Hi Matthew - thanks for your excellent channel. I am a volunteer at my local repair cafe. We try to repair items for residents free of charge to save the items ending up in landfill. I have some clock experience and am currently dealing with a non working 2 weight Vienna Regulator. I have disassembled it, cleaned the parts in an Ultrasonic bath, reassembled and oiled it but the issue I have is the unreliability of the gut line. This springs off the drums and sometimes wraps around the drum spindle when there is no weight or pressure on the line. That makes installing the clock into the casing difficult and is a problem that will reappear when the weights are taken off to move the clock. I have tried twisting and taping the lines together when installing or when taking the weights off but it is difficult to keep the lines in the right place when they are so 'springy'. I have seen advice that suggests leaving the line unwound or half winding it around the drum and taping it in position or replacing the gut with a corded line which does not 'spring when the weights are removed. I favour replacing the gut with a cord but the only cord I have found so far is 0.8mm and the existing gut width and barrel spacing seems to nearer .3-.4mm. Any advice would be much appreciated if it would enable me to return the clock in working order..!
Hi Roger. That sounds like great work you are doing with the repair cafe. As for the lines, you may find natural gut is a bit less stringy than monofilament fishing line if that is what you are using presently. I use gut from Bow Brand. A braided line in Polyester or Dyneema can also work. As for getting the clock to the clients house without the lines becoming tangled, I would always let the lines right out. Not a fan of masking tape, pieces of cork etc. Yes, let both lines right out and either tie the line with cotton tape or place in a bag etc. that way you have every oportunity to wind them on the barrel nice and neatly. With Longcase clocks, once the lines are out, wrap them round the seaboard in a figure of 8. Just a word of warning... some weight driven German wall clocks have the barrel end of the line fitting in a keyhole. If this is the case, make double sure the line is fitted securely when the barrel is first wound. Same for the other end. Hope this helps. Yours, Matthew
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks thanks Matthew for your help and encouragement. Is your book available? It does not seem to be on Amazon other than a Kindle version?
Hi Matthew great explanation and demonstration as usual, what if its a weight driven Vienna clock what is the process there and how do you get the right length of gut line if there wasn't old line to begin with, thanks again for the video.
sometimes you have to remove the barrel cap to fit the line, sometimes there is a keyhole so you can fit the line without disassembly. One the line is secured to the barrel, put 1/4 - 1/2 a turn of wind on. Fit the weight pulley onto the line and the driving weight. Place the driving weight on the bottom of the case. Hold the line with a loop in the end and hook it over/through the seaboard hook and pull the line tight. Make a loop in the open end of the line and tie in a simple knot. Job done. When the clock runs out, there will be 1/4 - 1/2 turn remaining on the barrel. Hope this helps.
Excellent, clear instructions. You mention setting the pretension on the (?) spring by tightening the set-up click screw to 1 - 1½ turns. Turns of what though? I'm new to this game, and so dismantled the clock without marking anything. Maybe you could explain a bit further or do a video showing how its done. Thanks
Te mechanizmy zegarowe (mechanizmy) powstawały do połowy XX wieku. Mechanizmy były montowane głównie w zegarach ściennych w obiektach instytucjonalnych, takich jak szkoły na dworcach kolejowych i tak dalej. Montowano je również w zegarach wspornikowych. Jeśli wpiszesz w Google „Zegar wybierania Fusee”, zobaczysz kompletne zegary. Mam nadzieję że to pomoże. Mateusz
Hi Matthew, many thanks for the video, very informative as usual. Have purchased your book which is great! Just a couple of questions if I may? When is the second book due out please? And in this fusee movement, your escapement seems to be working flawlessly, mine only wants to run for a short while and not at all when the movement is levelled up both ways! Is there an easy way to set this movement escapement up? Thanks for any help you are able to offer.
Hi Max. Firstly thanks for buying our book!~ Appreciated. The second book is approaching final draft stage. We have the main two parts done and final drafted, just have to work on appendeces, glossary and so on. Next Summer I hope! As for the escapement, it could be several things... Any chance you could get a short video of it working/not working. If you can, send me a message though my website www.clockmaker-conservator.co.uk and I'll try help. M
100% natural gut line. Metal wire rope is not suitable due to the relatively small radius as the narrow end of the fusee. Video here... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SPVnAbIUal0.html
Do you mean the piece of brass that holds the great wheel on the fusee arbor? A circle of brass with a key-hole shaped hole in it? Great wherl slip washer. M
Hi Matthew thanks for the latest video. A question I have is once the new line is fitted would you expect the escapement to start up straight away once the clock is wound ( on all fusee clocks) . I am thinking of my 3 month going skeleton clock which I am struggling to get reliably going. Unlike other fusee clocks that I have serviced (English dial and Bracket clocks) there is no keenness for the escapement to immediately spring into life. Best wishes Ian
Hi Ian. No, not necessarily. This clock is significantly over-driven. I'd prefer clocks not to start when the pendulum is off. Does your clock stop at any particular time i.e. when wound fully etc? or is it just running very close to escaping arc? In extreme cases too little drop can be an issue where supplementary arc is tiny. Know you have already spent an amount of time investigating but consider the texture of the mainspring if it is a modern replacement. Also, if the suspension spring is quite strong? taper it in width so you get a bit more supplementary arc. I'm sure we can get it sorted. Bit slow to respond at the moment but please email me if you want to pursue. M
