Thank you for taking the time in detail in showing us what is going on inside the HPOP pump. Hopefully I never have to worry about tearing mine apart but your video will make it easier if I dare to. Thank you again! Best 7.3 GUY EVER!
Hey thank you for taking it apart and showing the process, I am taking mine apart right now I don't see a rebuild kit anywhere with pistons and all that jazz, however I'm going to clean it up because there's metal shards in it see if I can't get it working again with all the macgyvering I'm going to do.
Thanks for the nice video Clint, I've always wondered what's inside one of those. Look fwd to the Adrenaline Comparison video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith None
Loving your videos. I am trying to decide on buying a newer, more reliable truck, or investing more into my 7.3. Bought a camp trailer this year and am concerned about pulling it with my family. Never had any issues, ever, but my luck it would totally breaker down. Been watching your videos to make this beauty more reliable and trustworthy. Keep em coming. Any and all advice is appreciated
Invest in your 7.3l! I've owned mine 9yrs, and yes, I've taken out loans for repairs. Injectors and trans were big ones for me. Still cheaper than buying a whole new to me truck I know nothing about. I adore my 23yr old 7.3l and will continue to dump money, blood, sweat, and tears into it. No def bs and easy enough to repair that I've done quite a lot on my own thanks to Clint and a few other RU-vid channels. I even bought all the shop manuals from Helms Inc. So I had to rely less on Google when I had questions about torque for a nut or what color wire was what.
I was just thinking about getting an adrenaline pump. Im only running 160 cc ADs with intake and upgraded exhaust. I haven't put a oil rail cross line on. Ive heard the crossover line helps with pressure, idle and noise.
So it seems you don’t have to have an external leak to have a worn out pump which makes sense. My side after new icp, injectors and harness is an intermittent check engine light on heavy acceleration or pulling hills. Back out of the throttle it shuts off. Doesn’t seem to throw any codes. Maybe it’s the pump? It does have around 220k miles now.
intermittent check engine light on heavy acceleration or pulling hills THATS THE HPOP THats exactly what happens before burn up ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1J0yvaSxgs0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SXYNw-nAgDw.html If you can swing it go with these
I just took apart 3 hpops i have sitting here... neither rear cap came off easy... all used one 17 and 2 15 degrees. I needed to know which pump was which so i took it off to inspect... just saying, this video mentions its easy to pop them off but because of the fire not... neither of mine were on a fire.
Hi Clint “ rookie mistake “ here again with a huge question I know you are super busy but I’m about to change out my low oil pressure pump in my 7.3 about 235.000 miles so I switch over to the Schaffer oil and it’s been two oil changes and then got some starting issues big time so I figured it had to be the low pressure oil pump I just wanted to ask if you think it might have anything to do with the use of the new oil or with the truck of course being older that it’s just that time for the low oil pump I appreciate all you have done for all of us watching you and the channel so any answers would be helpful thanks again hope to see you on soon
Oil won't cause that issue try a high flow oil filter first like the NAPA ex I mention in that oil video could be a bad filter Starting issues batterys, starter, irp, hpop, leaking injector seal are the basics to diagnosis first
Hi Clint, love the videos!! I suspect my 97’ 7.3 has the timing cover leak you talked about in the video. (Since it is in the front and I can’t find it after resealing the HPOP) You mentioned that it is not terribly hard to replace the timing cover seal. I assume I would have to pull the motor to do it properly? Thanks again!!
Pulling the engine gives you options like new pan gasket or sealing exhaust manifold n up pipes can be replaced or new bolts and gaskets ect But if thats all good I just remove the engine bolts from the frame and jack the engine up till the turbo touches the top of course taking off exhaust pipe clamp ect after jacking up I place wood under the engine mounts and I only remove the radiator There are 2 # 10 bolts that hold the oil pick up on and you get enough room with a ratchet wrench to easily get at on the bottom of the timing cover
In replacing my o-ring on the back plate, I noticed the cap did not fly off? I’m having a surging in idle, and while driving. I’ve replaced the IPR, ICP, New Valve Cover Gaskets & Wiring harness, also replaced the main wiring harness. So far nothing has corrected the surge. Jumps up about 1,000 rpm’s and check engine light comes on and off. Not sure what it could be other than a bad High Pressure Oil Pump. I’m getting an exhaust smell, and was wondering if the catalytic converter could be clogged?
@@josephbrown7688 thanks for your question Joseph. Yes, bit the bullet and bought the ICP from my trusted dealership. I’ve changed so many parts now and still have the same issue. Now have gone to the new high voltage IDM, every sensor has been changed out and increased fuel pressure to 67-68psi with no drop during acceleration. Truck only surges until oil temps get to 160. After that I am golden and truck is amazing.
Great video, I had been hoping you would do a teardown of the HPOP. I am getting ready to remove my pump, it's leaking, not exactly sure where. I cleaned the valley and the pump as best I could, to watch for the leak location or direction. It seems to be from under the passenger side (?) of the pump. But I am not positive. I have all the seals and fittings ready to replace. My question is, when I pull the pump what signs should I be looking for underneath to determine where it's leaking? Any suggestions? I really enjoy your videos, always to the point, and a big plus is that, I can hear you and clearly see what you are discussing. You have spoiled me, if I look at another RU-vid channel, and if it's a driveway shot with a phone, I'm gone.
While you have hpop out might as well swap all the seals...mine only leaks when it gets up to temp or towing... I'll be performing seal swap myself soon..
Hi Clint , I just rebuilt a 7.3 psd and I have under 10 psi of oil pressure on the low side. My machinist said I probably forgot to put a oil galley plug back in and is stating that some are press in plugs. All I remember was the threaded plugs. Anyways my question is where are these press in plugs if any, or is it something else?
The only freeze style plugs are external you would see a leak , Over the years I've seen the oil pick up tube not have the seal to the timing cover, Lpop gear in backwards or excessive clearance, cracked timing cover , oil by pass by the filter missing , clearance out to far in the crank bearings or they where not clearance d at all and got shredded on start up, cam bearings in backwards, oil diverters not sealing which you would think would have any thing to do with pressure but it did, huge air pocket in the head, oil aeration from the HPOP you would see air bubbles on the dip stick So here are some idea's
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD when I changed the lpop I didn't see any markings indicating the direction. Also I just used gear oil to lube the pump. How do I know if I got the pump backwards... It's a melling m208
Hi there! Having trouble with code po1211- low icp pressure New motorcraft cam sensor New motorcraft icp sensor New motorcraft ipr Fresh oil Good fuel pressure under load-60 psi Fresh adrenaline hpop Reservoir level is good Running out of options here- is there a way to test the hpop system with air? Mainly the heads Thanks!
that code is thrown when the ICP signal detects the high pressure oil pressure above or below expected value. it could be due to a lot of things....low could be a leak in the system at some point......which would usually result in a hard or no start hot.......high/low could be a stuck IPR valve (even if new it happens remove it disassemble clean it flush it put back together try that and make sure the coil is working properly) ...thats the valve that controlls the pressure. it would be virtually impossible to diagnose this concern without the factory test equipment or equivilant, high dollar equipment / to test hpop at the head get a water filled hydraulic gauge install at the oil ports of head run test both sides idle and at load/ a air test can be done the same way by fashioning a air connection at the oil port of the head testing both sides and inject 150 psi engine off listen to see if injector leak or pump seal / also don't rule out a bad connector or wire thats cracked internally making a netiquette connection a wire jiggle test or jiggle the plug can usually rule that out most of the time it will cut right out when you jiggle Try these
Starts and runs well. That code appears under load. Not at idle. No hot start issues. Ipr duty cycle never exceeded 65% under load. While idling it’s at 4-5% with about 850psi Will try to disassemble/clean/test the ipr and check the connector. Thanks again! Amazing content and channel!
Injected 150 psi through the test port- can definitely hear some gurgling but can’t quite hear where it’s coming from. Does the ipr need to be blocked off for this test? Because wouldn’t the ipr technically bleed off air?
Is it a sign of a worn pump when after sitting overnight I have an extended crank before it fires off? Throughout the day it starts right up. Just after sitting I have to crank for maybe 10-15 seconds. Almost like it leaks out and needs to refill like the leak you show on that pump.
I'm sure Clint will chime in and give you better Intel ...but What yr is yours... Any codes. Ipr ICP Cam sensors are common culprit of long crank. Other than glow plug/& controller... .The low pressure pump could be worn and leaking back through the 'vain' or check ball sticking in hpop could also contribute to leak down check the reservoir oil level through the top Allen screw ... If obs it could be fuel draining back into the tank /well guess psd with electric pickup pump could also bad fuel line or fittings introducing air in the system. if psd 99+ try cycling the fuel pump 5-10 times next cold start
@@josephbrown7688 I replaced my HPOP with a CNC stage 2 and a few months outside of the warranty period it went out, producing 0psi and has solver metal shards coming out of the front oil seal. Fun times.
We meaning several creators just had discussion with Google about there new audio upgrade they did to catch more copy right infringements in that transition it cause my and others back ground sound or noise to jump a positive 6 db We have been told they are fixing this so hopefully future views don't get blasted out
The Adrenaline pump is a joke !!!!! When I freshened up my 7.3 I decided to upgrade to the Adrenaline pump. Empty the truck ran great, but when I put my 36 ft 5th wheel behind it, it seemed to lack power on the hills ( other trucks out pulling me ) I’m thinking ok it’s a 7.3 only half the horsepower of these new trucks. Then mind you the pump is only 7 months old, I’m 1,200 miles from home and she don’t want to start or stay running. Nobody in Jackson Wyoming had time to look at it or even diagnose it for 6-8 weeks. My ford diesel mechanic thought HPOP but without a computer it’s guess work. I limped her home and every hill she was like the little choo choo. Survey said HPOP. ICP saying 1,300 PSI and IPR saying 64%. While driving pulling the trailer. Sent the pump back and they said it was non repairable. ( a high pressure relief valve blown ) Dumping the oil back into the motor. It was this way from the get go. I wound up putting in a OEM reman and she is back to her old self. Took Diesel site three weeks to diagnose it and then forgetting to mail it after warranty was approved, about 4 weeks total. Forget the hype !! Adrenaline not worth it for the extra volume that only someone with oversized injectors would need. Brand new one in the box sitting on my workbench collecting dust !! Also another oil leak in the back of the pump can also be the block off plug o ring. Nice to see what the inside looks like.
Yeah bit pricey but mainly paying for the 3 year warranty.. and not sure if they are transferable.... I'm debating on buying larger injectors but figured if I used hi flow hpop would help to disperse heat when pulling have 97 plan on plumbing intercooler soon. Figured I'd ask since you using one for paperweight..alot of forums have stated same as you. evidently there was a lack of inspection and bad quality went out the doors for a period of time
Hello i need desperate help 2000 f350 srw 7.3l goes full throttle upon startup its sat from 2015-2023 new fuel system,new engine harness,all new sensors new pedal and still is doing it new idm and pcm and is still doing it drove it the block once and had a idle of 1k after that back to full throttle starts
This is a rare issue and I have always found either a almost broken wire, short to ground, rub through to another wire, bad connector or green decay in connector LOCATED from the pedal connector or wire to the firewall connectors or firewall connector to pcm even a bad pcm connector Since you don't have a PICO you will need to deloom the wires and check those and all connectors and pins even the pin to wire connections, use a test bulb 12v on each wire if good light glow jiggle the wire and connector for fluctuation in the light There is some issue with the IVS or peddle feed and not to dismiss a faulty new peddle but that usually just causes idle no rev
Just a thought remove the passenger side turbo tube completely Then try starting see in if runs normal The 6.0 had this issue otherwise there is a wire issue @@d.i.yadventurestv533
