to use to run trains. Anyway, as far as wiring Prodigy into my tracks, I plan to use Kato's terminal joiners as DCC feeder wires. These stranded Kato terminal joiner wires are already the perfect size (22 or 24 AWG) to use as feeder wires. I'll just snip off Kato's male connector plugs from the other ends of the terminal joiner wires and strip those ends. Then I'll use NCE's DCC layout wiring kit. It includes 14 AWG stranded bus wire (25 feet each red & black coated), 22 AWG stranded feeder wire (which I'll save in my toolbox for future projects since I'll be using Kato wires), 20 bus wire suitcase taps, and 20 quick connectors that directly plug-in feeder wires to bus wire suitcase taps. The beauty of this kit combined with Kato's terminal joiners is that it easily and quickly makes solid, secure wiring connections without the need to solder. I can't wait to get home from the road in about a week and hook up my DCC system. Thanks, Tom, for all your encouragement--even if I do disagree with you from time to time. Overall, you have some pretty good ideas. -from Tom Pilling
Thanks for watching Tom. Great to hear your going to unbox everything and get started with your creation. Great idea on the way your going to hook everything up. Keep me posted on your progress when you get back home. I was planning on doing a video on our conversation about the easy GUI and conventional DCC methods with a survey at the end of the video of the two methods, if your don't mind.
Glad you found it Stan. I have another one on soldering a DPDT switch. You can find it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wak7BnF3Cgo.html
Good video Tom. One suggestion though: I've found that if you will clean the threads on the heating element for the tip of the Ungar iron you will get better heat transfer from the heating element to the tip. This should be done once each month or more frequently depending on the amount of soldering that is done. Bill G Linwood, Kansas
Thanks for the tips Bill. Shortly after doing this video I purchased a digital soldering station, will never go back to the old style of soldering. Much easier going digital. I actually just received a compact digital soldering station that fits in the palm of my hand. Amazing what technology is out there now.
Toms Trains and Things thank you you so much for making such quality videos, they have been a great help to me on getting ideas for my future layout. I'm 16 years old so things are moving a little slow in the way of buying materials, but you have given me so many ideas, and taught me so much. I am very thankful for you and your channel Tom!
Check out WAGO lever wire connectors - no soldering of any wires except for feeder to rail connection. These connectors have the following good points: 1. Connects 22 through 12 awg wires to each other 2. Connects both solid and stranded wire 3. Only need to strip wires to proper length. 4. Wires can be easily separated and joined numerous times. 5. Minimizes the need for terminal strips. 6. Connections are always reliable because the wires are always under compression contact. I use the "gray" ones because they handle a wider range of wire gauges.
Thank you for the information Helmut. Soldering is better than any connector made. I have another video I did about two weeks ago where I discuss using connectors. I show a similar connector as you referenced but a different brand. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZmOF5HHYev4.html
Thanks Tom. I am not too big of a fan of the suitcase connectors and prefer to solder too. How come the smoke from the iron doesn't go straight up your nose like mine always does? lol.
Most of the time I get the smoke up my nose. In this video I moved back a little.I also had the ceiling fan on to move it away from me. Suitcase connectors are a pain to use. Like the ad I saw for the little circuit board with the terminals; Suitcases are fro traveling. lol
Been waiting 25 years to start a layout. After watching this I feel like I need to be retired before I start a project like this. I would never get it done.
Model railroads are never finished, there's always room for improvement. I'm retired, and there's others that arestill workeg that get more accomplished than I do. Get started and do it in your spare time.
Hi, Tom. Thanks for the video.... I have a question. I've got a HO scale DC train setup (from Dad's childhood). I'm going to do a simple single oval for now, 1 train. The size of the oval is going to be in a 13'x16' room. I've got flex track for the turns and was curious, do I need to install feeder wires? Should I solder every track connection? Any information you could pass along to me would be greatly appreciated. Everywhere I've looked, it seems that everything is at a level far above my experience and intentions... Thank you for your time. Kind regards...
I always solder the connections when using flex track on the curves. Not so critical on the straight aways, but it wouldn't hurt. Check out some of my play lists on soldering and electrical projects for more information.
can you do a layout tour, and run a train? layout looks nice behind you. but we all have to play with our choo choo's at some point.. thanks for the how you do it Tom,
In DC there is no voltage on the bus wires or track until the throttle is advanced, then it depends on the maximum voltage of the Power Pack and speed.. In DCC there is a square wave signal on the track. The only place voltage is adjusted is what's being provided to the command station. If you apply voltage to one wire and then have a smaller wire soldered to it, the voltage does not change between the wires.
Hi Tom, Nice video, but just 1 comment. Why are you using a paper towel to clean your soldering tip ? The sponge is provided for that purpose. I've soldered for many years and I only use the sponge for cleaning the tip. I like that tweezers device for holding the wires which gave me an alternative "homemade" idea. I'll just secure a wooden clothespin to a small block of wood (as the base) which will provide the same functionality :)
I used them back in the 70's when in the Air Force. They take up too much room in the tool box or bag that you carry to a job so I stuck with the smaller ones.
Afternoon Tom, getting started with a large layout using DCC (Digitrax). Immediately had issues and various messages on my throttle. Using 14/2 as my bus wires, but have two sets connected together with terminal strips running the length of this half of my basement layout. Wondering if that might be part of my starting issues.
Toms Trains and Things Sel fn Sel, (SP) was in bold above that. Also had Ads ??? It is possible that I crossed the wires as I just had one set of feeders connected to that section of track. Just recently I built a drawer under my wall mounted benchwork and moved the controller there. It (Single feed) now sits some distance away from the controller. I made sure that the bus line doesn’t close on itself, but it could also be the multiple uninsulated atlas/peco switches that I will have to resolve.
@@richardclark1801 that's the normal display. It's prompting you to enter an address for the locomotive. You can enter an address for two locomotives, one for each location on your throttle.
Never saw anyone use that method. I use white glue myself. If I have to remove it for any reason, all it takes is a little spray of water to loosen it up.
My club is currently trying to install three types of signals , 1. 2 semaphores , 1 single target aspect , and numerous red/green dwarf signals everything is led except the semaphores the issue is we have a mixture of snap switches and tortise switches , could you show the best way to soder these for best operation.
Hi Buford, thanks for your question. I have another video on soldering that may help you, all soldering to any surface basically uses the same technique. This video may show you some better views on how to solder: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wak7BnF3Cgo.html
Thanks. Not sure if you can find it in one book, it may be spread out in a series of books from Kalmbach Publishing. I have a series of videos you can watch, "Model Railroading for Beginners." ru-vid.com/group/PLjjhnrIKSTShrzvkLrtppcNJ0zObTcDyv
I like that tweezers device for holding the wires which gave me an alternative "homemade" idea. I'll just secure a wooden clothespin to a small block of wood (as the base) which will provide the same functionality :)
I like that tweezers device for holding the wires which gave me an alternative "homemade" idea. I'll just secure a wooden clothespin to a small block of wood (as the base) which will provide the same functionality :)
That's a good question. Digitrax recommends 6 to 10 Ft, mainly because of rail joiners not always conducting the signal through the tracks. Even when I solder the rail joiners I put a feeder in every piece of flex track (overkill). You will need one at every leg of a turnout also. Rail joiners and Turnout points will always get dirty, so go on the safe side.
I wish someone would do the calipers with the scale conversions already programmed to display on the LCD. Does anyone make that yet? Don't nobody steal my idea!
Hi Jack, I got them at a train show from a vendor who sells small tools like that. I thank you can also find them through Micro Mark or any other vendor that sells soldering tools.
I like that tweezers device for holding the wires which gave me an alternative "homemade" idea. I'll just secure a wooden clothespin to a small block of wood (as the base) which will provide the same functionality :)
Thanks Carl, it's not always easy to get everything in the shot while shooting. I've missed shots when I had 3 cameras at different angles on some videos.
Definitely understand that. Could you do an overhead shot? That should be a pretty good angle. Nice tip about how to keep the flux container threads clean..
I have some other videos on soldering with better angles, not for feeder wires, but same principle: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wak7BnF3Cgo.html
Not a very good video for someone who has never used solder. It would have been helpful if you had zoomed in during the process and kept your hands out of the shots
+mike dziomba thanks for your input. It's not always easy to get the best angle on a shot on this kind of video. I have a few more videos on soldering where the angles are better.
You need to thick and plan your video better... The video was meant to be Easy Soldering Methods and you go and put your arm and hand between the track and the camera showing us the people watching nothing
I don't want to be a negative Ned but it seemed to drag on , the camera angle always had your hands in the way. Myself as an electrician I am Leary of the quick connector for my buss as the mechanics of the connection, very little surface contact and they can be twisted loose, not great for low voltage and data. Your soldering is the way it should be done
Thanks for your input Marcel. I know what you mean about the dragging on, you should see what I cut out. I'll shorten it up a bit. I was using a second camera on my close shots like that but I bumped it with the section of track and knocked it out of frame. It's real difficult to get good camera angles on close work. My next video has better angles when I'm making DCC cables. Soldering is best, but there are modelers who don't solder and rely on connectors and manufactured feeders soldered to rail joiners for all their joints. Since my videos are directed more toward beginners, I try to cover as many methods as possible. I've come to realize that there are a lot of modelers that don't have the skills to perform most of the tasks required to build a model railroad. That's why I do these videos. Thanks again for your input.
That's a shame your worried about how words are pronounced with a different accent or dialect than yours. Some people can't help the way they pronounce words based on where they live. You'll have a ball with younz...
In the U.S. it's actually pronounced soder the l is silent. Like Aluminum, and bonnet, and wind screen etc. everywhere has their own words and pronunciations for things. we have a lot of words that no one else would even recognize as do you. Hope that clears up the whole ( we call things what we want and you can too) thing. Have a nice day.
william Greene The current trend to abandon even the most basic grammar and spelling also came from the USA. Saying ‘sodder’ instead of ‘solder’ isn’t as bad though as using ‘then’ when it should be ‘than’ or ‘to’ instead of ‘too’. The most irritating one is writing “I could of” instead of “I could have”. It irritates me because I spent my school days concentrating on survival more than learning and as a consequence, have no certificates for English. If I can make an effort, so can people who have good careers because they did have the chance to concentrate on learning. There is also spell checks which I make use of.
