00-04 Nissan Xterra: Evaporative Emissions Leaks P0456 / P1456 (VG33E) 

Silicone and JB weld can fix all sorts of leaks! Good work my dude! I would have done the same thing for an almost 20 year old vehicle.

What a coincidence I'm always working on mine too...lol. The life style associated with 20 year old cars! Thanks for watching!

Happy to help and thanks for the comment!

Happy to help my dude and thanks for watching!

Happy to help!

Thanks for sharing and helping out the Xterra community!

I always battle with using gloves to keep my hands clean and scrape free, or having the manual dexterity and tactile feedback to actually do the job!

Well...that sucks man. Problem is that a ton of stuff can cause a rough idle ... The distributor is known to have the lower bearing fail...it can be loose and causes the shaft to wobble. Even if it visually looks good as far as rotor position, it can cause bad timing when it spins. Fuel filter, fuel injectors could be dirty, fuel injectors could have leaking o rings. Spark plugs could be bad...wires could have an intermittent break. Best thing is probably a shotgun approach tune up. Do all the basics of plugs, wires, fuel injector o rings and clean the injectors, fuel filter, air filter, etc.

@@XterraRob That's basically were I am at now, only thing I haven't check is the distributor bearing, it looked clean, if it don't start next thing I'm trying

No codes?

Crankshaft position sensor. Just pull distributer cap to check distributer. Look for metal filings under cap and in well of distributer. Rotor wobbles when bearing is bad so strikes rotor contacts

I think it is just replaceable. Unless it is a leaking rubber hose....or the fuel tank itself is leaking. Honestly, look around for anything obvious. If you dont see something easy, Id pay a shop to smoke it and identify where fumes are leaking from. Then you have a confirmed target to replace instead of guessing.

Check the fuel pump access panel. That gasket can leak when I overfill your tank. It is under rear seat passenger side.

The sensors just detect leaks in the lines...they don't care if it's rubber hoses or hard lines. Just make sure the hoses are routed cleanly and not bent too sharply to kink.

I'm not currently doing mechanic work for hire. You are right that a super charge conversion is the easiest way to go about it. The best thing is to buy another old Xterra that is super charged and use that as a donor vehicle. Check out "R P" on RU-vid, he has a 3 part series on how to do the conversion.

@@XterraRob I’m more looking to get the parts, I’ve seen a few videos on how to do the conversation but can’t buy any of the parts, from my understanding I need to buy a different upper intake plenum, the supercharger and the intake pipe, I can’t get access to any sites that will post anything to Australia

You should watch those videos by R P ... There are a few more items. Pulley brackets, ECU, throttle cables, fuel injectors, etc. I would seriously look at buying an old super charged xterra or frontier and use it as a donor vehicle. Importing the entire $1000 vehicle may be easier than hunting down all the parts...and sell the remainder for scrap. International shipping is something I am not well versed in though, so I cant help much there.

@@XterraRob thanks will do some research

Okay after parking (somehow) and turning the car off, I turned it back on, reversed about 15 feet and now its out of 4wd. That being said I just want to make sure everything is normal lol

The auto locker hubs theoretically work...if the hubs are in good shape and don't get sticky and stay engaged. The OEM hubs commonly get stuck on like you experienced. An open diff may hide this behavior though where a lokked diff will make it obvious. The lokka doesn't cause the problem...it just makes it easier to see an existing problem if that makes sense. Warn or mile marker hubs are more reliable to stay disengaged.

@@XterraRob alrighty, makes sense. I will look into manual hubs in the future perhaps. For now I will test how this lokka operates on trail. Additionally, its recommended to not use this on concrete right? Snow and gravel is a bit better from what I hear, as the clicking and ratcheting is potentially stronger on concrete.

Correct...you should really only be using 4wd on loose or slick surfaces anyway. The tires meed to be able to slip on the ground surface to relieve any binding when turning.

@@XterraRob okay perfect, what a weight off the shoulders getting that thing all bolted up and crossed off the list. It was raining and had an inch of water on the garage floor but managed to solo install the diff the non weld cutting way lol, now that I'm locked and lifted on 33s Ill hop on youtube with some xterra off road / camping vlogs for sure! thanks for all your help.

Best thing to do is do a google search for "Nissan factory service manual" look for a website called niccolclub that has .pdf downloads of the service manual. It will have detailed diagnostics.