people, if you count from the crank link to the intake link is 31. If you count from the crank link to the exhaust link. its 36. If you count from intake to exhaust its 13.
Thank you for the input. Simple explanations are great. Also anyone doing this sort of work should have a repair manual for reference. Like i said in the video, i did not see this particular diagram on my shop manual so I decided to make this video to illustrate the process. A lot of people like visualization so showing the marks on the chain and on the sprockets helps them out as well. Thank you for the views, feel free to like, subscribe, and share.
the chain on my 2003 Nissan Sentra qg18de didn't have paint for the intake and exhaust. So for the sake of sparing people from taking the bottom timing cover off I gave a link count for the folks that have that chain. Another note, you can get a picture of the chain from eBay, Amazon or whatever and count the links that way. There's another nugget that might be helpful.
Thanks for the informative video. Just wondering once you released the timing chain tensioner did your chain move off TDC? Is TDC the same with the tensioner released and compressed please?
TDC stays the same. There should only be slack on the side of the tensioner and the sprockets shouldn’t really move when you release the tensioner. Thank you for watching.
Thanks. I recently did this, cable tied the chain first, then released the tensioner and found the crankshaft had moved a timing mark. Any thoughts please, (I did it with the engine in the car), maybe I missed something?
You will have to reprogram your electronic throttle body. The car will turn on but it won’t go past like 2500 rpm. Look up throttle body relearn procedure for your car.
7:30 So the timing alignment marks match up again? I took my head off & was going to do the timing chain to make sure they re-align, but if I keep rotating the crankshaft, the timing marks (yellow for me) 'should' match up again or at least tell me if they're out a number of links?
Hello, yes eventually your timing marks will realign after you turn your crank several times. This is due to the number of teeth on the sprockets and number of links in the chain. The marks on the cam sprockets, crank, and chain links are for initial set up with your number one piston at TDC. I forget how many rotations it takes for this engine, but eventually everything will align back up. Different types of engines have different number of teeth on the sprockets and different number of links in the chain so they may need different number of rotations before everything aligns back up. The important thing is to have the number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC), after that, set your cam sprockets and chain to the marks in initial installation. I hope this helps. Thank you for the views and comments.
so this may be a dumb question, but the bolt that is sticking out of the crankshaft, since there is no crankshaft pulley there, how are you able to turn the crankshaft?
@@dailyhondas1480 o ok. I have never pulled a crankshaft pulley off, so I didn't know what it looks like behind it. So it appears it's a 19mm and you can just attach a socket to it and crank it like that Soulja boi and ur good
Yes, it’s the plunger style. You depress it and put a pin in it to keep it in place. Once everything is set and tight you pull the pin out and it puts tension on the chain guide.
Same procedure. Install the vvt sprocket onto the cam, use compressed air to unlock it, set a a pin to hold it in place while you line up the marked timing chain links to the crank sprocket and so on. I imagine you set the engine to top dead center and all your marked links were in line with the markings on the sprockets before you began the job. Make sure everything is still where it’s supposed to be or you can bend the valves if the crank is rotated.
Thanks for sharing. Given that this is an interference engine, what kind of risk am I at with mine at 150xxx miles. I doubt that I'm capable of this & would be looking at a big expense. Best wishes!
The computer would let you know when it’s time to change out the chain. You will get a check engine light for crank and cam position sensor and possibly miss firing before there is contact of the valves and pistons. I feel like my sister in-law ran her engine for over 200,000 miles before it needed a timing chain job on her Sentra
@@dailyhondas1480 Thanks again, this is a highly regarded engine according to wiki. For years I had a (general) cold engine misfire along with the dreaded P0171. I threw a fuel pump (this model has warm long crank issues, see service bulletin), a MAF sensor and an A/F mixture sensor at it, to no avail. Finally I changed the fuel injectors after Lucas & LiquiMolly did nothing and the code disappeared -mileage went from 18.8 to 26.1. This issue has vexed many on the B15 forum.
It is similar. There should be timing marks on the sprockets so match them up with the timing chain and have your piston number 1 at top dead center. I hope this helps.
No se que es la recommendasion de Nissan pero mucha jente dise que de 80,000-120,000 millas se deve inspectar la tension de la cadena. Yo se la cambie porque estaba rolasando el motor original con uno usado. Aparte le ise el cambio del head gasket al motor antes de cambiarlo. Buena suerta gracias por el comentario.
There’s a pin in it so the sprocket doesn’t move from the advanced position when you’re trying to lineup the timing chain cams and sprockets. If I remember correctly, according to the manual, timing should be set with the sprocket on the advanced position.
@@willamdolan1345 it’s just to lock it in place while you get the chain and sprockets in place. Remove the pin after everything is on and tightened. I have watched other people and they didn’t put a pin in it, but the repair manual said to use a pun to lock it in place so I did it that way.
